Mike's 360G Dream House, Dream Tank, Dream Box

Looking great Mike!! I'm excited for you and can't wait to see this all come together soon!

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This is very nice and well thought out. I can't wait to see how it looks with water, sand, and rock! You're doing a great job!
 
Looking great Mike!! I'm excited for you and can't wait to see this all come together soon!

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Thanks Ryan, everything is coming along nicely.

This is very nice and well thought out. I can't wait to see how it looks with water, sand, and rock! You're doing a great job!


Thanks Jim, I love it when a plan comes together. Especially when it involved months of planning. :beer:
 
We have water!

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The water making saga to be continued.

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I love this cam lever, wish I found out about it in my previous builds. Makes storing or changing out the hose much easier. Getting all the water out of the hose is much easier when you can quickly discount it from the plumbing.

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So I have some good news and bad news. I'll start with the good. I got up this morning (more like noon) and filled up the tank full along with the sump. Ran the tank and checked for leaks, a couple minor leaks from the unions which I took care of right away. I fired up the skimmer and it started producing a good foam right away even with the pump on the lowest setting and pipe wide open. The water is a nasty yellow/green and stinks. The pukani rock is dirrrrrtay. I checked the ammonia and got a good solid green reading via API test. I threw in 5 bottles of bio-spira and I was on cloud 9. Today was the day the cycle begins!

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Now on to the bad news.

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I know some of the pics are hard to see. The tank was full and running for a full day. Around 10pm while working on the tank, I noticed some bubbles in the eurobrace silicone which I did not remember seeing before. This made me check all the silicone. The silicone on the eurobrace that runs 8ft from side to side of the tank started separating from the side panes. The right side front and rear eurobrace had a couple bubbles in them. When I went to inspect the left side, the eurobrace completely separated from the side panes. Needless to say, this made me extremely nervous and thankfully, I had the builders cell. I sent him a text with pictures and he told me to partially drain the tank and he will come over tomorrow morning to inspect. Hopefully he can fix it with the tank in place, otherwise he will have to take the tank back to his shop.

I went from cloud 9 to rock bottom in a day. I just dumped in a box and half of fritz rpm salt, 5 bottles of bio-spira. That's a lot of money down the drain literally. Not to mention all the wasted rodi and rodi waste water down the drain. The rodi also burned thru half a canister of DI resin. I'm so bummed, this build has officially come to a screeching halt. There are still some little things I can do in the shed and under the tank but the tank itself will not be filled for another 3-4 weeks. Apparently that is how long the silicone needs to fully cure and the eurobrace was freshly put in place before tank delivery.
 
Oh nooo, that's bad news man. I really hope he can remedy this situation for you. Ime this will require a complete strip down and reseal :(

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I feel so bad for you. I can't imagine what you must be going through after all you have done to the point of having water in the tank and the start of the cycle. I truly hope you are able to get this resolved soon. On a good note though, I'm glad you caught this now instead of later.
 
Oh nooo, that's bad news man. I really hope he can remedy this situation for you. Ime this will require a complete strip down and reseal :(

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Yeah it sucks. It's only affecting the 8ft eurobrace so the builder is coming today in the morning to inspect and possibly repair. The seams holding the panes together still looks good so hopefully it can be repaired on the spot. I don't feel like removing 200+ pounds of rock and sand (dry weight), gotta weigh a lot more now that it's wet.

I feel so bad for you. I can't imagine what you must be going through after all you have done to the point of having water in the tank and the start of the cycle. I truly hope you are able to get this resolved soon. On a good note though, I'm glad you caught this now instead of later.

It was a downer for sure Jim but gotta keep going. I am hoping the builder can fix the problem when he comes and not need to remove the tank. I am very glad I caught this sooner than later when there is live stock in the tank or worse, having the tank fail.
 
While the tank sits partially empty, I went on to work on some things in the shed. The shed is about 45 ft away from the tank so I had to order two 30 ft aquabus extension cables. This means the aquabus connection will be sitting outside. There is a lot of moisture in the air here at night living so close to the beach so I ghetto rigged this weather proof box out of tupperware for the aquabus connection. Dremeled the corners to fit the cable and then caulked it to seal it off.

