Lyle's 150H in-wall build (with pics)

since you are going to trim your dank on the display side with molding you should consider cabinet doors for frontal access. this was suggested to me by a friend who built his tank in wall and cannot access it from the front. i am very glad for it now that i did.
 
Great start. Looks like you have done your research.

When I do my sump again, there is really only need for one baffle on the skimmer side. This sets the height of the water and keeps it constant for your skimmer. If you are going to use the herbie, there are ZERO bubbles that are caused by the overflow and therefore zero need for baffles. It will also give you 2-3 more inches of space in your sump. Doesn't sound like a lot, better more free space the better.......

HTH

cheers :beer:
great feedback, shaggss...i appreciate it! Do you think I should gain those extra inches in the skimmer, return, or fuge section? That's great to hear because it will be a lot easier to silicon 2 baffles in instead of 4!
 
since you are going to trim your dank on the display side with molding you should consider cabinet doors for frontal access. this was suggested to me by a friend who built his tank in wall and cannot access it from the front. i am very glad for it now that i did.
i've read several say this and thought a lot about it. i really want the clean look of just the trim without any cabinetry or wood above the trim, but i may be able to build the top pieces of trim on a hinge so I could lift open 5-6" of front access. do you think that would be enough? something better than nothing? i just want the final look to mirror the windows in our house exactly. i'm a bit anal i suppose!
 
jlylec, I'm with ya! I opted not to have the front access because the clean look was more important to me. Front access is convenient, but certainly not necessary. Besides, if you will be able to view from your fish room to see what you are doing, I wouldn't worry about it. My situation is a littel less desirable, but only because I have a top - down view of the aquarium when working on it/placing corals/aquascaping/etc.
 
Does anybody have any good online shops for the AI Sol lights and the Apex controller? Trying to figure out the best place to buy these from. Thanks!
 
great feedback, shaggss...i appreciate it! Do you think I should gain those extra inches in the skimmer, return, or fuge section? That's great to hear because it will be a lot easier to silicon 2 baffles in instead of 4!

Well there are pros and cons to each section!

Skimmer section: You may want to add extra equipment, ie reactor/heaters etc......so a bigger skimmer section is always nice.

Return section: A bigger return section means less fluctuations due to evaporation. If you have a very good ATO, then this really isn't a problem.

Fuge section: Sorry, but I have no idea about what the proper size of a fuge should be vs DT size.

If you want my opinion, I would add the extra room to the skimmer section. It will make removal of the skimmer easier for maintenance etc.....


HTH

cheers :beer:
 
that makes a lot a of sense. I will have ATO and was really looking for volume in the return section for automated water changes, but as long as i can change 10gal at a time that should be good...more room in the skimmer section makes sense to me.

do people usually put equipment in there, the return, or the fuge? I was planning on putting most in the return section but this may change that. thanks again for the input!
 
Great looking build, love the size!

About the yellow gorgonian, they are a non photosynthetic coral and require target feeding. I unfortunately found this out after mine melted away.

Here is what it looked like when I first got it. It lasted about 3 months.

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that is freakin' awesome! i wish they had told me that at the store I bought it from...I would have done anything to keep it alive and flourish...better luck next time i guess!
 
I got the sump built last night. I need to put silicon down the other side of the baffles tonight and then it should be ready. I'm taking Shaggss' advice and not using a bubble trap at first. If for whatever reason I get bubbles during testing I can take it out and put in the trap. The reasoning is pretty solid though...I should be fine and love the extra space I have in the sump now!
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I finished the sump last night and got it in place...
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I also got the water change station up...
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Now I get to start on the plumbing. This will be my first real attempt at plumbing so we'll see how it goes! Thank god for how to's on the internet!

The platform for my sump appears to be 1/16" high in the middle. The sump sits flat but when you push back on one side it kind of rotates easier on the middle which is how I noticed. Does anybody think that's a problem? I can still pull it up and file down my little leveling feet, but I'd rather not if it's not necessary. Like I said, it really seems like it's BARELY higher in the middle. The sump won't rock like a see-saw or anything.

It's looking great though...just need the tank!
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A couple questions if anybody knows...

1. I'm going to run a Mag12 for the return pump. Should I try to run this external? I could probably fit it above my sump on a little ledge I have. This would keep heat down in the water (likely minimal?), get a potential electricity in the water source out, and likely lengthen the life of the pump, but would probably be more difficult. Would this be worth doing?

2. If I run LED for lighting is there any reason why I can't cover the top of the tank with acrylic? This would lessen my evaporation and keep fish in. Plus I think I want to keep as much heat in since the lights give off no heat so I'll be depending on the heaters? Would this be more efficient? Any reasons other than heat that people DON'T cover their tanks?
 
A couple questions if anybody knows...

1. I'm going to run a Mag12 for the return pump. Should I try to run this external? I could probably fit it above my sump on a little ledge I have. This would keep heat down in the water (likely minimal?), get a potential electricity in the water source out, and likely lengthen the life of the pump, but would probably be more difficult. Would this be worth doing?

