Microbubbles
- Thread starter t5Nitro
- Start date
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Over-under-over baffles in the sump to dissipate the bubbles before they reach the display. How is the return pump plumbed and are there any valves or fittings of any kind in either the suction or return plumbing? What size are the pipes? How is the overflow configured? How does it enter the sump, does it go under the water or crash down into it?
t5Nitro
New member
My drains are 1" and returns 3/4". They are the AGA overflow megaflow kit. Each overflow rate at 600 GPH so I have 1200 GPH going down to the sump with a mag 12 (1200 GPH) pushing it back up. The left side where I thought I was going to have a fuge (maybe skip that) has a shut off valve on it to lower the flow, but that just makes it blast harder on the right side. I was going to get a filter sock and put carbon in it on the right side anyway, that would help?
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Filter socks trap pods and beneficial critters. How is everything plumbed, do you have elbows, bends, valves etc that can cause restrictions? Is there anything at all on the suction side of the pump restricting the flow?
How big is the sump and what is your turnover? I imagine your velocity through the sump may be pretty high with a 12. How many baffles do you have and how are they configured?
How big is the sump and what is your turnover? I imagine your velocity through the sump may be pretty high with a 12. How many baffles do you have and how are they configured?
thorsky
New member
FYI, with 4 feet of head a MAG12 will push a bit over 700GPH. As AZDR said, sump flow may be a bit fast if it's not big. I'm having good luck with a bubble tower and have managed to avoid any problems with microbubbles so far.
This wouldn't happen to be a new tank would it? If so, I've had some microbubles with new tanks that disappeared over the course of a few days with no other changes. Similar to a skimmer break in, but I'm not sure what the mechanics behind it are.
This wouldn't happen to be a new tank would it? If so, I've had some microbubles with new tanks that disappeared over the course of a few days with no other changes. Similar to a skimmer break in, but I'm not sure what the mechanics behind it are.
t5Nitro
New member
Here is my plumbing. No baffles and now that there is water there will be no siliconing them in either.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1034928&perpage=25&pagenumber=2
Since then there are a 90 elbow on each drain.
The person at the store said go with a mag 24 even, that's faster yet! I only went with the 12.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1034928&perpage=25&pagenumber=2
Since then there are a 90 elbow on each drain.
The person at the store said go with a mag 24 even, that's faster yet! I only went with the 12.
thorsky
New member
Honestly, at this point I would put some serious thought into the sump design before going any further. Compartmentalizing the sump is going to make your life much easier down the road. You could run the tank sumpless for a couple days to let the silicone cure.
If you really don't want to do that, you could attempt to wedge acrylic baffles in place....or try bubble towers....or go with filter socks.
If you really don't want to do that, you could attempt to wedge acrylic baffles in place....or try bubble towers....or go with filter socks.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
I see lots of problems.
Number one is get rid of the check valve ASAP. Its a waste of money and will fail on you when you least expect it and are counting on it. Trust me it will fail and sooner than later. Check valves have no place in aquariums as they are very similar to wastewater treatment systems where thya also fail, I know from lots and lots of experience!
Next, get rid of the tee in the return. It is causing a flow restriction and turbulence which is not good, you want laminar flow not turbulent flow.
Plumb both overflows to the far end of the sump as far away from the return as possible and add a minimum of three baffles, it will never work without baffles especially with one of the overflows right next to the pumps suction.
I can't get Photobucket to work right now or I would show some pics of my sump when I constructed it and after it was in use.
Number one is get rid of the check valve ASAP. Its a waste of money and will fail on you when you least expect it and are counting on it. Trust me it will fail and sooner than later. Check valves have no place in aquariums as they are very similar to wastewater treatment systems where thya also fail, I know from lots and lots of experience!
Next, get rid of the tee in the return. It is causing a flow restriction and turbulence which is not good, you want laminar flow not turbulent flow.
Plumb both overflows to the far end of the sump as far away from the return as possible and add a minimum of three baffles, it will never work without baffles especially with one of the overflows right next to the pumps suction.
I can't get Photobucket to work right now or I would show some pics of my sump when I constructed it and after it was in use.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Way way too much flow in the sump especially without baffles.
You need to stop right now and redo your mistakes before you go any further, it wil only get harder to correct in the future. Its not too late. You are asking for advice and have gotten several good suggestions from several different people.
Here is the sump during construction. It has a fuge on one end that overflows into the center skimmer section and three baffles between the skimmer and return section. No bubbles at all get to the return pump.
This was the first week or two in operation. The sponges were just to help clear the milky water and trap the startup microbubbles. They were removed after a few more weeks and have never been used since.
As you can see everything is happy.
You need to stop right now and redo your mistakes before you go any further, it wil only get harder to correct in the future. Its not too late. You are asking for advice and have gotten several good suggestions from several different people.
Here is the sump during construction. It has a fuge on one end that overflows into the center skimmer section and three baffles between the skimmer and return section. No bubbles at all get to the return pump.
This was the first week or two in operation. The sponges were just to help clear the milky water and trap the startup microbubbles. They were removed after a few more weeks and have never been used since.
As you can see everything is happy.
I agree with AZDesertRat. You are still in time to fix your mistakes. Once you have that tank up and running you will have a really hard time redoing those things.
I have re done my drain plumbing twice with the tank running and I still haven't been able to get it right with the microbubbles.
I have re done my drain plumbing twice with the tank running and I still haven't been able to get it right with the microbubbles.
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