My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges
- Thread starter Wally.B
- Start date
Wally.B
Active member
TEST RUN of Automatic Water Change Mode (Real Water Change in Sump)
So I set things up for a Real Water Change Test (Mixed up 10 Gallons of Salt).
Sump with Sensors / Two Maxi-Jets / Controller and TWO FIVE GALLON Buckets (To get a measurement of accuracy).
I will admit I was a bit worried things may not work, since I never tested the Sensors in Water, Pump Water Flow Speeds. Just the logic.
IT WORKED PERFECT FIRST TIME!!
I shot of video of that 3 Gallon Water change. It's uploading and I'll post as soon as ready.
Now I have confidence to install the Controller into the system (Permanently).
So I set things up for a Real Water Change Test (Mixed up 10 Gallons of Salt).
Sump with Sensors / Two Maxi-Jets / Controller and TWO FIVE GALLON Buckets (To get a measurement of accuracy).
I will admit I was a bit worried things may not work, since I never tested the Sensors in Water, Pump Water Flow Speeds. Just the logic.
IT WORKED PERFECT FIRST TIME!!
I shot of video of that 3 Gallon Water change. It's uploading and I'll post as soon as ready.
Now I have confidence to install the Controller into the system (Permanently).
Wally.B
Active member
Finally!! The YOU TUBE VIDEO (of Automatic Water Change RUN [Real Salt Water, In Aquarium SUMP ] ) UPLOADED
Ooops. No wonder Upload was taking forever (Thought it was my internet). BUt I thought I shot 640(30fps) video, but my camera was set to MediumRes 1280(60fps).
HERE IS THE YOU TUBE LINK of the Auto Water Change TEST RUN.
https://youtu.be/-QnmB1YZ520
[Pardon the Shaky Video. I had no help to Run Demo and Shoot at same time, plus I didn't edit out shaky parts to give you sense of START-to-FINISH real timing.]
The interesting part that I noticed that I didn't plan in the design, is the Trickle Water Filling of the Rufuge is Ideal.
It adds old water to the Refuge, and that mixes and pushed the new water slowly to the Return Section, and back to the Display Tank.
I added some Coral Snow and about an hour later the Refuge section cleared up, so that is the Cycle time.
(Minimum time to do a 2nd Water Change, do avoid removing new water).
I also tested ALK (in Water Change Section [ie Refuge]) , since the New Water had ALK of 9.x, while tank was 7.5.
(IT shocked me that the box of AF Reef Salt I just bought is Alk 9.x.) I need to triple check with a new batch.
Not happy. Need to find lower ALK Salt. Tropic Marin was Ideal 7.x
Today is MOTHERS DAY.
This may be a Perfect Mother's Day gift for my wife. She has no clue what I've been building for last 6 months. Doesn't care, but may!!
She always complains I spend too much time on the tanks.
She particularly notices the Water Changes, especially when I do in Kitchen Tank (Buckets, Spills, etc).
I figure this may be a IDEAL GIFT.
I'll show her a demo, and say "More time for her, since no more water changes for 1 tank".
However I do have Flowers and Chocolates as Plan B.
Ooops. No wonder Upload was taking forever (Thought it was my internet). BUt I thought I shot 640(30fps) video, but my camera was set to MediumRes 1280(60fps).
HERE IS THE YOU TUBE LINK of the Auto Water Change TEST RUN.
https://youtu.be/-QnmB1YZ520
[Pardon the Shaky Video. I had no help to Run Demo and Shoot at same time, plus I didn't edit out shaky parts to give you sense of START-to-FINISH real timing.]
The interesting part that I noticed that I didn't plan in the design, is the Trickle Water Filling of the Rufuge is Ideal.
It adds old water to the Refuge, and that mixes and pushed the new water slowly to the Return Section, and back to the Display Tank.
I added some Coral Snow and about an hour later the Refuge section cleared up, so that is the Cycle time.
(Minimum time to do a 2nd Water Change, do avoid removing new water).
