My Project ★ GENESIS ★ 110G (Miracle) SPS Dream Tank - (I) Pre-Build Thread
- Thread starter Wally.B
- Start date
Wally.B
Active member
Thanks for the "vote of confidence".
I'm not a carpenter and certainly don't know much about structural integrity, so I like to "over do things, to overcome my lack of build knowledge".
Stand should hold vertical weight no problem.
However I really want no "side-to-side" movement (like when cleaning tank glass with a magnet, since my old stand would wiggle a bit on the resistance.
Thinking "one-crossbar" across for wall facing side.
Mostly since the top of the stand will be attached to TOP-PLYWOOD and the side "FLAT 2x4's"
So far the whole wood/screws/glue cost was $55 which is much MUCH cheaper than the metal stands I looked at ($645+tax)
Biggest Next Challenge will be screwing the boards together (with hope I can make it all SQUARE and LEVEL).
No matter how level I make THE STAND, I know the basement concrete floor may not be perfect (That is where the Cedar Wood shimmies will come into play...hoping not many needed)
I'm not a carpenter and certainly don't know much about structural integrity, so I like to "over do things, to overcome my lack of build knowledge".
Stand should hold vertical weight no problem.
However I really want no "side-to-side" movement (like when cleaning tank glass with a magnet, since my old stand would wiggle a bit on the resistance.
Thinking "one-crossbar" across for wall facing side.
Mostly since the top of the stand will be attached to TOP-PLYWOOD and the side "FLAT 2x4's"
So far the whole wood/screws/glue cost was $55 which is much MUCH cheaper than the metal stands I looked at ($645+tax)
Biggest Next Challenge will be screwing the boards together (with hope I can make it all SQUARE and LEVEL).
No matter how level I make THE STAND, I know the basement concrete floor may not be perfect (That is where the Cedar Wood shimmies will come into play...hoping not many needed)
Wally.B
Active member
AQUARIUM STAND (Completed)
Here are the steps of the build. (I did actually learn as I built, some interesting tricks to make it SQUARE).
To my surprise (thank's to Home Depot's Exact Cuts) and (My Build, Square, Set, as I GO method)
IT CAME OUT PERFECTLY (LEVEL and SQUARE)
HERE IT IS
It doesn't wobble a bit
Here are the steps of the build. (I did actually learn as I built, some interesting tricks to make it SQUARE).
To my surprise (thank's to Home Depot's Exact Cuts) and (My Build, Square, Set, as I GO method)
IT CAME OUT PERFECTLY (LEVEL and SQUARE)
HERE IT IS
It doesn't wobble a bit
Wally.B
Active member
IT JUST HIT ME (The Kitchen Tank Sump will Fit Under Stand)
I never thought about this AT ALL, and just noticed this with Stand Beside My Kitchen TANK SUmp..
With the DEEPER 24" tank, that sump will fit NO PROBLEM under the Stand.
That means my whole SUMP ROOM will get back a TON of SPACE.
It was never possible with the 18" x 36" Tank. IMPOSSIBLE!! (thus the crammed room and lousy access to clean old tank)
I'm really, REALLY HAPPY with this unplanned, unexpected turn of events!!!
Might be even room for a Utility Drawer at the TOP, even Raise Sump on a Platform Shelf a bit (WOW).
I never thought about this AT ALL, and just noticed this with Stand Beside My Kitchen TANK SUmp..
With the DEEPER 24" tank, that sump will fit NO PROBLEM under the Stand.
That means my whole SUMP ROOM will get back a TON of SPACE.
It was never possible with the 18" x 36" Tank. IMPOSSIBLE!! (thus the crammed room and lousy access to clean old tank)
I'm really, REALLY HAPPY with this unplanned, unexpected turn of events!!!
Might be even room for a Utility Drawer at the TOP, even Raise Sump on a Platform Shelf a bit (WOW).
Wally.B
Active member
FINAL Aquarium STAND Assembly (Glue and Screw) Built to hold up a "TANK"
So since the Stand Turned out (using only a few PILOT screws). Next Step is to PERMANETLY Put it together.
I decided against the (CONTRACTORS Adhesive) since it set's too quick, also is too thick (got some good advice from a friend).
Instead I'm using Carpenters glue. Dries CLEAR, Easy Clean up with Wet Towel, and gives me working time to wiggle the (TAKEN APART Leg) back into SAME GOOD POSITION.
