My T5 55g tank....and coral lightening

Grim, what combination of bulbs are you running now? Are you using reflectors? I didn't like the look so much with the 3k and a reflector on it, with one it was ok, but with 2 of them in there and with reflectors it made the tank look like it was lit with VHO's almost.

I'm very interested to hear what the PAR is on the 3k. To my eye the bulb was very bright, not scientific at all, but none the less I think it packs some punch.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7859747#post7859747 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
The 3K's appear to have more PAR than the GE 6500K. I got a UVL and D&D sun to compare it to but so far I like the look adding the 3K kinda. I passed one off to a friend who is estatic with the look he is getting.

Does it look orange or yellow to the eye and does it appear to have more par than that ati SUN pro?
 
okay so iam also try the t5 and been following this tread. Here is my question, where are you guys finding the 3k bulbs and how much are they running. Right now my set up is 6x39w t5 4 on the slr reflectors and icecap and two on a tek set up. So far I like what they are doing so I might stick with them. Here is my bubl combo. what do you folks think

front
B+
AB
UVL
B+
AB
B+
back
 
Mchava,

If you go back a page or two I posted the link where I purchased my 3k bulbs. They are $20 each sold in pairs. If you like your current setup you might not want to change it. If you are interested in a less drastic experiment, try swapping out your AB bulbs for 6500k and see what you think. My observation with the AB is a nice bright white but also causes a washed out look. The 6500k brings a little more richness IMO.


p.s. I updated my blog with some more pics
 
Here are some results on the Frogspawn:

Before T5HO:
original.jpg


After about two months with T5HO:
original.jpg


After about one month with 150watt Giessemann 230 T5:
original.jpg



Acropora Hoeksemai turning green after two weeks with 20000K MH DE bulb:
original.jpg

Is this acropora dieing or just turning color? I have it back on 14500K MH but on the green part I don't see any polyps, only on the purple part of the coral. May be the 150 watt 20000K was too weak for this acropora. I just hope it will make it back.
 
well hate to brake it to you but the hoeke is dieing do to high levels of phosphate. When the acro turns green like that its becuase it has to much phospate in the water and its taking to much in. I dont know if it will make it but I would try to frag the top part and see if it makes it. I had one do that same thing. It was more my fault since I left it on the frag plug that it came with. Now I take the plugs off. Hope yours makes it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7860983#post7860983 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mchava
well hate to brake it to you but the hoeke is dieing do to high levels of phosphate. When the acro turns green like that its becuase it has to much phospate in the water and its taking to much in. I dont know if it will make it but I would try to frag the top part and see if it makes it. I had one do that same thing. It was more my fault since I left it on the frag plug that it came with. Now I take the plugs off. Hope yours makes it.


I don't have any phosphate nor nitrate in the water but the acro came to me almost dieing at first. I addjusted it to the light really slowly but the 20000K bulb seemed to be too dark for the acro. I'll frag the top and try to save it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7860983#post7860983 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mchava
well hate to brake it to you but the hoeke is dieing do to high levels of phosphate. When the acro turns green like that its becuase it has to much phospate in the water and its taking to much in. I dont know if it will make it but I would try to frag the top part and see if it makes it. I had one do that same thing. It was more my fault since I left it on the frag plug that it came with. Now I take the plugs off. Hope yours makes it.

Doesnt the skeleton turn green permanently when exposed to eleveated levels of phosphates? Its quite possible he got the coral after the damage was already done to the skeleton. Either way, it doesnt look good or that coral :(
 
Wow, that's about 15% brighter. A few questions if you don't mind -

What are the PAR numbers on the other T5 bulbs that you have tested? What is your process for measuring the PAR?
 
Running in the current setup I checked the PAR in the ATI Blue Plus was in the 240's and the Aquablue is around 290. Haven measured the others in this particular setup but I do know the ATI sun has a little better outoput than the Aquablue. The UVL actinic white is about 10% less than the ATI Aquablue. The UVL super actinic was around 200.

I use a grey pvc collar over the PAR sensor that holds it about an inch away from the lamp and isolates the lamps so I am not reading light from the lamp next to it. Certainly not perfect but close enough for government work.
 