I also tested ALK (in Water Change Section [ie Refuge]) , since the New Water had ALK of 9.x, while tank was 7.5.
(IT shocked me that the box of AF Reef Salt I just bought is Alk 9.x.) I need to triple check with a new batch.
Not happy. Need to find lower ALK Salt. Tropic Marin was Ideal 7.x
Today is MOTHERS DAY.
This may be a Perfect Mother's Day gift for my wife. She has no clue what I've been building for last 6 months. Doesn't care, but may!!
She always complains I spend too much time on the tanks.
She particularly notices the Water Changes, especially when I do in Kitchen Tank (Buckets, Spills, etc).
I figure this may be a IDEAL GIFT.
I'll show her a demo, and say "More time for her, since no more water changes for 1 tank".
However I do have Flowers and Chocolates as Plan B.
Wally.B
Active member
WATER CHANGE/DOSING STATION (SETUP - Draft Design)
So I played with what material I have hanging around.
This is the setup that I came up with after a few variations.
I did try setting up something similar directly over sump, but was cluttered and the danger of stuff falling into sump.
-> Open-Ended / Flexible for future changes and Easy Maintenance
-> Extra room for growth
-> Bins slide in and out for maintenance.
Next Step will be to complete the shelving, paint and run tubes, etc.
Running out to time, since next AutoWater Change should be this Friday.
THINKING ABOUT WHICH SALT I SHOULD MIX UP for the Reservoir.
-> AquaForest (Alk=9.5)
-> Tropic Marin (Alk 7.0, buffered up to 7.5 to match tank)
So I played with what material I have hanging around.
This is the setup that I came up with after a few variations.
I did try setting up something similar directly over sump, but was cluttered and the danger of stuff falling into sump.
-> Open-Ended / Flexible for future changes and Easy Maintenance
-> Extra room for growth
-> Bins slide in and out for maintenance.
Next Step will be to complete the shelving, paint and run tubes, etc.
Running out to time, since next AutoWater Change should be this Friday.
THINKING ABOUT WHICH SALT I SHOULD MIX UP for the Reservoir.
-> AquaForest (Alk=9.5)
-> Tropic Marin (Alk 7.0, buffered up to 7.5 to match tank)
Last edited:
Wally.B
Active member
Which SALT? (Considering Low SPS load, Weekly Water Changes, & Optional Dosing)
So I found this up to date 2017 Article on Current Reef Salt Parameters
http://saltwateraquariumblog.com/best-aquarium-salt-mix-review-popular-reef-salt-mix-options/
They list this table:
I would agree with the Instant Ocean, but I don't agree with Topic Maurin Pro ALK level (since my Bucket give me Alk=7.0). And Pro has always been low over the few buckets I have purchased.
The issue I am concerned about is that my SPS Coral Load is light.
Alk Still drops weekly, but not too much.
If I use a Salt with a High ALK, a 5% weekly water change won't do much in raising Alk, but it will increase over many water changes.
The other challenge if I use High Alk Salt, is there will be a weekly swing upward, and that will make dosing hard to stabilize as the tank matures.
I think once I have a larger coral load, then it won't be much of a factor.
SO MY DECISION IS to Go with the TOPIC MARIN PRO which I have a bit left.
Yes it is Darn $Pricey$, but this new start deserves one Bucket for a good solid start. And time for me to figure out a dosing regimen.
So I found this up to date 2017 Article on Current Reef Salt Parameters
http://saltwateraquariumblog.com/best-aquarium-salt-mix-review-popular-reef-salt-mix-options/
They list this table:
I would agree with the Instant Ocean, but I don't agree with Topic Maurin Pro ALK level (since my Bucket give me Alk=7.0). And Pro has always been low over the few buckets I have purchased.
The issue I am concerned about is that my SPS Coral Load is light.
Alk Still drops weekly, but not too much.
If I use a Salt with a High ALK, a 5% weekly water change won't do much in raising Alk, but it will increase over many water changes.
