Mhucasey's SPS obsession

Are you talking about the green clown goby? If so, do you have any issues with them damaging SPS(they can make bald patches).

The link I posted works. It's this fish. A Mandarin would be overwhelmed by the high current in your tank.

lg-90041-Greenbanded-Goby.jpg
 
Matt. System is looking good!
Why not a few wrasses? I have 3 leopard wrasses. Totally non aggressive and reef safe. They forage constantly, all day long. I also have the coolest pipe fish who also forages all the time and also come out to the water column to feed on cyclops that I add.

i love border collies but they are so obsessive..
I saw this BC/basenji cross available in Vermont. Cool looking dog but probably a bit of a hyper psycho..
 
Matt. System is looking good!
Why not a few wrasses? I have 3 leopard wrasses. Totally non aggressive and reef safe. They forage constantly, all day long. I also have the coolest pipe fish who also forages all the time and also come out to the water column to feed on cyclops that I add.

i love border collies but they are so obsessive..
I saw this BC/basenji cross available in Vermont. Cool looking dog but probably a bit of a hyper psycho..
No sand or I'd be all over some wrasses:(
 
You couldn't hide a small bowl of sand in a corner?

Since there isn't really a "Back" to this tank and since all the rock is intentionally set up to have only minimal contact wit the bottom, I get amazing flow all around and through the rocks but nowhere to hide much of anything, unfortunately. I haven't ruled it out but i think it would be a mess. Maybe a custom bowl made to look like live rock....hrms....
 
The link I posted works. It's this fish. A Mandarin would be overwhelmed by the high current in your tank.

lg-90041-Greenbanded-Goby.jpg

When you first posted I clicked the link but it just brought me to the live aquaria main fish page. I did a google search for "GreenLine" gobies, and it had that as an alternate name for green clown gobies. The Green banded gobies are pretty sweet, i would love to add some.

I did get a good sized male mandarin and he is doing fine with the flow. If he has any issues i will move him to the other tank, one of the benefits of having the two tank system!
 
I need your BFC please Matt, just divide the number of fish you have by your display size in gallons after you divide the gallons by ten. :reading:
And i don't need any of your ROTM attitude over this, just give us the number. :fish1:
 
Update:
The SPS tank is now almost 100 percent clear of Cyano, the rocks are totally clear, finally!

I was seeing some tissue recession on a couple of pieces, more like slow thinning and wasting away rather than sloughing off. I tested everything I could and found no obvious culprits, everything is in the ranges I normally maintain. Only the Nitrate value was a bit low, 1-2ppm, so I have begin dosing that when needed to keep it from bottoming out. I have been feeding the fish heavily and feeding the corals after dark about three nights a week with oyster feast. A couple of SPS then experienced STN...Yikes!

I began to suspect that the design of the system, the low fish load(BFC=1.22), and the pellets were conspiring to strip the water too much and that there might be some Iron overdosing going on. Whether it was with manual dosing , GFO, or Zeovit, I've seen a correlation of high levels of Iron and STN while carbon dosing is going on. In fact, i believe that many cases of STN that are attributed to "Stripping nutrients too quick" are in fact iron overdoses, usually by adding too much GFO to a system while carbon dosing.

With the all in one pellets, as long as there is enough phosphate and Nitrate for the bacteria and pellets to consume, you will be fine. When there isn't, the flow through the reactor needs to be dialed back. I did just that, reducing flow through the reactor significantly. The corals stabilized but were still not taking off . I went ahead and performed two 30 gallon water changes, an the corals appear to be doing well now, with polyp extension on some that were not extending before and some new growth tips. Holding steady for now, though I may do one more water change if i see any slippage.
 
Very interesting about the iron..
Matt I forget, do you have a cheato fuge?
Also, where is your p right now? Or where was it before you reduced flow through the pellets?
I'm curious to see where n and p go with reduced flow..
 
No sand or I'd be all over some wrasses:(

Not all wrasses need sand to bed down. I have had 6-lines, and various flashers and fairy in bare bottom tanks with no issues. I have a fairy wrasse in my tank now, no problems at all.

Good call on the mandarin. They handle current well. I just got a small one for my tank.
 
Very interesting about the iron..
Matt I forget, do you have a cheato fuge?
Also, where is your p right now? Or where was it before you reduced flow through the pellets?
I'm curious to see where n and p go with reduced flow..

