My rebuild of a 50g cube

Bilk

New member
I placed this thread here because it fully relates to equipment, how a system operates and what enables it to be more user friendly to performing maintenance, which we all know is required to keep a captive reef successfully. It's all about the system and the system is comprised of various components that need to be serviced in order to maintain water quality in a closed system.

Having successfully maintained a 110g for about 10 years, but then moving and having to sell off and disassemble that system, I was reefless from 2002 until 2010 when I initially built this 50g cube. It's located in my main living space and freestanding, away from walls and pretty much a focal point in the space as it's at the bottom of a spiral stair leading from the main level of my home. This location influenced the tank size and it's design.

The tank was running well up through the first half of 2012 when problems arose. For the first six months of 2012 I was involved in a very intense, time sensitive project, working six and sometimes seven days a week. As a result, the system I assembled for this 50g, thinking it was suitable, wasn't. It wasn't as conducive and user friendly for performing the necessary maintenance we all know every tank needs. In addition, the problem that arose went undiscovered until the damage was mostly done. A small leak from the bulkhead feeding the sump caused rusted water to leech into the sump and it went undiscovered for a long time because no water was missing from the system or visible on the floor. It's location made it difficult to detect. In addition, I was running Zeovit, all fine and a good system, but with my limited time and coming home well spent, I wasn't applying the system properly and sometimes not at all.

The results were a massive battle with algae and cyanobacteria, the likes I had never seen. I tried all the remedies and eventually came to the conclusion that the whole system needed to be taken down, cleaned and redone in a much better what. I also believe that cheaping out on the lighting was a contributing factor as I used no name Chinese led imports that were available at the time. I think they have come along further and may not be a bad choice, but not one I'm making at this point.

This is where my rebuild thread starts.

The footprint of a 50g isn't much to speak of and making it a square vs a rectangle complicates things a bit. Further complicating it for me was the location I chose for this tank. In order to make it somewhat serviceable and aesthetically pleasing, the supporting cabinet needed to be no larger than the footprint of the tank. So the confines are tight and fitting everything inside the cabinet is a challenge.

These are a few pics of what it started out as. I designed and built the stand and cabinet.


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Everything was in a nice tight little package, but I soon learned the errors I made. Even though I provided access from three sides, being located where it is, access from the sides wasn't very user friendly. In addition, I hard plummed everything. Big mistake. It was difficult to remove the pump for servicing and even though there's ample height inside the cabinet, extracting the protein skimmer was still problematic. Pumping the Zeovit reactor was a real bummer and forget about removing it for cleaning and exchanging the stones.

The new system will utilize some Zeovit products but will not employ the reactor and stones. Instead I will be running an ATS which I am in the process of building and will add to the thread after it is complete. The remainder of the filtration will be a Tunze 9011 protein skimmer, a passive activated carbon chamber that will be placed in the sump, an ATO I had operating prior and 2 part dosing which was also part of the prior system.
 
Continued:

Some of the changes I've finished making:

The most important from my perspective was better access to the sump and components, so I purchased a 225lb rated TV slide and mounted it to the cabinet, enabling the sump to be extracted from the cabinet more that half way.

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I also purchase heavy duty ball casters, rated for 225lbs each and mounted them so I have the ability to move the tank if need be. I estimated the tank, stand, water, structure and equipment weigh just under 600lbs. So this should be fine. The tank and stand alone weigh about 200lbs and I can move it as it is now, with one hand and zero effort. We'll see how that goes when it's full :) The structure of the stand is made from American black walnut and is assembled with mortise and tenon, glued and doweled through with 5/8" oak dowels. You can sit an elephant on it. It's heavy and strong.

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The next change is the lighting. My old tank had MH with supplemental vho lighting. I love MH but I didn't want the heat, the expense or the noise from requiring a chiller. So It's back to LED, but this time from Kessil - an A350 Tuna Blue. I mounted it to the AI light brackets for the Vegas. I think it looks pretty cool and alloes for much easier raising and lowering that what I had before. Another maintenance improvement as it's no where near in the way as the prior lighting was and is so light it can be raised with one hand if I need to be in the tank.

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And finally, the state everything is in tonight.

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Pretty nifty . I was wondering how u got to the zeovit reactor .LOL
? The weight of the tank/water will keep the sump from tilting when u service it ?
 
