MH lighting for 8' tank

D

DrDNA

New member
I am trying to decide on some lighting options for my tank. It is 8'x30"x24" LWD. One of the problems is that I can't hang the fixtures from the ceiling because of the location of the tank, and besides my wife requested there not to be a bunch of cables hanging from the ceiling. So, I am considering some of the fixtures that have "legs" or tank mounting kits. Yes, I know hanging the fixtures is the best way to do it.
Here are a couple of the alternatives I am trying to decide between... should I go with say two 4' fixtures with 2x250MH each and put them end-to-end, or two of the 72" 3x150MH and put them side-by-side and lose some light at each end of the tank? The overflow box will actually be on end since it will be sticking out into the room perpendicular to the wall. I'd also like to use the fixtures that also have T5's (preferable) or PCs included, was thinking of either Sunlight Supply "Maristar", Coralife's "Aqualight Pro", or Current USA's "Outer Orbit" fixtures... decisions decisions!
What do you all think? I am also open to other ideas (i.e. collecting stamps instead).
 
Hey whatsup doc :D

Sorry, had to ;)

I like the idea of of the (2)4ft'rs end to end, that will keep you in the 1MH per 2 ft recommendation, which really is good advice for optimal coverage and would allow you more options as opposed to "well I cant put that on the end of the tank..." and the 250's will be ideal for the penetration you need. I would only recommend 150's 24" and lower, ideally 20" or lower. Me personally wouldnt go with a fixture but a retro that will allow me the most upgrades and quality potential and still save money. For supplementing I would also recommend T5 with IceCap reflectors(overdriven w/ an IceCap ballast, sure why not with all the money you'll save ;) ), they too will provide you the depth penetration that you'll need for keeping critters on the sandbed/bottom. But of course you'll need a canopy/hood to go retrofit, but hey, she might like the "finished" look :)

-Justin
 
On a further note, the downside with prefabbed fixtures, even the best of the best whatever that may be is it's innefficiency. You have to be conscious of how high so you dont run the risk of splash, bleaching etc. for bulbs and critters with MH. The average placement is from 10-18 inches, that becomes a major problem with flourescent bulbs, NO,HO,VHO and PC. There intended use and optimally supplying light to our reefs is between 1"-8" with a happy median of 3-4" for most makes. Btw, if no ones welcomed you yet; WELCOME TO RC AND THE MARS FORUM!! :)

-Justin
 
Thanks for the ideas Justin! I was checking out the Maristars and Finnex's fixtures too. Yeah, I might just end up doing a canopy too, in which case I would use the 250 DE bulbs. I was considering using T5's only, but I think I'll most likely go with MH since I'd like to keep some clams too.
Thanks for welcoming me to the MARS forum!
 
The size of your tank and your prerequisites do present an interesting design challenge......But what is your ultimate goal for this tank.....mixed, softie, LPS, SPS? The answer to that can affect the design and cost dramaticly.

However, with that said and the size of the tank I would consider building your own from pieces and fabbing up your own "fixture" compared to buying the units......however if that sounds like a daunting task I have had both the 150 and 250 version of the Aqualight pro and LOVE it, however the 250 48" set was over $1000 and most cringe at just that with out having to buy another also......however, I am a fan of the 250's.......The 150's just didn't have the PAR to cut through and color stuff up......I think in the end even with your tank depth, you will have greater bulb options and adjustablility as far as light placement, ie height over the tank by going with the 250s........

The only drawback from using to self enclosed units is cost and a less than attractive look with the two setups that are not a continous unit, split in the middle, and the Aqualights have something like 4-6 wires on the back of them....lots of outlets and possibly a dedicated circuit at that point, mine dims a little when the chiller kicks in, I couldn't imagine the draw with two of those things......I think something fabbed up possibly adjustable in height with 1 light per 2 feet would be excellent.(Most in part I think I could design and build something better than what I have seen, but the Guiessmans are attractive and sleek I have to admit) In combination with the first question you could tailor that to save a little money and go with 150s on the end and keep LPS there and go with 250s in the middle and have SPS there.........

In addition to all of this, we need to think about supplementation?....do you plan on running a higher Kelvin bulb say 20K MH bulbs and not run any supplementation with T5s or PCs.........

Your design options are limitless.....but it should revolve around the tank you want and envision in your head......
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8323602#post8323602 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DrDNA
Thanks for the ideas Justin! I was checking out the Maristars and Finnex's fixtures too. Yeah, I might just end up doing a canopy too, in which case I would use the 250 DE bulbs. I was considering using T5's only, but I think I'll most likely go with MH since I'd like to keep some clams too.
Thanks for welcoming me to the MARS forum!
Click to expand...

Caution with the DE bulb as well there coverage is not as much SE, and from what Ive gathered more DE users are going back to the SE's. Dots is right about designing it ultimately around what you want.But, and a big but! This hobby and what interests you is not set in stone. Better to have a lil too much than not enough.For example, the clam that you mentioned an interest in will soak up about as much light as you can throw at it, while the open brain but 2ft down the tank side might not be as tolerant, this can be remidied simply by moving the brain under a ledge or be partly shaded by another coral. But youd be foced to raise your higher demanding creatures if you scimped on lighting.

