My 400G Through-wall "deceptively deep" tank

I don't think they come as ready-to-go units, or at least I don't know of anyone selling them. The best I can find is https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11824 which would need an arduino or other small micro to talk to it using I2C.

Cheers
Simon

Or, you could buy the same control switch device that the LiterMeter uses from Spectrapure...

It basically does all you need - plug the level-controller into the wall, or your reef controller, plug the pump into the level-controller, and it'll only allow the pump to run if the level is below what you want.

Simon.
(Not affiliated with *any* reef companies, btw [grin])
 
Them walls are dry!

Them walls are dry!

Well, the drywall is all done - I now have another room (the fish room) in the house...

drywall-up-3.jpg

... and from the other side...

drywall-up-4.jpg

So the next three days will go a little slowly, at least regarding the fishtanks, because it's mainly outside stuff (stucco repair & painting) but hopefully by the end of the week we'll be ready for finish work :)

Simon
 
First off, thanks for the kind words. And welcome to nathanjohnson09, FishyFishy69, BMMMW, and Hwobarg to the thread :)

Both myself and the wife are getting just a wee bit excited about how things are coming together. It's been a long time planning it, and of course it now seems to be going glacially, but I've just got off "FaceTime" with the finish joinery guy about how to go about trimming the tank... Things are moving, if infuriatingly slowly at the moment :)

Simon
 
So yesterday I was looking at the photo above, and something seemed ... wrong. Then it occurred to me that the plastic at the top of the tank was slanting down at an angle, not coming straight out.

On getting home, I confirmed that the builders hadn't drywalled in front of the top part of the tank that was supposed to be hidden behind the wall - they'd left the entire tank visible through the wall. That's why the plastic was angling down from the top to the sticky-out part...

Sent them an email, got a call back in minutes, explained the issue and they'll fix it today - they'll just remove a bit of drywall from the top and sides (so they have 2x4's exposed to nail the drywall to) and put a new piece in there. It's an easy fix, but I'm glad I caught it early :)

Simon.
 
So, looking into getting a calcium reactor, since I'll want to keep SPS and this is a large tank. I've not had one of these before, so any advice appreciated on whether I've chosen stupid options... Here's what I have so far:

  • GEO/GeosReef Calcium Reactor (CR818)
  • Caribsea ARM Calcium Reactor Media Extra-Coarse, 2 Gallons
  • AquariumPlants.com Electronic CO2 regulator
  • CO2 cylinder holder
  • Aluminium CO2 cylinder, 10 lbs

This is all from aquariumplants.com. I have a few questions:

  1. Is it worth getting the Iwaki MD20 pump (rather than the standard Panworld PX40) for the reactor itself ? What's the benefit for the extra cost ?
  2. It seems I still need a pump to feed the reactor - Geo recommend an MJ1200, but I've heard of people preferring peristaltic pumps. Anyone got any comments on that ?
  3. Anyone know if their cylinder holder fits the 10 lbs tank ? Seems like it'd be a silly thing not to do, but there's no dimensions on the holder that I can see.

Cheers
Simon
 
Have you purchased the Ca reactor yet? If not I would highly recommend you get a hold of Bill Wann and purchase one of his calcium reactors. You can find him on FB or his company is Aquarium Engineering. Very well built equipment.
 
Have you purchased the Ca reactor yet? If not I would highly recommend you get a hold of Bill Wann and purchase one of his calcium reactors. You can find him on FB or his company is Aquarium Engineering. Very well built equipment.

I haven't bought it yet, and Bill's reactors do look pretty good. I'll give him a call tomorrow.

Simon
 
Here is a link to his FB page: https://www.facebook.com/aquariumengineering

As for your other questions above. I don't know to #1.

As for #2 If you have the funds I would go with a Cole Palmer Masterflex pump for feeding the reactor. I used a smaller pump to feed the reactor and over time has issues keeping the output steady which caused swings in my tank.

#3 no clue :)
 
Here is a link to his FB page: https://www.facebook.com/aquariumengineering

As for your other questions above. I don't know to #1.

As for #2 If you have the funds I would go with a Cole Palmer Masterflex pump for feeding the reactor. I used a smaller pump to feed the reactor and over time has issues keeping the output steady which caused swings in my tank.

#3 no clue :)

Yep, I found it, thanks :) There's more on there than there is on his webpage :)

Good information on #2, oh, and welcome to the build-thread :)

Cheers
Simon
 
Nice build, following along. Question as to why not go with the Apex Dos for your auto water changes since you already have an apex system.
 
Nice build, following along. Question as to why not go with the Apex Dos for your auto water changes since you already have an apex system.

Welcome to the build-thread :)

I vowed I'd never use peristaltic pumps again, after having the LiterMeter pumps vary so much on me during the year, which meant my salinity varied, sometimes significantly.

I think the Genesis way of doing things is pretty accurate - it's a fill-to-overflow, so you'll always get the same amount. However ... your comment made me go back and read the DŌS manual, and they actually use stepper motors, not servo motors. That is news to me, and argues for better repeatability.

The DŌS system would also help out by reducing the number of steps I'll have to take - if you remember, my NSW, NFW storage tanks are outside, and they are plumbed into the house via a pipe. I was going to have the LiterMeter maintain 2 gallons at a time (of each) from the standpipes (you can see them in the photo below) into separate temporary storage containers inside the fish-room, so I didn't have to use a self-priming pump to fill the 1-gallon measured genesis containers. If I use DŌS, I could pump directly from the standpipes...

drywall-up-1.jpg

The only downsides I can see for DŌS are:
  • that the pumps have a MTBF of 5000 hours, that's about 2 years for my system if they're being used for water-change.
  • that the manual mentions the pumps "cooling down" after pumping for 4 minutes. I'm not sure how that translates to reliability.

Still, it bears thinking about. Thanks for the suggestion :)
 
So, the builders fixed the error I noted yesterday, now the tank is framed correctly within the wall :)

tank-sticking-out-of-wall.jpg

They actually completely redid the drywall. Most impressed :)

Simon
 
Fun fun stuff.

A question, as I've never had starfire type of glass on an aquarium, but I thought it was supposed to be really clear and not green at all. Unboxing picture http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23874391&postcount=116 shows the styrofoam looked quite green, almost as much on the bottom pane as on the side. Either way tank looks amazing :)

As to the tempered glass, if any window is less than 2 feet from an door or within 18" of the ground it needs to be tempered, this is because if you lean up against it (people have done so when opening doors) with a hand or what not, it's much stronger, and if it does break you don't have jagged shards to cut you up. Be lucky they don't consider fish tanks as part of the home, because IIRC tempered glass is required within 60 inches of wet areas, which your fish room would probably be considered :D
 
Our frag tank has two sides Starphire and one side (and overflow) regular.

It's very easy to tell the difference ;)
 
Back
Top