Maroun 150g Build Thread
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maroun.c
New member
Time for some happy updates.
The Galaxea recession seems to have stopped after I clened it up. I chekced it out last on 3 days ago before I traveled and my wife is checking it daily and it seems the same. Hope it will start to regrow soon and conver the ugly pieces of white skeleton showing up. My last frags that made the shipping from Germany (16 out of 19) are all still alive and showing healthy polyp extension except that blue accro. my a6 frags became actually 17 as a piece of scroll corla fell down and broke a little piece off.
Now fo reven better. the Hyppo tang I got on 5th Aug 2008 and which arrived floating half dead in the bag. heres a pic of it in the Q tank upon introduction:
It kept swimming on the surface and trying to jump out and spitting water out....
Well after two days it started swimming normally but showed few white spots. I played it safe Q tanked it with hyposalinity for 6 weeks then observed it in normal salinity for 2 weeks and here it goes in the tank. My son as usuall requestes the privilege of inroducing new fish in the tank:
Sorry tank glass was dirty as I had been on travel for 5-6 days.
it immediately ruched on nori and food and I notcied it was a bit on the skinny side. weirdly it mever touched hte nori in the Q tank but went crazy on it as soon as it was in the DT.
The Galaxea recession seems to have stopped after I clened it up. I chekced it out last on 3 days ago before I traveled and my wife is checking it daily and it seems the same. Hope it will start to regrow soon and conver the ugly pieces of white skeleton showing up. My last frags that made the shipping from Germany (16 out of 19) are all still alive and showing healthy polyp extension except that blue accro. my a6 frags became actually 17 as a piece of scroll corla fell down and broke a little piece off.
Now fo reven better. the Hyppo tang I got on 5th Aug 2008 and which arrived floating half dead in the bag. heres a pic of it in the Q tank upon introduction:
It kept swimming on the surface and trying to jump out and spitting water out....
Well after two days it started swimming normally but showed few white spots. I played it safe Q tanked it with hyposalinity for 6 weeks then observed it in normal salinity for 2 weeks and here it goes in the tank. My son as usuall requestes the privilege of inroducing new fish in the tank:
Sorry tank glass was dirty as I had been on travel for 5-6 days.
it immediately ruched on nori and food and I notcied it was a bit on the skinny side. weirdly it mever touched hte nori in the Q tank but went crazy on it as soon as it was in the DT.
maroun.c
New member
Things went well between the new tang and the kole tang I had jsut a few tail bases and after 10 min they disregarded each other however the Kole tang showed very nice coloration don't know if it's an efect of the adrenaline rush? (that is if fish get that)
And some last pics of the Hyppo tang don't show hoe skinny he really is.
As he's eating nori non stop I'm making sure to have some for him in the tank on daily basis and I'm soaking food in fish vitamins too hopefully it will not be worms or other parasites causing him tobe this thin. anything more I need to do for him?
And some last pics of the Hyppo tang don't show hoe skinny he really is.
As he's eating nori non stop I'm making sure to have some for him in the tank on daily basis and I'm soaking food in fish vitamins too hopefully it will not be worms or other parasites causing him tobe this thin. anything more I need to do for him?
maroun.c
New member
When the wife looks at the clams and says this is the nicest thing you have inth whole aquarium, well that's really special and you can't but get "her" a new one:
and a pic of the trio I have now:
Don't you just hait it when you have a fish with such a pose and the focus is not really on it but on the clams ahead:
I tried the clear plastic box idea that marc suggested, not the best picture so still have to experiment with pictures from above but still nice:
The middle size clam has let off the rock it came attached to. Do you think this has any significance? I placed the rock below the sand just below it hoping it will reattach. I didn't see a torn attachment just a couple of strings and the clams still looks very healthy opening as usual (not as much as I would like it too but I was told they don't all fully open) and having good reaction to fish passing by or my hand shadowing it...
and a pic of the trio I have now:
Don't you just hait it when you have a fish with such a pose and the focus is not really on it but on the clams ahead:
I tried the clear plastic box idea that marc suggested, not the best picture so still have to experiment with pictures from above but still nice:
The middle size clam has let off the rock it came attached to. Do you think this has any significance? I placed the rock below the sand just below it hoping it will reattach. I didn't see a torn attachment just a couple of strings and the clams still looks very healthy opening as usual (not as much as I would like it too but I was told they don't all fully open) and having good reaction to fish passing by or my hand shadowing it...
maroun.c
New member
final set of pics for today:
My son who after seeing me working on tank pictures grabbed my old Zenit fully manual and started taking picture (althouh it had no film in it) it was hilarious seeing him struggling to push the manual film advance and struggle to press the shutter release.