No Chaeto Fuge, my experience with Chaeto wasn't that great. I had some in my display refugia near the beginning of the original tank but it just got gummed up with stuff. Those ARID reactors are interesting, but I have confidence in the All in one pellets.

My Phosphate has been 0.00 on every test I have run. I use a Martini(Milwauke) colorimeter, I used to have a Hanna Green Egg but the Martini is very reproducible, and in my mind more accurate.

The tank has zero green algae growing except a light dusting on the glass over the course of 2-3 days. I put a rock that did have some green tufts of algae on it into the SPS reef and the algae went white and dissolved over the course of a week.

In my experience and research, problems with iron occur in a low nutrient environment with excess carbon from carbon dosing. In these conditions, Iron can trigger excessive growth of bacteria on the coral. These bacteria attack the tissue of the coral, especially the tissue that anchors the coral to the skeleton.

That is one reason that the recession happens from the bottom up. Its also why sometimes you can save the coral by fragging aggressively and sealing the edges with superglue. Even better, I've saved some with antibiotic dips.


Ill keep updating on my progress with the reduced flow, but it may be that until i can raise my BFC, my pellets just aren't needed as much. In the one-tank system, my BFC was as high as 3.1, but never lower than 2.5, so I always was feeding the pellets, and there was lots of phosphate for the iron to bind to and be skimmed out.
 
Not all wrasses need sand to bed down. I have had 6-lines, and various flashers and fairy in bare bottom tanks with no issues. I have a fairy wrasse in my tank now, no problems at all.

Good call on the mandarin. They handle current well. I just got a small one for my tank.
6-line....shudder...

The fairy and flasher wrasses are beautiful fish, but they tend to jump, and I have a very open topped tank - the only downside to open topped tanks in my mind. I had a fairy wrasse a while back that thought it was an Anthias, it would swim with the school and was very pretty. I though maybe I had beaten the jumping thing. Then i came home and he was on my couch.:hmm3:

The Mandarin is totally fine with the current and seems to be finding lots of snacks in the rocks:fish2:
 
Update:
The SPS tank is now almost 100 percent clear of Cyano, the rocks are totally clear, finally!

I was seeing some tissue recession


Good to hear about the cyano and not good to hear about the stn but I was very interested in your AIO experience.

I have stripped PO4 too fast twice now while still stuck in the chasing numbers game over here. This time I was finally able to drop it slowly adding an extremely small amount of GFO and NOPOX 5ml a day for 3 days (this is below maintenance dose for my 150 gallon). I turned my GFO off as soon as I was under .03.

I'm also running AIO in a recirculating reactor but so far I've been unable to control PO4 without some level of help. I'm up to 1L, adding a second 500ml a week ago. My nitrates are lower than I want, down below 1 now, but all my SPS look healthy. My BFC was 1.0 but I am bumping that up ASAP. :)

Do you think I'll need more than 1L of AIO for ~ 150 gallons of water?
 
Good to hear about the cyano and not good to hear about the stn but I was very interested in your AIO experience.

I have stripped PO4 too fast twice now while still stuck in the chasing numbers game over here. This time I was finally able to drop it slowly adding an extremely small amount of GFO and NOPOX 5ml a day for 3 days (this is below maintenance dose for my 150 gallon). I turned my GFO off as soon as I was under .03.

I'm also running AIO in a recirculating reactor but so far I've been unable to control PO4 without some level of help. I'm up to 1L, adding a second 500ml a week ago. My nitrates are lower than I want, down below 1 now, but all my SPS look healthy. My BFC was 1.0 but I am bumping that up ASAP. :)

Do you think I'll need more than 1L of AIO for ~ 150 gallons of water?
I think you shouldn't mix the GFO with the pellets, you just need more Nitrate input. I ran the AIO pellets without any issues for 7 or 8 months on the old system with no detectable phosphate - but only when the nitrate stayed about 2-3 ppm. I initially dosed nitrate but once the pellets created a balanced nutrient state, the number stayed there on its own.

As for the amount, i had 1 L on the old tank(~120gallons system volume) and maybe 1.5 on the new double tank(~195gallons). I don't personally think the amount makes as much of a difference when using a recirculating reactor.


Increasing the BFC will help the system function better, I'm sure. I mean, come on, its science!:twitch:
 
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