My Caribbean Biotope Tank Build
- Thread starter jraker
- Start date
Sweet! Let us know how they work out.
jraker
New member
Well, I changed around the aquascape. Earlier today I started thinking about what I really wanted out of this tank, and I decided that I wanted something that depicts what I saw when I was in Key Largo. When I went diving, my most vivid memory was when we were in a sandy, rubble-strewn flat in the middle of some rocks, slightly lower than them. Image a sandbed beveled into the ground about 10 feet or so. What was really cool about it was that there was this huge overhang. So, I decided to try to replicate that with the new aquascape. Here is is:
As you can see, the left side has an overhang, and the right side has an arch. I like this design much better than the old one. In the center, I will have lots of rubble, and hopefully the jawfish will make its burrow there. I do plan on having lots of gorgonians on the rocks, and some shoal grass in the back and maybe a little in the front. I will have to see. I want this tank to be more gorgonians than anything, so I have decided to not put as much macro in the tank at first. I might order a few species at first, then add some later, but I really want this tank to focus on the back and forth tidal motion of gorgonians. You can really see the movement that I am talking about in this video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3Lui5k5fRg&feature=youtu.be&t=25s. I will try to have some sponges, but I really have never had any before, so I will probably try some ball sponges. I considered a sponge-dominant system, but I came to the realization that sponges are a LOT more work than photosynthetic gorgonians, and really, if I wanted to have sponges, I would make more of a shoreline biotope, not a rubble reef. My jebao RW-8 should be coming soon, and I will experiment with different modes to achieve the tidal current I want.
Otherwise, my rock is in a vinegar bath, because there was so much gunk and dead organisms on it. All I have to get now is sand, a ballast, and then I can start on livestock.
As you can see, the left side has an overhang, and the right side has an arch. I like this design much better than the old one. In the center, I will have lots of rubble, and hopefully the jawfish will make its burrow there. I do plan on having lots of gorgonians on the rocks, and some shoal grass in the back and maybe a little in the front. I will have to see. I want this tank to be more gorgonians than anything, so I have decided to not put as much macro in the tank at first. I might order a few species at first, then add some later, but I really want this tank to focus on the back and forth tidal motion of gorgonians. You can really see the movement that I am talking about in this video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3Lui5k5fRg&feature=youtu.be&t=25s. I will try to have some sponges, but I really have never had any before, so I will probably try some ball sponges. I considered a sponge-dominant system, but I came to the realization that sponges are a LOT more work than photosynthetic gorgonians, and really, if I wanted to have sponges, I would make more of a shoreline biotope, not a rubble reef. My jebao RW-8 should be coming soon, and I will experiment with different modes to achieve the tidal current I want.
Otherwise, my rock is in a vinegar bath, because there was so much gunk and dead organisms on it. All I have to get now is sand, a ballast, and then I can start on livestock.
Nice job on the rock work! Excellent use of your time, while you wait for the rest of your stuff to come in. That overhang is sweet!
I'm particularly interested in seeing how you'll achieve back and forth water motion with just one pump.
I do disagree with some of your statements. First off, gorgonians are HARD to keep, longterm. Even photosynthetic ones require feeding. I've spoken with a guy at my LFS who has kept a gorgonian tank, and he said it was a huge PITA, target feeding them, using Reef Roids. I have two gorgonian frags that I've managed to keep alive, but I've yet to see very impressive growth. I'm avoiding target feeding anything (lazy), except my anemone, so I'm playing around with different zooplankton foods in my "tank brew". If you've had good luck with them in the past, I'd love to hear your secrets to success.
Sponges are fairly easy, if kept out of the light. There is no special feeding required, as all aquariums have plenty of dissolved organics. I do add phytoplankton to the water column for them and other filter feeders. The key to good growth with sponges is to dose sodium silicate, as silicates are sponge's building blocks, and are quickly used up otherwise.
I also question your choice to wait on macros. Without them, you may be in for battle with micro algae, if you feed enough to keep gorgonia happy. With super clean dry rock, you leave a lot of available real estate for algae to colonize. However, in my experience an algae phase is pretty much unavoidable anyway. But having a fast growing caulerpa is a great nutrient sponge, and easily exportable.
Shoal grass should do very well for you. With the height of your tank, you could try manatee grass also. I find seagrasses to have a more pleasing sway in the current than gorgonia, in the confines of aquariums. I think it's because they are less rigid.
Jawfish are great! I'd add more than one. They'll feel more secure and their interactions are very entertaining!
I hope I haven't bee too critical. Since we have similar tanks, I'd like to be helpful. I also hope to learn from your experience! Best of luck!
I'm particularly interested in seeing how you'll achieve back and forth water motion with just one pump.
I do disagree with some of your statements. First off, gorgonians are HARD to keep, longterm. Even photosynthetic ones require feeding. I've spoken with a guy at my LFS who has kept a gorgonian tank, and he said it was a huge PITA, target feeding them, using Reef Roids. I have two gorgonian frags that I've managed to keep alive, but I've yet to see very impressive growth. I'm avoiding target feeding anything (lazy), except my anemone, so I'm playing around with different zooplankton foods in my "tank brew". If you've had good luck with them in the past, I'd love to hear your secrets to success.
