my new 175 oceanic BOWFRONT!

S

shaneh

New member
As the subject says after a long search and love for bowfronts. I wanted the biggest bowfront I could find/ afford. I had to settle for a “Stock” tank the 175 oceanic bowfront that measures L 72.5 x W 29.5 x H 24. It is still a very nice tank and for the price I got for brand new from exotic aquarium in Pittsburg, CA it was the same as used (almost). They have having a big sale right now and was over $1300 less than other places I called for the exact same tank and stand.

So anyways I can’t just leave it stock I have to have my small dream tank. As I would have loved to have a 225gal or bigger but a custom tank is just way to much $ for me right now. So I’ll have to customize it myself. I originally wanted an external overflow box and contacted oceanic to see if they would do any changes to stock tanks if I paid and they said “No”. but were helpful to give me some tips.

The tank has 2 overflows each with one 1” bulkhead for return and 11/4 to sump. So my idea is this:
To increase the amount of turnover in the tank and limit the amount of pumps in the tank (AKA wasted watts) I want to drill the tank to fit (4) 1” bulkheads in the back of the tank. One on each end and the other two between the overflows about 8 to 10 inches down from the top of the tank. These will be my return to tank that is controlled by a OM 4 way and powered by a sequence pump TBD on GPH.

Then use both the 1” and 1 and ¼” bulkheds in the overflow for flow to the sump. In order to do this I need to drill the overflow box or the tank in the back again to allow more linear overflow because the overflow box may not be able to accommodate that much water.

I contacted a few glass places in Sonoma county and found that Emps Graphic Eye will do it for $50 a hole on the ½ tick glass. But they will not insure me that it will not break. So to say the least I am a bit worried about doing the drilling. Have any of you drilled glass before? I have seen the glass drilling bits on BRS and others but very scared to try it myself on a $2K tank.

PS I contacted oceanic to ensure the back is not tempered glass, but the bottom is tempered glass.

PSS: Exotic Aquairum should give me a call this week when the tank comes in, if anyone would like a ride down to the store just to check it out and maybe help me load it let me know. I plan to leave on Sat morning 10 ish but I can change it if someone wants to check out the store as I have never been there myself.
 
Just to clarify the holes will be on the back glass, two in the middle between the two overflows and two on the other ends of the overflows. The only pump I plan to have in the tank is my wave box.

Another item I need to tackle is the lighting for the tank. I believe there are two braces that I have to work around. But the first step will be to build the canopy. The one that oceanic make looks like cheap plastic.

For lighting I am overwhelmed with reading and want to get this right the first time. I would like to go with (2) 400 watt MH and (2) 250 watt MH with three 60" VHO Actintic, and two 60" T-5 ATI Blue Plus on Icecap 660. I love the picture of the September 2008 TOTM. But think that high watt MH would be nice. So I need some help with what brand of ballast and where is the best place to buy my lighting stuff. I plan to do this slowly to make the right decisions the first time. So let the fun begin!!!
 
Wow, that's quite a tank, congrats!

IMO, you'll have plenty of sump turnover with your two 1 1/4" drains as they exist. Personally, I wouldn't try to crank up flow through the sump to sps flow levels as a way to avoid pumps in the tank. VorTechs move huge quantities (up to 3000g/h) of water for like 40 watts of power with a nominal in tank presence. I think you'd be hard pressed to find that flow rate at that elecrical consumption in a return pump. Plus then you wouldn't have to have the tank drilled.

That's certainly an ample amount of lighting you have planned! I would venture a guess that many people would say to use 3 250w MHs over the 72"L tank with the VHO and T5 supplements. I think three fixtures are necessary for good coverage. I'd probably go with 3 400w (still 100w less juice required than the 2 400w + 2 250w you have planned), or at least the center one 400w, but that's just me. You'll certainly be able to grow coral with 250s but I'd expect better color with 400s.
 
Ken I think I'm going to go with your recommendation, I saw your lighting and it looks really good and so do your corals. But I think yesterday I was talking like I was made of money. I think it may be better on my PG and E bill if I went with (1) 400 watt in the middle and (2) 250 Watt, one on each side. What do you think of my down to earth approach on lighting? I think I will be able to afford my tank longer. What ballasts do you use? And where did you get your lighting stuff? So many brands, so hard to choose. I've been reading a lot of reviews but can't make up my mind so I'd like everyone’s input on ballast experience.

