my house reef (211 g.)

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I believe my system holds a total of 330g of water. When I dose Chemi-Clean (one container doses 300g), it doesn't quite kill all cyano in the system, but reduces it greatly. This leads me to believe the water volume is more. My sump holds a good 70 to 80 of water, and could hold 150g if necessary.

I do need to do a water change soon. Maybe I'll start up a barrel of RO/DI water today so I can get 55g changed before dosing anything. It's no problem moving the dates on the spreadsheet. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7024729#post7024729 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev

I do need to do a water change soon. Maybe I'll start up a barrel of RO/DI water today so I can get 55g changed before dosing anything. It's no problem moving the dates on the spreadsheet. :)
Click to expand...

W/C are fine - it was more a queiry about whether you intended to change salt brand - as this can impact on coloration /growth.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7017486#post7017486 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ps8411

TIA,

PS8411

PS, might as well get going with these products also...anybody know a good place online to buy...Zeo CV AAHC PIF, Start2


,
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Hi Scott - below is my email reply to you that you didnt get:(

Yes, the tank continues to go well - thanks:)

Is your tank is 200USG net ie after all the rock and sand has displaced water? If so - its 800 ltrs - nice.

A. Getting it cycled and preped if not cycled:
1) Biodigest - 1 amp per 60 ltrs = 13 amps as the initial innoculation.
2) Run Rowaphos for few weeks to take out any residual PO4 from the LR/ sand - take this out after a while and check if any PO4 is leaching back into the aquarium. If so - put it back on. If not Prodi and skimming will handle the PO4 from feeding IME.

B. Routine dosing while stocking and starting 2 weeks after the first dose above

1) Bio digest - 1amp every 2 weeks
2) Bio TPIM - 4 amps every 2 weeks
3) Reef booster - 2 amps every week (only dose this when you have some corals and just dose 1 pw until stocking builds up)

IMO Zeo Start2 is an option - I dont think its needed unless you are struggling to keep NO3 and PO4 levels down. Iwan no longer uses it - and I'v stopped.

C. Zeo coral food CV and AAHC -

dose as per bottles ie 8 props of each during lights out - starting after about 3 months. When your sps colonies begin to take off dosing can be incraeased up to 3 times this.

D PIF Iron PSG K ballance

IME these can wait until 6 months or so. I started earlier - but you dont need to.

What salt are you using? IF seachem - you dont need K ballance - if the salt is low on Potassium - K ballance can help and if you have an ovious potassium leak.

HTH

Please PM me on RC for the european vendor info - thats where I can cut and paste the details

Please do keep photos and share them:)

Cheers

SImon
 
Oh. Good point. Hmmm. Well, recently we've discovered that Kent Sea Salt, a salt I've used for years, has been lacking bicarbonate and thus the alkalinity out of the bucket is testing less than 1 dKH

I recently purchased three boxes (200g worth) of a new brand of salt, but I still have enough Kent to do this test without changing brands. I just buffer it up to make up for the lack of Alk/pH when aging the saltwater.
 
chi I know it wasn't directly from the booster at least I don't think it was. I am sure it was because I just got past the algea in my system. phosphates and nitrates are undetectable but that doesn't mean corals and the small amount of algea aren't using them up as soon as they are available. the algea is a short hair algea type that is growing mostly on the rock only in all parts of the aquarium. it is wierd because I usually have very clean rock and I have a minimal cleanup crew. I can't stand crabs ripping each others shells after I just paid $1 for the one losing. I can normally get away with very little as far as snails and hermit crabs and it seems to work. like I said the guy I got the system from neglected it and finally tried to clean it up when he was selling it. the ph has been low since adding these products and a carbon source. I have been trying to keep up with buffering checking and adjusting a couple times a week. only been back in the hobby for 6-7 months so test kits are pretty new and I go through the dates at the store to get the newest ones in stock.
it's not a big deal really I was just trying to let people know if there tanks aren't as clean as say yours or iwans then a full dose may be risky. I do see that I miss read the bioptim and under dosed this may be a problem I am going to go add another vial now.
 
does anyone know where the video of the tank is, which page? I couldn't view it with dial up, but i got a cable modem and really really would like to see it :D
 
Not sure if this has been asked/answered yet, but in some of the pics it looks as though his back glass has a mirror effect... Is that really the case, or am I seeing it wrong?
 
thanks, that video was awesome, but i'm not sure thats the exact one i was talking about. Wasn't there another that stayed in a full tank shot mosty frrom farther away. I might be wrong though :D
 
Ok I have question, When Euros are talking about a DSB is this with Plenum? ie Undergravel filter or is it a str8 DSB. I have seen both on tanks site over there and was just wondering is there a standard? Whats Iwan running .
 