The other challenge if I use High Alk Salt, is there will be a weekly swing upward, and that will make dosing hard to stabilize as the tank matures.
I think once I have a larger coral load, then it won't be much of a factor.
SO MY DECISION IS to Go with the TOPIC MARIN PRO which I have a bit left.
Yes it is Darn $Pricey$, but this new start deserves one Bucket for a good solid start. And time for me to figure out a dosing regimen.
Wally.B
Active member
Found my PERFECT SALT (A mix)
Yes, this may be chasing numbers that won't really matter, but I want to embark on the New Tank Setup Journey with minimal disruption.
I decided to test my Salts, but this time with attention to accuracy.
I calibrated my Reflectometer, heated water to 77 Degrees.
Turns out the AquaForest Reef Salt is not as high as I thought.
It was the Reef Crystals which was around 11.
I got an idea. Instead of buffering up Tropic Marin with Baking Soda. Why not use the higher Alk Salt to do it, by combining salts.
After my tests of Individual Salts, I realized (by calculation average) that a 50/50 Mix of AquaForest RS and Tropic Marin Pro would get me very close to an Alk=7.5.
So I mixed up very well a small bucket of each (to exactly a Salinty of 1.025) and mixed the two accurately at 50% each Salt Mix.
I tested very accurately, with the greatest attention I've ever done. (ie Rinsing vials, perfect drops, no bubbles, etc). Was only satisfied when two tests came back very close.
Here is the method and the results.
I could use slightly less AquaForest and be exactly at ALK=7.5, but is just not worth the effort.
This will save me some money and give me a good Salt with all the micro/macro elements covered.
Yes, this may be chasing numbers that won't really matter, but I want to embark on the New Tank Setup Journey with minimal disruption.
I decided to test my Salts, but this time with attention to accuracy.
I calibrated my Reflectometer, heated water to 77 Degrees.
Turns out the AquaForest Reef Salt is not as high as I thought.
It was the Reef Crystals which was around 11.
I got an idea. Instead of buffering up Tropic Marin with Baking Soda. Why not use the higher Alk Salt to do it, by combining salts.
After my tests of Individual Salts, I realized (by calculation average) that a 50/50 Mix of AquaForest RS and Tropic Marin Pro would get me very close to an Alk=7.5.
So I mixed up very well a small bucket of each (to exactly a Salinty of 1.025) and mixed the two accurately at 50% each Salt Mix.
I tested very accurately, with the greatest attention I've ever done. (ie Rinsing vials, perfect drops, no bubbles, etc). Was only satisfied when two tests came back very close.
Here is the method and the results.
I could use slightly less AquaForest and be exactly at ALK=7.5, but is just not worth the effort.
This will save me some money and give me a good Salt with all the micro/macro elements covered.
Wally.B
Active member
AUTO-Station Build (Moving Along)
So for the Short-Term, I not going Large-Bin Reservoir as part of the AutoStation Area.
Takes up too much space near the sump and work table.
Two 15 Gallon Bins will be fine and last me a month.
-> I will add a Water level sensor to ensure enough water for full Water Change.
-----> [Otherwise a partial fill will drop sump levels, and screw up salinity when Fresh Water Top up kicks in]
-> I will also add a Water sensor to Dump Bin
-----> [To prevent a overfill spill]
The Larger 50 GAL Reservoir of Pre-Mix Salt Water will be elsewhere in the basement, and I can just top up the Change-Station Bin.
Still much, Much easier then the past.
So for the Short-Term, I not going Large-Bin Reservoir as part of the AutoStation Area.
Takes up too much space near the sump and work table.
Two 15 Gallon Bins will be fine and last me a month.
-> I will add a Water level sensor to ensure enough water for full Water Change.
-----> [Otherwise a partial fill will drop sump levels, and screw up salinity when Fresh Water Top up kicks in]
-> I will also add a Water sensor to Dump Bin
-----> [To prevent a overfill spill]
The Larger 50 GAL Reservoir of Pre-Mix Salt Water will be elsewhere in the basement, and I can just top up the Change-Station Bin.
