My Nitrate reduction Experiment with Siporax / Matrix Bio media:

bigzman

New member
I will try to keep this brief as there is a ton to cover as this is my personal experience and in no way scientific. I hope this is helpful and that others share their experience (Calling out Robthron for getting me to try this on my reef).

Here is my build thread:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24904546#post24904546

And here is where my challenges started.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24897273&postcount=162

To sum up the issues, my build has been delayed with many problems (Leaks, O2, Ich) last but not least Nitrate. For the last 6 months I have struggled to keeping nitrates below (sub 60 ppm). I had cycled 200+ pounds of dry rock for over 4 months prior to filling up new tank and waited 2 months before adding fish. I knew I might not have enough rock for a high bio load but was not too concerned at the time about that as I wanted to complete the fish transfer.

Fast forward a few months ( issues) and I am still battling nitrates. So I started the carbon usage after a few weeks it started to drop sub 5ppm, but was amazed on how much vodka I was using as compared to my 210. I was hoping to find a solution were I wouldn’t have to keep a regiment like vodka (Which worked for me for almost 8 years). So after cleaning my canister filter for my discus (Loaded with Seachem Matrix) and a long chat with Robthorn I decided to explore siporax for my reef. I have read up on matrix in reefs but was curious in finding more info about siporax. After a quick search I found this TOTM that had used siporax as a heavy bio media.

http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/current-issue/article/126-tank-of-the-month

After missing an opportunity to buy in a group buy I picked up some of the regular size siporax from amazon and tested 2 liters granted I kept up with vodka 12 ml but never really hit the ULNS side. Wanted to see what and if any help would come from the bio media. Fast forward a month I decided to add 2 liters of matrix as well as I was able to hit UNLS and feed like crazy and even reduce Carbon. So not being sure what was the magic to the reduction. I started researching more and found the below thread

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24904546#post24904546

To my surprise after some research I found manufacture claims:
270 m² per liter Siporax vs 700 m2/L for Seachem.


So after 6 years of using regular matrix in discus tank. I now wanted to try pond matrix on my soon to be reef system. Started with 4 liters of pond matrix on top of existing 2 liters of Siporax and 2 liters of regular matrix. After another 2 months it made a big difference. I have cut back carbon dosing and love the fact that's it's an easy and natural way of addressing nitrate.

What's the difference you might ask from Matrix to Pond Matrix? SIZE
20161222_222353_zps4rsgq57u.jpg

So my new goal is to try to stay as close as possible to UNLS and without a carbon source.

***I must address the film build up that others face when using this media. If you noticed on the above pictures I am trying 2 methods with one goal in mind, maintenance ease. So after years of using matrix in a canister with great success on my discus tank. I have noticed that yes a film builds up on any media and can be easily dislodged and removed (I must admit I am not entirely sure the film is causing any degradation in effectiveness of the media) but also noticed on the TOTM that siporax chambers could be shaken to dislodge film or detritus build up. I later started to run 2 canisters and clean out one unit one month and the other a month later. I do this to address redundancy and reduce the probability of a mini cycle as I like to rinse media with discard water by giving it a good shake to dislodge film and possible detritus***.

Back to my reef and what is working. I have decided to try high and low flow areas while also creating removable compartments so one can perform maintenance and not impact all the media.

20161222_215745_zps1qtchxbc.jpg


20161222_220342_zpsu2klde4g.jpg


Doing this allows me to grab one of the 1 liter media bag and shake and rinse it in discard tank water at any given schedule.
20170109_220412_zpsxv1cc2o8.jpg


20170109_214843_zpsivmpbbmp.jpg


I also left pond matrix lose in bottom of my filter sock chamber (please note if using pond matrix for the first time please let it soak in water and sink, as they can float due to micro bubbles being trapped in very porous media).

20161222_215745_zps1qtchxbc.jpg


As of Tuesday: I have had a week without Vodka and solely on Matrix. I have removed the regular siporax and super low Nitrate. I now have 8 Liters of Pond Matrix and 6 liters of regular matrix. I have 4 more liters of pond matrix on the way which will go in fuge overflow.

Again many variables could exist as to why this is working for me.

I hope this helps others so please do share your experiences with bio medias. More so those that can afford more expensive pond version of siporax.
 
Last edited:
Funny you posted this....I have been having Nitrates problems so I started a Matix reactor...I just ordered 1 gallon of Matrix pond and should be here tomorrow....So far I like it....
 