And then I had to take pictures of him pulling out an old dead coral skeleton from the frag tank.
My son who after seeing me working on tank pictures grabbed my old Zenit fully manual and started taking picture (althouh it had no film in it) it was hilarious seeing him struggling to push the manual film advance and struggle to press the shutter release.
And then I had to take pictures of him pulling out an old dead coral skeleton from the frag tank.
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Just finished reading most of this thread.
First, really love the tank and found your dedication and excitment refreshing.
Second, love the pictures!
Third, if I had to give one piece of constructive criticism, it would be to get a better skimmer on that beast. Should help with some of the issues you're experiencing.
First, really love the tank and found your dedication and excitment refreshing.
Second, love the pictures!
Third, if I had to give one piece of constructive criticism, it would be to get a better skimmer on that beast. Should help with some of the issues you're experiencing.
maroun.c
New member
Thanks for your kind words makolonj
Concerning the skimmer I actually have two skimmers running together the second one is also a turbofloater but the 750 version instead of the 1000. I've been considering a bigger skimmer however this is the only one that I can get spare parts for. I was thinking that it's been long enough without needing spare parts for those to start considering something different, till when I had to stop the smallest skimmer 2 weeks ago as the pump was leaking around 80 V of electricity in the water, I also went back home to find the skimmer cup cracked adn had to glue it while waiting for a new one. On the positive side, it hsould be able to handle systems up to 1000 Litres so around 1.5 times mine and I do get very dark thick skimmate of this skimmer or soemething of this density filling 3/4 of the cup every 2-3 days when I run it on full wet:
Do you think that this is too wet? As I noticed that thicker than this and the neck clogs after 2 days.
Will try to check if I can get a better skimmer for an acceptable price. Any specific ones you would suggest?
Concerning the skimmer I actually have two skimmers running together the second one is also a turbofloater but the 750 version instead of the 1000. I've been considering a bigger skimmer however this is the only one that I can get spare parts for. I was thinking that it's been long enough without needing spare parts for those to start considering something different, till when I had to stop the smallest skimmer 2 weeks ago as the pump was leaking around 80 V of electricity in the water, I also went back home to find the skimmer cup cracked adn had to glue it while waiting for a new one. On the positive side, it hsould be able to handle systems up to 1000 Litres so around 1.5 times mine and I do get very dark thick skimmate of this skimmer or soemething of this density filling 3/4 of the cup every 2-3 days when I run it on full wet:
Do you think that this is too wet? As I noticed that thicker than this and the neck clogs after 2 days.
Will try to check if I can get a better skimmer for an acceptable price. Any specific ones you would suggest?
maroun.c
New member
Back to "serious" stuff. Marc as well as some people that I spoke to about my mishaps with this tank had suggested recently that I check things on my tank like light timers, water parameters,even somebody told me to check if any of my halides had a mall crack that was leaking unfiltered lights....