Still much, Much easier then the past.
Wally.B
Active member
Water Change Section (Pumbing Complete)
Pumping inside sump is done. Good enough for now.
I used those Clips you get with MaxiJet Pump FOR Clamping HOSE RUNS.
I have a bunch of them since I never used that kind of Maxi-Jet configuration.
They hold well, and I tie wrapped Sensor wiring to them.
Plus the clips are easy remove for future maintenance.
Pumping inside sump is done. Good enough for now.
I used those Clips you get with MaxiJet Pump FOR Clamping HOSE RUNS.
I have a bunch of them since I never used that kind of Maxi-Jet configuration.
They hold well, and I tie wrapped Sensor wiring to them.
Plus the clips are easy remove for future maintenance.
Wally.B
Active member
Auto-Station Ready for Tonights Friday Night Water Change (Painted and Setup)
The Auto-Station is Setup for AutoWater Changes.
I decided on GREY Shelving Paint with Blue Trim. Came out pretty good.
-> I added a cork board that was in my never used in my workshop.
-> The Google Nexus 2012 Tablet is kids hand me down. Too slow for gaming but good enough to view Apex and Simple Web.
-> Got a New Blue Bin since I couldn't stand the Pink one.
-> The Portal 3D sticker I got for $2 from Alixepress ages ago. Came in handy.
I'm really happy I didn't go with the Large 50 Gallon Reservioir.
I like the space/layout with the Auto-Station setup.
Now I run a few weeks of water changes and see how Water Parameter do.
Then I can decide what/how I will dose for any needed adjustments.
Next I run Doser tubing.
Then I can start drugging my Corals with some Magic Potion Mixes.
I have plenty of ingredients I purchase over the years.
By the way, the Frags and Corals are doing Spectacular.
Like never before.
I guess the Practice Water Change Runs prove that frequent and regular water changes work.
I am already thinking to expand this Changer for my other tank.
Just need to figure out a way for similar Containers.
Wally
The Auto-Station is Setup for AutoWater Changes.
I decided on GREY Shelving Paint with Blue Trim. Came out pretty good.
-> I added a cork board that was in my never used in my workshop.
-> The Google Nexus 2012 Tablet is kids hand me down. Too slow for gaming but good enough to view Apex and Simple Web.
-> Got a New Blue Bin since I couldn't stand the Pink one.
-> The Portal 3D sticker I got for $2 from Alixepress ages ago. Came in handy.
I'm really happy I didn't go with the Large 50 Gallon Reservioir.
I like the space/layout with the Auto-Station setup.
Now I run a few weeks of water changes and see how Water Parameter do.
Then I can decide what/how I will dose for any needed adjustments.
Next I run Doser tubing.
Then I can start drugging my Corals with some Magic Potion Mixes.
I have plenty of ingredients I purchase over the years.
By the way, the Frags and Corals are doing Spectacular.
Like never before.
I guess the Practice Water Change Runs prove that frequent and regular water changes work.
I am already thinking to expand this Changer for my other tank.
Just need to figure out a way for similar Containers.
Wally
Wally.B
Active member
Thanks. Appreciate the positive Comment.
I need it. Been pulling out my hair last 24 hours.
I was planning to do a run with the Final Install, but I ran into a technical glitch.
I have been working all day to resolve and am very close.
Wally.B
Active member
DOSER (Auto Water Changer) COMPLETED & INSTALLED With (Lighting Feature)
So the Doser is Finally Installed (PERMANENTLY) and Couple of Water changes done. Everything is perfect.
However I struggled many hours (2 days) to fix a misplaced wired. (I had trouble falling a sleep thinking things thru)
When Installing the Final Feature (Mode Lighting) I screwed up one wire and nothing was working.
As you can see it wasn't that easy (Lots of wire connections underneath), but I finally found the mistake.