I actually had a dream last night of going to the glass shop to pick up the tank and the tank was broken and all they said was "well we tried, you owe us $200." So as much as I would like to drill the tank and have a OM-4 way I may not work out on this tank. =( I'll have to save it for my next dream tank.


Oh also Ken, where did you get your vortex?
 
Funny dream! Probably not so much for you though.

I think swapping a 400w MH for the center 250w would add some color. The bomb tanks in our club tend to be lit with 250w MHs and VHOs. Mine is lit with 400w MHs and T5s. A combo of VHO and T5 supplements could be interesting, though I think supporters of each the VHO and T5 camps would say what bother with the other.

My MH ballast is a Sunlight Supply Blue Wave II dual magnetic ballast, so I'm running both lights off a single ballast (which is designed for two lights). My ballast supports "regular" M59 MH bulbs, not pulse start / hqi type. My T5s have their own electronic ballast that came with the retro kit.

I picked up my VorTech at Marine Depot.
 
First time to post although I do find these funny to read...
Shane, I would not under any circumstance drill a retail tank of that size/cost. The risks are too great and the glass guys don't care, well, not as much as you anyway! Who is the last professional you have dealt with. Pretty hard to find. There is plenty of turnover available with the existing holes. I would even suggest that you use two pumps rather than one big one. The reason is reliability and $$. I avoid all things chinese whenever possible but love the genx pump that I have had running for over 7 years straight. It draws 70 watts at 1190 gph! If you had two sucking from the same sump and if one fails, you can fix it ASAP and not immediately! My pump only has given me problems whenever the power went out and it wouldn't restart due to the calcification of the impeller and volute. This happens if your cacl reactor is kicking butt. I just easily disassembled (due to the unions and ball valve installed by me) and scraped clean. Reassembled and fired it back up. Why two? This only seems to happen at 2-3am and I wake up in horror that there is no flow in my tank. If one was still working, it would wait until morning...no emergency!
Lighting: 400 watt MH are great but you will DEFINITELY need a chiller if those are running over only 172 gallons (with canopy! Ouch!) Expect massive evap. That tank is not very deep if I remember correctly so only shallow corals would thrive, right? I am far from an SPS expert so take this as means to contemplate. I think that 3-250 MH would suffice with supplemental VHO or PCs.
What I would most like to point out is that you plan and execute all hardware such as plumbing, reactor flow, skimmer placement, etc. correct and once because it is a pain to retrofit and ends up looking like a retrofit. Lighting and powerheads are as easy to change as fish and rocks.
The thing about this hobby is that there are many opinions and "facts". I can remember when wet/drys first appeared in fish stores. They were the "secret" to reefkeeping. Find someone using one on a reef now. How about fluidized beds, plenum systems and undergravel "filters". You are doing the right thing by soliciting opinions. Just take 'em all with a KILO of salt.
I have seen magnificent macaws in Mexico fed only sunflower seeds. Does that make it right? Not for my critters!
You are always welcome to come up and see my rig.
Good Luck! Exciting times!
Rob and his usual 2 million cents worth
 
Forgot to mention, I have a used Sequence pump (Cimmarron?) that is 3400 GPH at 0 head. 2" suction- 1.5" discharge. You can have it for $150 if you like. It needs cleaning as it was on my pond until last year.
Craig has my contact info or I think I posted it on the tread titled "soft coral"
Rob
p.s. I also have some undergravel filters and a fluidized bed filter if you want 'em. jajajajaja (that's hahahahah in espanol)
 
Congrats on the tank Shane.

As for drilling the tank, a few things to keep in mind(as I have had a few holes in my tanks:D)
1. Drilling the holes isn't too much of a concern. It's been done by thousands of people without incident, as long as the glass isn't tempered, which you've already verified. Good job.
2. Plumbing is expensive, if you do it right. And doing it the right way is paramount. Use quality bulkheads, like Haywards. If you get a leak, draining the tank to fix it is not a pleasant experience. Also, I highly recommend using true union ball valves every place you have a hole in the tank, except for the drains in the overflow. Do it right once and save yourself many headaches down the road. So, the more holes in the tank, the more expensive the setup will be. And, plumbing is a PITA. Luckily, if you've done it right the first time, you won't have to go back and re do it.
3. for the wattage of a single Reeflo pump, say the Dart, you can run a bunch of powerheads. Using Tunzes or Vortecs will give you alot more flow for the same energy used. So, don't go that direction if energy efficiency is the primary goal. If the goal is to hide the pumps, then OK. Just think it through.