The trick to keep stand from changing is, I AM DOING ONE LEG AT A TIME.
GLUE is like a 100 Screws across the joints (when it dries clamped tight).
CLAMP were to Set things in PLACE while glue was workable, then Screws went in (near clamp points), so I can move on to Next Leg.
Few extra screws were added in key points where I couldn't glue effectively.
BELIEVE IT OR Not.....I've never done this before (as effective and solid assembly).
So since the Stand Turned out (using only a few PILOT screws). Next Step is to PERMANETLY Put it together.
I decided against the (CONTRACTORS Adhesive) since it set's too quick, also is too thick (got some good advice from a friend).
Instead I'm using Carpenters glue. Dries CLEAR, Easy Clean up with Wet Towel, and gives me working time to wiggle the (TAKEN APART Leg) back into SAME GOOD POSITION.
The trick to keep stand from changing is, I AM DOING ONE LEG AT A TIME.
GLUE is like a 100 Screws across the joints (when it dries clamped tight).
CLAMP were to Set things in PLACE while glue was workable, then Screws went in (near clamp points), so I can move on to Next Leg.
Few extra screws were added in key points where I couldn't glue effectively.
BELIEVE IT OR Not.....I've never done this before (as effective and solid assembly).
Last edited:
Wally.B
Active member
PHOTO BREAK (While 2nd LEG Glue Dries) 2nd Kessil on the Way.
The Kitchen Tank appears to like my Neglect, or maybe I notice things change when I don't pay attention for a while. (Noticed the Zoa Garden Filling in, and the Racordia's Spliting)
I mentioned before My Kessil went Flaky but I fixed it with Vaccum and Contact Cleaner Spray.
However since it may still go someday in the future, Kessil offered me a replacement at a fair POST WARRANTY cost. So I took their offer and a 2nd Kessil is on the way.
With 2 Kessil (linked), I may two Kessils and try removing the 4x T5's (2 on Dimmable Ballast) from Kitchen LPS/mix Tank and use them for NEW TANK.
If the FLAKY Kessil eventually fails, I have a backup.
I do hate the Kessil Shimmer so I turn down Surface Circulation when it's on for Evening Blue Viewing (but it's great for photos)
The Kitchen Tank appears to like my Neglect, or maybe I notice things change when I don't pay attention for a while. (Noticed the Zoa Garden Filling in, and the Racordia's Spliting)
I mentioned before My Kessil went Flaky but I fixed it with Vaccum and Contact Cleaner Spray.
However since it may still go someday in the future, Kessil offered me a replacement at a fair POST WARRANTY cost. So I took their offer and a 2nd Kessil is on the way.
With 2 Kessil (linked), I may two Kessils and try removing the 4x T5's (2 on Dimmable Ballast) from Kitchen LPS/mix Tank and use them for NEW TANK.
If the FLAKY Kessil eventually fails, I have a backup.
I do hate the Kessil Shimmer so I turn down Surface Circulation when it's on for Evening Blue Viewing (but it's great for photos)
Wally.B
Active member
GLUING TRICK (Temp HOLDING Braces) To Keep OUTTER Frame Proper
I came up with this GLUING TRICK after a Bit of Struggle on the first leg.
The problem was when I removed the Pilot Holding Screws it was tough to line things up as originally set (SQUARE and Alignments).
I bought these braces with intent to use them (but gluing is better), so I used them as Temporary holders of the Outer Frame (While I remove in inner 2x4's for Gluing)
With the braces there, nothing shifted, and Gluing was a snap.
Once screws are back in, and glue dries a bit, the Braces come off.
Wish I came up with this idea for the first leg.
I came up with this GLUING TRICK after a Bit of Struggle on the first leg.
The problem was when I removed the Pilot Holding Screws it was tough to line things up as originally set (SQUARE and Alignments).
I bought these braces with intent to use them (but gluing is better), so I used them as Temporary holders of the Outer Frame (While I remove in inner 2x4's for Gluing)
With the braces there, nothing shifted, and Gluing was a snap.
Once screws are back in, and glue dries a bit, the Braces come off.
Wish I came up with this idea for the first leg.
Wally.B
Active member
IDEA ( SUMP ROOM FLOOR) RAISED / Grated / Insulated-From-Concrete
Building things brings me peace of mind to think creatively.
