MRC Club

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10131752#post10131752 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Benny Z
put a dab of superglue on one of the flat parts of the arrow. just glue one side so you can still take the housing apart to clean it.

It doesn't have to be movable within the housing to function properly?
 
where should i setup my CR-5 relative to the sump? i had planned on putting it next to my skimmer, which is above the water line so it can drain over the edge of the sump. but as i started laying things out last night, it came to me that if the maxijet supplying the reactor were to stop, the reactor would probably drain all its water out of that line and into the sump. this seems like it could be a bad idea. should it sit next to the sump?
 
Here is the instructions from way back, might be useful for others that come across the problem without having to search for it:

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10131876#post10131876 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ereefic
Memo, here are some pics to help you out.

1st Pic - Beckett is inside of this housing. Back out the 3 thumbscrews a little and then twist and pull out the injector. Then remove the injector from the top of the housing, should just slide out.

2nd Pic - Beckett injector (may be black or grey). There may be a couple of o-rings around the bottom of the injector, you'll need to slide those off before you can pull it apart.

3rd Pic - Injector opened up.

4th Pic - Inside piece of the injector.

You'll notice that the pieces on the opposite sides are notched out and the other 2 sides are not on the inside injector piece. The nothced sides go into the notches on both halves of the injector. You'll want to glue the middle piece to ONE SIDE ONLY. Basically so it looks like pic 3. Be very careful glueing to make sure it doesn't run and glue the 2 halves together. I'd let the glue dry for a good while and clean up any stray glue.

Pic 1
18861IJ1.JPG


Pic 2
18861IJ2.JPG


Pic 3
18861IJ3.JPG


Pic 4
18861IJ4.JPG

 
Thanks for the info. Just to be clear, you are saying to glue the non-notched arrow piece, that is perpendicular to the housing, onto the housing, correct? We are not glueing the "ball end" of the internal piece to anything, correct?
 
I knew I seen it somewhere else, here is another quote to specifically show where the glue has to go:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10134377#post10134377 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by steve68
open up the beckett
4-9-06-0.jpg

put superglue on to the 2 ends of this piece but only on one side
4-9-06-.jpg

& glue to one side this way u will be able to take the other 1/2 off when u clean,
the ones i have are not glue i just have never had that problem,
if u dont have the 2 ends on the slot where they drop in it will make noise.
4-9-06-1.jpg


we where due for pictures on how to glue & yes i was bored
 
Oh, ok, now I see. Let's call it a peg and slot system for clarification. The inner "arrow" part of the beckett sits in the housing with the two pegs sitting in the slots. You are saying to glue these pegs into the slots on only one side of the housing. Do I finally have this correct? :)
 
congratulations. 11 posts later and you finally have it. :hammer:

as an act of gratitude you may now send us your bartletts and a frag of each of your acros. :)
 
LOL, well with terms like "thingy", "flat piece", and "arrow" bouncing around, let's just say it wasn't the clearest instruction manual :D
 
bump on the CR-5 setup. i know there are a few users out there, if anyone could help me out with placement relative to the water line in the sump, i'd appreciate it.
 
tuning my new CR-5

tuning my new CR-5

so i'm having a hard time getting my CR-5 tuned in. just fired it up sunday night, the first night it kept the system PH so low the CO2 was off most the time (i have the AC3 turning CO2 off at 7.8 and on again at 7.9). the bubble counter filled up with water, either from the CO2 being off or not having it sealed well enough, i rinsed it out and put fresh teflon tape on it and it's been fine since. i put a fresh batch of kalk in on monday morning (i use it for topoff) to get the PH up where the CO2 will stay on, now the effluent PH won't get above 6.3.

the GENX CO2 regulator that came with it is really tough to get tuned. it's either a bubble every three seconds or a bubble every ten seconds, with only about 1/32" difference in the knob between them. anyone know if this can be adjusted so there's a more useful range of use? even at a bubble every ten seconds my effluent PH doesn't go up much over 24 hours later. i'm measuring it by moving my main system's PH probe into effluent collected in a shot glass. am i having a calibration problem thanks to the rapid change in PH? should i get another probe and figure out a way to independently measure the effluent with it?

