My 55 gallon reef project

[Ehaze]

thanks for the pics man, it helped me out allot

 

[dcombs44]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11023717#post11023717 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
As long as the main unit (the control center) works, you can build the entire float switch assembly yourself.

Mine is even simpler, without a relay. I have the relays, I've just never bothered building it the safer way.

Yeah. It's hard to know if the control center is working properly or not. I mean my guess would be that if there was a surge, the relay contacts would melt together and the pump would be in a permanent "on" position, but it's the opposite here. I don't know if the relay is bad and there is not a connection being made when the float switch raises or what, but from my understanding, when these things fail, it's typically a flood and not a drought??

The led's are still working on the relay, but now I'm getting no response with the backup float switch. I suppose I could start with buying two new float switches, and if they don't work, I'll cut the transformer off of the unit and buy a new relay. $20 or so, and I'll have all the parts to build a new one. Any other suggestions Marc??

I guess a surge could've also killed the magnets in the float switches as well. Like I said though, I'm not an electrician by any means. These are just guesses.

 

[melev]

When you test it, test it with something weak like a small powerhead. I made the mistake of testing mine with a hairdryer (1500w) and burned it up in the blink of an eye.

If the LEDs are flashing, I have to believe the unit is getting power and the relay is still good. It could be the switches need to be replaced. You can buy them from aquahub.com

 

[dcombs44]

Next topic: I currently have 2 clip on fans on my aquarium to dissipate the heat from my lights. If I want to install a couple of 12v computer fans, what type of transformer/adapter do I need to wire them for a 120v outlet?

 

[melev]

You will need a 12v power supply. What you want to determine is how many mA each fan uses, so you can get one power supply to run them both. That way you don't have to buy two for those fans.

 

[dcombs44]

Sounds good. My canopy has slats across the top leaving a few small openings. If I were to put a fan in each end of the canopy, would I point both of them out of the canopy, have one in and one out, or both in?

 

[melev]

I recommend having both fans blow into the canopy. They will always be drawing in cool air from the room, pushing that into the canopy to blow across the water. The heat will find a way out.

This also prevents the fans from burning out prematurely due to salt creep.

I used to have two small 80mm computer fans blowing down on the water of my 55g. That was enough to keep the tank cool even with MH and VHO lighting all day long. I had to put the fans on a timer so it wouldn't cool the tank too much during the late night hours.

 

[dcombs44]

Very intriguing. I will probably get started on that project in the near future.

I'm considering a possible bump up in the near future. My canopy is currently built for a 75 gallon, and I'm not totally comfortable with my current stand (since I cut out part of the back bottom brace). My wife and I our possibly getting ready to move into our first house and out of the tiny apartment we live in now. Granted, there will be lots of other expenses to deal with first, but all things considered, a bump up to a 75 will be fairly inexpensive and give me many more options as far as aquascaping with the added width. Either which way, we should now have the space to do some of the things that I've been wanting to do for some time now to make my reefkeeping life a bit easier. We'll have a basement to store all of my junk as well as setup a better water storage/mixing system.

It's an idea, but I'd eventually like to get up around 200 gallons or so, so maybe I'll just start saving for that project instead.

 

[melev]

Bigger tanks tend to be more stable, but they cost more in the long run because they need so much stuff.

I miss the 29g I had for all those years. It was so easy and inexpensive to maintain.

 

[dcombs44]

Yeah I know. I don't have to do too much to my 55 right now. It just takes care of itself. If I halfway keep up on water changes, empty the skimmer cup, feed, and take a razor blade to the glass once in a while, it does the rest by itself.

 

[dcombs44]

Marc,

I think I'm finally going to start trying to grow my own phyto. My one question is this: I have an extra 175w metal halide ballast, socket, and bulb lying around. Can I use this to grow it, or will that be too much light/heat and crash it?

Thanks in advance.

 

[melev]

It would probably work, but is way overkill. Phytoplankton grows well with Normal Output (NO) fluorescent lighting, and I think 2' bulbs are 15w or so? 4' bulbs are 35w I think, but used to be 40w.

FYI, some people use the refugium bulb I recommend to grow phyto, setting up bottles in a bucket and clipping that light bulb to the edge of the bucket. That bulb uses 19 to 21w of power.

As long as the phyto doesn't get above 80F, it'll do well. Using a 175w bulb, you may run into heat issues.

 

[dcombs44]

That's what I was afraid of. I may just go out and buy a cheap shop light ballast from Wal-Mart.

Will a standard fluorescent bulb work, or do I need i need a 50/50 bulb or something?

Also, will you link me to your fuge bulb recommendation.

 

[melev]

A daylight NO bulb would be fine. Those are 6500K, and cost less than $5 a bulb.

I have a single 2' bulb that lights up my phyto and brine shrimp cultures.

 

[GuyAFA]

How are you doing with your tomato clown? Does it stir up the sand bed? I've got a tomato or cinnamon clown and it is constantly digging and throwing up sand!

 

[dcombs44]

My tank is becoming mature enough at this point that the sand is saturated with bacteria. It becomes a bit heavier at that point, and seems to settle more quickly when the clown stirs it up. Every few days I "rake" the sand bed to simply level it out, but he/she quickly rearranges it just the way he likes it.

Nature at it's finest I suppose.

 

[jnarowe]

My maroons completely clear the area around their GBTAs. No sand, no rubble, no corals, nada. Anything gets into their "space" they go ballistic.

 

[dcombs44]

My clown spawns all over my tank in the massive anthelia explosion that I'm dealing with. As a matter of fact, tonight may be the night that I finally go in and try to rip it all out. If I can get that accomplished, I may look into getting my clown a nice big bta to replace his old home.

Also, I've had my clown for over 3 years now. Any thoughts on trying to pair him up at this point?

 

[dcombs44]

I spent about 4 hours Friday night removing ALL of the anthelia in my tank. Some of the corals are still rebounding from being out of the water for a bit, but most are coming back nicely. I think it was a great improvement for the looks of the tank. I also removed my plumbing from my Ocean's Motion. I'm going to try to clean up the look of my setup and just have the returns come up over the top. Finally I removed some hydroids that had been spreading a bit. Unfortunately I lost a rock with a few zoas on it. I couldn't get all the hydroids off, and it wasn't worth the risk to keep it.

Anybody have any suggestions for an anemone for my clown since I've now taken away his home? Also, what are the possibilities of trying to pair a clown that's been in my tank for 3 years by itself?

Thanks guys

Oh, and here's a shot of the tank anthelia free:

 

[dcombs44]

......and minutes after I post, I discover the worst of scenarios. My tomato clown has passed on. I guess the loss of his home was too much.

I found him behind my tank all dried up. I put him back in the tank but I'm certain it's far too late. He was very dried up.

I can't help but feel totally responsible for this one. RIP Mater.