Hey all I don't have time to read the thread but I was talking with TGR about red T5's and he brought up this thread. Here is a tank (was the Zeovit Dream Tank of the Quarter) and he uses a red T5. I've read a few European threads where many folks over there use the tube for Poccis/Damis/etc

mainpic1.jpg


Light.jpg


These are his bulbs

1x39W T5 Ati Aquablue Special (14°K) (inside the Spider).
1x39W T5 Osram Red, color number 60 (inside the Spider).
2x54W T5 Osram Blue, color number 67 (outside the Spider)

And more info here
 
That is a beautiful tank!

he uses a red T5. I've read a few European threads where many folks over there use the tube for Poccis/Damis/etc

This is very interesting, and as I and some others have been wondering for some time now what Europeans are doing different with their T5 setups, this is a good example.

Unfortunately we can't really compare this tank to a tank lit by strictly T5, but it is interesting none the less regarding the different Osram bulbs colors. This is actually the first I'd heard of anyone using them.
 
Hey everyone I came upon this thread after doing a search and wanted to comment on the bleaching problems I am seeing with some of my SPS and LPS as well as some softies.

I recently made the switch from VHO supplements to T5's about a month ago. Here is what I had before the T5 switch.


Before
======

VHO = (2) - URI/UVL - Super Actinic R's on and IceCap 660 ballast
total watts = 220

Metal Halides = (2) - XM - 2x250 watts, 10k running on ARO electronic ballast

Now
======

T5's = (2) - UVL/URI 54 watt Super Actinic bulbs overdriven on IceCap 660 ballast to 85 watts with IceCap SLR's

Metal Halides = (2) - XM - 2x250 watts, 10k running on ARO electronic ballast
==============================================

I am beginning to wonder the same thing if my 2, T5 blue bulbs are producing so much more PAR in conjunction with XM's that it has caused the bleaching. Basing that my new lighting scheme is the culprit I have since raised my lights from 7 inches to 10 inches off the top of the tank. I have an open canopy so not all of the light goes directly into the tank. I also use egg grate to cover the top so that my 6 line and fancy tail blenny can't go concrete surfing.

I also ran the T5's without the reflectors for about 3 weeks and had no issues with bleaching but I think that I still would have given some more time.

Thanks,
Bill



:smokin:
 
I've been watching this thread, but haven't posted much yet. I have seen the issue as well. I posted this in my local forum:




My approaching year old 58 is 100% T5's. As many have seen, my new 180 is feed by dual 400w MH's.

I still say T5's are a great technology, but having used them for a year I think we still have a TON to learn. I love the cost, the low heat, the color combinations, etc. My corals have grown well under the lights. I bought a 3 headed hammer from Zeppelin maybe a half year ago, and it split to 6 three or so months back, and is the process of splitting to 12.

Downside, my colors of my corals have gradually gone away (there are a number of threads in the forums here, THIS being one of the best ).

I'll give you an example...

I was lucky enough to recently see Porky's tank (has to be one of the craziest softie/LPS tanks I've ever seen, VERY sweet). I finagled another frogspawn torch combo off of him last night to compare/contrast as it grows under MH's instead of my T5's over the next year or so. When the new frag started opening, I realized how much T5's have changed the colors of the old one.

Going way back, here is the original picture I took back when I got the first frag:
01.14.2006-1.jpg


Although a different camera, different settings, different photoshop work... all in all it looks almost identical to the frag I got yesterday even though the new one is stretched out loosing a little of the dark colors:
08.14.2006-2.jpg


Now.... take a look at how the original frag is doing after 6 months under T5's:
08.14.2006-1.jpg


You can imediatly see the color has lightened significantly. Is it in bad shape? I'd say no way. As a matter of fact, it just got done with it's first major split. It eats well, and I have no reason to think it has issues.

Looking back on my old pictures, there are a few frags that have this same symptom.

Long story short, although there are exceptions out there, and although corals may grow GREAT under T5's, the technology still has a long ways to go because we're obviously missing SOMETHING the corals need (or giving them something they don't want). Is it color spectrum, too much intensity, too little intensity, who knows...

Now, don't think I'm 100% MH yet at this point either. I bleached some SPS frags that were DOWN on the SAND, while my MH's were 14" above the tank (i.e. 16" above water). I still have some to learn there.

I'm thinking about getting a new lighting setup for my 58g 3' wide tank now ;) I've had some SPS and such under MH, and have not yet noticed any color difference. I moved one of my "bleached" (ok, so it's not bleached per say, just some color loss) hammers to the new tank under the MH to see how quickly and how much of its color will return.

Think/reply as you will. I'm no MH fan or T5 hater. Just take it as food for thought.
 
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