My diy kalk reactor.

[d0ughb0y]

Harry, it is made by via aqua, available at any online store that sells via aqua products.
Eddie, it is probably possible to modify the unit by extending the cylinder, either by using white or clear pvc. The best part is, if kalkwasser is not able to handle the load anymore, one can easily switch this to a calcium reactor again by simply adding a CO2 tank and changing the media, delaying the upfront cost of getting a CO2 tank, regulator, etc.

 

[Ismellikefish]

I have been toying with the idea of the kalc reactor and I was thinking of adding it to my Auto topoff. My idea might help your problem ( if it works )

Currently I have a small bin that my RODI is connected to with a dual float valve and duel solenoids and then another float valve in my sump that is connected to a little pump in my RODI bin.

Now my idea was not having an external pump on the kalc reactor but keeping the one I have in the ro/di bin and put the input line on the bottom of the kalc reactor and just have the pump do 2 things: Add fresh rodi to the unit ( then forces kalc mix out top to the sump ) and stir the kalc mix on the bottom.

My topoff clicks on for a few seconds everyone 15-20ish minutes should be enough to keep it stirred but not to much and not have to worry about leaking pumps ( or it going bad from kalc mix ) This also has a safety feature of not adding to much kalc to your system if something gets stuck ( only what is in the small bin )

 

[d0ughb0y]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14407969#post14407969 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ismellikefish

Now my idea was not having an external pump on the kalc reactor but keeping the one I have in the ro/di bin and put the input line on the bottom of the kalc reactor and just have the pump do 2 things: Add fresh rodi to the unit ( then forces kalc mix out top to the sump ) and stir the kalc mix on the bottom.

The no mixing pump is the same as the tunze osmolator calcium dispenser I mentioned earlier (sells for over $100 for a bottle with 2 holes lol). I found several references to this on the web and have tried this using 2 liter soda bottle. I think the stronger the pressure of the rodi pump, the better it will stir the settled mixture. I use a peristaltic pump, and find that I have to manually shake the bottle after a week (otherwise the top part becomes less milky), which is not so bad. I think most who do the no mixer pump reactor do manually shake the container from time to time.

 

[Ismellikefish]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14408120#post14408120 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by d0ughb0y
The no mixing pump is the same as the tunze osmolator calcium dispenser I mentioned earlier (sells for over $100 for a bottle with 2 holes lol). I found several references to this on the web and have tried this using 2 liter soda bottle. I think the stronger the pressure of the rodi pump, the better it will stir the settled mixture. I use a peristaltic pump, and find that I have to manually shake the bottle after a week (otherwise the top part becomes less milky), which is not so bad. I think most who do the no mixer pump reactor do manually shake the container from time to time.

I wonder if just having a stronger ro/di pump would fix that > A strong burst every 15ish minutes sounds like it would keep it "stirred" enough. I will probly throw it together in the next couple of weeks and see how it goes, will post when I get it done.

*edit > Lawl, that tunze is almost the exact same thing. Dang it, now I can't patent it :lol:

 

[One Dumm Hikk]

The best "water" from a Kalk Reactor isn't milky. Its clear. If you shake the container and wait about 15 minutes, the extra Kalk in the water will settle and condense out. The clear liquid (I think its called supernatant but don't remember) is saturated. When its still milky, it has extra kalk in it and can be bad on the system. Its why you see timers on Kalk reactors. So that it isn't stirred all the time making the fluid milky/over saturated with Kalk.

 

[porschefan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14410848#post14410848 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by One Dumm Hikk
The best "water" from a Kalk Reactor isn't milky. Its clear. If you shake the container and wait about 15 minutes, the extra Kalk in the water will settle and condense out. The clear liquid (I think its called supernatant but don't remember) is saturated. When its still milky, it has extra kalk in it and can be bad on the system. Its why you see timers on Kalk reactors. So that it isn't stirred all the time making the fluid milky/over saturated with Kalk.

Pretty much what i have just read too.

If you use the Via Aqua thing, surely it will keep stirring the Kalk, which is precisely what you don't want, at least not during top-off. If it was a reactor with CO2 then no problem, otherwise i think the Kalk version would have to be on a timer that didn't coincide with topoff.