As for lighting, I really see no need for 400w bulbs, even if the tank were 30" deep, provided you use the best reflectors. I had a 30" deep tank with 250w bulbs in LumenMax Elite reflectors, and was bleaching many of my corals, even on the sand bed. Use 3 250w MH in either the LM Elite or LumenBright reflectors and forget about 400 watters. Personally, I like Sunlight Supply ballasts. You can't go wrong with any of them, and their customer support is great. I like the Galaxy ballasts, but the Lumatek is also nice. The Blue Waves are very solid, well built and perform great as well, but use a little more energy, and the biggest problem I have with them is that they are HUGE and HEAVY ballasts. A small, sleek electronic ballast is sooooo much easier to place.

As for the supplemental lighting. T5's in individual reflectors will give you better PAR, but I much prefer the look of VHO actinics, and any tank I set up will have the VHO's. I've tried both, and there really is no comparison. Also, using 6' bulbs, assuming VHO, is easier to setup, but very few LFS stock the 6'ers, and shipping can be pricier, unless you order at least 6 at a time. I'd go with 2 3'ers rather than 1 6'er, in front and behind the MH reflectors.

And to finish my novel:D Good luck and have fun.
 
thank you for all the input, i had my 250 watt ballast go out on my 55 bow front last week and my coral have started to loose color since i put a 175 on them. I just ordered a lumateck ballast to go on the 250. I plan to use this light as a frag tank in the long future. I picked lumtech because it has a feature that adjust the output as the bulb loose life. very cool. Blue wave were cheaper but as you can see they look like 4 bricks and a carry handle. But i may use the blue wave on my new tank since i will have more room in the cabinet or i could run the cords/ballast to another area.

I would like some help with the plumbing, maybe I could bring the sump, skimmer and chiller to the next meeting and a few of the more experienced ppl can help me make a list of what i need to do the plumbing right the first time. I plan to use ball valves, unions from BRS on both side of any pump to make it easy to change out if a pump goes out. I do like the idea of two pumps rather than one for the exact reason listed above. Oh and of course i will use the Hayward bulkheads not the low pressure ABS.

For the big question......I'm very back and forth on getting the tank drilled...gosh i would love to have it drilled and with the OM. But i am scared about the leaking and breaking potential. For the ppl who have drilled their tank where did you get it done or how did you do it yourself. I've seen the youtube videos make it look so easy and glass holes.com but if the tank broke that is a lot of money down the drain. If i drill or not will change the GPH pump i select...so i have to decide that first

As for flow my perfect situation would be drill the back in 4 spots and have a wave box on one side and a vortex on the other side. I just want to have the least amount of pumps int he tank as possible. I even wish it was an external overflow box but that will be my next dream tank. =) I just think to many pumps and hoses in the main tank makes it look more like a science experiment not a living work of art.

So now for lighting-....the tank is L 72.5 x W 29.5 x H 24. It is not very deep but it is wide at the bow. I would like to be able to keep all corals as i have my favorites in each department. That is why i was thinking the 400 in the middle for the high light SPS and the 250 for softies and LPS and "lower light/ deeper" corals.

My goal with the lighting is to keep all types of coral, with the best looking and best growth and of course with PG and E in the back of my mind. I am an atinic fan! But i do think the 3 foot bulbs would be a smarter decision than a 6ft bulb. Expensive to ship, costly break and easier to install. But i think for now i should worry about building the canopy. But i did see that http://customaquatic.com/estore/control/main has a free ice cap fan with the purchase of the ballast. the sale ends today...

Here is equipment i have pick up so far...

175 RR oceanic bowfront and stand with overflow parts

XL-2 Precision Marin Skimmer rated for 750 gallons, powered by a gen-x 40 pump. This is a 3 foot + tall skimmer!!!