The Lighting Feature is a 3 Color LED installed in the Acrylic Base.
It show status, running mode, plus Future reminder feature.
(I first Had a SImple LED on top, but a small hole Driller into base is more noticeable and Quite Awesome looking)
For now the Water Changer will be Manual.
(ONE BUTTON ACTIVATE)
-> PUSH Button [ Apex Turns off WC-Reservoir Pump]
-> Apex Sends Signal to Doser(+) Controller for Go Ahead.
-> Water Change is done and Apex Turn Reservoir Pump back on.
I need to learn how it works:
-> Keep New Water Container FULL / (Empty Dump Container) [Will Add Sensors in the Future to Failsafe)
-> Turn on New Water heater, and Watch for Tank Temp Match (manual)
-> And also do Water Parameters to learn how much Dosing will be required with Regular Weekly Water Changes.
WHATS REALLY weird, is I feel kind of Lost No doing Manual Bucket Water changes.
I'll get used to it
So now I move to DOSING (Learn and Setup).
Figure out new routine with Easy Weekly Water changes, and how tank Water Parameter need adjustment (if any).
Maybe I’ll just need Coral Food and Coloration Additives.
(Who knows. Routine/Weekly Water Changes may be good enough for a long while till Corals get bigger. But at least I’ll be ready when that day comes).
And I did make a 3 Camera View Movie that I'm editing showing a Installed Run with (Lighting).
As Soon I edit the movie, I'll post on YouTube.
So the Doser is Finally Installed (PERMANENTLY) and Couple of Water changes done. Everything is perfect.
However I struggled many hours (2 days) to fix a misplaced wired. (I had trouble falling a sleep thinking things thru)
When Installing the Final Feature (Mode Lighting) I screwed up one wire and nothing was working.
As you can see it wasn't that easy (Lots of wire connections underneath), but I finally found the mistake.
The Lighting Feature is a 3 Color LED installed in the Acrylic Base.
It show status, running mode, plus Future reminder feature.
(I first Had a SImple LED on top, but a small hole Driller into base is more noticeable and Quite Awesome looking)
For now the Water Changer will be Manual.
(ONE BUTTON ACTIVATE)
-> PUSH Button [ Apex Turns off WC-Reservoir Pump]
-> Apex Sends Signal to Doser(+) Controller for Go Ahead.
-> Water Change is done and Apex Turn Reservoir Pump back on.
I need to learn how it works:
-> Keep New Water Container FULL / (Empty Dump Container) [Will Add Sensors in the Future to Failsafe)
-> Turn on New Water heater, and Watch for Tank Temp Match (manual)
-> And also do Water Parameters to learn how much Dosing will be required with Regular Weekly Water Changes.
WHATS REALLY weird, is I feel kind of Lost No doing Manual Bucket Water changes.
I'll get used to it
So now I move to DOSING (Learn and Setup).
Figure out new routine with Easy Weekly Water changes, and how tank Water Parameter need adjustment (if any).
Maybe I’ll just need Coral Food and Coloration Additives.
(Who knows. Routine/Weekly Water Changes may be good enough for a long while till Corals get bigger. But at least I’ll be ready when that day comes).
And I did make a 3 Camera View Movie that I'm editing showing a Installed Run with (Lighting).
As Soon I edit the movie, I'll post on YouTube.
Last edited:
Wally.B
Active member
DOSING tubing Installed (Dosing needed sooner then thought)
I wasn't going to rush with Dosing Setup but my Alk/Calc is dropping and I had to manually top up.
So for now I'll at least start the Aquaforest Component 1,2,3.
(The stuff is really weak. When I had corals, I had to do 150ml a day. Compared to A/B which only needed 30ml)
I'll start with 20ml each and see how water tests go.
I may improve things later but I installed the tubing this way.
Not the best clean cuts but does the job.
I wasn't going to rush with Dosing Setup but my Alk/Calc is dropping and I had to manually top up.
So for now I'll at least start the Aquaforest Component 1,2,3.