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Please excuse me if this was covered, but any particular reason you didn't try biopellets? A few years back I had a mixed tank with softies and heavy fish. My nitrates went over a testable level (200ppm) for a period. I went with biopellets, they showed no gain for roughly a month and then it took off. I had to replentish the pellets on a regular basis and my nitrates went to less than 5 within a few weeks. If you're a fish guy, which I think you are, I'd highly suggest them.
 
Reactor

Reactor

Funny you posted this....I have been having Nitrates problems so I started a Matix reactor...I just ordered 1 gallon of Matrix pond and should be here tomorrow....So far I like it....

Matt I have covered that with Robthron to the point i am going to buy his reactor :). But I have to say I will mostly likely use it on my new discus build. Please read TOTM link. I am running a large amount as I want to remove any dependencies to cabon.
 
Pellets

Pellets

I have tried pellets several times in smaller tanks and not sure I like it. They work for sure but needing a reactor and replacement was not very thrilling. Also I got away with far longer stretch with a 1 of skaol vodka for 8 dollars. That's why I ran 8 years on vodka and to A degree vinager for 6 months.

The objective for me is to remove the need of pump/reactor/food source(vodka,pellets, vinager) , and most of all maintenance. I am also hoping for To increase my bioload capacity since I plan to run a minimalist aquascaping in DT. I will admit there is one down side to this and that is the niether matrix or siporax add buffering.

Please excuse me if this was covered, but any particular reason you didn't try biopellets? A few years back I had a mixed tank with softies and heavy fish. My nitrates went over a testable level (200ppm) for a period. I went with biopellets, they showed no gain for roughly a month and then it took off. I had to replentish the pellets on a regular basis and my nitrates went to less than 5 within a few weeks. If you're a fish guy, which I think you are, I'd highly suggest them.
 
It sounds like you are getting solid results with the matrix and that's great news.

What did you mean by this?
To my surprise after some research I found manufacture claims:
270 m² per liter Siporax vs 700 m2/L for Seachem.
 
Data

Data

It sounds like you are getting solid results with the matrix and that's great news.

What did you mean by this?
To my surprise after some research I found manufacture claims:
270 m² per liter Siporax vs 700 m2/L for Seachem.

Reefkeeper64 it does look like that, I just wish I had something more scientific or other data to provide.

In this hobby I often find products with little mention of specifications or none are provided. In some cases I find specs in different languages or different units of measurements. I was also very surprised that the claims was the opposite of what I read. In the links provided above it is suggested that siporax has the highest surface area than any other media.
 
Oh man so much to say. I need to write a book here. It will have to be later though since I am stuck working today.
 
Ok I don't mean to knock anyone or anyone's way of doing things because there are so many ways that work. I will only explain what I have learned and why I do or do not do things.
First off we all need a carbon source of some kind from somewhere. I choose RedSea No3 po4 x. I have tried vinegar and vodka and zeo and a mess of others. Some cause cyano but for me zeo and Red Sea does not. Red Sea is cheaper by far and seems to work very well. Carbon source could also come from naturally occuring sources in most aquariums. They are all different.
If we run a mess of bio media and don't have enough carbon in the water the bacteria will just die out or not populate the media as intended. To me it just defeats the purpose of having the media and from the bio ball days could possibly become a nutrient trap making us do other things in addition to combat more problem than what we had in the first place
As for dosing carbon like no3 po4x. In my eyes the manufacturers are crazy on what they want people to dose and makes the product a failure for many. I would recommend starting with 1/2 to 1 ml a day depending on the size of tank. I have a 250 gallon and started at 1 ml. If you test after a couple weeks and your no3 or po4 is not dropping at all then bump it up a little at a time. If it is dropping at all then you do not adjust it up. Let things come down gradually. It will take a very long time for your tank to mature and corals to reach their full potential anyway so why take the risk of going to fast and killing something?
I currently have what I consider low nutrients. Not sure where the ULN threshold is but I really don't care. My tank to me is very good and something I am starting to feel a little proud about so I like where I am. Undetectable no3 and .015 to .03 po4. I dose between 1/2 and 1 ml of no3 po4 x per day. When I test po4 and it is .03 I go to 1 ml and when I test .015 I bump down to 1/2 a ml.
I always have my carbon source on a doser. In order to be in more fine control I dilute 1 liter of no3 po4x with 1 liter of ro/di. I stir it whenever I top off my alk doser. I can't see any settling.

I will never really understand how people get nitrates over 5 ppm in the first place but I see so many people that do.

Break is over so back to work. More later.
 
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