My Project ★ GENESIS ★ 110G (Miracle) SPS Dream Tank - (II) Build Thread

People usually do TTM for like 60 days or more.

Are you sure. Everything I read point to 3-4 Transfers (3 day/72 hours each). Then back to DT.

Maybe you mean Fallow Period to Rid a whole tank of any ich, like I need to do for my Kitchen Tank if (Polyp Lab Medic) doesn't work.

I have a Plan for the Copperband.

I put in a rock from my Refuge Area of my Sump (For the new 110G Tank).

He took to it right away.

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When I'm ready, and other 2 fish (Black Cap, Tri Color Wrasse) are done QT/Hospital Treatment. 2-3 weeks from now.

I will move (All 3 NEW fish) into the Refuge Section of SUMP.
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It's only 5 Gallons, but it's tall, and lots of life. Sand bed too fro Wrasse.
They will get good filtered water from the 150 Gallon system.

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The 3 new fish will get to know each other.
Copperband will get plenty of live food and lean to eat.

It will free up the QT Frag Tank which is working really great for Filtration.
And that is where I'll put in the New Sunburs Anthias.

Then when all 4 New FISH ready. They go into 110 DT with new Rock Scape.

It will be enough FISH for short term, to start Corals.
 
Starting (Pre-DT QT-Transfer Treatment) NEW FISH

My online Order came in.

Starting some basic Conditioning Treatments for the two QT Tanks. (Tri Color Wrasse, BlackCap // Copperband )

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-> API (General Cure) if for Parasites (Powder 1/2 Packet for 10 Gallon)
-> Prazi Pro (Same as API) but drop for larger Frag Tank QT Fish

Both for next 10 days. Approx 2 weeks.

-> Got some Masstick food, and will use
------> The Kent Zoe (Vitamins soak)
------> Same for Garlic Guard Food Flavour Enhancer(to get Copperband possibly eating non-Live Food)
 
Be careful with wrasse and Prazi Pro, it's slightly contested but there's a handful of people who will tell you it killed their wrasse and a handful who say it's just fine.

It killed my wrasse, and my friends wrasses. Dose light with wrasses and Prazi, and don't mix any meds with it unless you are POSITIVE there will be NO interaction (Prime is deadly when mixed with Prazi for example)
 
Be careful with wrasse and Prazi Pro, it's slightly contested but there's a handful of people who will tell you it killed their wrasse and a handful who say it's just fine.

It killed my wrasse, and my friends wrasses. Dose light with wrasses and Prazi, and don't mix any meds with it unless you are POSITIVE there will be NO interaction (Prime is deadly when mixed with Prazi for example)



Also api general cure has less concentrated amount of Praziquantel which is found in PraziPro; use one of the other but not both. I've used api general cure successfully on several delicate wrasses as per the recommended dosing amounts (1 sachet per 10 gal)


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Really nice build

Thanks. More to come and I'm trying to get the final bits and pieces into place.

It's strange. I noticed I haven't been looking at the new tank at all (from front side). Like it doesn't exist.

Too busy on the back side and dealing with new fish.

I assume this is related to the fact that Tank is just a mishmash pile of rocks, and no corals.

Then I may start looking VERY CLOSELY again.
 
Also api general cure has less concentrated amount of Praziquantel which is found in PraziPro; use one of the other but not both. I’ve used api general cure successfully on several delicate wrasses as per the recommended dosing amounts (1 sachet per 10 gal)

Be careful with wrasse and Prazi Pro, it's slightly contested but there's a handful of people who will tell you it killed their wrasse and a handful who say it's just fine.

It killed my wrasse, and my friends wrasses. Dose light with wrasses and Prazi, and don't mix any meds with it unless you are POSITIVE there will be NO interaction (Prime is deadly when mixed with Prazi for example)

I am being careful. Certainly will NOT be mixing any MEDS.

Reading the brochures, I like the API product (1/2 packet for 5 Gallon) better for initial treatment (Transfer Tank) and understand that at end carbon should be run to remove/stop treatment.
It my case since this is not DT that will be easily, since I will be dumping the treated water.

The Prazi Product appears to be something use can use for ongoing treatment (in DT), however I will only treat Hospital/QT tanks. (In this case Frag Tank QT)
 
Dosing PraziPro is when I caught Dino's twice! Also, the problem with API is the prazi is in pill (powder) form, and is extremely hard to mix into the water column.

I wish prazi came in an edible form you could mix with food like metroplex

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Dosing PraziPro is when I caught Dino's twice! Also, the problem with API is the prazi is in pill (powder) form, and is extremely hard to mix into the water column.

I wish prazi came in an edible form you could mix with food like metroplex

That weird . Maybe I misunderstood, and you meant "PraziPro made you notice Dinos"
I can't see you getting Dino's from a Treatment. Many thing can trigger I dino Bloom.
Possibly your existing Dino's got fueled by the product, since Dino's are supposedly in everyone's tank but under control.

The API was easy. I mixed in a cup of RO water and just poured it into Tank.

Man...You are making me scared of PraziPro. I'd expect some warning labels on there if what you are saying is true.

