moisture, humidity question

ChrisB

New member
Is there anyone out there that has at least 500 gallons of water total that DOESN'T use a chiller, dehumidifier, exhaust/bathroom fan system, or HRV to control their moisture?

In other words, someone that relies on the central unit only?
 
i have 425 g total water volume and i live in souther cali.. is just use 2 6" fans on my sump and 2 6" fans above my lights.... also have a ceiling fan in the room... room stays nice and cool when everything is running ... even when it its 100 outside.. but i also rely on T5 for light when it gets hot
 
My tank is 390 with 240 sump,125 DSB,125fuge;in the same room are a few nanos.The system has a chiller but I quit using it after last summers electric bill .Placing box fans before and aft of the sump cools system just fine .I used a dehumidifier but now I don't.The room is in basement with windows on both walls for cross venting when AC is not on .House fan on helps with humidity also.Mold at baseboard was a problem at first but now it's gone after using fans and windows open whenever possible.
 
i have 335 gallons and use 2 fans and a window ac to keep the room cool. tank stays at 78 degrees all the time and no problems with the the moisture. i can keep it cool in the room and warmer in the rest of the house and doesnt cause my electric bill to much fuss, and i use 3 250 watt halides and 220 watt pc.
 
I ran my 450g in the house without any of that equipment but I keep my house at 74 degrees in the summer, in saying that my 700g which has it's own fishroom has it's own a/c set to 77degrees and I have a de-humidifier in there-no chiller needed-tank water is 78-80
 
40 display, dedicated fish room, 700 gallon total water volumn, no chiller, no dehumidifier, no dedicated system. All I did was get a room air conditioner for $350 and it has ran perfect for over a year so far.

Works like a charm
 
Is it logical to say that cooling the air temperature to avoid water temperature to go up is more efficient than cooling the water while the real problem is the high air temperature from our MH lights that caused the high water temperature to begin with?
 
Is it logical to say that cooling the air temperature to avoid water temperature to go up is more efficient than cooling the water while the real problem is the high air temperature from our MH lights that caused the high water temperature to begin with?

My pumps by themselves add enough heat into my system (440gallons total) to require a chiller (and running the chiller in the fish tank room requires the use of an exhaust fan). But, I also live in hot Tucson.
 
Big daddy-I run two darts,one hammerhead,4-6100's,2-6200's,2-wavebox's and 3 ehiems on my 700g in LasVegas,but cooling the air temp does two things.Keeps water temp down without chiller and allows for comfortable room temp to work in-what pumps are you running?
 
my tank is running at 75-76 atm with no heater or chiller 1k total volume. I live in south florida my humidity avgr 35-40 percent in the house. my house temp is set at 74 my total wattage is 1680w for my entire tank with a 20x water turnover. Proving that a 560/g tank doesnt have to break the bank monthly if you set it up right when you start.
 
I run two dolphins, The aqua sea 5200 and the amp master 4700. the aqua sea draws 8.4 amps and the amp master 3.3 amps. But, I run an exhaust fan over the tank room 24/7 and even when I run the tank dark (once every 3 mts), the chiller will still come on during the day and the room stays cool (mid 70's).

The dolphin might not be as efficient (w/heat transfer) as your pumps, but then again you are running quite a few pumps. I might have to try a wall a/c in the room.

I also run 2 - 250 watt 10k (13 hrs a day) and 4 - 400 watt 10k (4 hrs a day) on blue line electronic ballasts.
 
yeah-I forgot to add the 4-400watt 10k's 9hrs a day on pfo hqi's-the split a/c unit is the way to go IMO but keeping humidity no higher then 60% is a must otherwise things get uncomfortable when working in there.
 
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