Me, the camera, or the lens??

[IPT]

Okay, I am fairly proficent with a camera (at least shooting Landscapes and wildlife) but what the heck is going on here? I canno take a good macro shot for anything (at least not of my corals!).

I have tried a flash, cable release, fast shutter speeds. I thought my focus was off because most of my shots are just plain out of focus. I then took a pic of the Cable remote and the focus a dept of field were dead on.

Focus issues aside (but I am open to suggestions here) I also noticed some sort of fringing also degrading the quality of many pics. Can some one tell me about this. Almost looks like a minor double exposure (or like the camera was disturbed during the exposure).

The Turquiose Stag shot was taken with a Canon 5D, Canon f2.8 macro lens all mounted on a tripod. Iso 800, F5.6 at 1/180 shutter speed. It shoud be tack sharp. What's the deal? ANy thoughts?

 

[IPT]

another

 

[spscrackhead]

are you on a tripod? looks like camera shake to me

 

[Phyl]

Is the lens surface parallel to the tank glass?

 

[JB_1152]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11375061#post11375061 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spscrackhead
are you on a tripod? looks like camera shake to me

x2 Was gonna say the same thing.

 

["Umm fish?"]

Is the lens surface parallel to the tank glass?

x2 Was gonna say the same thing.

But, that's not really very helpful of me. What type of flash (on camera, off, make)? Where's it located? Try this: move your tripod close to the glass and put the lens absolutely flat against the surface. Now focus on anything (doesn't need to be 1:1 for the test) and take a shot. How's it look? Also, maybe try a photo on full automatic (shudder) and see how the camera does. How sturdy is your tripod? Crappy tripods give crappy photos. What length lens are you using?

 

[Newlin]

He said that he was on a tripod. I would play with the ISO. I had this very problem and I started playing around with the iso and it got better.

 

[oct2274]

i would try iso 400 or even 200 if you have good light, smaller aperture = larger number, and slower shutter speed maybe somewhere between 1/60 and 1/100. it really depends on the camera though.

 

[IPT]

I have gotton the same result with and without flash (the flash, not used here, is the 420EX I believe). "Yes", it was on a tripod though the head quality is questionable. None the less I have gotton the same result using mirror lock up and a cable release so abberant motion should not be any issue at all. (I am in the process of ordering a RRS BH40 ballhead to replace the one I have now anyway - time to upgrade ). As for the ISO, this was already at ISO 800. The focal length was 100mm and shutter speed of 1/180. In theory I should have practically been able to hand hold this (even though as I said it was on a tripod)!

It is a chromic abberation (sp?)? I have yet to use this lens for landscape or anything but this happens in almost all of my tank shots. Could the contrast ratio of the black background be the issue?? I know the Canon 100mm Macro is a highly regarded lens so I hesitate to place the blame there.

 

[Phyl]

You didn't answer whether or not the lens was exactly parallel to the glass. If you can get good shots outside of the tank then there is op err going on here somewhere. You can not have the cam on any angle at all and expect a quality photo.

 

["Umm fish?"]

I would also reduce your ISO, as 800 will be very grainy. I'd set it back down to 100 or 200. But I don't think the ISO is your problem. I do think it's about getting the camera back parallel to the glass.

The shots you posted weren't the flash shots, right? The 100mm isn't really that long, but if you're taking photos at the very minimum focusing distance, it's possible that the lens shadowed your subject. By the way, how far were you from your subject? The minimum on the 100mm is something like 6-8". You were at least that far away, right? Any closer and it won't focus at all.

But, again, it really looks like you are shooting on an angle. Remember, the tank glass acts to mess up the light path to the sensor in your camera. The best way to deal with the issue is to shoot flat.

 

[maroun.c]

I believe the pics suffer from a lot of purple fringing to start with which should not happen to this extent with a lens of such quality.
Are you using any filters on the lens try shooting without the filter if yes.
Also this picture is not in focus. Make sure your camera is focusing on the coral and not on something in the background.
Shutter speed is faster than you really need. I would decrease the iso and use even slower shutter speed. Try to shoot flashless and if you don't have enough lights and have to use flash, try to decrease flash contribution by using smaller aperture. Remember that shutter speed dopes not affect flash contribution as the flash exposure is much faster so you can reduce it either by reducing flash exposure compensation or using a smaller aperture. In this picture most of the light is coming from the flash as the background is near black. I would rather have the tank lighting contribute in the picture (slower shutter speed) and a little bit of flash to freeze motion usually for fish (dialled down flash or smaller aperture)
It is very important to shoot vertical to the glass to decrease distortion. Aslo have the lens directly on the glass if the front element does not protrude. you could decreased the water flow inthe tank if you think your getting some blurr due to corals moving. As i said you don't have to use 1/180 if on a tripod and using a cable release even if the tripod or the head is not really good.

 

[IPT]

Alright, thanks for the input. I am pretty sure I was not parallel to the glass. Never knew I had to be so maybe that is it.

These pictures are without the flash. The tank background is black and I metered off the rocks and recompossed )(basically under exposed by about 1 1/2 stops per my in camera meter. I agree the shutter speed is more than adaquate.

I have had focusing issues in general. I really thought it was the camera because I have used high shutter speeds and cable releases etc. In the two tests I did however the camera did well (the remote and I also shot a ruler at a 45 degree angle to look for front or back focusing). Also, all the shots were taken using auto focus so the distance must have been adaquate or it would have locked in. I tried manual but my eyes suck, and well, no prayer there.

Would shooting at an angle cause purple fringing? I think that is the one thing I have not controlled for or taken into consideration. I'll have to play more.

 

[maroun.c]

I just remember reading about an efffect called Lateral fringe if I remember correctly it only happens at very specific conditions: angle light and maybe aperture...
I remember seeing a picture that described it where there was a purple fringe at the lateral side and then a greenish tint close to the middle.
try doing a serach on it and see if it describes your condition.

 

[IPT]

Thanks maroun

 

[Ebn]

Your frags are mounted and aren't moving in the current correct? Just asking since what I see is more along the lines of movement (either via the camera or subject itself). Also, back to the question of how stable is that ballhead of your's? If it's even moving slightly (as in movement during mirror slap), then there's another issue there. Lastly, have you tried shooting with another lens?

It's definitely not an ISO issue (ISO 800 on the 5D is cakewalk) since that camera handles noise remarkably well.

 

[IPT]

The tripod head is a piece of junk really. I mad eit work by using high shutter speeds, cable release, and mirror lock up. I have a RRS BH-55 on the way That should solve that problem. The coral was still, I think. The pumps were on though so I guess that is really up for debate.