2. If I run LED for lighting is there any reason why I can't cover the top of the tank with acrylic? This would lessen my evaporation and keep fish in. Plus I think I want to keep as much heat in since the lights give off no heat so I'll be depending on the heaters? Would this be more efficient? Any reasons other than heat that people DON'T cover their tanks?

I think the main reasons people don't use a cover are it traps heat, it reduces PAR, can affect ORP, and some think it looks bad. Since your tank is in-wall you don't have to worry how it looks, you don't have to worry so much about the heat with the LEDs, and from what I have seen of the PAR readings out of those AI Sols you probably will still get plenty even with the top. You should still get plenty of oxidation in your sump.
 
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I think the main reasons people don't use a cover are it traps heat, it reduces PAR, can affect ORP, and some think it looks bad. Since your tank is in-wall you don't have to worry how it looks, you don't have to worry so much about the heat with the LEDs, and from what I have seen of the PAR readings out of those AI Sols you probably will still get plenty even with the top. You should still get plenty of oxidation in your sump.

Thanks Chris...this is exactly what I wanted to hear! I think I'm going to make the 'lid' out of just a couple sheets of acrylic so I can keep them clean for the PAR and just take them off if I have ORP issues.
 
I actually just heard back on the Richmond Reefers site from 2 people saying the cover would affect the light too much so I'll probably go coverless and just accept the evaporation. I was hoping to keep that down to maximize the consistency of the water parameters, but being that the tank is so tall at 31" I need to focus on maximizing the light. If I find that the Sols are super bright enough I may try the covers since I already have the acrylic sheets, but we'll see. Thanks again!
 
A couple questions if anybody knows...

1. I'm going to run a Mag12 for the return pump. Should I try to run this external? I could probably fit it above my sump on a little ledge I have. This would keep heat down in the water (likely minimal?), get a potential electricity in the water source out, and likely lengthen the life of the pump, but would probably be more difficult. Would this be worth doing?

2. If I run LED for lighting is there any reason why I can't cover the top of the tank with acrylic? This would lessen my evaporation and keep fish in. Plus I think I want to keep as much heat in since the lights give off no heat so I'll be depending on the heaters? Would this be more efficient? Any reasons other than heat that people DON'T cover their tanks?

I wouldnt use the mag as an external, that being said i would look into an appropriate external pump if thats the way you wanted to go. Why not just use a submersible and look into the wb's? You will love that skimmer by the way, so far looks good.
 
Well I wish I could get rid of mine, but I have a couple of known jumpers in my tank so I have to leave it. I'm sure it is affecting my PAR as I am wiping it down every few days for salt spray and dust.

In other news I have a signed contract for Lot 18! It may take a couple years still to sell my house and build, but I will be there eventually.
 
I got some eco-rocks and my pump from BRS today. These rocks are great although I think I need a couple more big ones. I'd like a minimalist aquascape for swimming room, but I also need to get vertical I think for the aesthetic aspect of the 31" tall tank so I'm looking for some sort of pillar. This first shot actually doesn't look too bad I think. I'm also going to have a couple mag-rocks on either side.

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Since I have the pump now I was able to layout most of the plumbing for the return.

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I got really lucky on the dimensions under the tank since I didn't really measure much under there! This plumbing fits perfectly with the skimmer.
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Tank is due in on March 15th!
 
AI Sol vs. ATI Powermodule

AI Sol vs. ATI Powermodule

Now I'm going back and forth on lighting again! I found that the ATI Powermodules can be completely dimmable...like the AI Sols. This is a feature that I've told myself I have to have.

The ATI costs $1270 as compared to the AI cost of $2240.

So I'm trying to justify the extra $970 for the AI, and not exactly convinced that's even the smart thing to do! Maybe the ATI would be better for the livestock...I don't know. I've read for HOURS on this and just can't decide.

4x AI Sol blue vs. 8x54W dimmable ATI Powermodule

AI advantages:
  • 7 years life without changing bulbs vs. approx. 7 bulb changes (8x~$23x7=$1,288)
  • Power consumption of 300W @ 100% vs. 432W. Of course AI would hardly ever be at 100% and average closer to half that...so this could be a huge difference if I had any idea or understanding around the cost of wattage!
  • Lunar cycling and thunderstorm features not available on ATI without other purchase (and more equipment, wires, etc.)
  • More complete control of lighting options vs. 2 cords for 8 bulbs.
  • Controller included in price vs. requirement of controller to get full bene of ATI (although I plan on having a controller anyway, so this is not a big deal.)

ATI advantages:
  • Cleaner package although this is in-wall so I don't really care.
  • Established, proven technology...LED is proven, but for less time, and with less users...so less info and options.
  • Higher PAR? depends on who you ask I guess.
  • No chance of spotlighting.
  • More color option control with different bulbs

So I feel like I'm back to square one. Ugh. Normally the cost would just sway me immediately to the ATI but I'm trying to buy once on this build and think of the future. The long term cost of the ATI is certainly higher.

And, not to sound like a tree hugger, I really do want to be as eco-friendly as possible. This hobby can be a bit wasteful what with the RO/DI systems and insane wattage we require. Every little bit counts.

Is there anything anybody out there can think of that may make this decision easier for me? In the end I really want the best looking, functioning, and providing light I can get. I'm willing to pay more now or later for this.
 

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