My 150 Reef Photo Journal
- Thread starter GoldStripe
- Start date
GoldStripe
New member
Thanks for the praise guys. I tested the overflow today and it works perfect. The whole thing has water flowing over it and it's an extremely thin layer I'd say 1/8" - 1/4".
Very well laid out project Dan. That's what nice about having another system first. You have the experience of what works and what you want to change in another setup.
I see you are using all ball style valves, are they easy to adjust or even turn? I have them in mine but I got them from the local HD and they are hard as heck to turn. Always afraid of cracking a joint in the plumbing when turning them. I'm changing all of mine to screw style gate valves. I like the ease of adjustment when needed.
Thanks for sharing your project and keep us updated.
George
I see you are using all ball style valves, are they easy to adjust or even turn? I have them in mine but I got them from the local HD and they are hard as heck to turn. Always afraid of cracking a joint in the plumbing when turning them. I'm changing all of mine to screw style gate valves. I like the ease of adjustment when needed.
Thanks for sharing your project and keep us updated.
George
GoldStripe
New member
Thanks joseph and George. 4 of the 6 ball valves are very high quality Hayward true union. These are effortless to turn. Literally I can put my index finger on the end of the handle and close them. I got these on ebay for about half the retail price. The 2 valves on the drains I got from Aquatic Eco Systems. They aren't nearly as good but they also didn't cost 50 bucks a piece. They turn will moderate effort but still easier than the ones at the big box stores.
GoldStripe
New member
Thanks Randy, I've been following your thread for the longest time! LOL
tgunn
Active member
Dan,
Great job on the stand! Very impressive joints and finishing!
I was going to comment that the PCX-70 would be too much sump turnover (my overflow doesn't skim a very thin layer of water at all), but seeing the horizontal overflow you've got made me take back that thought. Awesome work! You've got a lot more guts than I drilling the tank like that...
Oh, and for your closed loop; I'd stick with those two large basket style stainers. The more dispersed and slow the water goes in the better. I have a single drain for my closed loop and cerinths are always getting stuck on the intake strainer (though the flow isn't enough to catch a fish or anything like that)...
Good choice on the dart for a closed loop; I had initially ran a dart on my closed loop and loved it.. great flow and minimal noise and heat..
Tyler
Great job on the stand! Very impressive joints and finishing!
I was going to comment that the PCX-70 would be too much sump turnover (my overflow doesn't skim a very thin layer of water at all), but seeing the horizontal overflow you've got made me take back that thought. Awesome work! You've got a lot more guts than I drilling the tank like that...
Oh, and for your closed loop; I'd stick with those two large basket style stainers. The more dispersed and slow the water goes in the better. I have a single drain for my closed loop and cerinths are always getting stuck on the intake strainer (though the flow isn't enough to catch a fish or anything like that)...
Good choice on the dart for a closed loop; I had initially ran a dart on my closed loop and loved it.. great flow and minimal noise and heat..
Tyler
GoldStripe
New member
Thanks Tyler. In retrospect I would have used a smaller pump for the return. I bought this Iwaki a year ago and it's just been sitting in my fish cabinet waiting for use. Too late to return it now. While fresh water testing I have no bubbles coming back into the tank, actually very few bubbles make it over the last baffle. I know all that may change with the addition of salt though. I'll have to keep my fingers crossed for that.
tgunn
Active member
I think we all make some choices when setting these systems up that we wish we'd have done differently.
As part of my efforts to streamline my system I'm probably going to be swapping out my pcx-70 for a pcx-40. However, keep in mind I also have a Seq1000 pushing 5000GPH for my closed loop, so I'm not going ot be missing the flow.
Three pumps at 400w is a bit of a killer on the electric bill though.Tyler
Hey Dan,
I am so excited you started a thread. I'm about a month behind you on a project that's almost exactly the same (just a little smaller). You're pictures are great, and I'm looking forward to drilling the holes for my calfo overflow tonight. Did you use 2x4's to hold the overflow in place while you levelled it and siliconed it in? Do you think it's necessary to put in a third (emergency) overflow drain?
And how are the returns from your dart set up? I was also planning on putting two holes in the bottom, and having the returns travel under the sand to the front, blowing towards the back of the tank. Then I would have the other two returns coming over the top. I'm currently debating on getting the OM-4 as well.
Either way, I'm excited you started a thread. This way I can just copy everything you do.
By the way, I liked your little hose setup for cooling your drill.
I am so excited you started a thread. I'm about a month behind you on a project that's almost exactly the same (just a little smaller). You're pictures are great, and I'm looking forward to drilling the holes for my calfo overflow tonight. Did you use 2x4's to hold the overflow in place while you levelled it and siliconed it in? Do you think it's necessary to put in a third (emergency) overflow drain?
And how are the returns from your dart set up? I was also planning on putting two holes in the bottom, and having the returns travel under the sand to the front, blowing towards the back of the tank. Then I would have the other two returns coming over the top. I'm currently debating on getting the OM-4 as well.