I have to write down this idea.
-> New Tank will be on higher STAND, Plus the EuroTrim = (Harder to reach into tank)
Why not RAISE the FLOOR in the SUMP ROOM?
Maybe one/two levels and HIGHEST POINT in Front of Tank at the back.
With Kitchen SUmp out of way, that certainly will be Possible & Easy.
Something I can't do in my Kitchen but Sump Room is Game!!
I noticed when at home depot they have a pre-fab decking material. (Could work if price is right, if not then OLD Stool will have to do)]
Since new Reno on sump room will the 100% sealed, the GRATING idea will just allow spills to flow under raised floor (and flow into basement drain along designed path)
It would also Insulate me from GROUNDED Concrete (since on occasing I've gotten a small zap doing something in socks, and not rubber shoes)
Building things brings me peace of mind to think creatively.
I have to write down this idea.
-> New Tank will be on higher STAND, Plus the EuroTrim = (Harder to reach into tank)
Why not RAISE the FLOOR in the SUMP ROOM?
Maybe one/two levels and HIGHEST POINT in Front of Tank at the back.
With Kitchen SUmp out of way, that certainly will be Possible & Easy.
Something I can't do in my Kitchen but Sump Room is Game!!
I noticed when at home depot they have a pre-fab decking material. (Could work if price is right, if not then OLD Stool will have to do)]
Since new Reno on sump room will the 100% sealed, the GRATING idea will just allow spills to flow under raised floor (and flow into basement drain along designed path)
It would also Insulate me from GROUNDED Concrete (since on occasing I've gotten a small zap doing something in socks, and not rubber shoes)
Wally.B
Active member
Thanks Tenurepro.
The STAND IS Finished and Dry. (I did some pushing and shaking. SOLID AS A ROCK)
This is last time I'll ever see it upside down.
I don't have much to do till tank arrives, so will now have time to drop by and see your Radion Diffusers.
You made that great YOUtube video (One the of best reviews vid I've ever seen. A must watch for anyone considering a Diffuser)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRqzWpJlqA4
but nothing is like seeing a light in person so I have to drop by.
Last edited:
tenurepro
New member
My Project ★ GENESIS ★ 110G (Miracle) SPS Dream Tank - (I) Pre-Build Thread
My Project ★ GENESIS ★ 110G (Miracle) SPS Dream Tank - (I) Pre-Build Thread
Thanks Man
Me reef es su reef [emoji4] come on down
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My Project ★ GENESIS ★ 110G (Miracle) SPS Dream Tank - (I) Pre-Build Thread
Thanks Tenurepro.
The STAND IS Finished and Dry. (I did some pushing and shaking. SOLID AS A ROCK)
This is last time I'll ever see it upside down.
I don't have much to do till tank arrives, so will now have time to drop by and see your Radion Diffusers.
You made that great YOUtube video (One the of best reviews vid I've ever seen. A must watch for anyone considering a Diffuser)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRqzWpJlqA4
but nothing is like seeing a light in person so I have to drop by.
Thanks Man
Me reef es su reef [emoji4] come on down
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wally.B
Active member
WALL Portal Cut Out (TANK INSTALLED on STAND)
With Stand in Place, I measured where Tank will Exactly be (Height).
The final rough cut has been done (It wasn't easy to keep wall from ripping apart, but it went ok EXCEPT for CORNER Trim....not an issue)
We'll that tank is a little smaller (100 Gallons Smaller), but gives me an idea of how things will be.
Now I wait for the real tank.
With Stand in Place, I measured where Tank will Exactly be (Height).
The final rough cut has been done (It wasn't easy to keep wall from ripping apart, but it went ok EXCEPT for CORNER Trim....not an issue)
We'll that tank is a little smaller (100 Gallons Smaller), but gives me an idea of how things will be.
Now I wait for the real tank.
Wally.B
Active member
MOCKING UP ( Aquarium In-Wall) IDEAS
Fooling around with some of Trim/Panel Mock ups to help me visualize possibilities (and some Graphics Overlay).
Colors are way off, the visual help me think.
It's interesting to See Trim (Protruding from Drywall). For years I got use to tank being Receeded.
I Need to keep playing with idea's till I like something.
Views are a bit deceiving since Front Wall Below Tank will be my DESK and not seen at all.
