My DIY Calcium Reactor

[quikenuff]

I built this reactor about a week ago. wanted to run it for a week before I posted. As you can see it's design was heavily influenced by the Korallin Reactors. I used 3/16, 1/4 sheet acrylic and 5" OD Tube. the bubble counter is 7/8" OD acylic tube. All of the plumbing was purchased at Lowe's and is 1/2" CPVC fittings. The pump is an Ehiem 1048. Tell me what you think, anything I could have done better, and if you have any questions about the build I'll try to answer.

thanks,
Quik

 

[xJake]

Great looking reactor. Nice touch with the bubble counter; I've been wondering how to accomplish that more easily. What kind of screws did you use to bolt down the top plate? If they're not high quality stainless steel or titanium then they'll probably corrode and cause you some problems down the road. I'm guessing you used a miter saw to make the octagon shape. Nice way to avoid trying to make circles and it looks decent too. I'll have to remember that for when I build my reactors for my new tank.

 

[RichConley]

how much cash/time did the thing set you back?

 

[quikenuff]

I did use SS screws, I could have gone with teflon but I thought they would cause more problems than replacing the stainless if/when they do corrod. Plus the stainless was cheaper. I did use a miter saw for the octagon cuts. The base and top mounting plate for the main chamber are 2 pieces of 3/16 acrylic glued together like a sandwich. The first piece having a 5"hole cut out before glueing. I didn't want to just butt glue the tube the bottem plate.

 

[quikenuff]

Total investment was just under $200 including tools I didn't have like the 5" hole saw which was $40.00 by itself and the pump was $55.00. the acrylic costs were minimal, there is a plastic shop about 30 min away, so I was able to purchase the acrylic I needed from there cut offs.

Build time about 2 days, waiting for glue to dry. Planning and accumulating the parts took about a week.

If I had to build another, it could be done in a day.

 

[manderx]

if you put any pressure on it, i wouldn't trust the vinyl hose connections. a little pressure is good since gas (co2) dissolves better under pressure. you might be able to get a better seal on the pvc side, if you carefully hit the tip with a lighter, you can get it to curl back just a little and form a mini-barb. works *great* on 1/4" poly, and ok on pvc. dunno about cpvc though. make sure it's a very clean cut (might have to hit with a razor blade if it has sawmarks).

can't tell for sure which you used, but flat gaskets are notorious for leaking, o-rings work much better.

if you are going to make more, get a router for sure. then a jasper hole jig for it to make any size hole you want. they are magic and you will find all sorts of uses for it.

 

[khoivo1]

how did you do the flange?? diy or buy,,look great tjhanks

 

[quikenuff]

If I think I know what flange you re talking about, the piece on top that the tops plate bolts to?

I cut a 5" hole in a 7"x7" piece of 3/16 acrylic then sandwhich glued another 7"x7" on top of that. Then put the 5" inset on top of the tube and glued it in place. Once the glue set I drilled a hole large enough for a trim router bit then routed the innerhole.

Dose that make sence?

 

[stugray]

quikenuff,

great build! You think very much like I do ;-)

HD & Lowes carry 1/4-20 Nylon bolts. I tap the acrylic & thread right in. Saves the wingnut, and NO chance of corrosion.

One thing that has always bothered me about that design: How do you prime the pump, and will it restart every time after power outage?

Also - I have had my CO2 regulator run amok and blow all of the water out of my reactor. Luckily I used the same Eheim, and it wont burn up if run while dry. The couple of trys with a rio PH, and not so lucky - DOH! ( burnt smell & bulged body )

Stu

 

[mflamb]

Don't use nylon bolts, too much stretch. Get pvc bolts and nuts.

 

[quikenuff]

The initial priming of the pump is easier than it looks, I gravity fed the chamber before putting it into circulation. After the chamber fills so does the pump. My initial tests proved positive for power failure, the pump restarted with no issues. I can't say what would happen after an extended outage, say 2-3 hours, the water level in the chamber could possibly drain to low and need to be reprimmer.

I like the PVC bolts, but this build required that the screws be counter sunk in the top plate. Do they sell/make PVC screws?

Another part of this build was trying to keep all the parts available from a local Hardware store and the plastics shop. The only part I had to order on line was the Pump, but could have gotten it @ Petsmart and paid a few bucks more.

 

[scott11]

does the output from the pump go all the way to the bottom of the tube? Do you have any sort of diffuser at the bottom?

 

[Siffy]

Since you can get the acrylic locally for cheap, I'd recommend a 2nd chamber for degassing. It helps bring the pH of the reactor up closer to tank level so the tank's pH is more stable and it uses the CO2 more effectively. I believe that's what mflamb has shown in his 2nd picture. It's a very simple addition compared to the nice build you've already done.

 

[mflamb]

That's exactly why I have the second chamber.

 

[quikenuff]

Yes, the pump's output goes sdown the tube. The tube going from the top to the bottem does have a diffser plate at the bottem. I actually used a the drip tray from an old wetdry, I used the same 5" hole saw to cut out a disc and sanded down the outside for a tight fit.


As far as the 2nd chamber goes, would I need a larger pump to supply both chambers?

 

[quikenuff]

mflamb, Where do you get your acrylic? Plastics America in Brandon?

 

[Siffy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12695883#post12695883 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by quikenuff
As far as the 2nd chamber goes, would I need a larger pump to supply both chambers?

No, look at mflamb's 2nd picture. Notice it just has 2 RO tubes sticking out of the second chamber on the left. One of them is the effluent of the first chamber, and it should enter the second chamber and continue downward to the bottom. The other tube is the effluent of that chamber and goes to the tank. The flow through the chambers is the drip rate. It doesn't need to recirc, it needs slow movement and a lot of time so the CO2 is as fully utilized as possible. Make sense?

 

[FFrankie]

Good job buddy

 

[SHOmuchFUN]

What is the 4th input/output for?
What did you use for gasket material for the chamber?

 

[quikenuff]

The valve coming straight out of the top plate is a bleed valve used for filling the chamber and releasing excess CO2. The gasket material is made out of black shelf liner.


Quik