Sponges are fairly easy, if kept out of the light. There is no special feeding required, as all aquariums have plenty of dissolved organics. I do add phytoplankton to the water column for them and other filter feeders. The key to good growth with sponges is to dose sodium silicate, as silicates are sponge's building blocks, and are quickly used up otherwise.
I also question your choice to wait on macros. Without them, you may be in for battle with micro algae, if you feed enough to keep gorgonia happy. With super clean dry rock, you leave a lot of available real estate for algae to colonize. However, in my experience an algae phase is pretty much unavoidable anyway. But having a fast growing caulerpa is a great nutrient sponge, and easily exportable.
Shoal grass should do very well for you. With the height of your tank, you could try manatee grass also. I find seagrasses to have a more pleasing sway in the current than gorgonia, in the confines of aquariums. I think it's because they are less rigid.
Jawfish are great! I'd add more than one. They'll feel more secure and their interactions are very entertaining!
I hope I haven't bee too critical. Since we have similar tanks, I'd like to be helpful. I also hope to learn from your experience! Best of luck!
jraker
New member
I understand what you are saying, and I was doing a little wishful thinking, maybe a little too much wishful thinking. I didn't think over my choice of when to add macros, and I now realize that I definitely should add stuff like caulerpa earlier on.
I actually just received my pump today. Here it is:
It has a similar controller to the Vortech MP-10, which I have fooled around with on my other tank, and with some trial and error, I actually was able to make a back-and-forth motion with it. I will try to fool around with the new RW-8 in a tub filled with water, and I will report my findings.
I also got about 6 pounds of tonga branch rock (which I will smash up) and some rubble. I think it will be enough for the jawfish.
I actually just received my pump today. Here it is:
It has a similar controller to the Vortech MP-10, which I have fooled around with on my other tank, and with some trial and error, I actually was able to make a back-and-forth motion with it. I will try to fool around with the new RW-8 in a tub filled with water, and I will report my findings.
I also got about 6 pounds of tonga branch rock (which I will smash up) and some rubble. I think it will be enough for the jawfish.
jraker
New member
Well... Crap.
I got my Metal Halide bulb today, an Ushio 250w DE HQI 10k, exactly what I need for my reflector. The only problem is that it doesn't fit.
It may be a little hard to see in this picture, but the bulb doesn't go in all the way. My guess is that because the bulb is an Ushio and not a Hamilton (brand of my reflector), it isn't made for my reflector and doesn't fit. all I need is about half a millimeter more, but I just can't get it to fit. I guess I will have to order another bulb, which is made for my reflector. I feel stupid, because I remember hearing "Buy the bulb made for your reflector" in videos, and I didn't take that advice. I guess the best way to learn from mistakes is experience, though, and this is just another lesson that contributes to my future knowledge.
I got my Metal Halide bulb today, an Ushio 250w DE HQI 10k, exactly what I need for my reflector. The only problem is that it doesn't fit.
It may be a little hard to see in this picture, but the bulb doesn't go in all the way. My guess is that because the bulb is an Ushio and not a Hamilton (brand of my reflector), it isn't made for my reflector and doesn't fit. all I need is about half a millimeter more, but I just can't get it to fit. I guess I will have to order another bulb, which is made for my reflector. I feel stupid, because I remember hearing "Buy the bulb made for your reflector" in videos, and I didn't take that advice. I guess the best way to learn from mistakes is experience, though, and this is just another lesson that contributes to my future knowledge.
Should be correct size sometimes it takes a bit of delicate "umpf" to get them to click in right. They also don't always look like they are all they way in, but they will fire just fine.
Brand shouldn't matter I am running 2 ushios in my hammy fixture. Try and install the bulb again.
I have always wanted to do a Caribbean turtle grass/ gorgonian tank. Looks good so far.
Subscribed!
Brand shouldn't matter I am running 2 ushios in my hammy fixture. Try and install the bulb again.
I have always wanted to do a Caribbean turtle grass/ gorgonian tank. Looks good so far.
Subscribed!
What he said ^!
A half millimeter is nothing. Bending, filing, modifying are all part of the game! Try pushing down and out at the ends of the reflector, to get that half millimeter.
A half millimeter is nothing. Bending, filing, modifying are all part of the game! Try pushing down and out at the ends of the reflector, to get that half millimeter.
+1
also some brands of bulbs' ceramic ends are different size, they will not sit in the slots and be flush with the fixtures ceramic sockets, they will stick out a little like in your picture.
As long as they fire and you don't hear any arc or buzzing you are ready to roll.
jraker
New member
You guys were right! I fiddled with it a bit, and found that I needed to move one of the sockets.
I had to unscrew the screws holding it down and move it forward a bit, and once I put the reflector back together, the bulb went in perfectly.
I got it all hooked up to the ballast:
All I need is the wire that goes into the input to get it running, because the ballast didn't come with it:
The AC unit in my house decided to blow out, so dealing with temperature in all my other tanks in the summer could be a nightmare. Luckily my reef tank is in the basement, but my planted tank is upstairs where it is the warmest.
