My Project ★ GENESIS ★ 110G (Miracle) SPS Dream Tank - (I) Pre-Build Thread

[Wally.B]

I dare you to ask Big E this question..
I’d have 2 coral plus for sure.

I took on your dare.

Ed replied.
Suggests I use 50/50 C+ B+. (Which what he has been running last 7 years and is happy).
So I ordered 4B+ and 2C+ for now. Also ordered the Reflectors and End caps for 6 Bulbs.
But I can quickly get 1 C+ at LFS to go 50/50.

Since I am ordering the HEP Ballasts directly from Manufacturer and shipping is a good portion of the cost (Ballasts are cheap).
I will be ordering 3x (2x54W non-dimmable ballasts SI254-58 UNI $18 ) and 1 EXTRA ballast (54W x2 Bulb Dimmable SD254-58 UNI $40).

This will give me a spare and some flexibility.

I played with all the ATI bulbs in my Kitchen Tank (B+, C+, ABS+, P+, and Actinic).

I started off with this this setup on 4ft Kitchen Tank (all 3ft 24W bulbs, but I staggered them over rocks cape target areas).

Right now I am running B+,B+ (non-dimmable), and C+,P+ (dimmable) with the Kessil.

The variety is impressive, and the reason for the dimmable P+ is it adds great coloration for the Fish and Corals (but I don't like to crank it up to 100% since I've noticed too much red increases my Nuisance Algae beyond what the Algae Blenny can Eat)

With my current NEW TANK lighting purchase....I will have options to tune the NEW Tank lighting over time (to suit my tastes) after seeing tank light up.

 

[Rakie]

I would have said the same Matt, until a local right in my area with a 120g told me he did a 5g change every 2 weeks. He's got an SPS dominant tank that's just phenomenal, and was a featured tank at Marine Depot.

That, coupled with me running a no water change program really opened my eyes on how we may not need to change so much. At best, were replacing trace. Run a little carbon once every 3-4 weeks for like 4-5 days and really the water is pretty close to pristine.

And Wally, great bulb choices. You won't regret the C+ bulbs, they're great.

 

[Wally.B]

I have mixed feelings/experience about water changes.

In my LPS/Mix Kitchen tank, I am really bad with Water changes, but it continues to thrive.

I do a water change like every 6-8 weeks (when I remember, or when I see a little bit of receding on coral). Then I do either a 10% or 15% water change on that 90 Gallon tank.

It could be the fact that I don't have a large fish load. But my Coral load is quite large. Possibly most are filter feeders so self cleaning tank.

However I think not doing enough water changes is a ticking time bomb. Similar to an unmaintained sand bed.

Now for my SPS tank (past and future), I don't think I can get away with that kind of neglect.

I have a 5 Gallon Auto Water changer so plan to water changes based on that limit (To keep thing automated. PUSH BUTTON).

I find this EFFECTIVTE Water Change CACLUATOR handy.
https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/EffectiveWaterChange.php

I the calculator to do that RESET on the OLD TANK.

I'll probably be doing 5 Gallon water changes (at minimum once a week) on the new 110 Gallon Tank. We'll see. I plan to be on the side of over-caution.

Since I'm talking about Handy Calculators, this SALINITY TOP UP CALCULATOR is my next Favorite.
https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/SaltwaterTopOff.php

Many ways to use the calculator, but it has proven to me as very accurate to reset Salinity slowly (by swapping out my RO Water Top up, with a bucket of pre-mixed Salt Water at the right spec).

 

[Wally.B]

I'm BORED (Can't do much in Sump Room Till TANK ARRIVES) Starting DRI-CORE Floor

I have lots of ideas for Sump Room (but best to wait).

Getting head start on the SUB-Floor. Will cover with plastic since this layer can't handle any water.
Will be safe when WaterProof Panels go over.

Also finally Ordered the WPC Panel Flooring after Deciding on Color. Tough decision but going to showrooms finally got me convince on best color.
(That will also arrive next week).

 

[Wally.B]

DRI-CORE (Sub-Floor) Completed

I know this is boring (no-Fish-Tank Stuff) Update.

But I got the Sub-Floor done. Perfectly Level (using the Dri-Cor Shimy's)

Some waste at each end of Row, but the OLD Office Dri-Core and New Dri-Core Lined up nicely (No cuts-No Waste).

Now that both Office and Rec Room are same level, I will be able to Slide out my Office desk (easier).