Pretty nifty . I was wondering how u got to the zeovit reactor .LOL
? The weight of the tank/water will keep the sump from tilting when u service it ?
Yes. The sump is 20g at capacity (filled to the brim). The sump will extend 2/3rds of it's length from the cabinet. Assuming it's not filled to the brim, at most, about 10g of water plus 2/3rds the weight of the sump plus some metal from the tv stand, should weigh under 100lbs. However when operating, the sump is about 1/3rd full which weighs much less. I think when servicing the tank and having the return pump off, the sump will be half full from overflow water. That's what it was prior. The tank ,stand and just the volume of water in the tank ( not including rock and sand ) weigh approximately 525lbs. I haven't done any moment calculations, but I'm confident it's within the factor of safety by a good margin.

Edit:

Yeah the Zeovit reactor was a bummer and for many reasons LOL
 
I wanted to add - I'm sure all of us take the time to think about how we'll put the tank and it's components together and even after doing so, we believe we have the best solution. However my experience tells me I didn't think of one thing, how easy will it be to service with limited time? Servicing my tank when I had plenty of free time wasn't all that bad. However life isn't always simple and it throws curveballs more often than not. Servicing my tank became problematic when my time was severely limited, I was tired and had some family issues to attend to as well.

So when planning, think of the most limited amount of time you might have and then think about how your design hampers or helps. For when it's easy and quick, we have no problems meeting our obligations to our tanks, but when it requires more time than it should, that's problematic and causes us to put it off for when we "have more time" :)
 
I just switched from a cube to a 40 breeder because the sumps are a PITA, I like your slide idea maybe incorporate a little piece of wood to act as a support when it is extended out. And yes you do not live in California those rollers would add a hold new form of entertainment here. We get nice little waves machines for free once in a while.
 
Well the math was done just to satisfy the unknown :) Torque, or turning forces needed to be considered when analyzing whether or not the sump would cause the tank and stand to topple over, since these are the forces acting opposed to one another vs a lateral force exerted upon the tank/stand at a defined point.

Utilizing the factors that are known - tank size/weight, sump size/weight and capacity of both, we get this:

Net Torque = {(100+385+45) * g * 12"} - {(172 + 32) * g* 5"}
= (6360 - 1020) * g

Basically this yields a positive number (+ve), thus the tank will want to stay in place. If the tank, stand and extended sump were balanced on a line or point parallel and in line with the front legs, the tank/stand assembly would want to rotate in the opposite direction of the extended sump. (picture a see-saw) However since it cannot rotate through the floor - there's concrete below the hardwood flooring, the tank/sump will stay just where it is. Had the number been negative (-ve), it would want to rotate and be pulled over in the direction of the extended sump, as the force of rotation would be greater than the mass of the tank/sump assembly.

The calculation was done assuming the sump is filled to the brim, which is roughly 20g and 172lbs plus the weight of the sump glass, approximately 32lbs. The tank assumptions are 45g net volume water, so roughly 385lbs, 100lbs for the tank glass plus the weight of the stand, assumed to be 45lbs.

In order for the tank to tip utilizing the same scenario - tank and sump all remaining the same, the center (center of gravity) of the sump would have to extend about 3' past the perimeter of the tank/stand.

I feel better now that math and physics confirmed all of this, but I pretty much knew it would. Now if the bolts pull through the 5/8" plywood, well that's another story :)
 
Wow thanks :) But there are some truly amazing builds posted here. I hope I can get the inside of the tank to look as good as the outside.

The stand was fun to build and a bit of a challenge as well. Most times we hide the structure with a covering. I wanted the structure to be the focus of the enclosure. I guess it worked. :)
 
be careful with those casters and your floor if you move it full. The casters might roll nice but they also might leave grooves in your (beautiful) floor. Great way to make things accessible though!
 
be careful with those casters and your floor if you move it full. The casters might roll nice but they also might leave grooves in your (beautiful) floor. Great way to make things accessible though!
Yeah I have two pieces of sheet metal to place on the floor in the path of the rolling if I need to move it when it's filled. The other half wants me to put down stone flooring in this room. That's what prompted the casters. I don't want to break down the tank for that job and make it a BIGGER job LOL Hopefully the plan works and I can roll it as needed to do the floor.
 
