Melev's new 280g Starfire tank thread

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Because I already have the test kit from my freshwater days. ;) OK, I still have my freshwater tanks, 4 total, but they've been so stable for so long that I never test them anymore.

Phil
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11178536#post11178536 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kentanner11
wow thanks for the info. hmm, is the inside diameter the same as regular PVC, cause maby I could slide the spa-flex over the outlets from the overflow and add some clamps.

That would defeat the purpose of using the spa-flex wouldn't it? The whole idea is to be able to use flexible hose that is gluable to PVC fittings right? Why bring in a point of failure with hose clamps? I have seen many stand sump installs where a variety of hoses and clamps are used, and virtually every one has salt creep at the minimum.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11179258#post11179258 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Alaska_Phil
Because I already have the test kit from my freshwater days. ;) OK, I still have my freshwater tanks, 4 total, but they've been so stable for so long that I never test them anymore.

Phil

TDS actually tests for other things than just calcium and magnesium (which make up general hardness) but you probably could use GH as a crude measure of the effectiveness of the RO filter. It won't tell you though if there are other impurities post-RO/DI water.

Spleen
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11178536#post11178536 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kentanner11
wow thanks for the info. hmm, is the inside diameter the same as regular PVC, cause maby I could slide the spa-flex over the outlets from the overflow and add some clamps.

I dont know if you could clamp it tight enough to ensure it will hold. Spaflex is not as flexible as you would think, especially if you are trying to bend it the opposite way it was rolled. It has a pretty strong memory.
 
FYI, you can 'relax' Spaflex by putting it in the oven @ 200 or so for 10 minutes. Then it can be laid out / straightened to whatever shape you want.
 
I think I am going to have to take my overflow to the store and try to find something to fit it! I am now taking bets for how many times I am going to be asked "what the heck is that" lol. Thanks for the help!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11179286#post11179286 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
That would defeat the purpose of using the spa-flex wouldn't it? The whole idea is to be able to use flexible hose that is gluable to PVC fittings right? Why bring in a point of failure with hose clamps? I have seen many stand sump installs where a variety of hoses and clamps are used, and virtually every one has salt creep at the minimum.


What I would do is slide the Spa flex over the pipes coming from my overflow and clamp and glue and what ever else it takes to keep it on then just run it like 3 feet into my sump.

It is either this or pool hose, which I doubt will fit, but it might....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11175916#post11175916 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kentanner11
Hey marc I have a question about that spaflex tubing: What kind of connectors does it use (if any) like could it be hooked up to regular PVC? Also I have this overflow (SOS)
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3579+3589&pcatid=3589
bought from a local reefer and normal sized PVC fittings (90's 45's T and X) do not fit they are all way way too loose I was going to use Pool tube but they lengths are way too long for what I need and if I can use Spaflex with PVC I am sure it will fit the overflow connection.

I used that particular type of overflow on my 55g, along with that blue pool-type hose. It fit over a specific PVC pipe, which the tiny sump came with. I didn't have to search for matching connections. Later when I upgraded to my DIY sump, I simply had the hose drain into the sump so again I didn't need a special connection.

It is very important that you put a hoseclamp on the fitting where it is connected beneath the overflow. Even though the hose will fit tightly, gravity pulls non-stop and eventually it could be a real problem if it ever popped loose. Your tank would continue to fill up from whatever water is in the return section of the sump, and the overflow box would dump water behind the tank on the floor for the duration.
 
Re: RO/DI question?

Re: RO/DI question?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11178631#post11178631 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by huge1day
Saw Marc's tank last night. Some very good growth since I saw it last year. The leather on the right side of the tank is huge...

As always had a good time just talking tanks with Marc and his son.

Thanks for all the help...

It was nice visiting with you Bart. Be sure to send me a link to your tank thread when you get a chance.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11178666#post11178666 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Alaska_Phil
Marc, is there any way to test TDS other than the electronic meters? Would a general hardness test give the same results?

I really want to get one of the RO/DI units you sell, but I'm worried my tap water will clog the RO membrane in short order. It's very hard, and high in Iron and Manganese, so I'm trying to figure out just what home filtration I need. Unfortunately, the only water quality experts I can find locally just tell me I need to buy their system. :rolleyes:

Thanks.

Phil

When it comes to testing your water, there are several ways to measure it.

PSI
Temperature
Phosphate
Nitrate
Chlorine
and TDS.

If your water is very hard, and you've opted to install a water softener in your home, run the RO/DI system after the water softener. This will allow the system to work more easily and the filters will last longer than if they were processing the raw hard water.

You mentioned using freshwater kits. Are they pretty old? Perhaps the readings are no longer accurate at this point.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11180962#post11180962 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tedu
FYI, you can 'relax' Spaflex by putting it in the oven @ 200 or so for 10 minutes. Then it can be laid out / straightened to whatever shape you want.

5 minutes is plenty. At that point, it is already too hot to handle for long. I've had to work with it a few times, and holding it with a towel helps me keep my fingerprints. ;)

I don't glue hot fittings, as I don't know if that will be a problem down the road. It cools off relatively quickly, so I just bend it the direction I need it to run, and keep it in that pattern as it cools.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11189320#post11189320 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I used that particular type of overflow on my 55g, along with that blue pool-type hose. It fit over a specific PVC pipe, which the tiny sump came with. I didn't have to search for matching connections. Later when I upgraded to my DIY sump, I simply had the hose drain into the sump so again I didn't need a special connection.

It is very important that you put a hoseclamp on the fitting where it is connected beneath the overflow. Even though the hose will fit tightly, gravity pulls non-stop and eventually it could be a real problem if it ever popped loose. Your tank would continue to fill up from whatever water is in the return section of the sump, and the overflow box would dump water behind the tank on the floor for the duration.

Wow that is weird, I am putting it on my 55g lol. I just need something to connect on the overflow and I can leave the ends in my sump.

I might try to see if there is any tubing that might fit I dont really need 8 feet of hose lol ...... anyone happen to know the ID of the pool hose?

Thanks!!!:rollface:
 
Great video Marc. That's one of my favorite views, as it reminds me of what one sees during the ascent after a nice dive.
 
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