i have a maxijet 1200 feeding the reactor, and am having a hard time getting the effluent drip rate tuned as well. it's either 60 drops a minute, a constant flow, or 20 drops a minute. once again, this seems totally overpowered. should i go to a different pump? like a litermeter?

my alk was at 11dkh last night, which is up 1 dkh from where it was when i fired it up. right now i have the CO2 off until i can figure out how to adjust it properly.
 
i sent him mail a couple of days ago, and have not gotten a response. i'll try giving him a call from work today.

the genx regulator and maxijet-1200 are part of his "standard" setup, so i figured someone else out here may have gone through the same routine.
 
drstupid,
lets see if i can help you out by telling what i did since i've moved things around in the area where the cr5 is located.

make sure everything is attached correctly.I filled the bubble counter less then half way with water because it had the tendency to fill,have not had that problem since.make sure you have the c02 tank opened all the way, then adjust the regulator to its correct pressure. then open your bubble counter to just a few bubbles/second approx. 1/sec or 1 every 2- 3 seconds. then open your efluent drip to about the same rate.then let this stabilize ,since it will change because of pressure,for about 24 hours. once it has stabilized it will have a better drip rate in the bubble counter and the efluent drip.

by the way having air inside the calcium chamber can sometimes affect these drip rates,get rid of the air by turning off the c02 and opening up the efluent drip all the way so the water pushes the air out. once that is done you should do the above.

my ph controller is set to 7.5 and 8.2 my efluent drip is between 7.6 and 7.9 for PH, with a bubble count of 1 per 2 sec. hope this helps. by the way do you have the spraybar modification?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10184230#post10184230 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tor101898

make sure you have the c02 tank opened all the way, then adjust the regulator to its correct pressure.

hi alex, thanks for the response!

this is the part i think i'm missing; the genx regulator doesn't have an obvious pressure adjustment, no instructions (not even in chinese!), and is running around 25-30 PSI. where do you keep yours, around 10 PSI? it's probably affecting the overall pressure in the system, as well. maybe i need to get a different regulator.


my ph controller is set to 7.5 and 8.2 my efluent drip is between 7.6 and 7.9 for PH, with a bubble count of 1 per 2 sec. hope this helps. by the way do you have the spraybar modification?

let me make sure i understand: is your controller on the system, and shutting off CO2 at 7.5 ph and what, kalk addition at 8.2 ph? or is your controller on the effluent, and shutting off CO2 and 7.5 ph and and turning it on at 8.2 ph?

i do have the spray bar mod. how high in the chamber above the sponge pad do you fill your media? the holes in the spray bar go all the way to the top, i'm probably 85%-90% full, so the top holes are not covered. do you need to cover them all to get the dispersion to work correctly through the rest of the media?

also, i'm curious about your experience changing your media. it was tough to fill the reactor without making an ungodly mess, i'm not looking forward to trying to empty it. it does not seem like a good idea to move the reactor when its full.

thanks!

pete
 
pete,

My regulator is at 10 psi although, andy recommended 8psi.

My controller turns c02 off at 7.5ph it has never gone above 8.0ph.my controller sensor is in an effluent collector just above the sump,it collects just a small amount of effluent to get a reading,while at the same time dripping into the sump.so it has a constant reading. I clean off the probe every month or so to keep it calibrated.

As for the media in the chamber, when i received the reactor I had the same problem so I added another union, so that taking the flange off would not be a problem. If you pm me your email I will send you a pic. at present I was redoing the area where the reactor was, so the reactor was and is off line at the moment. I only filled the media chamber 3/4 of the way and never had a problem with the spray bar holes. it should be fine,with only the occassional grain of media going in, not a problem.
 
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