Same goes for the current in your tank, dont underestimate the natural strong currents of the reef! Just last week or so I was watching a documentary on the first filming of a shark's sexual reproduction. This can only happen while being fairly still and docile, but if a female shark doesnt have enough current passing through it's gills while staying still for the male, it will sufficate. So, they can only sexually reproduce under strong currents. The diver filming this could only do all he could to keep a hold onto a head of pocillopora(stony coral) as not to be blown away by the current and catch the footage(on land 75-100mph would probably be close to how hard this guy was holdin on). We will be hard pressed as hobbyists to ever hope to emulate that kind of current in our tanks, but one can try :)

-Justin
 
if you're truly looking to go the MH route, maybe think about doing a semi-open top canopy (for air flow-- with access doors in the front, for working in the tank, of course!) and using 3 or 4 L3 lumenarc reflectors (http://www.pacificgardensupply.com/products.asp?cat=2).

you can find people here on RC selling used ballasts for quite cheap. also, if you're really lucky, you can find someone selling the L3s for cheap, too. if not, the best price/site i've found that sells the L3s (both as reflector only AND as a retrofit kit) is www.reefexotics.com

personally, i'd buy the retrofit kit because you are starting out on the right foot-- you have the best reflector and very good ballasts/bulbs. the pricing, however, may be an issue (easily over $1k).

goodluck!
 
The primary critters I am interested in are LPS, anemones, and clams. Might try a SPS or two down the road. Regarding water motion, I am planning to try the Tunze "wavebox" and Tunze stream pumps for water motion. I've discussed these with Envision Acrylics and we are making some minor modifications to the aquarium to account for the wavebox, mainly 2" teeth on the overflows and a couple spare inches of aquarium height (26" versus 24").
Sometimes we wish we didn't have so many choices available! :)
 
You know this might be a good tank to apply what I was speaking about the other day on.........since its so long have different zones.....possibly have LPS on one side and amp up the lighting from left to right or conversly to have SPS, the LPS side would be a deeper, lower flow lagoonal type with all the sand and some rock islands.....and more and more rock toward the sps side where the flow gets more itense towards the top third of the tank and more intense lighting. most of your flow would be flowing across the top third of the tank perfect for the SPS and the LPS will be gently flowing down below.

If you designed the lighting to be modular and make it so you add or move lighting as you wanted, which could lend to an adaptable lighting scheme as your needs changed.

The main difference here with this ideais instead of sand in the front and rock stacked ala "fruitstand" with the rock stacked on the back glass, yours would have sand on the left with a few rock islands for LPS, brains...etc...and get more and more rock that raises the elevation towards the light from left to right rather than front to back.....the rocks would make a cliff with just enough distance from the glass for you to clean and have enough room to place lower light stuff like shroom into the valley betweeen the glass and rock face.....and SPS on the top next to the lighting on top of this "mountain of rock"........I think that would be cool to do with an 8' tank.....may save on the lighting cost too.....by not needing as many MHs so close together from left to right..........or a combination of 150's and 250's

I am a little jelous.....I like the design stage the best.....once its done I get a little bored with it......
 
Dots,
That is actually kind of what I was thinking of doing with it, like a reef zonation kind of thing. I think it is a really cool idea, too bad I didn't room for a 10' long tank, but that might be pushing my luck with my wife. Might be neat to actually have a couple pieces of rock sticking out of the water if I use one of those Tunze wavebox things. It will actually sit perpendicular to the wall so you will be able to see it from both long sides. As for lighting, it was suggested to me to try the modular thing, i.e. one 400watt MH, a couple 250's, and maybe some T5's at one end or something to that extent.
Speaking of Aqualife, they are who I am ordering my stand through, they seem to be a pretty good bunch of people and have a decent selection of corals.
 
with a tank that long and if you leave enough empty sand room you might have enough for a stingray.....they really need lots of room to roam.....

I think you will have fun enough scraping 8' of algae as is.....10' you may have pruned up hands before you get done scraping it.

Definatly buy as much light as you can.....you can always up the bulb color or move them up if you have too much light.......having to little all you can do is buy again......justin has a point about being able to upgrade and account for the future.....
 
In addtition they can't stock or offer every option there is....I am the first to say support you locally owned businesses, but Justin is correct....on bigger ticket items....if you are 100% sure you know what you are looking for online is the better way to go.....the LFS will get plenty of your money after that....you can bet on that.
 
I definitely hear you guys about buying online! I have been shopping around on some of the sites like Reefgeek, Premium Aquatics (who I have ordered from before), etc. When it comes to livestock though, I have always wanted to see the exact animal I am getting first-hand, and hence, yes the LFS will get plenty of money! :)
I definitely appreciate all the input I have been getting about how to do this right the first time since I have been out of the hobby for almost 10 years.
 
is there a dr. in the house? :p (just had to).
my tank is pretty much the same dimensions as yours and is viewable from 3 sides. sounds like you've got the water motion/flow covered :) i'd highly recommend the lumenarc reflectors and with 3 of the large ones running 250w MH's, that would provide enough coverage.

i've got my lumenarcs resting on "L" brackets within the open top canopy. running t5's and vho connected to "L" brackets too.

and welcome back to reefing :)
 
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