Most important. I won't treat DT's with meds. That is only for QT and Hospitals.

Even the ZOE vitamins is something I am reading over. Sounds safe.
Actually sound very safe to not Cause Algae Blooms like other Vitamins can.

BUT MY NEW TANK (Additive Free. Only thing going in is Water, Salt, Alk, Calcium, maybe Mag, and fish food)
 
Things look REALLY GOOD for Copperband (Now Eatting Masstick Food SOAKED in KENT ZOE Vitamins)

The Copperband in Trasnfer Tank #3 has been nibbling on the Tigger Copeppods and Live Baby Brine Shrimps. (Day or so)

I thought I'd try the Masstic Feeder again.

This time I pre-soaked the Masstick with KEN ZOE Vitamins.

He went for it right away.

https://youtu.be/sq2slA3U2pI

And kept eating it all up. (As in the video above)

I read the ZOE label and you can add these vitamins to the Shrimp and Tiger Farm to increase their Consumption Value.

At this pace he is going to do well (API treatment/vitamins and No ICH), So will be really healthy to go into new Tank.
 
Everything is designed to reach via equipment Cord lengths, (so no extension cords from EB8, Probes, etc), PLUS easy to remove pump, heater, to clean and then put back.

Can you expand a little on what you mean by 'equipment cord lengths'? I'm trying to come up with a way to have hidden wires like you have, but still be able to remove pumps for maintenance without having to untangle the cords from the raceways.

thanks and great build thread!
 
Can you expand a little on what you mean by 'equipment cord lengths'? I'm trying to come up with a way to have hidden wires like you have, but still be able to remove pumps for maintenance without having to untangle the cords from the raceways.

thanks and great build thread!
Sure, I will elaborate, since wiring management was one of my TOP GOALs after doing things kind of wrong last time. (Those raceways looked great, but only for a while...inside...Quickly got tangles and hard to pull stuff thru/out).
As you can see, I only did the Framing Raceway this time (around the Apex DISPLAY/SHELF AREA), and it's handy.
The more runs you have, the better you will have flexibility for the future.

So I assume you watched this VIDEO.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nk-nwY4v0go&t=7s
Where I show the openings (HOLE) in the Drywall, and how the Various WHITE PANELS were placed. THAT IS THE KEY CRTICAL DESIGN POINT (when I planned CORD LENGTHS).
So it's not that I cut my cord lengths.....It's that I did my placements based on CORD LENGTHS

....and the Length of EQUIPMENT cords are long enough to get from A-to-B without adding an Extension cord.....Since you can get to anyhere with extension cord, but that leads to open contacts. Possiby disconnect, and tangles, and cost of extension cord.

You want to place STUFF ON WALLS (EB8's, Control Boxes, etc) where your PLUGS will REACH the Thing you PLUG into it and WHERE THEY NEED TO BE in your TANK, or SUMP.


*BUT IF IN A ROOM like I did, spread out ** If you are doing inside a CABINET, then lengths are not so much an issue. (In cabinets, you have to bundle the cords tidy, since they are probably too long)

THE NEXT IMPORTANT PART is how those wires will RUN from POINT-A to POINT-B.

-> Some on Strict PATHS.
-> Some just behind Drwall (but go into Wall, and Come out somewhere ideal)

A few Examples below.

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Some wire Runs are PERMANENT like your AUTO TOP UP. But still maybe one day you want to replaced or fix.

And others, removed often like Circulation Pumps which Calcify, or get dirty.

AGAIN. DO AS MANY HOLE (Hidden as you can), they are always Handy.

***** AND Make HOLES HANDY...Which mean make sure you can get your hand into some holes to get behind wall. (BIG ENOUGH HOLES) *****

Not all runs you will be able to do by hand reach. But a string, or fish wire, will work (Vertically)....Stiff wires (horizontally/Diagonally)


ANOTHER EXAMPLE of What I improved this time is SOME OPEN (but Hidden Pockets)

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AND One thing which I think you problably noticed is the Few WHITE, RECTANCULR (Very HOLLOW CONDUITS). Great since my whole arm fits in.

NOTE (This is not final clean wiring):

I'm still running wires and hooking stuff up, so things are a bit messy, and when I'm done, I'll tuck everything away (not tangled....Using CLICK-RESUABLE Tie-Wraps, or Elastic Band)

HOPE THAT HELPS.

Share if you ever get some good work done and come up with new ideas. I to learn from others, as much as I like to share my ideas.
 
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ah, gotcha. cord length determines controller placement, not vice versa. neat idea, but i feel it may be difficult to implement without a fish room.

thanks for the reply and keep up the good work. really enjoy the innovative ideas you're coming up with. especially the mini sub. now if those come with a harpoon function for catching crabs.....
 
ah, gotcha. cord length determines controller placement, not vice versa. neat idea, but i feel it may be difficult to implement without a fish room.

thanks for the reply and keep up the good work. really enjoy the innovative ideas you're coming up with. especially the mini sub. now if those come with a harpoon function for catching crabs.....

