My Chiller Setup **Lots of pictures**
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dgasmd
New member
You are not alone buddy. FPL has made record profits in the last few months and yet everyone's bill doubled int he last few months too. You have to love the hypocracy and cynisism of our political and goverment system. I think if you guys saw my bill you would get a heart attack :lol: :lol: :lol: The only thing that makes me feel better is that my friends is twice as much as mine on a house only 15-20% bigger than mine but on the beach. He doesn't even have a tank and has the benefit of the nicest breeze a man can get. Too bad he doesn't like the breeze and prefer the AC.:lol: :lol:
well depending on what size room and your windows and insulation and thickness of dry wall and way too many other factors. a good rule of thumb that works well in florida is to size the room air conditioner 1 ton per 500 square feet. if you have alot of windows and high ceilings and a massive amount of metal halides you may want to do something closer to 4oo square feet per ton.
if you have 250 watt or lower halides I think cooling the room to about 76 or lower you can acheive temperatures below 82 pretty easily. I like 2 fans under 90 cfm blowing in one end of the canopy and the same size holes on the other end to let the air out. higher cfm fans get pretty loud. I prefer around 70 cfm for noise level but when choosing fans they normally list decibel levels. you can buy fan gaurds to make the holes on the end without fans look nice. alot of people put fans on back or in the top. I personally think blowing the air across the bulbs helps remove some heat a little faster but I could be totally wrong . also keeping bulbs cooler when running extends there life at least a little bit.
I would also look into some of the things that are making your tank get heated. mag drive pumps are going to add more heat than a pump with a wet end and motor end. I removed 1 2000 gph mag type pump and replaced it with a 2500 gph sequence dart and the tank temp dropped over 2 degrees F . I made no other changes and inside my home is still 76 just like always.
dan what pumps and lights do you have? do you have any of your water like a sump or refugium in a garage or outside?
if you have 250 watt or lower halides I think cooling the room to about 76 or lower you can acheive temperatures below 82 pretty easily. I like 2 fans under 90 cfm blowing in one end of the canopy and the same size holes on the other end to let the air out. higher cfm fans get pretty loud. I prefer around 70 cfm for noise level but when choosing fans they normally list decibel levels. you can buy fan gaurds to make the holes on the end without fans look nice. alot of people put fans on back or in the top. I personally think blowing the air across the bulbs helps remove some heat a little faster but I could be totally wrong . also keeping bulbs cooler when running extends there life at least a little bit.
I would also look into some of the things that are making your tank get heated. mag drive pumps are going to add more heat than a pump with a wet end and motor end. I removed 1 2000 gph mag type pump and replaced it with a 2500 gph sequence dart and the tank temp dropped over 2 degrees F . I made no other changes and inside my home is still 76 just like always.
dan what pumps and lights do you have? do you have any of your water like a sump or refugium in a garage or outside?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Rgibson.... I don't think that is accurate info. Just take a look at Sanjays website. Wattage, Current and voltage are listed for all tested bulbs. A typical 150 DE draws around 190 Watts... and a typical 250 draws around 300 watts on mag ballasts. On Electronics ballasts they both draw even less.
You can likely find many cases where the lumens (or par) PER WATT is better... but that does not mean a 150 DRAWS more or gets HOTTER than a 250. It just means that the efficiency may not be the same.
You can likely find many cases where the lumens (or par) PER WATT is better... but that does not mean a 150 DRAWS more or gets HOTTER than a 250. It just means that the efficiency may not be the same.
DaveBrader
Registered Member
Rob, no matter what pump you use to send flow thru the chiller, it is either flowing or it is not. If you put the flow switch in the pipe feeding the chiller, and there is no flow, it will shut down the chiller before the chiller is damaged...
Dave
Dave
DaveBrader
Registered Member
One more thing. Even if you use your main circulation pump to also feed the chiller, the flow switch in the feed pipe to the chiller will shut down the chiller whenever there is no flow there. So, if you shut down your main pump when feeding, when you shut down the main pump it will also automatically shut down the chiller at the same time. Actually a nice feature I think..
Dave
Dave
yeah dave I understand the concept very well we use them in the industry and call them sail switches when used in the air. I wasn't thinking you were using it as a safety measure. I try to mount all the evaporators horizontally so that if for some reason the pump stops the barrell will dump half the water out and not be able to freeze enough to bust the pvc.
do you have a website for pvc flow switches? most i have seen are brass.
do you have a website for pvc flow switches? most i have seen are brass.
DaveBrader
Registered Member
Sure, here ya go...
Dave
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/1104/cid/4275
Dave
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/1104/cid/4275
RGibson, thank you for directing me to this site. I have read it all and will be building my own system. I will have approx. 400 gallons of water moving in my setup. Just to confirm, if i go with a 1 ton unit with a 12,000btu coil/barrell, I can accomplish 2 things....
I can run the system at 220, therefore dropping my amprage to about 4 amps (verses the 7 - 9 amps on 110 systems)..........and..........with the right flow, it should run alot less.
Also, I would Have a setup that can handle a much larger tank in the future.
Let me know if i am correct please.
I can run the system at 220, therefore dropping my amprage to about 4 amps (verses the 7 - 9 amps on 110 systems)..........and..........with the right flow, it should run alot less.
Also, I would Have a setup that can handle a much larger tank in the future.
Let me know if i am correct please.
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