Chris27
New member
Hypo is really only good for Crypt....other parasites and ailments are unaffected by it. So at times, copper, formalin, or an antibiotic may be necessary.
My LFS says not to quarantine?
- Thread starter Reef Doctor
- Start date
Hypo is really only good for Crypt....other parasites and ailments are unaffected by it. So at times, copper, formalin, or an antibiotic may be necessary.
Chris27
New member
Did it get Crypt from the tank it was in, or the tank it went too? Not nitpicking, but it's variables like this situation that make QT'ing a tricky endeavor for both the store and the hobbyist.
Chris27
New member
It takes years to obtain a healthy display, countless hours of hard work, wet floors, loss of sleep, strained relationships, etc.. QT is easy, and it helps to lend a sense of both security and accomplishment to oneself. What gets me is that every day folks try to save a few hours of time, and a few bucks only to ruin all the hard work a few short days later.
The cost of an adequate QT setup can be less then 1 fish, and we're talking gobies and clownfish, not black tangs and pairs of crosshatch triggers.
It's just so easy, you can use tapwater, API kits, and rubbermaid containers, and when you're done, you can throw a new fish in the tank without loosing sleep.
The cost of an adequate QT setup can be less then 1 fish, and we're talking gobies and clownfish, not black tangs and pairs of crosshatch triggers.
It's just so easy, you can use tapwater, API kits, and rubbermaid containers, and when you're done, you can throw a new fish in the tank without loosing sleep.
MrTuskfish
Team RC
Lionfish can handle copper, IMO, but not at the full therapeutic dose recommended by mfgs. The lower doses of copper, used by almost every collector, shipper, wholesaler, online dealer, and many lfs are safe for most copper sensitive fish. This dosage will help with parasites, but won't eliminate them in the relatively short time they are exposed to the copper. When using copper to eliminate a sure case of ich or velvet; the copper level can be tailored to the sensitivity of the fish being treated. Hypo or tank transfer are other methods to use with copper sensitive fish, with confirmed parasites too.
Any decent LFS, wholesaler, whatever certainly knows that all fish should go into QT; but they still want to cut their losses. If copper can eliminate "visable " parasites; the fish are salable....its up to us to catch and cure parasite infestations in in a QT. This isn't a knock on good suppliers, they do what they can. But, guaranteeing parasite-free fish would make them skyrocket in price and (IMO) is just plain impossible.
I agree. If you want totally quarantined fish from any supplier, multiply the price by a factor of two.
jcw
Active member
More than a few of my fish never survived these makeshift qt setups. It has taken me longer to develop a qt method than setting up a mixed reef tank. Sps have been easy compared to qt-ing fish for me.
I'm not saying people can't do it easily(you've obviously done it), i'm just saying i haven't and i'm sure i'm not the only one.
You should see my latest attempt at a qt setup for my incoming wrasse. :hmm3:
Chris27
New member
It's all about diligence, testing the water frequently, performing water changes, feeding properly, knowing what to do when something goes wrong, etc. It's definitely not a set and forget kind of thing, it requires much the same attention to detail that one would typically give their display, just in a different direction.
Tin_Whistler
Mayor of Podunk
I have no clue why a lfs would recommend against QT'ing in the first place. They make more money off selling an extra tank, and supplies for that tank, plus they'd give solid advice to a consumer that will hopefully come back with return business on other purchases.
As said by many others though there's tons of reasons to QT your fish based off what the store told you.
Making sure they eat, and are healthy enough to get food vs the other dominant fish in your tank.
Copper doesn't treat everything.
Some fish can't be treated with copper.
Copper treatment takes 4 weeks to be sure, I doubt that store is holding onto those fish that long.
And to be honest, that lfs could be flat out lying and not using copper at all, or using a dose so small they can say "œwe add copper" while it'll do nothing for the fish at all.
I really think we need a sticky "how to" setup a QT. I know it seems simple, but I keep seeing the question asked over and over again on here. I would be willing to write it all up if someone would post pics of their QT setup to include in the sticky. It seems the most widely accepted QT option is the bare bottom method, and I'm cool with that, but my QT setup is u/g filter so taking pics of mine wouldn't help.
Kieth71
New member
One thing i would say about being new and starting a qt is dont get frustrated and go to the dark side.I refer to the dark side as those who have trouble qting fish..they end up killing fish mostly because of ammonia and then qt is thrown out the window as a tool.Make sure you have a seeded filter and water made to do water changes ready if needed.Monitor your copper levels with a correct test kit and keep an ammonia badge on your qt.These few steps will help alot in the pitfalls alot of people fall into when qting fish-Kieth
Good advice and good practice.
OK Kieth, may I use your pic for my sticky? I'll write it up as you have your QT setup. Are the mods cool with this or am I overstepping my boundaries? Who do I submit my sticky to for approval?
-KiethSimilar threads