So two weeks ago I was home for 6 days and I took my time checking many things in the tank meticulously.not only I checke the timers were set correctly but I checked that each was lighting on time... redid the tests by going again to their manuals and doing it step by step....luckily (or maybe not ) disovered the following:
- The TDS meter read 247 on my input water to the RO 247 again on the water going to the drain and surprisingly 247 on my Ro output water (DI is not available here still trying to get one) I purchased this RO around 8 months just when i was building tank and used it since so I don't know since then I was using tap water for my tank. I do remember that 4-5 months ago the output of my RO increased a bit more than usual and I related it to Summer and warmer water... so took out the membrane to change it and noticed the seals were damged (don't know if this was called by increased pressure or something else) When I also got it there was a broken watervalve that should regulate the output and I believe it affects TDS so this was frozen on the status that I go t it in which was fully closed. so I got the prefilter, carbon, RO and an additional (smell remover filter that comes after the RO changed) and also got a replacement for that valve. Now I'm getting a much reduced flow than before my TDS is reading 250 for tap water, 320 for drain after RO and 16 for RO water. If I open the valve I mentioned the ratio of water going to drain is much more than the RO output and My TDS goes a bit higher. Any info on how this works and how to set it and if it might damage the membrane if fully closed which is giving me the best reults would be appreciated. Now I consider all the Top of water I was using in hot summer days (around 3 Gallons a day and more) and wondering on how I introduced in the tank) I added much more carbon than usuall will change my phosphate remover and do multiple water changes over next month. do you think I should add those heavy meatl removers just in case?
would it be safe to use RO water without DI if TDS is around 16?
-Next thing I noticed was although my Refugium light timer was set correctly (11PM-3PM) it was not lit at 8 Am. Checked it the next day and it did turn on at 11PM but shut down at midnight. contacted the store where I bought it and they told me its a bug their struggling with so so far I solved it by having two cycles 11:00-11:59 then 00:01-3:00 hopefully that will explain the very limited macro alga growth in 6 months not yet needing a pruning which I thought was related to low nutrients. I believe I am seeing some more Caulerpa growth but still not to the point of having to prune soon I guess.
So two weeks ago I was home for 6 days and I took my time checking many things in the tank meticulously.not only I checke the timers were set correctly but I checked that each was lighting on time... redid the tests by going again to their manuals and doing it step by step....luckily (or maybe not ) disovered the following:
- The TDS meter read 247 on my input water to the RO 247 again on the water going to the drain and surprisingly 247 on my Ro output water (DI is not available here still trying to get one) I purchased this RO around 8 months just when i was building tank and used it since so I don't know since then I was using tap water for my tank. I do remember that 4-5 months ago the output of my RO increased a bit more than usual and I related it to Summer and warmer water... so took out the membrane to change it and noticed the seals were damged (don't know if this was called by increased pressure or something else) When I also got it there was a broken watervalve that should regulate the output and I believe it affects TDS so this was frozen on the status that I go t it in which was fully closed. so I got the prefilter, carbon, RO and an additional (smell remover filter that comes after the RO changed) and also got a replacement for that valve. Now I'm getting a much reduced flow than before my TDS is reading 250 for tap water, 320 for drain after RO and 16 for RO water. If I open the valve I mentioned the ratio of water going to drain is much more than the RO output and My TDS goes a bit higher. Any info on how this works and how to set it and if it might damage the membrane if fully closed which is giving me the best reults would be appreciated. Now I consider all the Top of water I was using in hot summer days (around 3 Gallons a day and more) and wondering on how I introduced in the tank) I added much more carbon than usuall will change my phosphate remover and do multiple water changes over next month. do you think I should add those heavy meatl removers just in case?
would it be safe to use RO water without DI if TDS is around 16?
-Next thing I noticed was although my Refugium light timer was set correctly (11PM-3PM) it was not lit at 8 Am. Checked it the next day and it did turn on at 11PM but shut down at midnight. contacted the store where I bought it and they told me its a bug their struggling with so so far I solved it by having two cycles 11:00-11:59 then 00:01-3:00 hopefully that will explain the very limited macro alga growth in 6 months not yet needing a pruning which I thought was related to low nutrients. I believe I am seeing some more Caulerpa growth but still not to the point of having to prune soon I guess.
maroun.c
New member
Last thing which is still a big mess is the alk Ca and Mg levels.I still have to wait for 2 weeks to have my Salifert test kits however I found out something very important and ugly in the JBL test kit that I'm using for CA and MG. In their english version of the manual which I was follwoing it states to add 6 drops of reagant one of the Ca test and in other languages they state 5 as well as not telling you to wait for one minute before adding reagant 2. tried it yesterday and it looks like my Ca is around 420 and alk at 1180 instead of 500 and 980 as per the wrong way I was trying. Not sure which is the correct one however I guess the 5 drops method would be the best as there is no way my Ca would be so high and MG so low. now to make it even worst I sent my water for testing in a medical lab and got the following results:
Ca 534.90mg/l
Mg1417.70mg/l
Bicarbonates226mg/l
alkalinity CaCo3 185mg/l
Will post those in the water chemistry forum to see how these can be transformed into Alkalinity in DKH or ppm.
