Mike's 360G Dream House, Dream Tank, Dream Box

High and low float switches for the ATO container. There's also a float valve and PMUP install. I will have an RODI line run from the shed to the ATO container. I will be installing a solenoid to automatically shut off the RODI when full. The lower switch will send me a text when the water gets low. Then I can go into the Apex and turn it on, the high switch will trip the solenoid, turn off the RODI and text me so I can manually turn a valve to shut off the line completely. The float valve will be an emergency. There will also be another emergency shut off I haven't installed yet. I'll take a pic once that is setup. I do not feel comfortable letting the Apex automatically fill the ATO container.

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High and low float switches for the sump. One of the float switch bracket broke so I'll have to fix that. I may switch to the Neptune ATK once that becomes available. I can't get the image to flip correctly. :(

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Float valve for the ATO line going into the sump.

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Probes installed.

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LED lights for the stand

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LED lights installed in the stand
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Magnetic switches installed on every right door to turn automatically turn on the LED lights in the stand,sump,ato container and dosing containers.

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Apex panel nearly complete. Waiting to finish the plumbing and MP40 driver holders to arrive before mounting to the panel. I left a space open between the WXM module and breakout box for the FMM module I plan to get in the future. I'll begin programming the Apex in Fusion.

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Was able to hide a lot of the cords. I'll have to buy some cord raceways to mount to the back of the apex panel. Once I mount the four mp40s, two tunzes 6255 and vortech battery back up, I'll have a ton more cords and power adapters I need to manage.

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Installed a light, the RODI unit, booster pump, pressure switch and auto flush in the shed. Waiting on a EB8 and PM2 to arrive. What do you guys do with the probes in the SW container? Do you just let it dangle at the bottom of the tank? I plan to install a temp probe and salinity probe. Waiting on more RO lines to come in so I can run lines from the intake to the RODI unit and the RO waste line to the drains. BRS shipping department has been seeing my name pretty often, LOL. I will also run an RO line into the house to the ATO container.


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Some non reef related news. I got word that the exhaust I've been waiting weeks for will be arriving Tuesday!!! :dance: The month of May is turning out to be a great month, getting a lot of new toys. Not so great on the wallet, there's a big burning hole in it. :spin2:
 
Hey Mike regarding the salinity probe I used it and I have to tell u they are not that accurate if u relied on it to mix your salt u asking for trouble. Monitor the salinity in the tank may be a better task for it. With my system the apex only monitor temp, salinity, pH but I don't use it to control. For temp I use 2 ranco controller heat/cool. With my cal reactor I use Alan le regulator and I dial it so it never turn on and off the apex only shut down co2 when it pass 6.5 ph in reactor. Apex is a great controller however it can fail and if u relied on it to control your tank then crash can happened.

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That's a very nice looking setup! This is going to look great I'm sure.

Thank you!

Hey Mike regarding the salinity probe I used it and I have to tell u they are not that accurate if u relied on it to mix your salt u asking for trouble. Monitor the salinity in the tank may be a better task for it. With my system the apex only monitor temp, salinity, pH but I don't use it to control. For temp I use 2 ranco controller heat/cool. With my cal reactor I use Alan le regulator and I dial it so it never turn on and off the apex only shut down co2 when it pass 6.5 ph in reactor. Apex is a great controller however it can fail and if u relied on it to control your tank then crash can happened.

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The probes going into the SW container will not be used to control salinity or anything like that, its more for a quick glance for info. Figure I'll just add them since I needed a PM2 out there to add a breakout box for float switches. Salinity will still be manually checked before WC along with other parameters. I always have another thermometer in the DT and SE container to cross check.
 
Been a little busy but was able to get some stuff done. I am hoping to get the tank wet by the end of the week.


I wasn't planning on building a base for the shed but it being made out of plastic and the floor it's resting on has a slope to a drain, it was flexing like crazy. Quick trip to Home Depot and we have a base.

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I have quite a few extension cords behind the tank because a lot of the cords wasn't long enough to reach the 8-9 ft to the Apex panel so I bought these. It's made out of silicone and creates a water tight seal between the two cords. These are used for outdoor application.

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This outlet sits directly behind the tank and right under a return line. I wasn't comfortable leaving it as is so I installed a outdoor weather proof outlet.

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KHG and leak dectector in place. The leak detector will cut off the RODI water supply to the ATO container if it senses a leak. I will have a solenoid in place to shut off the water when the high level float switch gets triggered. If the solenoid is stuck on, the float valve should cut off the water. If the float valve fails, this leak detector is my last line of defense to prevent a flood.

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Here is what the Apex panel looks like.

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Here is what the back of the Apex panel looks like. A good majority of the cords hidden away. I hate cords and it was a task hiding all the cords that comes with having a large tank.

