My 280g Custom upgrade.....

I just got my reservoir tanks. They look to be the same kind as yours, only smaller. The sticker at the bottom warns against hard-plumbing the bottom bulk heads, but to use flex hose instead. Is that not a concern for you, and if not why not?

Thx,

Dave.M
 
there's nothing on my tanks that says that. my tanks were made by norwesco. I've seen people use both hard and flex.

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Mine are by Norwesco, too. The WARNING label at the bottom warns against attaching rigid piping to the bottom outlet. I was just wondering if you were having any issues by having done so.

Thx,

Dave.M
 
interesting. I will read the label again when I get home. I wonder if the weight of the hard pvc is an issue. my tips are coming from the threads of where the pvc fitting screws in.

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Steve...all I can say is D-A-A-A-Y-U-U-U-M...you got skills bro. Love the build!

Here is the funny thing. I remember reading your first post a while ago thinking, hmmm, what can I do to create a similar situation and get my wife to agree to a new protein skimmer? Then I thought, it's my money anyway so I'll just buy it. Then common sense kicked in, happy wife, happy life and you know the rest of the story LOL.

I'll be following more closely going forward as I am also interested in your ATS setup. I'm using biopellets now and have been fighting cyano ever since. Should your system work well I might give it a shot.

That light is kinda cool too!:thumbsup:
 
Steve...all I can say is D-A-A-A-Y-U-U-U-M...you got skills bro. Love the build! Here is the funny thing. I remember reading your first post a while ago thinking, hmmm, what can I do to create a similar situation and get my wife to agree to a new protein skimmer? Then I thought, it's my money anyway so I'll just buy it. Then common sense kicked in, happy wife, happy life and you know the rest of the story LOL. I'll be following more closely going forward as I am also interested in your ATS setup. I'm using biopellets now and have been fighting cyano ever since. Should your system work well I might give it a shot. That light is kinda cool too!:thumbsup:

Hey I know you!!! you should get one of those lights for your tank too :D

Its been a long road and hopefully headed in the right direction.

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Steve, looking good and keep your head up with those trates. They are going and south and will be down in no time with big changes like that. I'm not sure why the tanks would matter with hard plumbing as long as the bulkheads are not being stressed in any way. I've seen tons of tanks similar to this with hard plumbing and is likely the route I'll go when I get two 165 gallon ones. (That pump looks really similar? Had a few miles on it back and forth from our houses;))
 
Thanks Troy. It works great. the pump is a little big for the purpose but I got it as a back up to my main pump and decided to use it on this. the plumbing could be a lot cleaner and I will have to make some changes because I am getting some slow drips on both of the fittings for the bulkheads. I really messed up by not putting unions on after the fitting...oh well. I will make it work.

I tested my nitrates this morning and still holding at a solid 80 ppm so I am gearing up for another 150g change this time.

I'm hoping to incorporate an automatic water change setup to mine as well using my Apex controller.
 
I think these tanks are a must for large systems. Makes life so much easier. I love my apex but will never trust with those three words....Automatic Water Change :spin3:
 
I think these tanks are a must for large systems. Makes life so much easier. I love my apex but will never trust with those three words....Automatic Water Change :spin3:

I'd have to agree with that as float switches/solenoids/pumps are all unreliable. Because I did not trust this method I ended up going with a LiterMeter III setup. I use LiterMeter base module w/ pump attached, remote pump, and water exchange module.
- Base pump used for top off (1 week of dialing in evaporation rate and you don't have to worry about this anymore)
- Remote Pump used for drain to house drain.
- Water exchange module is used for new saltwater and water exchange module will kick it off if it goes above a certain level in sump.

As an additional safe measure my float switches are just a failover and not really used for top off but rather a second preventative measure. Low water alarm will actually kick off return pump and outlet to LiterMeter III and e-mails me so I can access the situation. High water alarm will kick off LiterMeter III outlet and I have a bulkhead installed at top of sump should both of the above failsafes fail which drains to house.

