more confused than ever

sgosse

New member
I have a 180g with a few lps and softies and a dozen fish. The tank has been running for close to 2 years and I want to replace the small amount of substrate and go DSB. I have read alot as of late only to make me more confused than ever as to how to proceed. I got a good deal on Caribsea live sand oolite grade, enough for a 4" bed. I guess one question is do I take the rock out as well as the existing substrate and leave fish ? Can I turn the mp40's down enough that the sand won't blow around to much and will I ever be able to turn them back up ? Is the rock I have now (roughly 300 lbs) enough to seed the new sand keeping in mind I do see life on it ? ie. pod's, worms, etc. I do have a sump/refugium with cheato but really like the idea of the sand in the DT. I'm sure alot of you are thinking I'm crazy to go this route but I like the whole idea of it and I'm hoping those of you who run DSB's will convince me this is the right way to go.
Thanks
 
How dense is your existing substrate? Did you place the rocks on the glass when you originally set up the tank? If so, I'd leave the rock in, and begin to remove portions of the existing substrate, and replace with the new. I'd say to do about 1/4 at a time, maybe a week to 10 days apart, and watch your param's.

I've had DSB's for many years without any problems, in fact I believe it to be very beneficial. You do have to follow the principals set forth in Ron Shimek's article here:
http://www.ronshimek.com/deep_sand_beds.html
It appears you already have the recommended substrate and will be making it deep enough. But, make sure you aren't adding any animals that will be detrimental to it's overall health. Here is the reasoning:
http://marine-engineers.org/2012/01/10/sandbed-death-innocent-killers/

Even though you have some live rock in your system, it might be prudent to give it a booster shot, here:
http://www.ipsf.com/livesand.html

I don't use Vortech PH's, so I can't comment on how much flow you will be able to use. I'm using Tunze, and direct the flow more toward the surface of the water column.
 
there is nothing wrong with sand as long as you realize that it is nothing more than a phosphates sponge and needs to be refreshed like any other type of sponge/filter. all this means is that you should make your substrate open enough to allow you to stir it, siphon, or replace on occasion as areas fill with detritus and clogs up the phosphate engine.

G~
 
I have read that adding it all at once can change your parameters, do you suppose too much ? The reason I ask is I'd like to take most of the rock out and give it a little scrub to rid it of white sponges. While its out I thought of adding all the sand then placing rock in sand. Do you think this would also create a cycle ?The substrate right now is 2" in a few spots down to nothing in others. Some of the rock has acrylic rods suspending it above the bottom while others are on top of substrate.
I saw a vidio of the shipment this guy recieved from Inland Aquatics and it didnt look to be alot of critters for the price. Hey Downbeach are you generally pleased with what you recieve ? How often do you give your sandbed a booster shot ?
 
Hey Downbeach are you generally pleased with what you recieve ? How often do you give your sandbed a booster shot ?

I think it's good stuff. I add some every couple of years. I also added the Reefworms diversity pack after about 6 months. BTW, I don't have to siphon, stir or in any other way manipulate the sand bed. Although I do have a couple on Conch's and about a dozen Cerith snails that call the substrtate home.
 
I am not going to say ya or nay to DSB since it sounds like you are set on it, but I strongly suggest you do not take it all out at once, this will lead to a huge release of crap into the water which will most likely cause a hard cycle. I have seen two different ways work, first is going by layers, removing .5 inch of sand every week or two, then once all the sand has been removed then adding sand, the adding doesnt have to go in such a slow fashion if the sand is new sand. The second is taking sections and removing sections at a time. you can either back fill as soon as you take each section out or wait till it is all removed. Doesn't matter which way you choose the key is going slowly, test your water throughout the process and have water mixed and ready if something starts to go bad.
 