A little more progress this morning. Getting the components put back where they belong.

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Also, my new RO/DI unit came. It's massive and much more than I need (300gpd), but it has a few things I like. First, water pressure here in Brooklyn isn't the best. About 50lbs from the street. Not shabby, but I noticed my older unit used to struggle a bit especially when the prefilters started to get filled a bit. So this baby has a booster pump. It also has it's own stand which is a plus for me. I plan on putting casters on this too LOL so I can roll it into storage. No place has been chosen for mounting permanently as of yet.

It was priced right at $400 and came with 2 additional free membranes with further made it a good value.

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I love your stand, great job!

What are the dimensions of your tank?
How did you hide the Kessil A350 wires in the brace, can I see some other pic?

My setup is almost identical to yours but I didn't build the stand.
 
I love your stand, great job!

What are the dimensions of your tank?
How did you hide the Kessil A350 wires in the brace, can I see some other pic?

My setup is almost identical to yours but I didn't build the stand.

Thanks. The stand was fun to build.

The cable/wire runs through a hole I drilled at the top of the vertical section of the support. I wrapped the top with a thick rubber tape. Looks better in person than it does in the pic.

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Tested the slide out sump. I'm happy to say the tank didn't fall on my head :)

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Have the tank and sump filled with vinegar/water solution to clear it of the solvents and such and to test for leaks. All good so far :)

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ATO breakout box is in along with the two float switches. Just have to finish the ATS enclosure.

I use silicon hose that has a 1/8' wall thickness and wrapped the ends with fabric backed rubber tape to protect them from the hose clamps. The quick connects are Polysulfone Couplings. Hopefulley they have enough flow - something I'm also testing now. They'll enable me to take the pump and ATS out easily rather than have to undo the hose clamps each time. The silicon hose enables the sump to easily be extracted from the cabinet, again, without having to deal with the hose clamps.

Everything should be up and running soon :)

I'm just up in the air on substrate. Thinking of going with BRS Special Grade Arag-Alive. Anyone have any input on this stuff?
 
A little more progress this morning. Getting the components put back where they belong.

DSC00078.jpg

DSC00079.jpg

DSC00084.jpg


Also, my new RO/DI unit came. It's massive and much more than I need (300gpd), but it has a few things I like. First, water pressure here in Brooklyn isn't the best. About 50lbs from the street. Not shabby, but I noticed my older unit used to struggle a bit especially when the prefilters started to get filled a bit. So this baby has a booster pump. It also has it's own stand which is a plus for me. I plan on putting casters on this too LOL so I can roll it into storage. No place has been chosen for mounting permanently as of yet.

It was priced right at $400 and came with 2 additional free membranes with further made it a good value.

DSC00081.jpg

U have some nice touches n the equation was a hoot . U may want to change that di to a full canister clear type . I helped a buddy redo his after we got the same reading before the di and after the di with a tds reading .
We are unsure as to why ? He's happy now with the 10inch refillable we put in .
 
Thanks. The stand was fun to build.

The cable/wire runs through a hole I drilled at the top of the vertical section of the support. I wrapped the top with a thick rubber tape. Looks better in person than it does in the pic.

Thanks Bilk! What were the dimensions?
 
I finished the enclosure for the ATS. It looks good. Just hope it works as well as it looks :) I just need to install the LEDs tomorrow.

Right now the system is filled with RO and running with good flow over the mesh. I can't believe how quiet it runs compared to a sock or any other sump outlet I've used in the past. The screen extends below the water line in the sump and there's literally no noise or bubble formation. The system was whisper quiet. The noisiest piece of equipment was the Tunze 9011, and that's pretty quiet. Then I turned on the Vortechs :( Not sure I can live with them now, but don't know what my options are. I'd love to employ a closed loop but not interested in drilling the tank and have the pump on the exterior on the back of the tank.

I guess the led fixture I had before, with three fans, drowned out the Vortechs. Now they're very noticeable. They're a bit more than two years old. Did they make any improvements that have quieted them down?

Some pics of the build to date.


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Very nice ATS looking forward to see how the Tunze works out I got a 40 breeder in the works and the small footprint looks enticing.
 
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