(The stuff is really weak. When I had corals, I had to do 150ml a day. Compared to A/B which only needed 30ml)
I'll start with 20ml each and see how water tests go.
I may improve things later but I installed the tubing this way.
Not the best clean cuts but does the job.
Wally.B
Active member
DOSING Controller (Dosing Head Configuration)
Here is how the Controller is configured.
I decided not to make it tedious thru the LCD/Push Buttons.
Plus the code would be complex to write for Interface, etc.
Future features will be easier to add this way.
The Dosing configuration is within the Aurdino Code.
To make a dosing change, I edit the config and upload into Ardiuno from PC.
Pretty simple as shown below (Example of 1 Dosing Head)
Once the config is uploaded, the Doser Scheduler uses this to run things.
The scheduler uses Queuing Logic:
--> You can Set Dose Head (#01,#02,#03) to all dose as 12:15PM
--> It will queue up each pump at 12:15
--> Two Pumps will never run at same time
--> When Pump one is finished, the Next Pump Starts
Now I run on Water for a week, and it all goes well, I switch to Real Chemicals.
Here is how the Controller is configured.
I decided not to make it tedious thru the LCD/Push Buttons.
Plus the code would be complex to write for Interface, etc.
Future features will be easier to add this way.
The Dosing configuration is within the Aurdino Code.
To make a dosing change, I edit the config and upload into Ardiuno from PC.
Pretty simple as shown below (Example of 1 Dosing Head)
Once the config is uploaded, the Doser Scheduler uses this to run things.
The scheduler uses Queuing Logic:
--> You can Set Dose Head (#01,#02,#03) to all dose as 12:15PM
--> It will queue up each pump at 12:15
--> Two Pumps will never run at same time
--> When Pump one is finished, the Next Pump Starts
Now I run on Water for a week, and it all goes well, I switch to Real Chemicals.
Last edited:
Wally.B
Active member
TANK Water Parameters
Corals should be not complaining. Water Parameter are very close to ideal.
All Chem Test are Salifert, with exception of Phosphate which is Hanna (Phosphorous Kit)
Salinty (1.025)
ALK (7.5)
CALC (430)
MAG (1440)
K (400)
PO4 (0.13)
NO3 (1.0)
TEMP (78 Stable)
PH (8.0 - 8.2)
I had to top up Alk, and K, but otherwise everything was as shown.
Corals should be not complaining. Water Parameter are very close to ideal.
All Chem Test are Salifert, with exception of Phosphate which is Hanna (Phosphorous Kit)
Salinty (1.025)
ALK (7.5)
CALC (430)
MAG (1440)
K (400)
PO4 (0.13)
NO3 (1.0)
TEMP (78 Stable)
PH (8.0 - 8.2)
I had to top up Alk, and K, but otherwise everything was as shown.
reefmutt
Active member
Nice, Wally!
I think you'll get used to the no bucket wcs pretty darn quick.
Doesn't AF have dry versions of their components? Not sure.. or maybe they have industrial strength?
I love that one touch button. It's like the simple button for that insurance (I think) company advertising on tv.
Just love the leds as well. Nice touch.
I think you'll get used to the no bucket wcs pretty darn quick.
Doesn't AF have dry versions of their components? Not sure.. or maybe they have industrial strength?
I love that one touch button. It's like the simple button for that insurance (I think) company advertising on tv.
Just love the leds as well. Nice touch.
Wally.B
Active member
What is a bucket??
Yes they do, call their Component Strong, plus they have Target Elements too.
But for now I just want to use up my Component1,2,3.
I am going to need some help in this next phase of this Tank Restart.
-> I have Nutrient Export covered (Algae Scrubber)
-> I have Water Changes covered.
-> I have future Dosing Covered (TBD on foods)
-> I certainly have Circulation Covered (running medium for now)
The part that I've always wondered about my tank is Lighting.
I have a switchable MH Ballast (150W,175W,250W,HQI) running two Pheonix (250W) 14000K bulbs. Plus the two Blue Plus T5's and LED (18 LED's, running low).