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I played around with the rocks and this was the scape I came up with. My last tank, I went with three pillars and minimal rock. I'm a fish guys first and all the fishes in my previous 240G had literally no where to sleep. The smaller fishes were able to fit into some of the small crevices but my larger tangs had no where to sleep. There also wasn't much space for corals. So the focus this time around was to make a lot of caves, crevices for the larger fish to sleep and more space for tons of SPS corals.

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Love the apex panel I wish I have the time to install my apex better. Is the blue line the edge off the tank? The rock scape look pretty close to the glass
 
Love the apex panel I wish I have the time to install my apex better. Is the blue line the edge off the tank? The rock scape look pretty close to the glass

There is about 4-5" of space between the glass and rock. I will probably scoot the rocks in a bit when I place them in the tank.

Well, ya... There's no way I'm passing this thread up. Subscribed

Thanks for joining!

Great build.

Question! Who built your stand?

Thanks

Thank you! Crystal Dynamics built the tank and stand. Trent said it was his first stand with the frosted glass doors. I think he did a great job. It has soft closing doors, magnetic push release and removable hinges. Overall build quality is good. The silicone work on the tank itself is also good. Not a bubble or air pocket anywhere to be found. I would say Crystal Dynamics does better quality than Leemars as I've had two Leemars tank and there was always bubbles in the silicone.

Great stuff. I can't wait to hear feedback on the kh guardian.

Thank you, if you do a google search for it, there is a massive thread/review of it else where.

This is a very well thought out build. Looking forward to seeing this wet in action.

Thank you, months of planning went into this build so I am happy to see it come to fruition.
 
Mike's 360G Dream House, Dream Tank, Dream Box

Couple of questions, if you don't mind:
1. What is your Apex panel material?
2. Can I see more pictures and description of your mixing station? I'm about to redo mine and looking for ideas.
3. What tablet are you using for Fusion? I was going to order a basic Amazon Fire for mine.
 
Couple of questions, if you don't mind:
1. What is your Apex panel material?
2. Can I see more pictures and description of your mixing station? I'm about to redo mine and looking for ideas.
3. What tablet are you using for Fusion? I was going to order a basic Amazon Fire for mine.

Hey,

Not a problem,

1. The Apex panel is just plywood that has been sanded and stained. The panel is lifted away from the stand to run wires to the side, there is also a cut out in the bottom middle of the panel to run wires underneath. I did not want to drill any holes into the wood as I planned to mount things like power adapters behind the panel.

2. Mixing station is two 75G tanks and the pump is a panworld 50PX-X - 1110 GPH. All 1" plumbing and fittings. I'll get some pics when there is still daylight out. If you have any questions, please let me know.

3. I am using a Microsoft Surface (windows tablet). I chose this instead of a ipad or kindle so I can plug my ATI hybrid PM to the tablet and make a light schedule for it.
 
Neptune ATK came in today.

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I had to re-orientate the optical eyes and float valve so it can better fit in my sump. The wires for the optical eyes were just long enough so I can it over to the Apex panel where the FMM is located. Ideally, I would like to have enough slack so that the wires can run along the floor and out of sight until it reach the FMM but it's currently shooting straight across the back of the sump and the space between the dosing containers and Apex panel has two wires in the air. Not ideal but I don't want to cut into the wires to extend it.

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A box full of socks. It wasn't easy finding socks that fit the Dreambox.

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Pics aren't working for me but where did you find socks that fit? Please send me info as I do not want to buy socks @$16/ ea ever again.


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Couple of questions, if you don't mind:
1. What is your Apex panel material?
2. Can I see more pictures and description of your mixing station? I'm about to redo mine and looking for ideas.
3. What tablet are you using for Fusion? I was going to order a basic Amazon Fire for mine.

Here a couple pics of the SW mixing station. The shed is located on the side of the house so it's pretty narrow there so I couldn't get a full shot.

Just two 75G tanks run by a panworld pump. Will be adding float switches to both RODI and SW tank to shut off pumps when water is low.

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6 Stage BRS water saver, booster pump, pressure switch, auto flush, EB8, PM2, break out box and HM TDS sensors for water in, water after RO membranes, water after first DI canister and water after second DI canister.

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Pics aren't working for me but where did you find socks that fit? Please send me info as I do not want to buy socks @$16/ ea ever again.


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My buddy got them for me. All the ones I ordered didn't fit but he came thru for me. PM me if you're interested, I'll see if he can get anymore.
 
99% of the plumbing done, just need to glue the drains and plumbing is done. Rock is in the tank and sand will go in tomorrow after the drains are done. I have to remove the overflow box to finish up the drains so I don't want to be stepping in sand. Once that is done, will do a leak test with RODI water. I'm currently making water now in the shed, I can store 150 gallons of water. If all goes well, I'll add salt to the sump to bring the salinity up and get the cycle going.

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