I also pinned all the rodi lines to the house for a cleaner look. I installed a pmup into the RODI tank along with a float switch to shut off the pmup and text me when the water is low. Also installed a magnetic switch to have the lights turn on when I open the right door of the shed. The left door has pins on the top and bottom to lock down the door and I would always have to undo the pins to get the door open and then turn on the lights. It was a hassle.

Under the tank, I installed a neptune solenoid to cut off water from the RODI PMUP. I forgot to take a pic of that. I'll update this thread after the builder sees what he can do about the eurobracing.

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hopefully you got a favorable response the the manufacturer but better to find it now than 6 months from now.
 
While the tank sits partially empty, I went on to work on some things in the shed. The shed is about 45 ft away from the tank so I had to order two 30 ft aquabus extension cables. This means the aquabus connection will be sitting outside. There is a lot of moisture in the air here at night living so close to the beach so I ghetto rigged this weather proof box out of tupperware for the aquabus connection. Dremeled the corners to fit the cable and then caulked it to seal it off.



I also pinned all the rodi lines to the house for a cleaner look. I installed a pmup into the RODI tank along with a float switch to shut off the pmup and text me when the water is low. Also installed a magnetic switch to have the lights turn on when I open the right door of the shed. The left door has pins on the top and bottom to lock down the door and I would always have to undo the pins to get the door open and then turn on the lights. It was a hassle.



Under the tank, I installed a neptune solenoid to cut off water from the RODI PMUP. I forgot to take a pic of that. I'll update this thread after the builder sees what he can do about the eurobracing.



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Nice work. I wish I had told you about the site that makes up to 200' Aquabus cables though. Your way will be perfectly fine.
Do you use the external pump to move the fresh water into the Saltwater container? Or does it provide mixing as well? That's the part I'm a bit confused about. Mine is still pretty manual. I have a mixing pump that runs a few minutes each day, but that's about it.
 
hopefully you got a favorable response the the manufacturer but better to find it now than 6 months from now.

Yes, I am glad to find this problem now then have the tank fail at a later time. The builder came over this morning to redo the bracing.

Nice work. I wish I had told you about the site that makes up to 200' Aquabus cables though. Your way will be perfectly fine.
Do you use the external pump to move the fresh water into the Saltwater container? Or does it provide mixing as well? That's the part I'm a bit confused about. Mine is still pretty manual. I have a mixing pump that runs a few minutes each day, but that's about it.

That would have been nice to know! The external pump moves fresh water to the SW container. It will also be used for mixing and I'll have the apex turn it on for a few minutes each day when there is SW in there. I'll be adding a float switch in the SW container also to shut the pump off if water gets too low.
 
Today after the builder left, I completely drained the tank. I need to wait 3-4 weeks for the adhesive to cure. No point in leaving the tank partially filled as the water was getting more foul everyday. The builder will come back to clean up all the adhesive once it dries a little bit making it easier to clean up.

On Sunday, I tested the water and it read 1ppm of ammonia, that is when I tossed in five bottles of bio-spira. I drained the tank but left water in the sump. I have the skimmer, reactor pump and return pump running so water does not get stagnate. The return pump is just running through the UV sterilizer. I tested the sump water and it had a reading of .50ppm ammonia and 20ppm nitrate, little cycle happening in the sump? I threw in several pieces of pukani rock into the sump.

So I have a GHL doser 2 master and slave. I read that the doser can do 1L/hr. I am thinking about using the slave which has four pumps to do my AWC instead of buying a neptune DOS. I already have a line running from the SW container back into the house. I just need to run a line out to the drain for SW out and calibrate the doser. Anyone use the GHL doser for AWC?

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Good news it's been addressed, and news.. 3-4 weeks is foreverrrrrr... can you cycle your Dt rock in a barrel in the meantime?

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