Matt's 5000ltr Display
- Thread starter d3hree
- Start date
d3hree
New member
Next came the plywood base. I used 18mm thick exterior ply. Because of the size of the tank I had to get 10ft x 5ft sheets which in the UK is quite a special order, the usual stock is 8ft x 4ft.
The ply is screwed down to the stand at 3" intervals.
After what seemed an age and a huge amount of screws I had the base of my tank. Over 40 square feet of it.
The ply is screwed down to the stand at 3" intervals.
After what seemed an age and a huge amount of screws I had the base of my tank. Over 40 square feet of it.
lifesaver31
New member
I have to agree with this. Noob here. 2nd post.
5000ltr = 1320 gallons = 11646 lbs....and thats just water.
None the less, sick build!
d3hree
New member
Er...god I hope so!...I had it worked out. It makes a difference that it is surrounded on 3 sides and bolted into brick walls. There is a thread here that talks about 4x2" timber end on end being able to withstand 19,000lbs I believe.
I designed the stand similar to the design on that thread where the weight is transfered to the wood and doesnt rely on fixings being in shear (apart from the anchor bolts)
The largest span without support is about 3.5ft.
How large is your tank?...is the stand freestanding.
I would rather re-do the stand that have a 5000ltr flood!
d3hree
New member
Thanks.
I use millimeters normally but I have noticed that you normally use inches on this forum, so using inches is to try and fit in..
Unfortunately UK gallons differ from US gallons so whilst I know the litres of all the equipment etc I would have to be continuosly converting all the lph figures to US gallons. A litre is a litre, an inch is an inch what ever side of the pond you are on.
d3hree
New member
I will have to re-assess the stand if the general opinion is that it is underbuilt.
The tank spans and is fixed to 4 joists. A single joist can withstand 3 tonnes ( so I have been told)
The water weight will be about 5 tonnes, a little more maybe. Add sand and rock and i will be looking at about 7 tonnes. The stand was worked out using a weight of 8 tonnes.
Also because of the nature of the build the tank itself will also be fixed to the walls, it isnt a glass tank sat on the stand. So the whole structure will be contributing to the support.
kentrob11
Premium Member
Net build! Can I offer you a different perspective on the tank lining? Have you thought about doing a 1/4" PVC sheet lined tank like those that Royal Exclusiv builds? I am doing a similar project but slightly larger (about 2500 gallons) and will be doing 2 layers of plywood and then basically lining the inside of the tank with 1/4" PVC sheet with heat welded seams. Basically you end up with very durable tank lining that will stand up to scraping and other "marine beatings". It would also be a heck of a lot easier in my opinion than countless layers of epoxy/fiberglass.
sfsuphysics
Active member
One thing I may have changed. You put that damp proof (plastic?) membrane under the timber on the concrete (that's good, you should always isolate wood from concrete) however I would have cut the membrane and wrapped it around the timber only. It looks like you simply laid it flat almost like a pond liner across the whole floor, so if water gets there from the top, it has no where to go, and will actually hold water, as opposed to let it touch concrete.
Might not be something that can be addressed anymore, but just was a thought, you're zooming through this build fairly quickly.
Might not be something that can be addressed anymore, but just was a thought, you're zooming through this build fairly quickly.
kentrob11
Premium Member
I don't know of an exact link but there's a reference to it about halfway down this page:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1204124
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1204124
d3hree
New member
Damn, thats a good idea...why didnt I think of that?...it is a little late I suppose...I could lift the floor boards and cut around the wood so there is large holes in the membrane...would that be ok?
sfsuphysics
Active member
if the floor boards are simply screwed down, I'd absolutely take them up again.
Cutting gaps would work, a better idea might be to cut an X between the areas of timber on the plastic, so you have triangle pieces of plastic that you can wrap up and over any boards (cut off any excess). However simply making large holes would work just as fine as well since you did put the water resistant paint on them, and it would prevent the area from becoming a pond if you had a big spill
however it all depends how much spillage you think you might get. With a separate fish room, most of the water work might be done there... however with a tank that large, and thinking you might be "going in" on a regular basis, I'd say the tank area is also potentially a really wet (drippy) zone.
Cutting gaps would work, a better idea might be to cut an X between the areas of timber on the plastic, so you have triangle pieces of plastic that you can wrap up and over any boards (cut off any excess). However simply making large holes would work just as fine as well since you did put the water resistant paint on them, and it would prevent the area from becoming a pond if you had a big spill
however it all depends how much spillage you think you might get. With a separate fish room, most of the water work might be done there... however with a tank that large, and thinking you might be "going in" on a regular basis, I'd say the tank area is also potentially a really wet (drippy) zone.
d3hree
New member
Thanks Mike
Yes I think I will take your advice, I can cut up the membrane and wrap the wood in the excess.
i will also lay another membrane on top of the floorboards under the finish flooring to try and avoid any water getting down there in the first place.
Thanks for your help.
Yes I think I will take your advice, I can cut up the membrane and wrap the wood in the excess.
i will also lay another membrane on top of the floorboards under the finish flooring to try and avoid any water getting down there in the first place.
Thanks for your help.
d3hree
New member
Thanks for this kentrob11
I had a look at those pics and it does look very cool. For this build however I think I will stick to the fibreglass method only because I have read a lot of threads relating to that method and feel comfortable with the principles.
Maybe on the next build!
Thanks very much for the info, much appreciated. I look forward to seeing your 2500 gallon tank!, now thats a monster!
d3hree
New member
Just a little more to add before you are all caught up.
New toy, remote screen for GHL
I want this to be set into the wall next to the tank so i can get some info with a quick glance tank side.
So I ran the cable from the fish room to where I want the screen, chiseled out the brick wall and lined it with plasterboard ready for the final skim.
New toy, remote screen for GHL
I want this to be set into the wall next to the tank so i can get some info with a quick glance tank side.
So I ran the cable from the fish room to where I want the screen, chiseled out the brick wall and lined it with plasterboard ready for the final skim.
sfsuphysics
Active member
Just try to imagine where the water will go. Not sure I'm imagining what you're doing but I would not suggest sandwiching plastic between wood, because you'll have the same problem if water gets on the plastic, it has no where to go, and you'll definitely ruin/warp the finish flooring.
How's the air circulation down in that space with the concrete? Does air flow at all? Or is it insulated from the outside? If you have adequate airflow I wouldn't worry when water drips down there. If air doesn't flow, then I'd definitely go with a plan to prohibit water from getting there.