My tests so far have been:
Tank with mostly LPS and softies dosing CA Balance 25 ml weekly
alk Ca Mg
Till May 2008 10 JBL 440 JBL 1260 JBL
20 June 08 14 JBL 440 JBL 1260 JBL
1 Jul 08 11 JBL 440 JBL 960 JBL
switched to reef crystals
4 Aug 08 12 JBL 500 JBL 1000 JBL
11 Aug 08 460 JBL 940 JBL
20 Aug 08 12 JBL 460 JBL 940 JBL
18 Oct 08 10 JBL 420 JBL 880 JBL
2.4 meq/LRed Sea
24 Oct 08 9 JBL
2.4 meq/LRed Sea
27 Oct 08 Bicarbonates226mg/l 534.90mg/l 1417.70mg/l
alkalinity CaCo3 185mg/l
Fresh mixed satwaer tests as follows:
Reef Crystals 19 JBL 460 JBL 1140 JBL
Crystal sea
MArine mix 20 JBL 420 JBL 880 JBL
1/2 RC 1/2 3.3 meq/L Red Sea
Fresh water tested superior to 3.6 if that has any significance?
Water from a SPS filled tank in Germany kept at 8-9 DKH as per the owner tested 9 DKH by JBL.
So while the JBL test kits looks to be accurate compared to the results of the LFS it does give very high values for fresh mixed water (RC 19 for Reef crystal and 20 for Crystal sea marine mix) the Red sea test kits does test on the high side for KH for new water 3.3 as its normal value is 1.7-2.8 although I know that normal KH values are 2.5-4?
3.3 translates to 9.2 DKH which should be normal?
Could one kit be right with used water but miss by far with new water? I test after mixing and aerating for 24 hours.
anyone can translate the results I got from the lab Bicarbonates226mg/l alkalinity CaCo3 185mg/l To KH or mEq?
the worst part would be if those do not match with results from both kits I have JBL And Red Sea as well as with SAlifert once I get it.
Sorry long post but I have been struggling with water testing since months now and am afraid to dose Alk Ca or Mg on a side note I have added around 1 KG of Mg Tropic MArin Bio Mag last month when my Mg values were around 900 and raised it to 1100 on my kit however the lab tested 1417. all my SPS (3 medium size and around 15 tiny to small frags are doing fine with 4 clams doing good. my softies and LPS are looking much better and some have recovered colours that they had lost for no reason before and are growig in size. had some Cyano on the sand bed till last Sat when I travelled. Got back on Thirsday to find it all gone. could that be the Mg addition? in that case am I really at 1417 mg /l and should I take it back now?
Ca 534.90mg/l
Mg1417.70mg/l
Bicarbonates226mg/l
alkalinity CaCo3 185mg/l
Will post those in the water chemistry forum to see how these can be transformed into Alkalinity in DKH or ppm.
My tests so far have been:
Tank with mostly LPS and softies dosing CA Balance 25 ml weekly
alk Ca Mg
Till May 2008 10 JBL 440 JBL 1260 JBL
20 June 08 14 JBL 440 JBL 1260 JBL
1 Jul 08 11 JBL 440 JBL 960 JBL
switched to reef crystals
4 Aug 08 12 JBL 500 JBL 1000 JBL
11 Aug 08 460 JBL 940 JBL
20 Aug 08 12 JBL 460 JBL 940 JBL
18 Oct 08 10 JBL 420 JBL 880 JBL
2.4 meq/LRed Sea
24 Oct 08 9 JBL
2.4 meq/LRed Sea
27 Oct 08 Bicarbonates226mg/l 534.90mg/l 1417.70mg/l
alkalinity CaCo3 185mg/l
Fresh mixed satwaer tests as follows:
Reef Crystals 19 JBL 460 JBL 1140 JBL
Crystal sea
MArine mix 20 JBL 420 JBL 880 JBL
1/2 RC 1/2 3.3 meq/L Red Sea
Fresh water tested superior to 3.6 if that has any significance?