The LiterMeter III pumps have amazing delivery/draw heights so that is not of concern. Each pump can do a total of 99 liters (26) gallons/day so in Steve's 400 gallon system you could do up to 45% water changes in a week:) (With my 1000 gallon system it will meet the needs too and is still able to do 18% water changes a week which I doubt will ever be that high) The pumps also take this set amount you want to change water and divides it over 150 times a day so when you talk about stability, this is one of the best things you can do to a system IMO to stabalize parameters. (Ask yourself if doing a 15-25% water change does not change water chemistry outside of the measurable tests we perform?)

That being said, this is just my opinion but at retail price of $683 for all three pumps and main module, 5 year warranty, they are the best upgrade I've ever made to my system. I recently rebuilt the pumps with new tubing before putting them back to work but this was just proactive maintenance and I was not having any issues with the pumps. Randy Holmes Farley also does a similar method and recommends this 'continuous water change' method over anything in our reefs.

LM III Manual

***Sorry for any derailment or rant Steve:ape:
 
Hey Steve
I started cycling my rocks. When did you start testing for nitrites?

By the way, everything looks good.

Hey Rich,
I started testing a few days after I began the cycle. They showed up pretty quickly. What are you using to start the cycle?
 
I'd have to agree with that as float switches/solenoids/pumps are all unreliable. Because I did not trust this method I ended up going with a LiterMeter III setup. I use LiterMeter base module w/ pump attached, remote pump, and water exchange module.
- Base pump used for top off (1 week of dialing in evaporation rate and you don't have to worry about this anymore)
- Remote Pump used for drain to house drain.
- Water exchange module is used for new saltwater and water exchange module will kick it off if it goes above a certain level in sump.

As an additional safe measure my float switches are just a failover and not really used for top off but rather a second preventative measure. Low water alarm will actually kick off return pump and outlet to LiterMeter III and e-mails me so I can access the situation. High water alarm will kick off LiterMeter III outlet and I have a bulkhead installed at top of sump should both of the above failsafes fail which drains to house.

The LiterMeter III pumps have amazing delivery/draw heights so that is not of concern. Each pump can do a total of 99 liters (26) gallons/day so in Steve's 400 gallon system you could do up to 45% water changes in a week:) (With my 1000 gallon system it will meet the needs too and is still able to do 18% water changes a week which I doubt will ever be that high) The pumps also take this set amount you want to change water and divides it over 150 times a day so when you talk about stability, this is one of the best things you can do to a system IMO to stabalize parameters. (Ask yourself if doing a 15-25% water change does not change water chemistry outside of the measurable tests we perform?)

That being said, this is just my opinion but at retail price of $683 for all three pumps and main module, 5 year warranty, they are the best upgrade I've ever made to my system. I recently rebuilt the pumps with new tubing before putting them back to work but this was just proactive maintenance and I was not having any issues with the pumps. Randy Holmes Farley also does a similar method and recommends this 'continuous water change' method over anything in our reefs.

LM III Manual

***Sorry for any derailment or rant Steve:ape:

Are you an undercover LiterMiter sales rep?????? Thank you for that information. I had thought about going that route but just didn't want to invest the money.
 
Ammonia just like you have. This is my second day. The first day it dropped to .50 so now I'm trying to maintain it at 3.0, so that if it drops within 24 hours, it won't go below 1.0.
 
OK...let me start off by saying I love my apex but here's why I would never use it for an automatic water change. I had turned off the outlet that controls the pump on water change tanks and I just went into the fish room and noticed the pump was still running. So something is wrong with that one outlet and it won't turn off. Fortunately the pump was just recirculating the water in the tank but if I had it pumping into the tank....well lets just say it wouldn't be pretty.
 
That's why you need redundancy. Electronics will fail, it's just a matter of WHEN!? I've had a tank crash because of something I should have had more redundancy in place for and is where my OCD comes from now:D
 
That's why you need redundancy. Electronics will fail, it's just a matter of WHEN!? I've had a tank crash because of something I should have had more redundancy in place for and is where my OCD comes from now:D

You have OCD....no way :spin3:
 
That's why you need redundancy. Electronics will fail, it's just a matter of WHEN!? I've had a tank crash because of something I should have had more redundancy in place for and is where my OCD comes from now:D

Agreed. I have the Same concerns and will only put it in place with layers of redundancy. That said I really like the idea of daily, low volume, water changes.
 
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