 

[Ismellikefish]

You want it stirred so it doesn't paste up on you, not to deliver the "milk" to your sump. That is y it is tall and not a short cylinder, the bottom can be a little milky but the top portion is what you want clear and NOT milky.

The balance you will have to attain is making sure it gets stirred enough without doing it so much is to make the whole thing milky.

 

[coryjac0b]

you think 3 minutes every 6 hours is to much, being stirred with a maxi jet 1200?

 

[d0ughb0y]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14417064#post14417064 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by porschefan
Pretty much what i have just read too.

If you use the Via Aqua thing, surely it will keep stirring the Kalk, which is precisely what you don't want, at least not during top-off. If it was a reactor with CO2 then no problem, otherwise i think the Kalk version would have to be on a timer that didn't coincide with topoff.

I mentioned to plug in the via aqua to a timer, nobody says to keep the pump running all the time.

 

[d0ughb0y]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14417175#post14417175 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ismellikefish
You want it stirred so it doesn't paste up on you, not to deliver the "milk" to your sump. That is y it is tall and not a short cylinder, the bottom can be a little milky but the top portion is what you want clear and NOT milky.

The balance you will have to attain is making sure it gets stirred enough without doing it so much is to make the whole thing milky.

I think the whole idea of a kalk reactor is there will be no paste. if your kalk reactor is ending up with paste, then it is not air tight. stirrer or no stirrer.

btw, kalk reactors that use magnetic stirrer stirs constantly 24x7. using a power head as replacement stirrer, it will be impossible to time the ATO to not kick in before the mixture has settled. Hence I think those reactors with no stirrers (like the tunze) does make sense.

 

[ReefObsessor805]

Hey all,

I just tried to order 24" of Acrylic Tubing from US Plastics, and it was a no-go. It can only be ordered in 6' intervals! Anyone know where I can order one piece at 24" in length??

 

[coryjac0b]

aquaticeco.com has it by the foot, if your going to be using pvc fittings, get the 4.5" acrylic tubing it fits into 4" pvc fittings perfectly, and can be glued with regular PVC glue.

 

[ReefObsessor805]

Perfect, right on.

 

[ReefObsessor805]

Effluent questions...

Effluent questions...

What should I do for my effluent output and RO/DI input pieces? 1/4" OD tubing w/ what tapped into the reactor?

Effluent output @ top of reactor:

RO/DI in:

 

[ReefObsessor805]

For the drain & burp valve:

JG 1/4 inch x 1/4 inch Male Adapter Ball Valve

 

[Paul_PSU]

I used the the jg valves for all three. I just used the ones with no valves for the input and output. The airline tubing will fit into those.

 

[ReefObsessor805]

This one?

 

[whatcaneyedo]

Heres my recent DIY Kalk Reactor for some more ideas. Its basically a square knock off of a precision marine.

 

[ReefObsessor805]

That's sweet. Did you use Weld-on #4? I ordered two feet of 4 1/2" OD acrylic tubing from Aquatic Eco and I'm leaning towards finding some acrylic for my base and top... Just thinking of where to find some. I saw some sheets at Lowe's...

 

[fourzero]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14405334#post14405334 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by d0ughb0y
I don't think that is the same, unless your ATO container is air tight. The whole idea of a kalk reactor is air tightness (no CO2 to deteriorate the kalk mixture), and the undissolved kalk powder will slowly get used up as new water is pumped in to the reactor. kalk mixture exposed to air is only good for a week, maybe two.

That statement about kalk being good for a week or two tops is wrong. Do you have anything to back this statement up? I have had an unsealed kalk system running for over a year and I have not had any CaCO3 precipitation worth noting, except a crust on the walls of the bucket. I remove this when I fill/stir the mix by pouring the vinegar I add down the sides of the bucket.

IMHO, Nilsen reactors are nothing but a waste of time and money. I don't want to discourage people from trying to DIY a kalkreactor, just stating that's it's a complex solution to a simple (and IMHO nonexistent) issue.

Please read this thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1544907 , or at least read the RK article referenced in the replies: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-05/rhf/feature/index.php