Water from a SPS filled tank in Germany kept at 8-9 DKH as per the owner tested 9 DKH by JBL.
So while the JBL test kits looks to be accurate compared to the results of the LFS it does give very high values for fresh mixed water (RC 19 for Reef crystal and 20 for Crystal sea marine mix) the Red sea test kits does test on the high side for KH for new water 3.3 as its normal value is 1.7-2.8 although I know that normal KH values are 2.5-4?
3.3 translates to 9.2 DKH which should be normal?
Could one kit be right with used water but miss by far with new water? I test after mixing and aerating for 24 hours.
anyone can translate the results I got from the lab Bicarbonates226mg/l alkalinity CaCo3 185mg/l To KH or mEq?
the worst part would be if those do not match with results from both kits I have JBL And Red Sea as well as with SAlifert once I get it.
Sorry long post but I have been struggling with water testing since months now and am afraid to dose Alk Ca or Mg on a side note I have added around 1 KG of Mg Tropic MArin Bio Mag last month when my Mg values were around 900 and raised it to 1100 on my kit however the lab tested 1417. all my SPS (3 medium size and around 15 tiny to small frags are doing fine with 4 clams doing good. my softies and LPS are looking much better and some have recovered colours that they had lost for no reason before and are growig in size. had some Cyano on the sand bed till last Sat when I travelled. Got back on Thirsday to find it all gone. could that be the Mg addition? in that case am I really at 1417 mg /l and should I take it back now?
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melev
Well-known member
Lots of good information to consider. In a nutshell:
Magnesium is good.
Alkalinity is too low.
Calcium is good.
TDS is much much better.
Lighting issue getting resolved.
The higher TDS all this time coupled with lower alkalinity explains why your corals just seem unhappy to me (faded / clear mushrooms, SPS that aren't thriving). If you only have RO water and it is around 10 TDS, that's going to be far better than getting stuff right out of the faucet. I'm very happy to hear that is resolved. FYI, the 'smell remover' is carbon, and often adds a bit of TDS back to the water. You might test it after the RO before that section, and if you get a lower number, stop using that add-on.
You asked about the flow restrictor knob that alters the waste to good ratio. Usually, the rate is 4:1, but some can get by with 3:1 and still get good numbers. You will have to decide for yourself what that sweet spot is, based on production rate vs TDS levels.
Alkalinity should be 8 to 11 dKH (many like 8, going higher is still okay). That would be 2.86 meq/L to 3.89 meq/L , so you do want to raise that up higher.
The mistakes in the test kit instructions due to various languages is a bad one on the company's part. I've seen that with a different brand, since I know a few languages. I remember reading how to use their phosphate kit, and Italian told you one thing, German another, and English even less. I contacted the rep for their company to find out which was the right one and what should I be ignoring.
It's good that you discovered this, and I would recommend you follow up with them to make sure they get those instructions updated for future customers.
Magnesium is good.
Alkalinity is too low.
Calcium is good.
TDS is much much better.
Lighting issue getting resolved.
The higher TDS all this time coupled with lower alkalinity explains why your corals just seem unhappy to me (faded / clear mushrooms, SPS that aren't thriving). If you only have RO water and it is around 10 TDS, that's going to be far better than getting stuff right out of the faucet. I'm very happy to hear that is resolved. FYI, the 'smell remover' is carbon, and often adds a bit of TDS back to the water. You might test it after the RO before that section, and if you get a lower number, stop using that add-on.
You asked about the flow restrictor knob that alters the waste to good ratio. Usually, the rate is 4:1, but some can get by with 3:1 and still get good numbers. You will have to decide for yourself what that sweet spot is, based on production rate vs TDS levels.
Alkalinity should be 8 to 11 dKH (many like 8, going higher is still okay). That would be 2.86 meq/L to 3.89 meq/L , so you do want to raise that up higher.
