markalot
...
My first and last large tank.
After almost a year of having a big upgrade approved I finally pulled the trigger on a large tank.
I had been trying to decide between a 150 and a 180. The 180 is 24 inches wide which greatly increases aquascaping options, but I've always preferred taller tanks. What finally sealed the deal was simple physics. Even with handles removed a 180 gallon tank and stand will not fit into the basement without removing the entire door. I'm not a DIY'er and the wife would have nothing to do with door removal so the choice of the 150 was set.
The tank and stand will arrive Sunday evening.
Equipment List:
I have a 180 GPD (dual membrane) Spectrapure RO/DI that is still running 0 TDS (handheld temperature correcting meter) even though the DI filter is over a year old. I've replaced the sediment and carbon block once, six months ago. On a good day I am getting maybe 120 GPD from this, so a little over a day to fill up the tank.
I have always used Kent Reef salt but will be switching to Reef Crystals for this tank because I have a full box of it.
I hate the idea of cycling a new tank, but I like the idea of doing it right and using all new rock. In the end I think I will transfer most of the 40 over, bubble algae, sand, and all. At least I don't have any (visible) aptasia thanks to the berghia I used a few months back. I love the 2 year old sand, critters, and muck that makes my 40 such a stable tank.
I am still pondering the fate of my 46. My bubble tip anemone will be coming over on his rock, as will all the fish except the Purple terror (Dottyback) who will be going back to the LFS. THe 46 has apatasia and lots and lots ... and lots of bubble algae.
Plumbing?
I had this grand plan of mostly PVC plumbing but the non DIY'er in me is throwing a fit. The value of being able to close off a return rather than just filling up the sump with excess water is lost on me. I am still pondering my anti-siphon options for the return line.
Electrical?
I have 2 circuits available and I'm considering wiring multiple GFI outlets under the stand to avoid a single point of failure if a main GFI outlet fails. In other words, non GFI into the stand, then wired similar to home electric to multiple GFI outlets for the equipment. So if the return pump shorts out, for example, it would trip the outlet the return is on but no other outlets. It would be logical to have the entire sump be on one GFI circuit so if it trips the sump goes dark, but the display pumps stay on. Heating the display during some kind of sump failure is another consideration I have to think of.
Not having any of the primary circuits on GFI into the stand introduces some risk that I have to evaluate as well. I just hate the fact that I almost lost a tank because, while on vacation, a silly small drip turned the entire tank off save for a single pump I had plugged into an extension cord to a non GFI outlet.
I'm still working on aquascaping ideas, something I'm not very good at.
The floor is not exactly level so I'll be buying some hardwood boards and shims to place under the stand.
Initial inspiration for wanting a 150 is Palting's tank: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2191618
If you see any obvious issues or just want to offer an opinion over my choices please do.
This will be my first full size tank and my first sumped system, so I will probably be making a few obvious mistakes that I can hopefully correct before filling this beast up.
After almost a year of having a big upgrade approved I finally pulled the trigger on a large tank.
I had been trying to decide between a 150 and a 180. The 180 is 24 inches wide which greatly increases aquascaping options, but I've always preferred taller tanks. What finally sealed the deal was simple physics. Even with handles removed a 180 gallon tank and stand will not fit into the basement without removing the entire door. I'm not a DIY'er and the wife would have nothing to do with door removal so the choice of the 150 was set.
The tank and stand will arrive Sunday evening.
Equipment List:
- Marineland/Perfecto 150 gallon (72x18x27) tank with dual corner Durso overflows and glass tops
- Monterey Stand (from Marineland's Q&A pages):
Outside dimensions: 74.250 19.500 34.500
It has 3 doors.
The two ends are NOT removable.
Interior dimensions: 69.750 15.750 31.000
2 rear braces
Tank Cavity: 72.750 18.750 2.000
Door opening: (1) 15.675(w) (1) 40.675(w) 25.750(h)
BREX - 2 - MP40's (one on the 40, new one purchased)
- Ecotech Battery Backup
- Trigger Systems Ruby 36S sump (36x15x16)
- Maxspect Razor 300W 16K (43.5"), will combine with my 27" Razor
- SWC Xtreme 180 Cone Protein Skimmer purchased, will arrive sometime next week.
- EHEIM 1262 for the return pump
- CaribSea Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand
- Eheim-JAGER TS Heater - 250 watt (undersized)
- Used Reefkeeper Lite with Temp Probe and PC4 (4 outlets)
I have a 180 GPD (dual membrane) Spectrapure RO/DI that is still running 0 TDS (handheld temperature correcting meter) even though the DI filter is over a year old. I've replaced the sediment and carbon block once, six months ago. On a good day I am getting maybe 120 GPD from this, so a little over a day to fill up the tank.
I have always used Kent Reef salt but will be switching to Reef Crystals for this tank because I have a full box of it.
I hate the idea of cycling a new tank, but I like the idea of doing it right and using all new rock. In the end I think I will transfer most of the 40 over, bubble algae, sand, and all. At least I don't have any (visible) aptasia thanks to the berghia I used a few months back. I love the 2 year old sand, critters, and muck that makes my 40 such a stable tank.
I am still pondering the fate of my 46. My bubble tip anemone will be coming over on his rock, as will all the fish except the Purple terror (Dottyback) who will be going back to the LFS. THe 46 has apatasia and lots and lots ... and lots of bubble algae.
Plumbing?
I had this grand plan of mostly PVC plumbing but the non DIY'er in me is throwing a fit. The value of being able to close off a return rather than just filling up the sump with excess water is lost on me. I am still pondering my anti-siphon options for the return line.
Electrical?
I have 2 circuits available and I'm considering wiring multiple GFI outlets under the stand to avoid a single point of failure if a main GFI outlet fails. In other words, non GFI into the stand, then wired similar to home electric to multiple GFI outlets for the equipment. So if the return pump shorts out, for example, it would trip the outlet the return is on but no other outlets. It would be logical to have the entire sump be on one GFI circuit so if it trips the sump goes dark, but the display pumps stay on. Heating the display during some kind of sump failure is another consideration I have to think of.
Not having any of the primary circuits on GFI into the stand introduces some risk that I have to evaluate as well. I just hate the fact that I almost lost a tank because, while on vacation, a silly small drip turned the entire tank off save for a single pump I had plugged into an extension cord to a non GFI outlet.
I'm still working on aquascaping ideas, something I'm not very good at.
The floor is not exactly level so I'll be buying some hardwood boards and shims to place under the stand.
Initial inspiration for wanting a 150 is Palting's tank: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2191618
If you see any obvious issues or just want to offer an opinion over my choices please do.
This will be my first full size tank and my first sumped system, so I will probably be making a few obvious mistakes that I can hopefully correct before filling this beast up.
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