My Chiller Setup **Lots of pictures**
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This is just what I have been looking for. Great work and very clear explanations. I am going to do this project and maybe I can build a few and see if I can pass on some of the costs.
It really is a good system and while replacing the compressor/condenser may not be as easy as changing a light bulb, it will still be easier than replacing the entire chiller. AND rejecting the heat outdoors is a HUGE plus where I live.
Thanks!
It really is a good system and while replacing the compressor/condenser may not be as easy as changing a light bulb, it will still be easier than replacing the entire chiller. AND rejecting the heat outdoors is a HUGE plus where I live.
Thanks!
DaveBrader
Registered Member
There is a flow switch that can control the AC unit. If there is flow from the pump it powers the unit, if the flow stops, the electricity to the unit shuts off. I think you can even by one at Marinedepot, they sell them to go with chillers.
Dave
Dave
it may be old and I may be getting old but I am still around and so are the chillers I designed and built.
Dan if you want to cool and dehumidify the fish room you need to either use your home air conditioner or add a dedicated air conditioner and or dehumidifier for that purpose. at least this is what I would do. then have a dedicated chiller for the aquarium.
now if you want to know what you can pretty easily do is since you have a 1 ton airconditioner or condensor is to use a chiller barrell for say a 1/2 ton and an evaporator coil and fan rated for a 1/2 ton. or 1/4 and 3/4 . whatever you do it needs to add up to 1 ton of refrigeration. air speed needs to be right and water flow needs to be right. too high of either and you will have too high pressures and overheat the compressor. too low and the opposite happens and you get liquid back to a vapor pump. so what I think you are asking can be done but I really don't think it will be pretty. the same thermostat you use for the chiller can be wired to control everything. of course it will be hard to control both and keep consistent is another reason to do 2 seperate units.
the good thing about cooling the tank is you will have less evaporation at lower tank temps. you can also buy a thermostat for your home airconditioner that will use your existing a/c system to dehumidify if you have it in your home. there are alot of cool toys out there.
dave most people , well at least most people I know use the chiller pump for circulation also so that switch wouldn't do much good in that case.
Dan if you want to cool and dehumidify the fish room you need to either use your home air conditioner or add a dedicated air conditioner and or dehumidifier for that purpose. at least this is what I would do. then have a dedicated chiller for the aquarium.
now if you want to know what you can pretty easily do is since you have a 1 ton airconditioner or condensor is to use a chiller barrell for say a 1/2 ton and an evaporator coil and fan rated for a 1/2 ton. or 1/4 and 3/4 . whatever you do it needs to add up to 1 ton of refrigeration. air speed needs to be right and water flow needs to be right. too high of either and you will have too high pressures and overheat the compressor. too low and the opposite happens and you get liquid back to a vapor pump. so what I think you are asking can be done but I really don't think it will be pretty. the same thermostat you use for the chiller can be wired to control everything. of course it will be hard to control both and keep consistent is another reason to do 2 seperate units.
the good thing about cooling the tank is you will have less evaporation at lower tank temps. you can also buy a thermostat for your home airconditioner that will use your existing a/c system to dehumidify if you have it in your home. there are alot of cool toys out there.
dave most people , well at least most people I know use the chiller pump for circulation also so that switch wouldn't do much good in that case.
I agree with you Rob in that "it won't be pretty". Split DX refrigeration systems are fairly common but you really have to know what you are doing and for this size/type of application it just isn't worth it.
Dan, use the condenser for your chiller barrel and get a small window AC unit for $140 to cool/dehumidify the room. It will be much less costly and it will work. Can't afford that right now? Get a second job for a week or work some overtime, it will still be less costly than doing what you are suggesting.
Good luck and keep us informed on what you end up doing.
Dan, use the condenser for your chiller barrel and get a small window AC unit for $140 to cool/dehumidify the room. It will be much less costly and it will work. Can't afford that right now? Get a second job for a week or work some overtime, it will still be less costly than doing what you are suggesting.
Good luck and keep us informed on what you end up doing.
hey rgibson been a while. things are pretty busy here right now and all I want to do is get a rain break to ride my new motorcycle. still working and working some more since it's the season. looking like it may slow down sometime soon but I think I have been saying that for 4 or 5 years.
wanna elaborate on your efficient 180? I am all about making my tank run cheaper. that's why I am running a small pump and tunzes and t5's. no chiller or halides so that is a step in the right direction. what tips you got for me?
wanna elaborate on your efficient 180? I am all about making my tank run cheaper. that's why I am running a small pump and tunzes and t5's. no chiller or halides so that is a step in the right direction. what tips you got for me?
robthom my efficient 180
the return pump is a eheim 1260 with 635 gph
flow for the 180 two tunze 6100 3175 gph each with a multicontroller 7095
lights 3--175 watt ushio halide bulbs with icecap electronic ballasts run for 8 hours a day
2 fans 55 cfm blowing across the tank from each end .