I'm getting the feeling no need to be fancy. Just match Panels with DRYWALL, and GET TRIM COLOR right.
If I smuggle some of ED's Beautiful SPS over the border, nobody will notice Drywall, Trim or the Glass
Fooling around with some of Trim/Panel Mock ups to help me visualize possibilities (and some Graphics Overlay).
Colors are way off, the visual help me think.
It's interesting to See Trim (Protruding from Drywall). For years I got use to tank being Receeded.
I Need to keep playing with idea's till I like something.
Views are a bit deceiving since Front Wall Below Tank will be my DESK and not seen at all.
I'm getting the feeling no need to be fancy. Just match Panels with DRYWALL, and GET TRIM COLOR right.
If I smuggle some of ED's Beautiful SPS over the border, nobody will notice Drywall, Trim or the Glass
Last edited:
Wally.B
Active member
Looking great, keep it up! I'm surprised it's not wet yet
Patience, patience Rakie.
You know I'd love to rush, but not this time. This for next 15 years.
But if you want Water. See next post.
Wally.B
Active member
Tank With Water (Backing / Reflection ) Analysis
When I designed the sump room last time, there was a reason for the back wall blue. (It allow me to have blue tank backing without painting or putting a backing on).
But with Tank HIGHER, and New SIDE VIEW, things need to be changed.
So I filled tank with some water to analyze reflections and view thru tank.
FOR THE FRONT VIEW (The Drywall STUD and Hollow Cavity will be exposed)
*SIMPLE FIX* (Put a cover on the DRYWALL Cavity and paint is a slight brighter blue for Blending)
For SIDE VIEW there is a reflection off LEFT TANK Glass. Of course that side will also have Overflow and possibly black film.
* A Small Fix will be to extend the BLUE WALL a bit **
TOP of Tank will be higher (so that White Strip for OLD Tank setup will have to be raised, or painted blue)
It will never be perfect as a TANK Backing (but worked great for old Tank if your never looked really close)
When I designed the sump room last time, there was a reason for the back wall blue. (It allow me to have blue tank backing without painting or putting a backing on).
But with Tank HIGHER, and New SIDE VIEW, things need to be changed.
So I filled tank with some water to analyze reflections and view thru tank.
FOR THE FRONT VIEW (The Drywall STUD and Hollow Cavity will be exposed)
*SIMPLE FIX* (Put a cover on the DRYWALL Cavity and paint is a slight brighter blue for Blending)
For SIDE VIEW there is a reflection off LEFT TANK Glass. Of course that side will also have Overflow and possibly black film.
* A Small Fix will be to extend the BLUE WALL a bit **
TOP of Tank will be higher (so that White Strip for OLD Tank setup will have to be raised, or painted blue)
It will never be perfect as a TANK Backing (but worked great for old Tank if your never looked really close)
Wally.B
Active member
Project GENESIS (Phase 1) SUMP-ROOM Un-build/Deconstruct (Complete)
Today worked on completing the Sump Room Gutting AND inside Cut Outs, PLUS (of OLD Water Damaged Bottom Drywall)
Before and After shows progress over Last Month.
Both Tanks and Both Sumps are still fully Running (That is a miracle job in itself)
I just have to work on Bottom Walls (Heal and Seal) and then THE BUILD CAN START (When Tank Arrives)
Today worked on completing the Sump Room Gutting AND inside Cut Outs, PLUS (of OLD Water Damaged Bottom Drywall)
Before and After shows progress over Last Month.
Both Tanks and Both Sumps are still fully Running (That is a miracle job in itself)
I just have to work on Bottom Walls (Heal and Seal) and then THE BUILD CAN START (When Tank Arrives)
Wally.B
Active member
LIGHTING DECISION (For Next Year +) 6 x T5 (39W) + with LED [[ No 250W MH ]]
This has been a difficult decision and I've been pondering for a long time.
I have to move forward on Lighting as Part of the Electrical Build.
I have decided for many reasons to Start the New Tank on T5's and (Some kind of DIY Led for Actinic/POP)
** YES, I HATE Bulb Replacement **, but Benefits outweigh Downside.
I am about to order 3x DIY (T5 Kits) with HEP Ballasts ( Exact Same Ballast as in ATI Fixture)
I like the Micro-4 Reflectors since I have both to COMPARE.