Not to get off the post here.But was wondering what happened to the Zeovit forum.Tried to go there Saturday,and today.But it's down.Was wondering if it's my computer here?They also always had some good stuff,along with this thread.
Curt
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7043574#post7043574 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefflections
Not to get off the post here.But was wondering what happened to the Zeovit forum. ...
Curt
Click to expand...
No worries ... Scott's on it.
BTW ... great thread!

JMO
:D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7043660#post7043660 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mesocosm
No worries ... Scott's on it.
BTW ... great thread!

JMO
:D
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Hello Meso - nice to see you over here:) Thanks for the good info you posted over there:cool:

Simon
 
If no one minds ... I have a few questions.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6025286#post6025286 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by iwan
... with bacteria and bactofood in combination with the DSB, phosphate is not a problem. Sometimes I use rowaphos (If the phosphate is higher then 0.02mg/l)
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(This was in response to AcroSteve's question about phosphate control) In your folk's experience with the Iwan Method, are the bacteria and bactofood adequate for phosphate sequesteration/export in and of themselves, or is a DSB also recommended? Is the application of RowaPhos necessary ... either "in the beginning" or periodically throughout the use of the method? (I'm trying to get at how phosphorous is being "moved" through the water column and substrate ... in other words, do you folks have experiences suggesting that the inoculation of bacterial strains and their carbon source is a potential strategy for overcoming some of the "nutrient sink" issues often reported to be associated with DSBs).


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6531041#post6531041 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by iwan
It is a DSB.
I replace the topmost layer twice per year. ...
Click to expand...
Is this also a component of the method? I have no objection to this whatsoever ... in the final analysis this might be a more cost effective and time efficient way of exporting P than several other husbandry possibilities. I'm just trying to get a clearer conceptualization of how phosphorous is being "moved" through the water column and substrate.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6726467#post6726467 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TryTheChi
... Intuitively - a biological solution would seem to be a more natural way to achieve v low NO3 PO4 and therefore easier for corals to adapt to. They have evolved together. ...
SImon
Click to expand...
I couldn't agree more. For the record, oligotrophic water columns in natural ecosystems utilize bacterial guilds to "move" C, N, and P ... much more so than eutrophic water columns, which utilize phytoplankton-zooplankton guilds (counter-intuitive though this may seem). "Low Nutrients" is but one piece of the puzzle, and is not definitive of "oligotrophic" (... in and of itself. Oligotrophic water columns are characterized by the synergy between low nutrients, bacterial guild behavior with regards to both DON and POM, water "flow patterns", and light scattering phemomena ... at least in terms of the oceanographic research literature).


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6961076#post6961076 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by agarza
I think a new thread would be great so Iwan can have his thread back :rollface: ...
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Apologies for the intrusion ... feel free to ignore this. It's just that you folks are the only other people seriously experimenting with "bacterioplankton filtration" configurations, and I'm very interested it what you have to say about the biochemical mechanisms/pathways involved. Not the products ... whether French, German, Canadien, or whatever ... just the research-based mechanisms. After all ... there's nothing "magical" about what either Iwan or Alexander is doing.

I'll be quiet now, and go back to lurking ...


JMO ... TIA!
:D
 
he meso have you read the coral magazine issues 1 through 6 or 7 that deal with nutirents in the aquarium? I am through 5 of them and I need to go back and re read them a few times to really grasp everything but it is at least giving me a better understanding of what is going on and what in my own mind I think I should try to do.
iwan are you still seeing changes using the night sun products and are you still adding 10% of each? we can't get the stuff in the states that I can find yet but I am still looking if anyone knows where.
 
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