Mike's Anemone Tank Build

[MikeInToronto]

I was out of the hobby for a while then in 2010 I thought I would start a 60g cube tank with an anemone as the centrepiece. After pricing tanks I thought it was too expensive and bought a 75g standard instead. Well that didn't make me very happy so I've decided to dismantle that tank and start up a cube. I did the 75 all wrong anyway.

Equipment:
Marineland 60 gallon Cube (2x2x2') w/ built-in overflow
Custom stand
2x Vortech MP10w ES
Tunze Silence Water Pump - 1073.020
250W 20K XM
Galaxy Ballast
Lumenbright Pendant
6" Sugar Sand bed
24" Sump (not sure if I want 15 or 20g H
SWC Xtreme 150 BMK Protein Skimmer
BRS GFO Reactor

Livestock:
1x Blackfoot Clown
1x LTA
Polyps and mushrooms

I'm sure I missed something.

Anyway, I got started on the stand. I didn't realise how cheap it would be to make this thing. If you exclude the price of screws, the only cost is four 2x4's, so about $8 total. I did mess up so I needed 1 extra 2x4. Of course, my cordless drill broke a while back so I needed a new one, but I won't include that as a cost. The screws cost me about $20 but that's because I got boxes of them. Oh, and I needed a long bit to drill through the 2x4's so another $10.

Here is all the stuff. One of the pieces is missing in the pic. Here I have:
4x 24" pieces
4x 21" pieces
4x 30" pieces (which I later replaced with 23" pieces)
Some screws

The result will be a frame that is 24x24x30". The tank is just under 24" but the frame of the tank is exactly 24". I intend to skin the frame and I want it to "hug" the tank so I can hide the 6" sand bed.

I had these brace things sitting around so I used them to make the frame square.

This is the first frame done.

And this is both done.

And this is the "finished" frame.

So obviously it needs more to keep it from collapsing. I haven't decided if I want to cross brace the bottom and top or if I will depend on the skin to keep things from torquing. I'm going to add a floor to this stand that rests on the frame (not under it) but I think I will add a sheet 2x2' to the top of the stand, maybe just 1/4" thick.

If anyone tells me I need to drill more holes through the top (or bottom) of the frame into the "legs" of the stand, forget about it. The ones I put already will give me nightmares for weeks!

Thanks for looking. I hope I can keep this updated for anyone who follows it.

 

[MikeInToronto]

This is the anemone I'm adding.

 

[msudawgs56]

Nice anemone! Watching your build!

 

[rysher]

tagging along

 

[cgauer5]

I am really interested in your build, I am doing basically the same thing with a 45 gallon cube.

 

[BonsaiNut]

(1) Use a plywood skin for the cross-bracing. Easy and frees up space in your stand.

(2) I would add at least one 2x4 cross piece to the top and bottom to provide center support. 24" on center framing is pretty weak for an aquarium stand. However I always use too much wood in my stands

(3) Treat all exposed wood surfaces with a clear epoxy sealant. If you skin your tank on the top you are basically saying you will have a low box your tank will sit in - and it is going to get wet no matter what you do. The interior of the stand will get wet and humid as a matter of course; if you seal with epoxy you'll have a fingernail polish surface that will repel water and be easy to clean.

(4) If possible, dry fit your plumbing, drains, electrical, sump, etc, before you skin the stand. It is a hassle to do later on when you have limited access.

(5) If you want full access to the interior of your stand, consider a removable panel on the front of the stand held on by magnets, versus a framed door.

 

[BonsaiNut]

One other thing. Because your tank isn't very large, I would consider mounting it on locking casters. It is amazing how often you want to move a tank for a variety of reasons. I had a similar setup (120 gallon tank) and had recessed casters on the bottom, and if I needed to move it I would drain half the water out and carefully roll it out of the way. Worked perfectly through several moves between apartments, as well as when I needed to access the wall behind the tank, or the floor beneath it (like in the case of a bad spill LOL).

 

[MikeInToronto]

Thanks for the advice.

I added a little bit of bracing to the tank. I put corner braces on the top and bottom frames and I put corners on the top back and front (the sides will be supported with the skin when I put that on). I screwed and glued all the braces except the front ones; I just screwed these. I don't know how the braces on the front will affect accessibility so I made it so that I could remove them easily. I was just concerned about torque.

I'm sure none of that made sense but I have pics.

I will paint the inside as you suggested with an epoxy sealant. Right now the tank is sturdy. I tried twisting it and it doesn't budge with the bracing on.

I'm going to see how big of a door I can find for the tank. I don't mind a removable face but I think I'd prefer a door.

Now the caster thing scares me a bit. It would mean a lot more attention to structure but I will look into it. It's a good idea!

 

[MikeInToronto]

Thanks for the compliments!

 

[fragtrader]

This is the anemone I'm adding.

macrodactyla doreensis, correct?

 

[MikeInToronto]

macrodactyla doreensis, correct?

Yes, it is.

 

[hypnoj]

I'm in the process of a build similar to this, and the casters idea is a good one. I've had casters on all of my previous builds and they worked well. Regardless, following!

 

[jake levi]

Build

Build

Great looking stand Mike, very well done. Is it going to house all of your plumbing? I am playing with configurations myself right now. I like what you have here, I am first looking at ones for a pair of Tomato Clowns. And their anemone.

 

[Rowdeus]

Does this kind split often?

 

[MikeInToronto]

Great looking stand Mike, very well done. Is it going to house all of your plumbing? I am playing with configurations myself right now. I like what you have here, I am first looking at ones for a pair of Tomato Clowns. And their anemone.

Thanks! There isn't much to the plumbing, just a 1" drain and a 3/4" return, the 24" tank, containing the return pump, heater, GFO reactor, and the skimmer which is 21" high but since I don't have it yet, makes me nervous it won't fit well (but I know it will).

I think I will keep one side with the removable panel as suggested because of the way I want to orient the sump. I will put up drawings soon to get input although I think I'm pretty set.

Does this kind split often?

No, it doesn't split. It gets bigger and bigger. It's about 10-12" across right now so it's pretty big already.

 

[Samcro]

nice purple lta . i got a monster one myself in my nano for my snowcasso's mine is about 10" and i am gonna remove it soon and add a different nem like a flame tip or something.

 

[davocean]

Looks good, I like the corner braces you added.
The ply skin will add shear strength and tie everything all together.
I use alot of wood glue in my builds, actually stronger than nails.
Those screws are good, but the gold coated drywall screws hold up just as well, and cheaper, thoughts for others or next time.
That light may be a tad bright for an LTA, so I'd put it where it may have a ledge to pull in/out as needed.

 

[MikeInToronto]

Thanks all.

The anemone is already under this light. It is too bright, IMO as well, but it seems to have adjusted. I was considering downgrading but now that the anemone has adjusted and looking good, I don't want to change anything. LTAs aren't that difficult to keep but IME a change as significant as lighting could potentially affect the health, and at the very least the appearance, of an anemone.

I used to keep bubble-tips under 400W Iwasaki MH in a 20" deep tank (not accounting for the depth of sand). THAT was too much, lol, but they liked it.

 

[jake levi]

Mike are you going to include a scrubber?

I will probably stay with 75s as I want other soft corrals in there also and can have darker areas as well . I think you are going to have a great looking cube.

 

[MikeInToronto]

Mike are you going to include a scrubber?

I will probably stay with 75s as I want other soft corrals in there also and can have darker areas as well . I think you are going to have a great looking cube.

Thanks!

No scrubber here.
Umm, did you mean an algal turf scrubber or one of those algae scrubbers? Neither, btw. lol.