Making a spraybar

nanafish

Premium Member
I am getting real close to start filling my tank to get it cycling. Its 36 L x 18 D x 21 H. It has a corner overflow. I am wanting to add a spraybar from the return. It is 3/4 inches in dia. I was thinking of adding the raybar to help with circulation. I am wondering if I should use 3/4 inch pvc or 1/2 inch? Would it be better to have the holes staggard throughout the length of the pvc or in a straight line. I was going to make a hole at the top as a siphon break. Also outside of using silicone sealant how would I attach the spraybar to be at the edge of the upper tank frame?

Would seahorses appreciate the spraybar?
 
What are you running for a pump? The gph will help determine what diameter of line to use due to the pressure. Smaller the line higher the linear flow and pressure. Also depends how much water movement your looking for
 
I have lots of options for pumps. Mag3, 5, 7 and an eheim pump that is unknown( no decal on pump anymore). I am looking to create movement-not swirling but enuf to move water. So I have a variety of pumps to choose from. So if I say I am going to use 1/2 pvc, I 'll play around with the pumps. But before I get to that, I would like some imput as to how to place the holes. And how big a bit to be used.
 
Hole size is determined by the output of the pump you use.
It doesn't take too many small holes to make for no flow coming out of some because of insufficient flow of the pump.
Sixteen 1/8" diameter holes have the same same square inch capacity as a 1/2" diameter hole, or, the same as sixty-four 1/16" diameter holes.
Using fewer holes would produce some back pressure that will give more force to the flow from each hole, but would slightly reduce the overall volume put out.
Too much restriction though can cause cavitation of the pump with resulting damage in time, depending on the pump specifications.
 
Something else you will want to consider is access to the spray bar.. the holes will clog over time and you'll need to unclog them so if you have your spray too low in the tank and in a spot where it's not easy to access it will be a pain to keep clean.

My old tank I made two bars and used unions so I could exchange them. but they really did not add as much flow as I would have liked.
 
Where did you get that conception from?
Seahorses are known to naturally come from a wide range of conditions.
IMO, in our tanks you can have hitches for them in low, medium and high flow areas so they can choose at any given time, which they prefer to be in.
Many times I watch my seahorses swim into the flow of a powerhead or return outlet, swept away in the current, and return to do it again.
You DO need to just make sure that they can't be blasted against something and be damaged.
A spraybar near the surface will help the gas exchange from the extra turbulence provided, which in turn helps maintain the pH in the tank.
You can use other means, but a spraybar does work fine when set up correctly.
Because you can connect it to the sump return line, it will provide a better turbulence than without it if you don't want to use a powerhead or open ended air line in the tank.
 
I guess that's true... the H. Erectus I had used to wrap around the return outlet and put his head in the flow for as long as he could hold on.
 
In my experience, if they are holding on to stay in a flow, be it powerhead, outlet or air bubbles, it's to "scratch the itch" as in irritation from pathogens. The pathogens which are always present, sometimes multiply to that irritant point, often, but not limited to, due to some stressor to the seahorse.
 
I was only wanting to try the spraybar for a different twist and thought that the flow is easier on the ponies. I am hoping that it will also agitate the tank tohelp eliminate dead spots.
 
Locline makes a spraybar, or sections to make your own. I've never actually used one myself but thought they looked neat. You can aim the nozzles individually. I use a mag7 pump for my return out through a section of locline with a flared end. I also have a small tunze powerhead, guarded intake, pointing from the right front to the rear left corner. It makes for nice water movement and keeps stuff in suspension to go to the overflow.
My seahorses also like to ride in the flow sometimes too. The current isn't strong enough to blast them against anything.
 
I am the resident spraybar/flow tinkerer around these parts when it comes to seahorses. :D

I think spraybars are very useful in that you can keep the food out of the rocks. This helps the food not to settle and rot, pick up pathogens which creates disease. It will also help you to feed less, and you can get a ridiculous amount of movement in a seahorse tank without bothering the seahorses at all.

This was one of my early attempts. For holes I used a nail and a hammer. Made a few hundred of them. I left a space for the pump, a Mag 9 to go under it and the spraybar was also a support for my rock to get the shape I wanted.

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That one for how ridiculous it was, worked well. Since it was totally underwater there was actually not much head loss from the pump at all and it was very strong. It ran in a 65g tank, but I still used two Seios 820's to get the flow across the front of the tank, and a return from the sump.

Next was for a smaller thank and I went simpler.

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Those bars are much smaller, painted with pvc primer to match the coraline that would grow, and the ehiem 1262 that powered them was external. So basically a closed loop spraybar. I could turn either side off or on. I designed it so I could clean it by turning one side off or on, but the flow was enough that it was unnecessary.

I ran the return through a flow accelerator, and still needed to run a koralia nano across the front. That tank was turning over at about 110x. For awhile I had two koralia nano's, but later replaced both with one Tunze, some type of nano mini thing that worked better for me.

This is the tank months later when the macro filled in. All that work painting the pipe too. Do you even see the rock?

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I have done maybe 10-15, O.K. more like 30 tries with spraybars. I think they are best when pushed through the rock, as a type of rock support, to keep detritus and food from ever getting into the rock. The most successful tanks I have had have a lot of movement (let's not get started on my sps tanks movement) and IME I really think it makes a huge huge difference.

If your going to run it on a closed loop, make sure not to hard plumb it, and leave some slack in the connecting hose so you don't get the loud noise, or a cracked bulkhead.

If you have enough holes, you really can't over do the pump unless your blowing the rock over.

If your using a feeding dish, plan for where it goes, in relation to your spraybar so your current does not blow the food out of the dish (gee, now how would I have figured that one out.... LOL)

IMO a little spraybar at the top of the water to create agitation, ugly piece of crap and is not going to do anything to help you. It needs to go behind the rocks. If your just looking to increase surface agitation you will do far better with a bubbler (air hose) or a powerhead pointed at the surface. In most of our cases now a stronger return pump would do the job as well, but some still lack sumps.

Sorry to come in late with a novel, but I already did all of the experiments. . . you would not believe it . .. . you don't need too.
 
Seems like a lot of work, for horses which like calmness anyway.

Respectfully mate, seahorses do not like calmness. Not like you think. And a spraybar can get a lot of movement where you need it to be, without slamming the horses against the side of the tank (In smaller tanks)

I have been in the ocean, saw my first seahorses, tried to crawl around the rock to look at it. Me this big old tough dude (I like to think LOL) could not fight the current where the seahorses lived.

The idea they like soft currents never made sense to me. Just observe them and you will notice.

IMO/IME which is a bit now I am under the impression that a lot of seahorse disease comes from dirty tanks. I think low flow rates that were touted in the 5-10x max range when I got into this are much to blame. You can have enough turnover to get the foods from rotting in the rocks and not blast the seahorses against the walls and in smaller tanks (150g or less) I think spraybars are the way to do it.

JMO, I have read your stuff and you are a fairly reasonable fellow. I've been looking into this for many years. Consulted and even influences many of the names we know in the hobby. And based on my experience higher flow tanks really will alleviate many of the problems we commonly see.

JMO though. As good as any one elses.
 
I know this is a old post and all, but I am setting up a 55 for SH, I am looking at making a spray bar, putting it on the back side of the tank, 2 or 3 inches off the bottom glass, most of the holes being drilled will point at the front glass with every 5rh pointing up

I will also have a return at one end of the tank with dual locking and flared ends

Running dual returns of 1 inch to sump and aux refugium below

Will this work or is it to much
 
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