1/2 HP flow through chiller from aqua logic, 10 foot of 1 inch flex PVC hose for chiller.

BRS- GFO reactor

ATO from autotopoff.com with 2 float switches.

20 gallon tall AGA for holding water to top off.

Tunze wave box (the big one)

RK2 with temp and PH, have web cam to link to myreef program.

12 outlet extension cord..the long type.

1 inch flex hose for chiller.

Still need to pick up...

two pumps...will depend on if i drill tank or not.

make a canopy

MH, Reflectors, bulbs, ballast, VHO's, end caps.

Thinking of switching to cal reactor instead of 2 part.

would like to do automatic water changes of 5-10 gallons a day.

make a skimmer collection bucket for the cup to a 5 gallon bucket.

order 200 lbs of white white white sand or i may go black sand...thinking....

ozontech o-zone 200

the rest of the bulkheads, unions, ball valves, check valves and plumbing to sum the list up.

it looks like I have a while before this thing will be ready to go but good things take time.
 
As for the MH, I kept high light loving acros at sandbed level with the 250's, in a 30" tank. No need for 400's. But, I've already covered that. That's a good looking list of equipment. But, do you have someplace to fit it all? The skimmer is the obvious problem, with it's height, but the chiller? Alongside the tank? Just curious how you plan to arrange things.

As far as help planning things out, that's easy enough, and you shouldn't need to lug anything around. Try laying the components out, like you'd want them to be put together once in place, and snap a picture. I'm sure quite a few of us can point you in the right direction.

Also, you can use programs like Google Sketchup to help organize your thoughts and see exactly how things will fit in the available space. It's a free program. It may take a little effort to figure it out, but it's fairly simple.

As for drilling the tank, it's not a complete loss if the panel breaks. Any competant glass shop can cut out the panel and replace it. It'll cost a few hundred dollars, but you won't lose the whole tank.
 
Oh I also have a 25 gallon DIY fuge that i would like to switch to a acrylic tank not a storage container that I used but I will wait to get the measurements on the stand exact to buy the biggest that will fit. I'm thinking this will be last after I get all the pumps and stuff under the canopy.

And for the ppl wondering I will put the skimmer on the side of the tank because it will not fit under the stand. I will be like a display a 3 foot skimmer full of foam makes me smile…..I have a sea clone on my tank right now. So that will be a big change.
 
yeah the chiller will go on the side of the tank too. I was thinking of building a stand for the skimmer on top of the chiller or even make a cabniet with the back part off of the cabniet to vent the chiller. I'll start snapping some pictures of the tank and stuff this weekend.
 
Hey Shane

Not too much to add except I am jealous :eek:
and if you need any help you know where to find us.( i.e carrying or moving anything).

Congrats on the new beast....Craig.
 
The skimmer sounds like overkill to me. Any of the Euroreef skimmers in are great! I have met someone who doesn't like theirs. (I am sure someone will chime in now) Calc reactor for sure! 2 part with all the great gear you are talking about? Like putting a briggs and stratton into a corvette. I had a UPS hooked to my main return pump and loved the security. We hardly lose power in Cotati but did every other month in Vallejo. They are cheap at Costco($100). Why the huge water changes? Got to get out of that freshwater mindset. You are creating an ecosystem not a display, right? I am curious where you have been getting the ideas for the spec'ing out of equip? Sounds like a bit of an over spend on some stuff. You can save money without cutting corners. Most all of us have had DIY to semi scary rigs in the past. Some of us just get tired of all that mish mash of gear. You are on the right track by wanting good equip. I would just keep on asking around and don't rush. It is hard though, isn't it?
Rob
 
I got all the equipment used but new,...the 1/2 HP chiller from a store down south http://www.globeaqua.com/ the owner is Todd a really good guy to work with. He even paid the shipping and I got it for almost 1/2 price. The skimmer I watched RC for a long time and when a good deal came on I jumped on it....this was a long story....the skimmer cup was broken by Fed-Ex but Precision Marine fixed everything what a good company. You can look at my thread a few posts down. So I do have a few parts that are over kill but that just gives me the option to go bigger!!!