 

[Wally.B]

Making Progress (Flood Start Point Fixed) Getting things done before Tank Arrives

Not the Tank yet....Hoping Later this week.

Yesterday I did the whole RECTANGUALR Rec-Room DriCore in a day.

This little Hallway area took a whole day, since the odd shape was like a puzzle to cut.

I restored some the Flood Damage Drywall areas, but just before I did, I added a Electrical Outlet since this area needed on.

This is where the whole flood started.

 

[reefmutt]

Looking good!

 

[Wally.B]

Looking good!

Thanks for the kinds word of Support, I need it.

Wish I could say the same about my "knees" "back" "legs" "arms" and blistered "Hands"

But I am down to the Last Area of Flood Damaged Drywall.

Once this is done, it will be just plaster and paint and the final WPC panel Flooring which will be after tank is installed (Framed and Trim).

I have an update on Lighting for TANK

Since this is for the Long Term I decided to go T5's this way. NOT all non-dimmable as originally planned.
Shipping and Duty has overhead have overhead cost.....so I bought a mix for flexible use on (New Tank, Frag Tank, Kitchen Tank)

-> (2x) 4 foot (PAIR) - 54W T5 (HEP Dimmable Ballast)
-> (1x) 4 Foot (PAIR) - 54W T5 (Hep Non-Dimmable)
-> (1x) 3 foot (SINGLE) - 39W T5 (HEP Dimmable)

I want flexibility with the Blue Plus and Coral Plus Bulb, and Possibly a 24W Purple Plus for some Coloration (Viewing Themes just like my Kitchen Tank).

I do like Sunrise/SunSet light ramp-up/down.

I did contact HELP to ensure there is no Color Shift, Bulb Damage with Dimming. They confirmed NOT. Setting to 100% is same as Non-Dimmable so I can go whatever I want.

And since I'm an Actinic Viewing Time LOVER (I'm getting rid of my DIY RGB Strip)

I got one of these (BLUE LED Strip Lights)

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/172897430072?ul_noapp=true

Highly recommended by a few reefers around here.
If it doesn't work out on new Tank, my Kitchen Strip is in terrible condition.


GOT TO GET BACK ON THE LADDER (Ouch)

 

[Wally.B]

Reef Topic Update ( OLD Tank full of ROCKS/Fish) & (Frag Tank)

Enough Construction talk....

The Old 65G tank is crystal clean. Rocks baked and polished by the Snails and Emerald Crabs.

Keeping ALK/CALC at proper levels (even with no corals in tank).

I've started feeding a bit of Nori since the Crabs are waving their claws during Fish Feeding time.

THE FRAG TANK (is a Mess). Haven't looked at it for weeks.

I did give all the good Corals to a friend for holding.

Frag tank will be shut down. Nothing from it will go into tank (except the one Rock with Moni Growing on it).

Interesting to see that NO Algae is growing on the rock. (Coraline and Bio-film Resists). Just Algae on Glass (and the One Snail can't eat it all).

 

[Rakie]

That's a great pickup with the LED bar Wally

 

[reefmutt]

Man, you must be feeling it! That’s a lot of work..
I like your flex lighting options..

 

[Wally.B]

Ordered some CLEAR 1/4" Acrylic Rods (Rock Work) for NEW TANK


Got these Acrylic RODS after reading up on some rock scaping ideas.

Old Tank had rocks tumbling/falling and on occasion may have scratched the glass. (Can't allow that on the NEW Virgin Starphire Glass)

Drilled Rock and inserted RODS with Putty will help get me the ideal/SOLID rock scaping setup.

I may even drill bottom rocks and insert RODS to give the Glass Bottom Rocks a bit of lift for good Circulation.

 

[Wally.B]

LED STRIP ARRIVES (Quick Initial Impression)

First for $69CDN shipping included the packaging tube is worth $10, and I'm going to keep it for some kind of storage.

The quality of the Aluminum Strip it OUTSTANDING.

The OPTICS Lense like the Orphek I looked at.

The mount 180 degree bracket seem good quality.

BUT WHEN I TURNED IT ON (WOW) not even in tank (lit up the whole REC ROOM). Darn bright as I expected.

Then I took it to my Kitchen Tank with LPS, ZOA's ACANS.

KAAAABOOOOM. POP like I've never seen before.
Overwhelming.

