Middle support broken!

[cloudancer]

I'd also like to avoid another RC "heated discussion", but don't want to just leave bad info sitting. If you are interested in a real answer to the question, do some research (ie talk to tank builders, look up material/bond strengths, look at pictures of custom tanks)... the facts are out there.

If you do try Kelly's experiment... only take the frame off the top, the one on the bottom is to absorb the imperfections of the stand and avoid point loads. I suppose you could do it with a foam pad under the tank, but that's another discussion to go along with DSBs, tank size for tangs, skimmer designs and politics :rollface:

 

[RandyStacyE]

No sweat cloudancer, good advice.

You know what would happen if izau3138 spoke to the tank manufacturers don't you? They will make it crystal clear that if he does not replace the frame ... anything can happen. They will not, under any circumstances, suggest removing, attempt repairing or modifying ANY of their products.

I’m not one to follow the straight and narrow just because someone said so and I wouldn’t expect everyone to either (unless I was the manufacturer and/or financially responsible for the outcome). Just an example … Euro-Reef from what I understand, will void your warranty if any modification is made what so ever. Will the mod improve the skimmer’s performance, YES. See what I mean? It’s just good/safe business practice.

I’m the last person that would say “you can’t do that, it will not work” or “you have to do it this way”. All I can say is “I did it this way 5 years ago and not one flaw to this day”. Same scenario as azmorpheus is saying, he trusts caulk and its adhesion to the glass to maintain the structural integrity of the tank. Neither method nor any other ‘repair’ fits the straight and narrow. Who knows, maybe not even replacing the frame yourself meets the “straight and narrow” unless performed by a licensed, certified, bonded and insured representative of the manufacturer. Ok, that’s a little overboard, but you know what I mean.

 

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8710014#post8710014 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RandyStacyE
Here’s the link I promised to the plastic frames:
Still I trust the plastic frame mo...d its much cheaper than eurobracing the tank.

 

[syrinx]

well sports fans here is the 411 from a few dozen tank brace/frame replacements. First of a new top with brace retails for around 20 bucks- no big deal to replace. I have seen people use frameless tanks- as well as people use aga tanks with the frame removed. It is funny how even a 20 long with its low pressure can result in a 30 inch wide waterfall out of the bottom seam. Funnier still to watch the guy realise that a bucket would catch about 1/3 or this stream width wise! The center brace came about in the mid eighties, when they went to thinner glass. It was not ment to be a super brace- only enough to make up for the slightly thinner glass. Plastic is the logical choice for its impact resistance. It is a simple job to carefully cut out the old rim with a razorknife and slap on a new one. First time maybe a hour or so- after a few its 20 minutes- and most of it cleanup.

 

[cloudancer]

Randy,
My reference was to talk to a tank builder about the structural strength of silicon/glass bonds, sorry about the confusion.... I just re-read it and realized it was about as clear as mud .

No doubt you are correct on talking to All-glass about fixing their tanks. Working for a big company I'm very familiar with the "advice" that gets handed out for liability reasons.

I think patching/replacing the brace is probably more than adequate here, but replacing it is easy too.

 

[coralnut99]

fwiw, This past summer, my nephew got out f the hobby and I bought his old 125. This tank actually had the mfg date on an inspection sticker under it. The tank was 15 years old. The tank was braceless, and the trim was simply mitered sections of plastic trim to support glass canopies, etc. Notice I said braceless, and that it was made that way. What's the catch? It was made with 1/2" glass all around. This tank weighed a ton and a half. My new 125's are like all other AGA 125's, with 3-sectioned top plastic trim all around, molded in one piece. I haven't taken a caliper to the glass, but believe me, it's not 1/2". These were considerably lighter than that old braceless 125. In my mind, AGA and others have gone to thinner glass to cut shipping and mfg. cost, and made the upper trim play a much bigger role in preserving the tank's integrity. Some time ago, I think the argument that tank trim was simply for safety, and a place to support canopies, etc. was valid. I don't think that's tha case anymore with tanks made of thinner glass. Just my 2 bits.

I think if you contact AGA, they can get you a replacement upper trim piece.

The alternative is to take the brace off completely, drain the tank and install eurobracing.

 

[wolfpackgrl]

replacement frame

replacement frame

http://www.glasscages.com/?sAction=ViewCat&lCatID=43

Glass cages sells the frames, looks like one for a 55gallon would be about $10.

 

[hahnmeister]

Rich is correct 100%. The plastic frames do very little to hold the tank together. Recently I had to repair a leak in a 40B... so I removed the plastic frame all together and resealed it. Then I filled it up while the tank was frameless. No problem, and the tank itself was supported with only two 3.5"x3.5"x6" blocks at either end of the tank.

The reasons for plastic frames are 'other'. The only structural reason being if the tank is long enough to need a cross-brace to prevent bowing. But look at many tanks made in the EU... no plastic frame at all... just glass and silicone (and were talking some large tanks here, like 10' long and 3' high ones). The parimeter plastic on the bottom elevates the bottom panel of glass, which on many AGA tanks is tempered. This lets the bottom panel sit in a suspension which minimizes the effects of a point impact on the glass (it can 'bounce' to absorb impact better). It simply allows AGA to get away with using thinner glass. The top frame matches this, and does come in handy for holding cover glass in place. The frames on alot of AGA tanks also allows them to get away w/o polishing the edges. Many AGA tanks have only ground edges... no bevel or polish which is more expensive. The plastic covers this up.

Dont get me wrong though, Oceanic, owned by AGA, can do 'brick' style and euro-braced glass&silicone only tanks (as does Aquarium obsessed, Glass Cages, and Miracles in Glass).

Years ago, I also had a 20" cube, made of some 20" plate glass pieces I found in my folk's basement. It was only 1/4", but the edges were all nice and beveled. Using Silicone alone, I made a 20" cube tank, and it worked great, no frame and only 1/4" plate. I even put it in a china-cabinet/ built-in that was only 16" deep... meaning 4" of the tank hung out over the ledge. That tank held up fine. Who knows about the glass... maybe is was tempered and thats why it didnt crack, but the Silicone was fine... not bad considering only 1/4" thick seams, no frame or bracing, and 20" high. The tank also wasnt even built right, since all of the pieces were 20"x20"... I placed the sides on the bottom, but the front and back pieces had to be siliconed to the front and back, not on top of the bottom piece like usual. I think many of you would gawk if you saw it... I even had lava-rocks piled up against the back wall up to the surface.