My 1050mi move was with a smaller tank. The mechanics of the move were basically the same, with much more planning of "life support" so to speak. Since my tank was smaller, I was able to bring that with me, and that was a huge help. However, my stand had to go in the truck so I made plans for supporting my inhabitants until I got the stand back. The stand, I might add, was transported by a moving company and we were supposed to receive our things a meer three days later. It didn't arrive until a week and a half later. The moral of that story was to expect the unexpected!
I put everything of it's own kind in separate buckets. For example, I piled the rock in water in buckets, and separated the snails from the hermits. We brought everything in our minivan. I was concerned about temperature, but it didn't prove to be a problem because we were going from North to South and had planned to drive as far as humanly possible. I wrapped the buckets with blankets to insulate them. I dosed Seachems's Prime halfway through the trip and I made room to bring all the tank water I had saved as well as fresh and nsw. Home depot sells those sealing watertight lids for their homer buckets. We drilled holes in the top to run lines for battery operated pumps. Then we drilled another hole in the tops a hair smaller in diameter than rigid airline tubing. We then stuffed the rigid tubing into the hole as a vent for the pumps. It kept the buckets watertight and the van dry. It did take up a ton of room because you can't stack the buckets, but it kept everything alive, unharmed, and oxygenated. We drove for as long a possible and stopped at a hotel for only a short sleep and a shower. When we got to the new house, I set up the tank on the floor and put everything "living" as well as some rock for bio filtration in the tank. I was running an HOB bakpak at the time, so that was really handy. Then it was just a matter of basic water testing, water changes, and very light feeding until I could get everything back up and running properly. I keep softies, so I knew that they are pretty darn hardy. Amazingly, I didn't lose a thing. Even the peppermint shrimp that I had at the time made it with no problem.
I think if I had to do it all over again, I would have prepared sponge filters and used those. I also think that I would have considered making small air lift tubes out of PVC and the battery operated pumps to circulate water as well as oxygenate it. This would allow me to use a media like purigen in bags. Maybe it sounds like overkill, but both of those items would have been really handy to use and have at the new destination until everything was set back up and running. If I couldn't bring my tank with me because of space constraints, I would bring my QT tank and perhaps purchase another one.
Here are some suggestions for moving a tank:
-Plan like crazy. Write down every item, every thought you've got, exactly how your going to break down your tank and what order of things should be done to get it set back up.
-Fast your fish for a couple of days before your move. This is an important step that keeps your fish from poisoning their water too quickly while they are in transport.
-Always transport fish in their own separate containers or bags, even mated pairs. Fish can get really cranky with each other if they are in close quarters.
-Use the knowledge that you have of your inhabitants to help you move them as safely as possible. For instance, if your moving aggressive fish like triggers that are known for chewing through bags, consider transporting them in separate buckets instead.
-Use your fish store! You can always ask them to bag your fish and inverts with oxygen for you (the worst they would say is no) and they can be a valuable resource as far as shipping techniques. For instance, one of my LFS bags the fish, puts it in another bag and then lines the space between the two to slide a piece of newspaper. This keeps the fish calm until it gets home. It's a great and easily implemented idea. They are also a great source of information because they are the ones who get stock with "standardized shipping methods". As them about shipping the kinds of coral you keep, how they arrive in their store, and what they think the best method they have ever come across is.
-There are items you can get to help you. You could purchase a power converter to run in your car for pumps or heaters. Coleman makes coolers that can keep ice frozen for up to 6 days in 90 degree weather, so using one of those would keep your temperature very stable. There is a product called "Bag Buddies" by Jungle that will add oxygen to the water and calm fish.
http://www.allivet.com/Bag-Buddies-Fish-Bag-Tabs-p/25949.htm
-Know your corals, and their limits. If your trip is going to be long, involve several days, and you have a prized specimen, it might be better if you have a friend or local LFS take care of it for you until your tank is set back up and stable. Then you can have it overnighted to you.
-Chemical media/additives can be your best friend.
All in all, it's not too difficult, but can be very time consuming and is laborious. It just takes a lot of planning. I spent more time and energy moving the tank than the whole rest of the house. :lol:
But if they are moving their whole house, I totally agree...at least one whole day, and perhaps the morning of the next.