For me a bit too much, but I'll figure out a way to dim it. Maybe raise it, but it amazing. (Found two plugs with Zoa's I never noticed that fell behind a rock...They were glowing like beacons...HELP I'm lost)

Even for the Fixture (replacing the Current Driver) this is one great deal of a light strip.

 

[Wally.B]

Great News on the LED Strip and DIMMING.

I tested my MAG Dimmable LED Current Driver Power Pack. The LED STRIPS beautifully down from MAX to a SPLASH of Blue.

Fully controllable by 0-10Volt so will work with Apex. Or just a Trim Resistor.

 

[Rakie]

If you lift the bottom rocks a hair to get good flow your gobies will love you forever. That will be goby central.

 

[Wally.B]

If you lift the bottom rocks a hair to get good flow your gobies will love you forever. That will be goby central.

Cool. I have a purple Firefly Goby that I never see, maybe this will help.

The Rods arrived today. Pictures always look bigger.

Should have bought the 12 pack for a few more $.
But I have enough to try them out at 1/4". 1/2" is next thickness.

If I can put all base rocks on acrylic feet that will be nice.
I can slide around the 3 Islands I plan on setting up.

 

[reefmutt]

LED STRIP ARRIVES (Quick Initial Impression)

First for $69CDN shipping included the packaging tube is worth $10, and I'm going to keep it for some kind of storage.

The quality of the Aluminum Strip it OUTSTANDING.

The OPTICS Lense like the Orphek I looked at.

The mount 180 degree bracket seem good quality.

BUT WHEN I TURNED IT ON (WOW) not even in tank (lit up the whole REC ROOM). Darn bright as I expected.

Then I took it to my Kitchen Tank with LPS, ZOA's ACANS.

KAAAABOOOOM. POP like I've never seen before.
Overwhelming.

For me a bit too much, but I'll figure out a way to dim it. Maybe raise it, but it amazing. (Found two plugs with Zoa's I never noticed that fell behind a rock...They were glowing like beacons...HELP I'm lost)

Even for the Fixture (replacing the Current Driver) this is one great deal of a light strip.

Interesting! Maybe I'll try one to see how it looks..
Can you post a link? Or will that get you in trouble? I never know..

 

[Wally.B]

Interesting! Maybe I’ll try one to see how it looks..
Can you post a link? Or will that get you in trouble? I never know..

Matt, I posted the link below the picture above......

But here it is again. For us Canadian's they ship from a warehouse in missisauga so quick, no tax (since sourced from china), and no shipping cost.

HERE IS THE EBAY LINK (the one I bought. There is a 36" too from same seller)
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/108W-led-aquarium-light-bar-All-blue-470nm-strip-for-fish-reef-coral-tank-Strip/172897430072?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I was concerned it was too bright at Full ON.....so I took it today to GTA reef which has a similar LED Bars (two kinds).
I compared, and it's not too bright. His can go a bit brighter...and his frag tank looks great.

This strip look like the same blue spectrum, and same pop on corals.

As I posted above, I got it to dim with a replacement Dimmable LED driver Power Supply.

The difference is the unit I got has the lenses can narrow down the LED's that are 180 degree (naturally) down to what appears to be around 90 degrees (so it tightens the light beam. From what briefly saw it will cover about 24" since GTA frag tank was 36" and he uses two strips.
It might be ideal for my tank.

We'll see. For me one is enough for now.

 

[reefmutt]

Thanks for the info, Wally.
Wasn’t paying attention..
With my AI Primes, I may be overdoing it with this but may be interesting to put on some other tanks.

 

[Rakie]

Thanks for the info, Wally.
Wasn’t paying attention..
With my AI Primes, I may be overdoing it with this but may be interesting to put on some other tanks.

I might suggest looking into some UV LED's specifically for a different kind of pop. At our last club meeting, a vendor brought a few flashlights, one was a UV dive light... O M G. It was like an acid trip at a rave, forget about reefbrites, pfft, I'm talking the most obscene florescence I've ever seen in my life.

That's why Radions keep making the UV and Violet stronger and stronger with each model. UV / Violet colors are the king of pop -- Royal Blue makes things pop not because it's blue -- but because it has trace amounts of that UV nm.

On a scale of 1-10, his Royal BLue flashlight made corals look like a 10, until I saw the UV light in action... Then that RB turned into a 5, while the UV turn scored a 12. Insane verbally does zero justice to the transformation achieved with a UV.