Either way, I'm excited you started a thread. This way I can just copy everything you do.
By the way, I liked your little hose setup for cooling your drill.
GoldStripe
New member
dtaranath,
I had some old 2x6's laying around and in one or two of those pics you can still see them in the tank. I notched the corners so that the silicone on the bottom of the tank didn't interfere with my leveling. I put a piece of scrap plywood on top of the 2x6's to support almost the entire width of the glass. The glass is about 1/16" - 1/8" narrower than the exact inside measurement. The glass is 46 7/8" - 46 15/16", something like that. I made the plywood at least 1/2" narrower all the around because I didn't want to silicone the wood in there too.
I'm no expert but from all the stuff I read beforehand, it depends on how big your drains are. I have two 1 1/2" drains so I didn't think it was necessary. Upon testing with the pump running wide open, one drain can be almost fully closed before the tank level starts to rise. Plus, with 1 1/2" plumbing, the chances of stoppage are less IMO then with 1" plumbing. I don't think even my biggest turbo snails would plug it up.
I have 2 of the 4 CL returns at the bottom. My original intent was do to exactly what you stated. I may still do that but I have also been considering splitting each one to aim at the side glass and also behind the rock work to keep detritus (sp?) from building up back there. Another reason I may not plumb it to the front of the tank is that I'm putting down 3/4" HDPE (starboard like material), on the bottom to protect the glass because I'm only gonna have an SSB. Why so thick you may ask? Because mcmaster.com has it cheap and then I can use even less sand. I want the HDPE and sand to come flush with the bottom trim of the tank which is 1 7/8", call it 2". Plumbing to the front would require cutting the starboard and running PVC between the cut pieces. I may still do it who knows.
I'm ordering the OM 4 way today and HDPE. I also have to order another ROIII pendant, IC eballast, bulbs, and a 2 or 4 x 54 t5 fixture. I haven't decided if 4 is needed yet but I'm leaning toward no. And the Dart will hopefully be in tomorrow right Rob?? LOL
I had some old 2x6's laying around and in one or two of those pics you can still see them in the tank. I notched the corners so that the silicone on the bottom of the tank didn't interfere with my leveling. I put a piece of scrap plywood on top of the 2x6's to support almost the entire width of the glass. The glass is about 1/16" - 1/8" narrower than the exact inside measurement. The glass is 46 7/8" - 46 15/16", something like that. I made the plywood at least 1/2" narrower all the around because I didn't want to silicone the wood in there too.
I'm no expert but from all the stuff I read beforehand, it depends on how big your drains are. I have two 1 1/2" drains so I didn't think it was necessary. Upon testing with the pump running wide open, one drain can be almost fully closed before the tank level starts to rise. Plus, with 1 1/2" plumbing, the chances of stoppage are less IMO then with 1" plumbing. I don't think even my biggest turbo snails would plug it up.
I have 2 of the 4 CL returns at the bottom. My original intent was do to exactly what you stated. I may still do that but I have also been considering splitting each one to aim at the side glass and also behind the rock work to keep detritus (sp?) from building up back there. Another reason I may not plumb it to the front of the tank is that I'm putting down 3/4" HDPE (starboard like material), on the bottom to protect the glass because I'm only gonna have an SSB. Why so thick you may ask? Because mcmaster.com has it cheap and then I can use even less sand. I want the HDPE and sand to come flush with the bottom trim of the tank which is 1 7/8", call it 2". Plumbing to the front would require cutting the starboard and running PVC between the cut pieces. I may still do it who knows.
I'm ordering the OM 4 way today and HDPE. I also have to order another ROIII pendant, IC eballast, bulbs, and a 2 or 4 x 54 t5 fixture. I haven't decided if 4 is needed yet but I'm leaning toward no. And the Dart will hopefully be in tomorrow right Rob?? LOL
GoldStripe
New member
And the other 2 returns from the OM 4 way will be over the top of the tank (I think).
The returns from the sump will most likely be on penductors. That combined with the Dart will be well over 30x turnover in the tank which should be plenty
The returns from the sump will most likely be on penductors. That combined with the Dart will be well over 30x turnover in the tank which should be plenty
GoldStripe
New member
thanks nikonsis, it's only been a year!! i've been slackin' on this project. i guess if i didn't have a tank setup already it would have come together faster.
GoldStripe
New member
Okay, I've run into a bump that I haven given much thought to. I'm not sure how to secure my drain pipes into the sump. They are coming over the top of the sump and it has no top. I thought about zip ties and I may have to go that route but how did you all secure the drain lines coming into the sump? I'll try and post a pic showing where they are right now as none of the current pics show them. They are all the way on the left side in the back.
nikonosis
New member
LOL, on our old 75g I used shoelaces because its all I had at the time and I was too lazy to make it look pretty. I really didn't care about it much since I figured we would sell it and get a 180g eventually. Now we have the 180g in storeage and have been waiting forever to move so I can start building it into the wall.
GoldStripe
New member
nikonosis, have you started buying other equipment?
