My Snapper Needle Wheel

Also, in general, regarding my philosophy on needle wheels: I'm trying to keep the needles as thin and as dense as possible.

My thinking on material choice for the pins: you don't necessarily need a high impact strength (modulus) material such as lexan. You need something that is tough and has some flex to it.

I think if we can get the needles to move like a "whip", you would get even better bubble shredding. Titanium would be ideal, but in that case you have to worry about bonding to acrylic.

Anyway, from what I hear Sequence should be releasing their NW soon and you can't really compete with molded stuff.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7694809#post7694809 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bommi
Anyway, from what I hear Sequence should be releasing their NW soon and you can't really compete with molded stuff.


They better HURRY UP....I need a new skimmer ASAP! :)
 
Bommi,

I will be quite anxious to see how you plan on incorporating the shaft seal. What you described does not sound adequate.

The shaft seal has two halves... one attached and sealed to the volute (casing) and one that is attached and sealed to the impellar. The two halves have polished surfaces that push against each other when the pump is assembled. Those surfaces create a moveable seal for the shaft to spin, but they still require a good seal against the parts they are attached to.

It doesn't look like you have any way to attach and seal the shaft seal to your impellar. The factory impellar almost certainly has a deep recess that they seal is seated and glued into.

Bill and Spazz's design had this recess machined into the stock that formed the "plate" of the impellar.

Adam
 
i've always wanted to see what thin screws would do as needles. wonder if the threads would slice bubbles better.
 
The screws do work, but it puts alot of drag on the motor. The thinner the pins the better the amprage draw
 
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