I was running 150W, and today moved up to 175W with coral mounting.
I slightly raised the lights to 13" to spread things out and compensate for 25W more power per bulb.
So I am totally confused if I have too much lighting in this 65 Gallon Tank, or do I have not enough.
I rented a Par Meter a while ago, and if I put my MH bulbs at 250W, with the two T5 my par readings were:
-> 460 Just below water Surface
-> 320 at top of Rocks
-> 120 at Bottom of tank
I didn't have the Power LED, so I have to be careful with it.
I bleached all my corals overnight with that LED in QT.
WHAT DO I LOOK FOR IN "SPS" to see if they are getting ENOUGH light?
-> White Tips?
-> Browning or Color Fading (not enough light), beside nutrients.
Last edited:
Wally.B
Active member
THE NEW TANK (Corals Mounted)
So I mounted the corals and this is the Baseline for this New Tank Restart.
TANK FRONT
TANK BACK
Yes there is a back side, since I've centered the rocks to clean glass all around.
On back side are Remnants of Corals that were encrusted on rocks from the past.
This tank has about 14 Species of SPS at this pont.
Before anyone mentions (I need more fish).
Today I added a Blue Green Chromis that I removed from Kitchen Tank. He was being beaten up by the other 5 Chromis's (So I nursed him back to heath in QT over last few weeks).
THE JOURNEY BEGINS!!
Wally.
So I mounted the corals and this is the Baseline for this New Tank Restart.
TANK FRONT
TANK BACK
Yes there is a back side, since I've centered the rocks to clean glass all around.
On back side are Remnants of Corals that were encrusted on rocks from the past.
This tank has about 14 Species of SPS at this pont.
Before anyone mentions (I need more fish).
Today I added a Blue Green Chromis that I removed from Kitchen Tank. He was being beaten up by the other 5 Chromis's (So I nursed him back to heath in QT over last few weeks).
THE JOURNEY BEGINS!!
Wally.
Wally.B
Active member
NEED OPINION on PROPER FEEDING (How much, and how to Feed?)
I read a few places that folks that fed their fish wrong, and had problems. (ie Cyano, Algae, etc)
I don't know how much to feed since fish are always hungry.
The other thing is my fish have learned to chase food.
If I stop the water and feed thru feeder, they stared dazed, waiting for the food to run away.
I have a feeling that Feeding under High Circulation scatters the food.
And that leads to rot.
I no longer want a large CUC since they keep dying or getting too big (crabs).
I feed flakes twice a day, and Rinsed Frozen Brine at night.
(( WHAT IS weird, and baffling is in my 90 Gallon Kitchen Tank, I feed twice as much and no issue. I think they KEY is low Lighting in that Tank, vs High for this SPS tank ))
I DO HAVE A PROGRAMMED APEX BUTTON that will stop all circulation except return for X-Minutes.
I guess I should use it and let fish learn to come to feeder and pick out the food (instead of the fun chase).
Correct?
I read a few places that folks that fed their fish wrong, and had problems. (ie Cyano, Algae, etc)
I don't know how much to feed since fish are always hungry.
The other thing is my fish have learned to chase food.
If I stop the water and feed thru feeder, they stared dazed, waiting for the food to run away.
I have a feeling that Feeding under High Circulation scatters the food.
And that leads to rot.
I no longer want a large CUC since they keep dying or getting too big (crabs).
I feed flakes twice a day, and Rinsed Frozen Brine at night.
(( WHAT IS weird, and baffling is in my 90 Gallon Kitchen Tank, I feed twice as much and no issue. I think they KEY is low Lighting in that Tank, vs High for this SPS tank ))
I DO HAVE A PROGRAMMED APEX BUTTON that will stop all circulation except return for X-Minutes.
I guess I should use it and let fish learn to come to feeder and pick out the food (instead of the fun chase).
Correct?
Last edited:
Similar threads
