Any inputs, comments ?
I use an API test kit for the nitrates.
If the nitrate level is high, I'd guess the source is either food or perhaps some artificial filtration media, like bio-balls or filter floss.
Im going to pull the ceramic balls off my sump tomorrow and see what happens.
In the mean time, I tried testing my "test kit"!! I made some fresh SW and used the test kit on the freshly made water. The test results show 0 nitrates. Does'nt that mean, the test kit is working fine? Or does it require a very mild amount of nitrate for it go bonkers?
The first thing I'd advise is to make sure that you actually do have very high nitrates in the water. I didn't read through everything, but API kits are notorious for yielding spurious high-nitrate readings, particularly if they're used on a tank that has been dosed with Prime or uses water that's been dechlorinated with Prime.
^^^ What he said.
I went through what you are. API is no good for measuring nitrate, especially when it's half gone. Get a different brand of test kit!
Yes that means exactly what you think it does. The test is functioning properly.
A dechlorinator usually gives you false low readings, not high readings with API's nitrate test kit.
The instructions for the API kit require that you vigorously shake bottle #2 prior to using. If you don't I'm not sure if your readings increase or decrease as you consume the test kit. I had consistent readings between the end of my old test kit and a brand new test kit following API's instructions.
What is the source of your water? If you are using tap water with a dechlorinator, it may give you a false zero reading on your new saltwater mix.
5 stage RO/DI. I haven't used dechlorinator in 20 years!!! I didn't think anyone did.
I would suggest mixing a cup of new SW and a cup of tank water and test this. It should be 1/2 the concentration (80 ppm). If it is, I think it confirms the high nitrates, and that issue needs to be dealt with. If not then there is a problem with the test's precision.
Im now left to wonder if the live rock is actually leaching nitrates into the water. I have done my online research and I believe Nitrate is not something that LR can leach into the water but if you read my first post, you will get an idea of what my LR were subjected to. It is the only item in the tank that has not been changed. This then HAS to be the source of nitrates because my sand bed was completely changed only three weeks ago. The water should pretty much be new because Ive done three 50% water changes and there are no ceramic/bio balls in the sump.
I agree that this seems to be highly unusual. Any chance somehow plant fertilizer got into the tank? That's the only thing I can think of that's loaded with nitrates high enough for these readings.
Is the skimmer producing skimmate? Did it produce more when you carbon dosed? From what I understand, carbon dosing is good for the 'last mile', e.g. getting nitrates down from 20 or less to even lower. If you are starting at 160 ppm, I don't think the test kit has enough resolution to tell it has gone down 10 ppm to 150 ppm.
In terms of chaeto (or other macroalgae), it only reduces nitrates through growth. If its not growing, it wont reduce nitrates. Obviously, this takes time (like it seems for everything in this hobby except for livestock mortality!).
Is all your LR pretty much the same rock type? If so, when you make your new salt water next week, consider taking a piece of LR out and setting it aside in a bucket soaking in some of your newly made salt water. Let it sit for at least a day at room temperature and then test the water for nitrates. If leaching rock is the problem, then you will see the high levels of nitrate in this bucket test. If you don't have high nitrates, you have at least eliminated the rock as the nitrate source.