Here you go.

https://www.zapals.com/silverlit-82418-remote-control-submarine-toy-with-camera.html?geoip_country=CA&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxYSSvvqz2gIVwrbACh3rhweVEAYYBCABEgJ9GfD_BwE

Too expensive Sub I found when I was looking for the toy sub, but might work for getting crabs. My emerald crabs latch on the thongs I use to feed them Nori. I have to shake them off.

BTW. I only used one sub. Few minutes. Rinsed and dried it and returned it, since kids lost interest quickly. No way I was going to put batteries and metal in the Reef Tank.
 
Things look REALLY GOOD for Copperband (Now Eatting Masstick Food SOAKED in KENT ZOE Vitamins)



The Copperband in Trasnfer Tank #3 has been nibbling on the Tigger Copeppods and Live Baby Brine Shrimps. (Day or so)



I thought I'd try the Masstic Feeder again.



This time I pre-soaked the Masstick with KEN ZOE Vitamins.



He went for it right away.



https://youtu.be/sq2slA3U2pI



And kept eating it all up. (As in the video above)



I read the ZOE label and you can add these vitamins to the Shrimp and Tiger Farm to increase their Consumption Value.



At this pace he is going to do well (API treatment/vitamins and No ICH), So will be really healthy to go into new Tank.



Go copper go!


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FATHEAD Suburst Anthias (Is here) Nice Fish. Really Feisty.

So you don't get many Fish Store that Deliver to your house. CoralReefShop owner Red dropped by my house to delivery the Fathead Anthias, and two Pepermints for my Kitchen tank. He got a tour of the new Build while here.

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Color of this Sunburst Anthias is pretty spectacular.

I got the medium one, there is a smaller and one larger left.

This Anthias is quite different from the last ones. Not as fragile. Seem to be feisty like a Blue Green Chromis type fish.

Red says he already eats Frozen, and might be pecking at flake.
 
DECISION DAY (End of Tank Transfers for Copperband) Many OPTIONS (New Sunburts Anthias Future [A PAIR?])

So tonight 2AM will be 72 Hours of Tank Transfer #3 for Copperband.
He is doing amazing. NO ICH. Eatting Masstick like a PIG (all I give him). Also pecking around at Copepods and Live Brine Shrimps.

I no longer have option for Tank Trasfer #4 (10 Gal) since the new Sunburst Anthias is there.

OPTIONS for COPPERBAND:

-> Move to NEW Tank [DT area]........ (Not ready. Rockscape not done)
-> Move to NEW TANK [Refuge in Sump].....Perfect place since full of life and great way to isolate in new Tank (STill Rockscape ready)

-> Move to QT (Frag Tank) with Tri Color Wrasse/BlackCap Fish.....No issues with Fish, and That QT is very stable (Buys me time for all move to NEW TANK)


So I am thinking about the NEW Sunburst ANTHIAS (After more reading).
-> Would be cool to have a pair (male/female)
-> Could get a 2nd one (the larger or smaller one)
-> Risk is I get two males
-> Maybe just one Anthias is good enough (They are hard to keep, and need lost of feeding)
-> Understand that Suburst won't get along with any other Anthias (so all anthias should go in all at once)
-> Another factor is the Sunburst could be bullied by my Larger SPOTBREAST ANGEL (which keeps my Firefly golby in a hole)

-> One OPtion is I get rid of Spotbreast Angel in NEW TANK, and bring in all community type fish (Tri-Color Wrasse, BlackCap)
(option A)-------> Move him to Kitchen tank (after PolyLab Medic ICH treatment)

(Option B)-------> in Meantime throw him into QT Frag Tank (and see how he get's along with Copperband, Wrasse and BlackCap)
---------------------------> This will give me chance to see new TANK behavior without Angel (maybe Firefly will come out)
---------------------------> this will give me chance to eventually introduce Sunburt(s) into Frag TANK QT (with the Spotbreast and all new fish together) and pick winners for NEW TANK.

SO my NEXT EFFORT (after finding a place for Copperband) should be to work on NEW TANK Rockscape and make it full or cave, overhangs, nooks and crannies to create plenty of spaces, for a community tank.
 
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Fathead Sunburst Anthias Fish (Day 1 QT) Setup

The new Fathead is doing well.

Make a new QT setup for him. (The SpongeBob house fits perfectly into the Color Décor)

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-> I started API General Cure

-> One Live Rock from DT Refuge
-> Sterilized "Rakie Tree of life".....Looks different since I bleached it (then soaked in RO to remove bleach)
-> Matrix in the Bio Filter along with one Dose of Sechem Stablity
-> Seeded the QT tank with Live Food
------> Tiger Copepods (Scoop full from Farm)
------> (Dozens of) Live Baby Brines (Feed with PhytoFeast, and Zoe Vitamins)
--------------> They get all big after a few days in cultivating Jar.
------> Added PhytoFeast to get them fed

HE TOOK to live feeding right way.

Last night me did eat Frozen Food, but not Flake.

SO FAR SO GOOD (compared toe last Anthias that died after barely a day)
 
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