More stupid plumbing questions

I was more or less thinking that when he mentioned "emergency" = power outage, so placing a check valve after the return pump will resolve the situation of back flow.

I do agree of CV's failing as well
 
I have a Savko union ball valve on my drain line as well. My tank is a converted Tenecor Simplicity Plus system, (essentially the back 4" of the tank was a wet/dry system and is now a giant overflow with approximately 14 gallons of water). I installed the valve since I have a small sump, (18 gallon converted amiracle wet dry), in the stand and I can shut the drain valve, shut the return valve and pull the sump, skimmer etc out for work/cleaning/repair etc. I didn't think it was a bad idea and have used this valve already. Also if I have to pull the durso pipe out I didn't want to overflow my sump with that additional 14 gallons. I can understand your thinking if you have the normal in tank overflow which probably only holds a few gallons of water or if you were using a decent sized sump. Just my situation.
 
Ideally your sump should be designed to handle the additional volume when pumps are off and then some.I guess every situation is different but if your in the planning stage,I'd go the safe route.Don't forget Murphy's Law...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11530056#post11530056 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fio1022
Ideally your sump should be designed to handle the additional volume when pumps are off and then some.


Actually, that goes beyond "ideally" Setting up a system with your sump volume running so high that there's no room for backflow would be a big mistake. Sooner or later, that pump will be shut down, and the sump HAS to be able to handle the backflow.
 
The sump is being designed to handle back-flow when the pump is off and then some. The unions are for ease of removal/cleaning/replacement of the pump. I'm not installing check valves as I've been told they aren't all that reliable. I thought it would be a good idea to be able to manually stop water draining from the tank, but since the sump can handle the added volume I guess there's not much need for the gate valves.

Anybody need a couple of 1" gate valves? ;)
 
sump volume

sump volume

My sump, although small, can handle the amount of water that would drain in the case of a power shut-off. I have tested it many times. It's just that it couldn't handle all the water in the 4" by 48" overflow area if I were to remove the durso pipe, (which I learned when I installed it incorrectly, {thankfully it was a very slow drain & the sump didn't overflow}).
 
The sump (75 gallon tank) is going to be set up so that it will be able to accomodate an extra 30 gallons which should cover both back flow and the overflow boxes.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11550878#post11550878 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pecan2phat
I have ball valves on my drains :)

Comes in pretty handy when you need to do modifications below the bulkhead.


That's the only useful purpose for them there. The problem still exists, it's easy to forget that you left them closed.
 
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