The mistakes in the test kit instructions due to various languages is a bad one on the company's part. I've seen that with a different brand, since I know a few languages. I remember reading how to use their phosphate kit, and Italian told you one thing, German another, and English even less. I contacted the rep for their company to find out which was the right one and what should I be ignoring.
It's good that you discovered this, and I would recommend you follow up with them to make sure they get those instructions updated for future customers.
maroun.c
New member
New travel trip and new shipment on the way back.
This time I was in Abu Dhabi then I had one day in Dubai to be beack in the evening. Found a great shop in Abu Dhabi that hada nice selection of corals (only on e SPS which I took) most important they had yellow tangs. which I have been looking for for years now. WEirdly we rarely get them in the country guess it's because of the long shipping time in hawai (don't know if they exist in Indonesia, philipines..? and if they have some bans on their export as when I've been ordering them on monthly basis froma store that ships some of my stuff with their freshwater orders but never getting them. the ones I saw in my country would lsee for 200+ usd which was a ridicuouls price.
So decided tot ake the risk with that fish and take it bag for a 30 hours plus trip. I also picked up a very nice clam and a Coco worm which still did not open so I'm presuming it died in shipping.
And in the Q tank for the Yellow tang
this was a very hard trip for the fish and for me, and things kept on going harder and harder.
I picked up the fish and corals and headed to Dubai where I was supposed to spend the night and fly the second day late afternoon and on the way to Dubai stopped for a coffe break only to notice water was leaking in the foam box. Everything was tripple bagged and I thought this should be the koko worm or the clam bag as they must have cut the bag. Unfortunately it was fromt the yellow tang's bag and it was dripping fast. so coffe break was cancelled, rushe to an LFS in Dubai and they were nice enough to accept to rebag the fish for me and the advantage wasa new boost of oxygen in the bag along with new clean water for it. Another advantage of this stopp is that I also bought a gorgonian a Christmas tree(coral) and a cauliflower. Then I got a bit lucky that my presentation for the next day got cancelled and I was able to take the morning flight back instead of the evening one which cut down around 12 hours in the bag for my additions. arrived home and as I had been told on a post here was headed towards temp acclimating by floating the bag and then immediately dropping it in the water as ammonia will become more toxic when I open the bag. only this would not happen as I checked water for PH and salinity ant although PH was around 7.7 salinity was 1.030 this was a bummer. Checked all the other bags and everyhing I got from the 1st LFS was 1.030 and from the second one was 1.029. I was using my refractometer so checked it with distilled water and it was 0 Cross checked the water from those LFS with my swing arm and it showed the same 1.030 my floating hydrometer also was the same. this meant I was to acclimate much longer than I expected. so I setup slow drip lines and went and checked my refractometer against the LFS and took sample of the new corals water and my measurments were right. I was able to acclimate the yellow tang for only 2 hours as after that he was loosing balance and hyperventilating so I dropped him in my Q tank and luckily it looks like he made it. all corals had a nonger acclimatation.
This time I was in Abu Dhabi then I had one day in Dubai to be beack in the evening. Found a great shop in Abu Dhabi that hada nice selection of corals (only on e SPS which I took) most important they had yellow tangs. which I have been looking for for years now. WEirdly we rarely get them in the country guess it's because of the long shipping time in hawai (don't know if they exist in Indonesia, philipines..? and if they have some bans on their export as when I've been ordering them on monthly basis froma store that ships some of my stuff with their freshwater orders but never getting them. the ones I saw in my country would lsee for 200+ usd which was a ridicuouls price.
So decided tot ake the risk with that fish and take it bag for a 30 hours plus trip. I also picked up a very nice clam and a Coco worm which still did not open so I'm presuming it died in shipping.
And in the Q tank for the Yellow tang
this was a very hard trip for the fish and for me, and things kept on going harder and harder.
