Macro Seahorse Tank

[frizzo98]

I have a seahorse tank that I would like to put macro algae in but, I have not had the best of luck with macro algae in the past. What lights and other equipment do I need?

 

[Subsea]

What size tank with what lights?

As I understand it, sea horses are messy eaters. You should already have good mechanical filtration like a powerful HOB.

I suggest shallow coarse aroggonite substrate at less than 1". It will accumulate detritus and should be stirred at least bi-weekly allowing mechanical filter to remove detritus. This part of your biological filter will process ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. The macro algae will uptake nitrate and phosphate in a ratio of 30:1. Macro will absorb calcium, magnesium and iron and every heavy metal on the chemical periodic table.

I suggest a fast growing Feather Caulerpa, C Paspaloides. It has delicate fern like fronds with sturdy stems that would provide good hitching post for your ponies.

 

[frizzo98]

I don't have a light so that's something I wanted help with to. I don't want any red lights even though I heard those are good for growing plants. I would prefer a white light or a blue and white light. They are 6 gallon cylinder tank with a lite aeration and I have a small mechanical filter that's turned off because I'm afraid they might get sucked up. The species is hippocampus zosteara or dwarf sea horses.

 

[Subsea]

If you want to keep it simple, use a CFL 16W lamp from Home Depot. Purchase the clip on metal bracket and bulb for less than $20. I prefer the 6500 kelvin spectrum but anything between 5K and 10 K will work. Keep the top of the tank open to allow for evaporative cooling.
Good fortune,
Patrick

 

[frizzo98]

A little insight on how I take care of my seahorses.

For my equipment all I have a bubbler and a small hang on back filter for mechanical filtration. It is a 6 gallon cylinder.

I try to feed them 3 times a day but will do fine with 2. I try to the closest breakfast (7:30), lunch (3:30), dinner (8:30) as I can get. I feed them baby brine shrimp that I culture and enrich. I would also love to try to feed them rotifers or copapods but, I have no experience with either and brine shrimp are pretty easy. I just have to devote about 15 min every 3 days to culture them.

I was hoping to do a water change 2 a month but right now, I have been busy and only did it once last month and looking to do the same this month.

I have heard they like lights on for 12-14 hours but not quite sure.

 

[Subsea]

A little insight on how I take care of my seahorses.

For my equipment all I have a bubbler and a small hang on back filter for mechanical filtration. It is a 6 gallon cylinder.

I try to feed them 3 times a day but will do fine with 2. I try to the closest breakfast (7:30), lunch (3:30), dinner (8:30) as I can get. I feed them baby brine shrimp that I culture and enrich. I would also love to try to feed them rotifers or copapods but, I have no experience with either and brine shrimp are pretty easy. I just have to devote about 15 min every 3 days to culture them.

I was hoping to do a water change 2 a month but right now, I have been busy and only did it once last month and looking to do the same this month.

I have heard they like lights on for 12-14 hours but not quite sure.

Perhaps you should post this thread on a seahorse forum. I can give you advice on macro algae and filtration. Copepods should be able to be cultivated in a HOB refugium. You could use a second HOB with internals removed, use ceramic beads for nitrifying bacteria and as a media to cultivate amphipods. As they get sucked into pump impeller some will survive and make it into the tank, to be hunted by the ponies. The injured pods will make easy capture for the sea horses. Grow macro algae in dispay to process nitrates and phosphates. Look at available plants from Gulf Coast EcoSystem at live_plants.com. The free reference guide on his site will empower you with knowledge. It is very easy to prevent macro algae from going sexual: prune frequently and remove from tank. In this manner you will be removing nutrients which will reduce your need to water change.
Happy trails,
Patrick