Both are clip-on , but the Micro-T has better Multi Angle Reflector which you can tell directs light better (when looking into it).
To not confuse anyone. Above Photo and Below Photo (the Reflectors are switched LEFT / RIGHT)
It a bit wider too.
The decision for T5 is the following:
-> Short Term SMALLER Investment on Ballast/Reflectors
-> Can STOP buying T5 bulbs if I decide for something else
-> Proven ATI Blue Plus Bulb for SPS Coloration & Growth
-> Less Intensity compare to my 250W MH (Less Power consumption)
-> No shimmer, Even Light Distribution compared to ANY LED option.
-> REALLY WANT THIS NEXT TANK to have Best Chance to do GOOD.
I'll add some kind of LED (from my DIY parts) for off peak lighting.
Maybe even the Extra Kessil I have coming.
My MOVE TO LED is just postponed (let the technology evolve).
This has been a difficult decision and I've been pondering for a long time.
I have to move forward on Lighting as Part of the Electrical Build.
I have decided for many reasons to Start the New Tank on T5's and (Some kind of DIY Led for Actinic/POP)
** YES, I HATE Bulb Replacement **, but Benefits outweigh Downside.
I am about to order 3x DIY (T5 Kits) with HEP Ballasts ( Exact Same Ballast as in ATI Fixture)
I like the Micro-4 Reflectors since I have both to COMPARE.
Both are clip-on , but the Micro-T has better Multi Angle Reflector which you can tell directs light better (when looking into it).
To not confuse anyone. Above Photo and Below Photo (the Reflectors are switched LEFT / RIGHT)
It a bit wider too.
The decision for T5 is the following:
-> Short Term SMALLER Investment on Ballast/Reflectors
-> Can STOP buying T5 bulbs if I decide for something else
-> Proven ATI Blue Plus Bulb for SPS Coloration & Growth
-> Less Intensity compare to my 250W MH (Less Power consumption)
-> No shimmer, Even Light Distribution compared to ANY LED option.
-> REALLY WANT THIS NEXT TANK to have Best Chance to do GOOD.
I'll add some kind of LED (from my DIY parts) for off peak lighting.
Maybe even the Extra Kessil I have coming.
My MOVE TO LED is just postponed (let the technology evolve).
Last edited:
Wally.B
Active member
T5 (54W-48"/46 or 39W-36"/32) Next Difficult Decision
I kind of stuck on 54W or 39W T5 Decision. (Price is almost the same).
-> Part of the reason is my Tank is in Wall and Flush (DRYwall overlaps 1/2" One Side)
-> Part of the reason is my Euro Top Trim
As shown below I have a few options.
-> If I go 54W I will get great lighting across the whole tank width (45" if you subtract the 1/2" glass on either side), but bulbs are 46" of light area.
-----> Part of bulb will overhang over One Side of tank where External Overflow is (but all this is behind wall)
-----> Also light will pass thru and reflect off of Glass Top Euro Trim
-> If I go 39W or 32" bulb length that means (if all bulbs centered) 6.5" on either side of tank will get less lighting.
----> I could do what I did in my Kitchen 48' Tank (Stagger the shorter bulbs)
It two factors for this decision :
----> Lighting for Corals
----> Look of tank
I think I need to hold off and wait for tank to Arrive (Try the 39W bulbs and ballast I have over Frag Tank)
I kind of stuck on 54W or 39W T5 Decision. (Price is almost the same).
-> Part of the reason is my Tank is in Wall and Flush (DRYwall overlaps 1/2" One Side)
-> Part of the reason is my Euro Top Trim
As shown below I have a few options.
-> If I go 54W I will get great lighting across the whole tank width (45" if you subtract the 1/2" glass on either side), but bulbs are 46" of light area.
-----> Part of bulb will overhang over One Side of tank where External Overflow is (but all this is behind wall)
-----> Also light will pass thru and reflect off of Glass Top Euro Trim
-> If I go 39W or 32" bulb length that means (if all bulbs centered) 6.5" on either side of tank will get less lighting.
----> I could do what I did in my Kitchen 48' Tank (Stagger the shorter bulbs)
It two factors for this decision :
----> Lighting for Corals
----> Look of tank
I think I need to hold off and wait for tank to Arrive (Try the 39W bulbs and ballast I have over Frag Tank)
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