My tank a SPS graveyard?
- Thread starter tc2007
- Start date
Does this include blue light as well? The white light does not come before 11am. Most of the hours are blue.
Temp: 75F
Controller: No. Don't dose.
Water change: about 15% per month.
Salt: Kent Marine.
Will post pics later.
SoloGarth
Active member
A controller does more than just dosing. Pictures will be helpful. I somewhat doubt it's light shock (at the low intensity you are running) but I would still have a 12hour or less total photoperiod.
RODI (10 month old). I would say I have gotten 500G or less out of it. Did not check PPM
Browndawg80
New member
Your temp should be higher than 75. The perfect number is debatable but I keep my tank between 78 and 79 via an apex jr.
markalot
...
No controller, don't dose, measuring PO4 with an API kit. Please don't take this as an attack, just trying to help. 
With SPS you need to up the game a bit. A snapshot of tests, while good, do not give a complete picture. SPS need stability, and stable Alk is probably the most important that we can measure, especially in a newer tank.
You really haven't provided enough information for help IMO.
With SPS you need to up the game a bit. A snapshot of tests, while good, do not give a complete picture. SPS need stability, and stable Alk is probably the most important that we can measure, especially in a newer tank.
You really haven't provided enough information for help IMO.
No controller, don't dose, measuring PO4 with an API kit. Please don't take this as an attack, just trying to help.
With SPS you need to up the game a bit. A snapshot of tests, while good, do not give a complete picture. SPS need stability, and stable Alk is probably the most important that we can measure, especially in a newer tank.
You really haven't provided enough information for help IMO.
NP. I understand diagnosing without enough information is near impossible. Specially when it comes to reef/SPS and so on.
SoloGarth
Active member
I think perhaps you should try some easier to keep corals first. Try a montipora cap, preferable orange/pink. Or pocillopora. They are a bit more forgiving and could set the stage to move to more difficult species. I would also think about buying a controller. While I'm sure people have had success keeping sps without I wouldn't want to do so. A controller makes things much easier. And when things go wrong you have a record. For instance do you know what sort of temp swings the tank experiences? How do you control the temp? How is temp being read? Is the flow varied or constant?
Also do you use a sump? Skimmer? Do you quarantine and proactively dip? To tell you more than just that your corals appear to be suffering from tissue necrosis is impossible without details of your system and parameter history.
Also do you use a sump? Skimmer? Do you quarantine and proactively dip? To tell you more than just that your corals appear to be suffering from tissue necrosis is impossible without details of your system and parameter history.
I will do more research on adding a controller.
Temp is maintained by a single 200W heater. The tank's in my living room and the temperature of the living room is around 77F normally. So I do not expect wild swings on the tank temp. I use a cheap digital thermometer to measure it. But willing to invest in a good thermometer.
Sump and skimmer yes, as I mentioned above the skimmer is offline for last 2-3 days but the damage started to happen before that. I think STN had started to occur before bleaching. The bleaching only happened when I moved them up near the surface but by then the tissue loss already had happened. The reason I say bleaching is because the Bonsai and the Frogskin had started to grow pale.
I do not quarantine Corals but I do dip in Coral Revive.
One of my Jebao RW-8 is now in "H" mode while other is in W1 mode.
whitetail187
New member
Just a shot in the dark have you treated any aiptaisa with calcium based product?