I had to unscrew the screws holding it down and move it forward a bit, and once I put the reflector back together, the bulb went in perfectly.
I got it all hooked up to the ballast:
All I need is the wire that goes into the input to get it running, because the ballast didn't come with it:
The AC unit in my house decided to blow out, so dealing with temperature in all my other tanks in the summer could be a nightmare. Luckily my reef tank is in the basement, but my planted tank is upstairs where it is the warmest.
That's great! I'm glad you didn't have to send it back.
The ballast not having a power cord is weak! Maybe it was an oversight. I'd contact the vender and ask. Otherwise, hardware store.
The ballast not having a power cord is weak! Maybe it was an oversight. I'd contact the vender and ask. Otherwise, hardware store.
Hey jraker, since your tank is around 1/3 water volume as mine, I'd dose 1/3 sodium silicate as I do. Farley wrote a great article on silicates, which is where I got my dosage, I think. Read that first.
So I'm guessing you're considering sponges for your new tank? Cool!
So I'm guessing you're considering sponges for your new tank? Cool!
jraker
New member
Yeah I sure am going to get some sponges. I read the article, and it was pretty helpful.
Sponges are great but maybe not for a new tank. Give it a few months. That'll give you time to get through the algae phase, get your algae crew figured out, get some macros growing and some fish added.
Maybe the best way to start with sponges is to get a small amount of farmed Florida live rock. Gulf Live Rock (.com) will sell you as little as 10 pounds for $60, shipping included. That's what I got, and a good variety of sponges hitched along. As I got better at feeding them (phytoplankton) and dosing for them (sodium silicate), these "test sponges" grew bigger, and I knew I was providing favorable conditions for any decorative sponges I wanted to add.
Really, one of the biggest challenges with sponges is finding enough shade in our too evenly-lit aquariums. I purposely left the right end of my tank dimly-lit for sponges and such. You could do something similar with your metal halide setup. Maybe light the middle, and leave each end dimmer. Plus you have that overhang!
I really enjoy having some variation in light levels in the tank. "Perfect" lighting is boring and artificial. Shadows are your friend…
Maybe the best way to start with sponges is to get a small amount of farmed Florida live rock. Gulf Live Rock (.com) will sell you as little as 10 pounds for $60, shipping included. That's what I got, and a good variety of sponges hitched along. As I got better at feeding them (phytoplankton) and dosing for them (sodium silicate), these "test sponges" grew bigger, and I knew I was providing favorable conditions for any decorative sponges I wanted to add.
Really, one of the biggest challenges with sponges is finding enough shade in our too evenly-lit aquariums. I purposely left the right end of my tank dimly-lit for sponges and such. You could do something similar with your metal halide setup. Maybe light the middle, and leave each end dimmer. Plus you have that overhang!
I really enjoy having some variation in light levels in the tank. "Perfect" lighting is boring and artificial. Shadows are your friend…
jraker
New member
I agree with you 100% on letting the tank rest for a few months. That is what I was planning on, so I can get pods and macro established before I start adding more difficult to keep organisms. I will see how the tank goes, and I might or might not end up buying more live rock, depending how everything goes in a few months.
My tank has a big brace in the center, so I will have to see how my MH will be positioned so there isn't a big ugly shadow in the tank.
I got my sand a few days ago:
I got 20 pounds oolite, 20 pounds original grade, and 40 pounds crushed coral. I also have a bag of about 6 ponds of rubble my jawfish can us to burrow. I ordered so much sand they had to ship it in two different shipments lol.
I also changed around the aquascape, and now I have two different options. On each I have two overhangs instead of one, but the positions of the overhangs are switched.
Here is option A:
And option B:
Sorry, they aren't the best quality pics. Option A has the right overhang in the front, and B has it in the back. Which do you like better?
My tank has a big brace in the center, so I will have to see how my MH will be positioned so there isn't a big ugly shadow in the tank.
I got my sand a few days ago:
I got 20 pounds oolite, 20 pounds original grade, and 40 pounds crushed coral. I also have a bag of about 6 ponds of rubble my jawfish can us to burrow. I ordered so much sand they had to ship it in two different shipments lol.
I also changed around the aquascape, and now I have two different options. On each I have two overhangs instead of one, but the positions of the overhangs are switched.
Here is option A:
And option B:
Sorry, they aren't the best quality pics. Option A has the right overhang in the front, and B has it in the back. Which do you like better?
Either one! If all goes well it won't make a lot of difference. They'll be covered in macros!
That's cool you got multiple sand grades. I did too. That's what I saw snorkeling.
That's cool you got multiple sand grades. I did too. That's what I saw snorkeling.
jraker
New member
I got my wire so I can turn on my metal halide. I turned it on as a test.
Here is is off:
And here it is on. No, I didn't turn off the lights, it is just that bright.
I like this light. It is way more powerful than any of my other lights, all of which are LEDs. It looks a lot less blue in person.
Here is is off:
And here it is on. No, I didn't turn off the lights, it is just that bright.
I like this light. It is way more powerful than any of my other lights, all of which are LEDs. It looks a lot less blue in person.
Nice! So what's next? You ready to build it up?