Reefin'Dude - why don't friends let friends use refugiums?

if you believe anything that Dr. S has said, and especially what was linked to earlier in this thread, then i am sure i am going to ruffle some feathers.

refugiums, lets call them live sumps, do not work as advertised. they are just glorified cesspools. the object of them is to allow detritus to collect in a certain area, a noble goal, then let the detritus rot in order to support an organism that we do not want in our systems anyway in a odd belief that it is exporting nutrients in a reasonable manner, which they are not. they are after the fact nutrient removers and do not go after the source of the nutrients. live sumps, GFO, Chaeto, ATS's, they are all after the fact nutrient binders. they are only able to bind nutrients after they have been released from detritus by bacteria. extra steps needed.

here is a nice chart showing the different ways to export nutrients from our systems.

phosphate_graphic_4_square.png


as you can see going after the nutrients after they have been incorporated into algae is not very effective at lowering the nutrients out of system.

the only reason to have a substrate in a live sump is to bind phosphates. that is what calcium carbonate does best. it is this fact that has been ignored by Dr. S and others who promote the use of substrates a complete filter for our systems. this is not correct. calcium carbonate is a fantastic phosphate binder just like GFO or Aluminum Oxide. how can something that does this be expected to last indefinitely in our systems? it can not. it does last indefinitely in nature either. it needs to be cleaned and reset in order for the phosphate engine to keep working. problems occur when the phosphate engine is clogged by detritus. there is not a mechanism for migrating phosphates out of substrate besides manual removal. this is what has been ignored in this hobby since the start of the DSB craze where we were told not to touch a substrate. if the substrate is working properly, then why would we need to touch it? why does one have to remove substrates slowly if they are processing nutrients so well? why does old tank syndrome look and sound exactly like eutrophication on natural reefs? if H2S is caused by nutrients in an anoxic area, then how did the nutrients get there if the substrate is being cleaned all of the time by magic worms? do the magic worms send the detritus to another dimension?

i am not saying do not use sand in system or in a live sump. i am not saying not to use a true refugium (a separate body of water of the same trophic level that keeps an organisms safe from predation). what irks me is that live sumps are recommended for everything without actually understanding exactly how they function. i am a firm believer in using an area for collecting detritus in an easy to siphon location. the lower the flow the better. i just do not believe in keeping this poo as a pet in order to provide the nutrients needed to fuel algae growth, when the nutrients can be removed before it has a chance to fuel the algae. there is nothing wrong with using sand in a system either as long as its phosphate binding properties are understood and taken into account.

here is an article with natural reef values and values wanting to be approached in our systems. the only reason why the values do not match is because our testing equipment is not up to par. it has nothing to do with the fact that we do not want them to match. it is this discrepancy that causes all of the confusion in our hobby. we see that phosphate levels are 0.005ppm on the reef and nitrates are below 0.1ppm. yet in the other column values less than 0.03ppm phosphates and 0.02ppm nitrate are acceptable. how? just because we are not able to test for these values does not mean that they should not be our goal. according to this article the limiting factor for algae growth is 0.009ppm phosphates (converted from micromolar). just because our wimpy test kits read less than 0.01ppm does not mean that they are less than 0.009ppm, let alone the 0.005ppm found on natural reefs. we see it all of the time on forums that they have algae and yet their test kit reads 0 phosphates. 0.0 is far from 0.009ppm. even 0.01 is significantly higher than 0.009. it makes all kinds of sense that people are seeing algae when their test kits read 0, but it does not mean that the phosphates are near the limiting factor for algae growth, does it?

that is why i say. "Friends don't let friends use refugiums". :D

G~
 
finding what works for you is part of the fun / insanity of this passion. what works for one may not for another bla bla bla
remote dsb? or are you doing it for how it looks in the tank? not as much of a commitment this way. i have done them both and for me just enough to cover the bb is my sweet spot.
 
