MJ prop mod invades GIRS
- Thread starter Covey
- Start date
Covey
New member
Here is the magnet mounts I am going to build at some point.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=802745
Nice and clean and cheap.
Hey Bob is Billy didn't buy up all the props I am going to mod you maxi tommorrow.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=802745
Nice and clean and cheap.
Hey Bob is Billy didn't buy up all the props I am going to mod you maxi tommorrow.
Covey
New member
I made my second mod yesterday. It looks sweet but I am unable to post pics since the internet in mybuilding is down(posting from the library).
I took it up to Aquatic eviroments and showed it off to those guys. They were impressed. We gave the $1000 dollar eel a good blasting.
Anyway I post some pics when I get MY internet back
I took it up to Aquatic eviroments and showed it off to those guys. They were impressed. We gave the $1000 dollar eel a good blasting.
Anyway I post some pics when I get MY internet back
mthedude
New member
Can someone detail the order in which parts go on the shaft, and which peices glue to which pieces. I've got the basic scheme of the whole thing and I've got the parts list, I'm going to be modding a MJ1200 and using the stainless steel shaft. All the threads just give pics but no step by step, does anyone have the step by step?
Covey
New member
1)Remove stock impeller.
2)Remove red+black endcaps.
3)Remove white impeller.
4)Add new propeller to a piece of rigid airline.
5)Fiqure out how long everything needs to be. Will vary from project to project. Everyone PVC are generally different lengths.
6)Cut the rigid airline to the size needed.
7)Cut a piece of fexible airline to attach the magnet to the propeller.
8)Cut your SS shaft to the sized needed
9)Assemby
Its not hard you just have to work the lengths of eveerything for yourself.
2)Remove red+black endcaps.
3)Remove white impeller.
4)Add new propeller to a piece of rigid airline.
5)Fiqure out how long everything needs to be. Will vary from project to project. Everyone PVC are generally different lengths.
6)Cut the rigid airline to the size needed.
7)Cut a piece of fexible airline to attach the magnet to the propeller.
8)Cut your SS shaft to the sized needed
9)Assemby
Its not hard you just have to work the lengths of eveerything for yourself.
bgreenlee
Member
Well here is what I am doing with the aquaclear 802's.
I am using a nylon bushing from Home Depot for the coupling for the prop and rotor. It is a 3/8"x1" bushing. I drill all the way through with a 3/16" bit, and then set a depth stop to drill one end just deep enough to go on the shaft of the rotor up to the stop for the original impeller. I used a 1.5" great plains prop from Tower Hobby. It was drilled to 3/16 as well using a drill press to maintain the hole center. These parts will fit together tightly, I did not use glue on the one that is running in my frag tank that I am starting up.
To modify the cover for the 802 to fit inside a 1.5"x2" bell reducer I cut the top portion off using a drill press and a dremel cutter bit, makes a nice even cut like that. To fit the newly cut piece into the bell reducer I run the reducer around a sanding drum on the drill press until there is an interference fit between the two. That can be glued later on.
To make the slots in the reducer I use the dremel bit again to cut slots with the outside edges 3/16" apart. These are cut on 100 degree arcs so that there is 3 pieced of pvc left intact. One the two slots are cute I cut the center of the waste piece and then run a 3/16 dremel bit mounted in the drill press through the slot to clean it up and round the ends.
I still have not decided on a prop stop yet, that will come this weekend when I get home from Ontario.
I am using a nylon bushing from Home Depot for the coupling for the prop and rotor. It is a 3/8"x1" bushing. I drill all the way through with a 3/16" bit, and then set a depth stop to drill one end just deep enough to go on the shaft of the rotor up to the stop for the original impeller. I used a 1.5" great plains prop from Tower Hobby. It was drilled to 3/16 as well using a drill press to maintain the hole center. These parts will fit together tightly, I did not use glue on the one that is running in my frag tank that I am starting up.
To modify the cover for the 802 to fit inside a 1.5"x2" bell reducer I cut the top portion off using a drill press and a dremel cutter bit, makes a nice even cut like that. To fit the newly cut piece into the bell reducer I run the reducer around a sanding drum on the drill press until there is an interference fit between the two. That can be glued later on.
To make the slots in the reducer I use the dremel bit again to cut slots with the outside edges 3/16" apart. These are cut on 100 degree arcs so that there is 3 pieced of pvc left intact. One the two slots are cute I cut the center of the waste piece and then run a 3/16 dremel bit mounted in the drill press through the slot to clean it up and round the ends.
I still have not decided on a prop stop yet, that will come this weekend when I get home from Ontario.
bgreenlee
Member
Thanks Travis. I am happy how the biggest part of it turned out. I wish I could get the reducer in black, but I guess it will be covered in coralline soon enough anyway.
Hopefully the magnets will be in by this weekend so I can make the base for it. I am tryin to figure out how to use the magnets to mount it through the glass, but still have the vibration dampening of the suction cups. I am thinking of using rubber bushings with nylon bolts through the, I think i can kill all the vibration that would make noise with the powerhead.
bgreenlee
Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7329366#post7329366 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Covey
Looks good you should post that Bushing in the main "Hitchhikers" thread as its the best option I have seen for the AQ mod.
I finally got my internet back so heres v 2.0 of my Maxi mod.
Almost perfect now. I got a few kinks to work out then I'll do Bob's for him.
That turned out good, what are you using to hold the gutter guard to the body?
bgreenlee
Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7329429#post7329429 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bullet
You guys rule! I need one of these and I will start making my own
I should have one done this weekend, as long as the rest of the parts come in. I bought the acrylic today to make the brackets for the inside and outside of the tank that hold the magnets. I am thinking of putting a bar through the outlet and utilizing a stop attached to it. Not positive yet though.
I should be arround this coming weekend, if your not busy you are more then welcome to come over and make one here to get you started. From the house its 4 minutes to Lowes, 5 minutes to Home Depot, 11 minutes to the LFS, and 16 minutes to Daisy Dukes( 23 if you stop for your own booze along the way)
Covey
New member
You could order some "medical grade Vecro" and basically make a what looks like an mag float. I exoped my second one to a Mag float and it doesn't tranfer much noise.
"what are you using to hold the gutter guard to the body?"
Wire ties again but instead of wrapping it all the way around I used it on the back side a cinched the gutter guard together.
I am going to get real tricky with the third one and lace the wire ties on the inside so there completily hidden.
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