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RichConley- Thank you for the great information. I really hated turning my lights back over the main tank.

My old tank I was running Mag return pumps and tunzes for current. I also had the small PC fuge light.

I noticed the temp drop from just turning off one of my Hammerhead pumps . Those things really putting out a lot of heat.
 
Clown 2 be, forgete about the lights. Its $45 to run them, the changes you made probably drop it down to about $20. Its not worth it to make those changes.

Replace the mags first, theyre the least efficient pumps. THat mag 36 on a CL could be replaced for $189 with a Dart. That would save you about $23 a month (asuming $.17/kwh). The pump pays itself off in about 8 months (and a whole lot less if you can get some $$ for the mag36)

Notice that going from the mag36 to sequence Dart saves you as much as all those light cutbacks you made? It also isnt going to affect your tank in a negative way, which the lights are.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7378154#post7378154 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by clown2be

I noticed the temp drop from just turning off one of my Hammerhead pumps . Those things really putting out a lot of heat.
Click to expand...
350w of heat.

Figure it costs (@$.17) $42 a month to run each one of those hammerheads (as much as all your lights). Also, probably add another $20 a month in chiller time to that.
 
Rich, I have a Mag 24 and a mag 36 for my returns and was running 2 hammerheads for my CL. I have now turned off the Mag 36 for return and one Hammerhead for the CL.

Thanks for the info.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7378222#post7378222 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by clown2be
Rich, I have a Mag 24 and a mag 36 for my returns and was running 2 hammerheads for my CL. I have now turned off the Mag 36 for return and one Hammerhead for the CL.

Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

Awesome. Thats 710w @24 hours, or about $100 a month.
 
Does anyone know about this Ball valve system the works like a SCWD? I read a thread once about it and can't remember where I say it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7379440#post7379440 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by clown2be
Does anyone know about this Ball valve system the works like a SCWD? I read a thread once about it and can't remember where I say it.
Click to expand...

Its just an electronic ballvalve.


They run about $600 IIRC.
 
Good luck on the electricity bill, especially since Edison will be raising the rates again in August. Very nice tank BTW! I would love to see it in person sometime. It looks like those colonies are massive!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7381736#post7381736 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gcarroll
Good luck on the electricity bill, especially since Edison will be raising the rates again in August. Very nice tank BTW! I would love to see it in person sometime. It looks like those colonies are massive!
Click to expand...

You and I need to meet up one day, we are just around the corner from each other. My colonies are even bigger today:D
 
We will have to do that. Of course before I move to Anaheim Hills where the cost of electricity is far cheaper! Thank God that Disney owns that town.
 
Lot of good suggestions in this thread.I was in the same boat as you about a year ago,with heat and power comsumption.I think the best move i made was buying tunze pumps and ditching the the closed loops.with that purchase meant no more chiller on all the time.and that is a huge savings.(house a/c)
Also i replaced any other pumps that could find lower wattage ones to switch to(rio hyper flo's great pump low voltage).in fact my chiller is no longer hooked up.

As far as lights go i run 400w and have debated switching to 250w but i run mine now for 6hrs- VHO on before and after.and figured with 250's i would have to run them longer with vho to see the same effects i get from the 400s.i like the thought of a longer staring period,but i see no cost savings.
Also i built a new canopy that is completly open top.so that meant no more fans for it and heat has no problem escaping.only need a fan for my sump now.
But there is a trade off in all of this.my tank runs so cool now that i require 2x300 watt heaters to keep atleast 77.and there pretty much on all night,but i do have a basement sump now that provides a cooling effect also.But did not when i first was looking for ways to cool the tank.
To go low voltage will cost ya at first.but well worth it in the long run.
 
Thanks wrassie86. I think I am going to the tunze's again. I ran these in my old tank and with my new tank went with the CL and I'm rethinking this. Also with a closed loop you have the screens that get clogged up for the drains and they get in the way of my rockwork. So Ditching the CL for Tunze, So bye bye to Hammerheads and OM's. Thanks for all the info everyone.
 
Rich, Are you trying to tell me that a Dart pump would use less electricty than a 2 Mag pumps. i have someone that wants to trade me a Dart for my Hammerhead. should I do this.
 
Mag36 (as CL) is 350w for 3600gph=10.28gph/w
Dart (as CL) is 160w for 3600gph=22.5gph/w
Hammerhead is 350w for 5800gph=16.7gph/w

The hammerhead for the Dart is a loss in initial investment, but you could run 2 Darts for less electricity than a single hammerhead, and you'd have more flow.

If you still want to run a closed loop, thats a pretty good swap for you.

just for comparison though:
Tunze 6100
3175gph for 45w = 70gph/w
 
I don't want CL anymore. Would the Dart be good for a return pump? I plan on going with Tunze Power heads inside the tank for current.
 
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