I guess I should say I dont have a refugium per say. I grow cheato in the centre section of the sump and as reefin'dude said, a place for detritus to settle and then export. I don't like the bb look plus I find it difficult to place some corals on a bb. As far as a couple inches of sustrate I found I never siphoned it only for the fact it was really difficult to get in and around the rock structure
Those of you who do have a DSB do you place rock directly on glass or in/on the sand ? If rock is placed on glass can you ever re-aquascape because your then disturbing the sandbed ?
 
if you believe anything that Dr. S has said, and especially what was linked to earlier in this thread, then i am sure i am going to ruffle some feathers.

refugiums, lets call them live sumps, do not work as advertised. they are just glorified cesspools. the object of them is to allow detritus to collect in a certain area, a noble goal, then let the detritus rot in order to support an organism that we do not want in our systems anyway in a odd belief that it is exporting nutrients in a reasonable manner, which they are not. they are after the fact nutrient removers and do not go after the source of the nutrients. live sumps, GFO, Chaeto, ATS's, they are all after the fact nutrient binders. they are only able to bind nutrients after they have been released from detritus by bacteria. extra steps needed.

here is a nice chart showing the different ways to export nutrients from our systems.

phosphate_graphic_4_square.png


as you can see going after the nutrients after they have been incorporated into algae is not very effective at lowering the nutrients out of system.

the only reason to have a substrate in a live sump is to bind phosphates. that is what calcium carbonate does best. it is this fact that has been ignored by Dr. S and others who promote the use of substrates a complete filter for our systems. this is not correct. calcium carbonate is a fantastic phosphate binder just like GFO or Aluminum Oxide. how can something that does this be expected to last indefinitely in our systems? it can not. it does last indefinitely in nature either. it needs to be cleaned and reset in order for the phosphate engine to keep working. problems occur when the phosphate engine is clogged by detritus. there is not a mechanism for migrating phosphates out of substrate besides manual removal. this is what has been ignored in this hobby since the start of the DSB craze where we were told not to touch a substrate. if the substrate is working properly, then why would we need to touch it? why does one have to remove substrates slowly if they are processing nutrients so well? why does old tank syndrome look and sound exactly like eutrophication on natural reefs? if H2S is caused by nutrients in an anoxic area, then how did the nutrients get there if the substrate is being cleaned all of the time by magic worms? do the magic worms send the detritus to another dimension?

i am not saying do not use sand in system or in a live sump. i am not saying not to use a true refugium (a separate body of water of the same trophic level that keeps an organisms safe from predation). what irks me is that live sumps are recommended for everything without actually understanding exactly how they function. i am a firm believer in using an area for collecting detritus in an easy to siphon location. the lower the flow the better. i just do not believe in keeping this poo as a pet in order to provide the nutrients needed to fuel algae growth, when the nutrients can be removed before it has a chance to fuel the algae. there is nothing wrong with using sand in a system either as long as its phosphate binding properties are understood and taken into account.

here is an article with natural reef values and values wanting to be approached in our systems. the only reason why the values do not match is because our testing equipment is not up to par. it has nothing to do with the fact that we do not want them to match. it is this discrepancy that causes all of the confusion in our hobby. we see that phosphate levels are 0.005ppm on the reef and nitrates are below 0.1ppm. yet in the other column values less than 0.03ppm phosphates and 0.02ppm nitrate are acceptable. how? just because we are not able to test for these values does not mean that they should not be our goal. according to this article the limiting factor for algae growth is 0.009ppm phosphates (converted from micromolar). just because our wimpy test kits read less than 0.01ppm does not mean that they are less than 0.009ppm, let alone the 0.005ppm found on natural reefs. we see it all of the time on forums that they have algae and yet their test kit reads 0 phosphates. 0.0 is far from 0.009ppm. even 0.01 is significantly higher than 0.009. it makes all kinds of sense that people are seeing algae when their test kits read 0, but it does not mean that the phosphates are near the limiting factor for algae growth, does it?

that is why i say. "Friends don't let friends use refugiums". :D

G~


Pics of your current tank please:) The proverbial money where your mouth is.
 
unfortunately my home forum is down for server maintenance, but here is a link to my build thread. it should become active when the server upgrade is completed. i had to take my tank down because of domestic issues with my wife at the time and her inability to keep her pants zipped.