As for where I get the spec...think of it this way I'm the student and you guys are the teacher. I'm more doing the general idea and you guys provide the specs and feed back. I read a lot on RC but I have learned that there is some hogwash on here. But for the most part the info is correct.

I think of the skimmer more of a novelty item....I just like the look of a big skimmer full of foam and it will be a good conversation piece! haha All my non-reef friends look at it and guess what it is...can't wait to see it up and running! Thanks again for all the input...pics soon.

Oh and Craig I'll PM you...I may need some help getting it out of the truck and up 8 steps of stairs. better than 8 flights right! I know a few ppl who can help but I may need your number if it is to heavy.

Also I am about to finish building a water holding table. It consists of 4 45 gallon trash cans….1 the RO/DI goes in that has a float valve to shut it off, 2 for the waste water that I use for laundry and 1 for mixing. I just take a picture this weekend it will be much easier to explain but I thought of the idea myself. My girlfriend is much happier to see half the stuff out of the bedroom. But I still have a decent amount of stuff that I need to sell. I will post some stuff for sale this weekend. The list will include…

- Odysea brand 175 watt MH with (2) 65 watt actinic and (4) moon lights. With an almost new ice cap ballast (3) months of use or less and an actinic ballast.- All the wiring is done all you have to do is plug it in and I’ll thrown in the legs and hanging bracket so you can pick what way you want to go. I have an extra set of actinic bulbs and I think I may have an extra MH bulb too…I’ll need to check. $200

-1 sea clone skimmer. I’ll give it a vinegar bath. $20

-40 lbs estimated of live sand. About ¾ full 5 gallon bucket…this has some rock rubble and arrogate mixed in with rock rubble. $30
 
Shane, When we met I was impressed with your interest to do things right but not afraid to take a chance. You also don't have the "know it all" attitude that prevalent throughout this hobby. This is why I replied to your post. I am willing to help you and will layout and plumb all of your stuff, time willing, if you ask. By the way I AM a know it all, just ask me. ...but that is another thread...
Rob
 
Hey Rob and everyone else reading,

Glad I have a know it all on my side!=) haha well I am picking the tank up tomorrow and had a bit of a scare when I got the call that the tank was in the store. I asked the person at the store to make sure of the measurements to make sure it was the correct tank before I make the drive. She told me the measurements 72.5L by 24.5 wide at first I was freaked out cause that is the measurements of the 155 not 175. I asked her to measure the height and it was 29.5 inches. This is not the same measurements as Oceanic advertises they put on the web site 72.5L by 29.5 w and 24.5 H.

After talking to oceanic the website is wrong!!! The correct measurements are 72.5L by 24.5 W by 29.5 high. I thought I was getting a tank with a bigger bow but it is a smaller bow by 5 inches and 5 inches taller. So with that said I was a bit mad but it is nice to have a deeper tank....plus I did pre-pay.

So I will take pictures and have them up this weekend. If any of you are in the area and feel the need to lift a 300+ lb tank let me know! haha. I have a few non reef friends that said they will help but they think I am crazy for putting that much water in a house. It is in a crate so I will make it easier but not that easy.

Warning- I have 8 steps to the front door! It will not be easy to say the least.

Next step…..maybe drilling, I’ve been talking to Jason and he has been getting my confidence up about us the club drilling the tank. It is ½ inch glass and BRS sells the bits for $25….just thinking. I’ll wait and look at the tank and see if it is still what I want to do. If I drill it I will spend about $200 more on plumbing. At $15 a 1inch Hayward bulkhead and $25 a ball/union, it will add up fast.
 
2 months ago I put in a 175 Bow Front and it took 2 guys to pick it up and put it in place. It wasn't that heavy or to hard to put into place, just make sure you have plenty of working room. Good luck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
OVERFLOW BOX HOLE?
Replies
9
Views
458
allenford6
A
J
Plumbing 300 gallon acrylic aquarium
Replies
4
Views
3K
corvinridge
C
A
DRILL aquarium only 1 DownPipe?
Replies
1
Views
225
Timfish
Timfish
A
DRILL aquarium only 1 DownPipe?
Replies
0
Views
190
Andrés Garza
A
E
92 gallon corner aquarium
Replies
3
Views
1K
griss
griss
Back
Top