great feedback, shaggss...i appreciate it! Do you think I should gain those extra inches in the skimmer, return, or fuge section? That's great to hear because it will be a lot easier to silicon 2 baffles in instead of 4!Great start. Looks like you have done your research.
When I do my sump again, there is really only need for one baffle on the skimmer side. This sets the height of the water and keeps it constant for your skimmer. If you are going to use the herbie, there are ZERO bubbles that are caused by the overflow and therefore zero need for baffles. It will also give you 2-3 more inches of space in your sump. Doesn't sound like a lot, better more free space the better.......
HTH
cheers :beer:
i've read several say this and thought a lot about it. i really want the clean look of just the trim without any cabinetry or wood above the trim, but i may be able to build the top pieces of trim on a hinge so I could lift open 5-6" of front access. do you think that would be enough? something better than nothing? i just want the final look to mirror the windows in our house exactly. i'm a bit anal i suppose!since you are going to trim your dank on the display side with molding you should consider cabinet doors for frontal access. this was suggested to me by a friend who built his tank in wall and cannot access it from the front. i am very glad for it now that i did.
great feedback, shaggss...i appreciate it! Do you think I should gain those extra inches in the skimmer, return, or fuge section? That's great to hear because it will be a lot easier to silicon 2 baffles in instead of 4!
A couple questions if anybody knows...
1. I'm going to run a Mag12 for the return pump. Should I try to run this external? I could probably fit it above my sump on a little ledge I have. This would keep heat down in the water (likely minimal?), get a potential electricity in the water source out, and likely lengthen the life of the pump, but would probably be more difficult. Would this be worth doing?
2. If I run LED for lighting is there any reason why I can't cover the top of the tank with acrylic? This would lessen my evaporation and keep fish in. Plus I think I want to keep as much heat in since the lights give off no heat so I'll be depending on the heaters? Would this be more efficient? Any reasons other than heat that people DON'T cover their tanks?
I think the main reasons people don't use a cover are it traps heat, it reduces PAR, can affect ORP, and some think it looks bad. Since your tank is in-wall you don't have to worry how it looks, you don't have to worry so much about the heat with the LEDs, and from what I have seen of the PAR readings out of those AI Sols you probably will still get plenty even with the top. You should still get plenty of oxidation in your sump.
A couple questions if anybody knows...
1. I'm going to run a Mag12 for the return pump. Should I try to run this external? I could probably fit it above my sump on a little ledge I have. This would keep heat down in the water (likely minimal?), get a potential electricity in the water source out, and likely lengthen the life of the pump, but would probably be more difficult. Would this be worth doing?
2. If I run LED for lighting is there any reason why I can't cover the top of the tank with acrylic? This would lessen my evaporation and keep fish in. Plus I think I want to keep as much heat in since the lights give off no heat so I'll be depending on the heaters? Would this be more efficient? Any reasons other than heat that people DON'T cover their tanks?