seeing that you have been on the forums since 2000, you may remember this tank.

bomberstank.jpg


Bomber's tank.

here is a link to the full thread about it. this tank was set up using the information about the levels on an oligotrophic reef and doing all that is possible to keep a system at those levels. all detritus is removed as quickly as possible. monster skimmer processing a lot more water than is normally done to aid in the removal or organic material.

as for getting my new system up. it is a matter of figuring out if the boss wants a complete kitchen renovation, the tank will be a room divider, or not, tank will be in-wall in another room.

what part of the science are you disagreeing with? what more information would you like to see?

G~
 
Those of you who do have a DSB do you place rock directly on glass or in/on the sand ? If rock is placed on glass can you ever re-aquascape because your then disturbing the sandbed ?

I started by placing some rock right on the glass, mostly a dense Caribbean type rock. I also used some PVC pipe and fittings to help get a little more elevation, and improve water flow, with the aid of some PH's, in hard to reach area's around the overflow chambers and behind/through the rocks. I used the best/better pieces of rock, i.e. Pukani on top of the base rock and PVC, and that is what would be re-aquascaped without disturbing the sandbed.
 
it is this fact that has been ignored by Dr. S and others who promote the use of substrates a complete filter for our systems

ReefinDude, this is a straw man argument. There's been many who thought a DSB was the only filter needed, especially when the DSB was the new thing. Dr. S has always said that you need all the help you can get in getting nutrients out of a reef tank. Recently he mentioned that he does 50% water changes every couple of weeks.
 
unfortunately my home forum is down for server maintenance, but here is a link to my build thread. it should become active when the server upgrade is completed. i had to take my tank down because of domestic issues with my wife at the time and her inability to keep her pants zipped.

seeing that you have been on the forums since 2000, you may remember this tank.

bomberstank.jpg


Bomber's tank.

here is a link to the full thread about it. this tank was set up using the information about the levels on an oligotrophic reef and doing all that is possible to keep a system at those levels. all detritus is removed as quickly as possible. monster skimmer processing a lot more water than is normally done to aid in the removal or organic material.

as for getting my new system up. it is a matter of figuring out if the boss wants a complete kitchen renovation, the tank will be a room divider, or not, tank will be in-wall in another room.

what part of the science are you disagreeing with? what more information would you like to see?

G~

Beautiful! I don't disagree with any of it. I just like to see it action. Sometimes it looks great on paper, but doesn't translate into reality.

I remember Bombers tank, but I don't think it's still up. That is what makes me wonder if it's practical long term (due to what, I'm not exactly sure). I don't see many up long term. It may be due to maintenance, burn out, or some other human factor.

I'm not arguing the science, I understand it. I'm not a fan of DSB, and I don't like the look of BB. I'm figuring out what works best for me and my level of dedication to the tank.

Sorry to here about the wife, that's terrible.
 
yea, that wife thing really annoyed me. :( much better place now, i just need to get a decision on where i can put the tank. :D

there is a sliding scale of maintenance. it is up to the aquarist to find where they want to be on the sliding scale. i am on the BB side. having been in the hobby 20+ years i have tried nearly all types of methodologies at least twice. i am just not in the mood to deal with putting my hands into a tank for any reason other than to trim corals. others really need the look of sand, not a problem as long as people know the correct science of what calcium carbonate does and adjusts their maintenance to match. no matter what organism we want to keep. we must clean up after them. whether it is a cat, a bird, a horse, a ferret, a mudskipper, or coral. unless the nutrients are exported as quickly as they are imported (for the given trophic level one wants to emulate), the system is going to become more eutrophic and at some point algae will be the payment. :(

Bomber's tank is not up anymore. after all that went on here on RC towards him he got out of the hobby part of SW. he bred clownfish for a while. he has stopped doing that now also. i talk to him about once a year or so, just to catch up.

G~
 
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