I picked up the fish and corals and headed to Dubai where I was supposed to spend the night and fly the second day late afternoon and on the way to Dubai stopped for a coffe break only to notice water was leaking in the foam box. Everything was tripple bagged and I thought this should be the koko worm or the clam bag as they must have cut the bag. Unfortunately it was fromt the yellow tang's bag and it was dripping fast. so coffe break was cancelled, rushe to an LFS in Dubai and they were nice enough to accept to rebag the fish for me and the advantage wasa new boost of oxygen in the bag along with new clean water for it. Another advantage of this stopp is that I also bought a gorgonian a Christmas tree(coral) and a cauliflower. Then I got a bit lucky that my presentation for the next day got cancelled and I was able to take the morning flight back instead of the evening one which cut down around 12 hours in the bag for my additions. arrived home and as I had been told on a post here was headed towards temp acclimating by floating the bag and then immediately dropping it in the water as ammonia will become more toxic when I open the bag. only this would not happen as I checked water for PH and salinity ant although PH was around 7.7 salinity was 1.030 this was a bummer. Checked all the other bags and everyhing I got from the 1st LFS was 1.030 and from the second one was 1.029. I was using my refractometer so checked it with distilled water and it was 0 Cross checked the water from those LFS with my swing arm and it showed the same 1.030 my floating hydrometer also was the same. this meant I was to acclimate much longer than I expected. so I setup slow drip lines and went and checked my refractometer against the LFS and took sample of the new corals water and my measurments were right. I was able to acclimate the yellow tang for only 2 hours as after that he was loosing balance and hyperventilating so I dropped him in my Q tank and luckily it looks like he made it. all corals had a nonger acclimatation.
maroun.c
New member
This is the SPS I got:
immediatly after introduction in the tank with no polyps.
The other side of it showed this don't know if it had it initially or not and if this is to worry about?
Later on with full Polyp extension. and after having moved it to it's final place, also in the pics some of my frags that seem to have made it.
Can you please ID this coral as well as inform me about placement preferences, so far it's under medium lighting and will move it in few days to higher lighting. Flow is medium on it do you think I should have it in stronger flow area? So far it looks happy with PE much more than my accroporas.
Now for the Clam, although I am more into blue clams I saw this brown one and it looked amazing. so I picked it up. IS this a teardrop or what?
Under acclimatation (which took hours to drop from 1.030 to 1.023)
And a shot of my clams garden in formation.
I know the lower Rt and middle are maximas I believe the one on the lower let is also a maxima as it is very similar to the one on the Right? and how about hte new one is it also a maxima? any links to some clam identification info as I never know which one is which?
And at last from all those 4 which one do you think needs the more lighting as I would like to elevate on or two on the rocks and have a few on the sand level but can't tell which. So far all look very happy excpet that the one on the righ which does not fully open but does show nice mantle extension and reactions to shadows. Recently the rock it was on broke and its only attached to a verysmall part of it and I couldn't get it to attach on another rock by placing it on it so was wondering if there are any other signe to check for to tell if a clam is really happy or not.
immediatly after introduction in the tank with no polyps.
The other side of it showed this don't know if it had it initially or not and if this is to worry about?
Later on with full Polyp extension. and after having moved it to it's final place, also in the pics some of my frags that seem to have made it.
Can you please ID this coral as well as inform me about placement preferences, so far it's under medium lighting and will move it in few days to higher lighting. Flow is medium on it do you think I should have it in stronger flow area? So far it looks happy with PE much more than my accroporas.
Now for the Clam, although I am more into blue clams I saw this brown one and it looked amazing. so I picked it up. IS this a teardrop or what?
Under acclimatation (which took hours to drop from 1.030 to 1.023)
And a shot of my clams garden in formation.
I know the lower Rt and middle are maximas I believe the one on the lower let is also a maxima as it is very similar to the one on the Right? and how about hte new one is it also a maxima? any links to some clam identification info as I never know which one is which?
And at last from all those 4 which one do you think needs the more lighting as I would like to elevate on or two on the rocks and have a few on the sand level but can't tell which. So far all look very happy excpet that the one on the righ which does not fully open but does show nice mantle extension and reactions to shadows. Recently the rock it was on broke and its only attached to a verysmall part of it and I couldn't get it to attach on another rock by placing it on it so was wondering if there are any other signe to check for to tell if a clam is really happy or not.
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