The fans have flaps to force the air down across the water to help bring the water tem down ,i do not used a chiller to keep the water tem under control. The water tem stays at 78 deg to 79 deg. Room tem 74 deg
All of this helps to keep the ele bill down low.
the return pump is a eheim 1260 with 635 gph
flow for the 180 two tunze 6100 3175 gph each with a multicontroller 7095
lights 3--175 watt ushio halide bulbs with icecap electronic ballasts run for 8 hours a day
2 fans 55 cfm blowing across the tank from each end .
The fans have flaps to force the air down across the water to help bring the water tem down ,i do not used a chiller to keep the water tem under control. The water tem stays at 78 deg to 79 deg. Room tem 74 deg
All of this helps to keep the ele bill down low.
gotcha. my temp stays 78-80 with the house at 76. I go up to 78 when we are at work in the house and back down around bedtime. she has to have it cool. our electric company made a profit of 87 million last quarter. had the nerve to say we were getting extra electricity for free before they put in digital meters. our bill over doubled from about $140 to $300 a month. just by them changing the meter. a bunch of criminals if you ask me. I could have sworn this was america and we have laws against price gouging and monopolizing. if it goes over $300 I am selling the tank. I just can't justify the expense of all that electricity and corals and salt and bulbs. if it wasn't for my fiancee I would sell it today.
maxxII
Super Housemonkey!
Interesting note about electricity usage....
My wife had a severe sinus chronic sinus infection and surgery was required to clear it up. The doctor told us to run AC and change air filters frequently until winter to prevent re-infection via allergies. He saw the looks in our faces as we contemplated the increase in electrical usage, and told us since it was requried for a medical reason, we could use our electrical bill as a tax deduction. I dont know how much we'll get back, but its something to keep in mind.
Nick
My wife had a severe sinus chronic sinus infection and surgery was required to clear it up. The doctor told us to run AC and change air filters frequently until winter to prevent re-infection via allergies. He saw the looks in our faces as we contemplated the increase in electrical usage, and told us since it was requried for a medical reason, we could use our electrical bill as a tax deduction. I dont know how much we'll get back, but its something to keep in mind.
Nick
robthorn i pay a flat rate for 12 mo no matter how much ele i used,this help me to try many ideas without having the ele bill going up . The cost per mo $114.00 . I have tried many things on the air conditioing so have work some have not.The house is 1600 sq foot and i used a 24,ooo btu condenser with a 30,ooo btu evaporator,air flow 370 cfm per 12,ooo btu
must be nice on the electric bill so cheap. florida is not worth it more and more everyday.
R that sounds a little low on the cfm there. not alot but some. do you have another fan speed you could try? 450-500 is about normal around here because of all the sun . cools faster using less electricity but since you are not caring about that, the slower speed may help remove a little extra humidity. is that set up considered a 12 seer? your using a txv right? have you seen the new 13 seer units yet? I think they are trying to kill us with the size and weight of those things. no noise from 5 ft on anything design or made by carrier. very nice. you would probably need at least a 36000 btu unit here probably more for that size house. 500 sq.ft per ton without alot of windows or vaulted ceilings and as low as 400 with that stuff.
R that sounds a little low on the cfm there. not alot but some. do you have another fan speed you could try? 450-500 is about normal around here because of all the sun . cools faster using less electricity but since you are not caring about that, the slower speed may help remove a little extra humidity. is that set up considered a 12 seer? your using a txv right? have you seen the new 13 seer units yet? I think they are trying to kill us with the size and weight of those things. no noise from 5 ft on anything design or made by carrier. very nice. you would probably need at least a 36000 btu unit here probably more for that size house. 500 sq.ft per ton without alot of windows or vaulted ceilings and as low as 400 with that stuff.
you must be very well insulated. something I need to get finished here. my tstat is a carrier with a built in humidistat. without using the humidity control it stays around 54-60% so i am happy. the stat will run your electric heat and your cooling at the same time to maintain temp and humidity if you set it up like that. honeywell has a very similar model.
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