NanoGurl's 75g Reef Thread

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Sorwee to make you type it again :P I'm going to go look now... after I am done reading your article.. it's good so far!

Thanks! =)
 
I agree with Melev (who wouldn't?)

I'd go with a bigger pump than a Mag 5.5

Depending on whom you talk to, you'll want your sump to turnover between 3 - 15x per hour of your system volume. I know Melev likes between 3-5, I'm up around 14x on mine. I like the added flow in the tank, my chaeto is always tumbling, and I've found no ill effects from the extra flow. You just need to have it dialed back so it doesn't out flow your overflow, if that makes sense.

As far as connecting the Mag drive to PVC, Home Depot or Lowes sells fittings that will adapt the 3/4" NPT thread to whatever size pipe you want. Mag drive manuals state that you want at least 2x the size of the outlet for your plumbing. In your case, 1.5" inner diameter.

For picking out the size of your pump you have two options. You can buy a pump that will outflow your overflow, and simply dial it back/divert it, or get a smaller one so that your overflow will always outflow your pump. Either way, we first need to find out how much your overflow will take, most of which is determined by the size of drain lines that are on the tank.
 
No problem. If I do it enough, I'll get motivated to do it one LAST time.
shakeit.gif
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11581177#post11581177 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Snowboarda42
I agree with Melev (who wouldn't?)

I'd go with a bigger pump than a Mag 5.5

Depending on whom you talk to, you'll want your sump to turnover between 3 - 15x per hour of your system volume. I know Melev likes between 3-5, I'm up around 14x on mine. I like the added flow in the tank, my chaeto is always tumbling, and I've found no ill effects from the extra flow. You just need to have it dialed back so it doesn't out flow your overflow, if that makes sense.

As far as connecting the Mag drive to PVC, Home Depot or Lowes sells fittings that will adapt the 3/4" NPT thread to whatever size pipe you want. Mag drive manuals state that you want at least 2x the size of the outlet for your plumbing. In your case, 1.5" inner diameter.

For picking out the size of your pump you have two options. You can buy a pump that will outflow your overflow, and simply dial it back/divert it, or get a smaller one so that your overflow will always outflow your pump. Either way, we first need to find out how much your overflow will take, most of which is determined by the size of drain lines that are on the tank.

Okay cool... I will try to find out the size. I would rather have a pump that is slower then my overflows... I don't want to run a ton of flow through the sump. I had issues with that on my 75.

Thanks!
 
Digital Monitors

Okay, so what does everyone think of these digital monitors instead of test kit solutions? I love the idea of them, but always nervous that the probes won't be right.

Here is a new nitrate monitor:
Nitrate Monitor


Here is the pH monitor:
pH Monitor

They are really expensive, but at the rate I go through nitrate test kits it would pay quickly lol.
 
I've heard monitors are a PITA.. especially the calcium one. Not sure about the others but people say its a pain calibrating them so im staying away from them for now..
 
Yea I read that too about the Ca but I am really only interested in the pH and nitrate one. the salinity one is kinda cool, but I don't really have any need of that.
 
A refractometer is much more accurate from what ive read.. i have never used these pinpoint monitors so hopefully someone whose had them can chime in. It would definitely suck spending that $$ on something that is constantly inaccurate and needs to be re calibrated.
 
Flow for 120

So I already have two NanoStream 6045s and was thinking about adding the Tunze Turbelle Stream Pump 6060. If I do this, it would give me 33x turnover rate. That is about what I have now with my 75.

I am not going to keep a large amount of SPS unless I can really keep my nitrates down.. so what do you guys think?

Still need all that flow? I am thinking yes due to BB tank and tangs.
 
Also.. just found this:

"I'm re-plumbing my 120 Tech right now, and the overflow holes will accept either 1" or 3/4 " bulkheads. I'm re-plumbing because I am hard-plumbing my new skimmer."
 
Cripes, this thread moves quickly!!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11580934#post11580934 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoGurl
Yea, I saw it would be $600 for the Bubble Master for the size I would want. I don't know if it's worth another $130 upgrade from the ER?

Are you comparing the RC or RS models of the ER. The recirculating model (RC) is considerably more expensive than the BubbleMaster.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11581113#post11581113 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoGurl
Question about the ER 250

Can you direct feed the skimmer from the overflow? Would this be a good idea?

I'd thought you were looking at the RS250, which is not the recirculating model, so no, you can't direct feed the skimmer.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11581145#post11581145 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoGurl
I'm going with a 120g =)

Not sure what the overflow gph is on that one... it's the Oceanic 120 Tech.

Is there a good return pump that I could use pvc to connect back to the tank instead of the clear flexible tubing? I want something more secure, but no idea how to connect it to the return bulkhead.

Thanks for the info!!

Are there 2 overflows or 1? My 150 has 2 overflows, and each one can handle ~600 gph, but I only use a mag 9 dialed back for the return, which gives me about 450-500 gph. These you can hook up with PVC. I'll try to find a picture.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11581173#post11581173 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
It would be better to use 1.5" even though it isn't for a long run (of plumbing). Mag pumps work better when you double the thread size. A mag 9.5 or 12 has 3/4" threads, so doubling it would be 1.5" plumbing.

This is precisely how I have mine set up at the pump, though I think Marc told me to do it when I was figuring out my plumbing! Marc's everywhere!! Anyways, since I have the 2 overflows, I step it up to 1.5" PVC at the pump, then split it into two 1" vinyl tubing lines on hose barbs. It's worked well for me. I'll try to find some pictures.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11581403#post11581403 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoGurl
Also.. just found this:

"I'm re-plumbing my 120 Tech right now, and the overflow holes will accept either 1" or 3/4 " bulkheads. I'm re-plumbing because I am hard-plumbing my new skimmer."

Again, if it's anything like mine, it will not fit the sch. 80 1" bulkheads (the heavy duty ones), but standard 1" plumbing is fine.
 
Hi!

Yes, the RS250... not the recirculating ones.

It has 2 drains and 2 returns.. but it's an Oceanic Tech.. different from the regular AGA with 2 drains.

I would like to not use the tubing if at all possible. I am not sure though I don't have the kit yet. Hopefully soon!

Thanks!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11581598#post11581598 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoGurl
Hi!

Yes, the RS250... not the recirculating ones.

It has 2 drains and 2 returns.. but it's an Oceanic Tech.. different from the regular AGA with 2 drains.

I would like to not use the tubing if at all possible. I am not sure though I don't have the kit yet. Hopefully soon!

Thanks!

You can easily avoid using tubing, but just be precise with the pvc. I liked the tubing because it can help eliminate any vibration noise from the pump, but I don't know if that's really that big of a problem.

And I just looked up the tech series at oceanic's website (I'm glad they updated it, last time I was there they had squat for info). Definitely a little different, and an awesome looking setup.
 
SWC dont need to prove themselves really they stole their design from bubble king and ATI, and the pump is the same as ATI , and tunze skimmers.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11581598#post11581598 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoGurl
Hi!

Yes, the RS250... not the recirculating ones.

It has 2 drains and 2 returns.. but it's an Oceanic Tech.. different from the regular AGA with 2 drains.

I would like to not use the tubing if at all possible. I am not sure though I don't have the kit yet. Hopefully soon!

Thanks!

Woops sorry NG, I thought you were going after the recirc. model (RC 250) rather than the RS 250. In which case, ignore my comment about Teeing the drain line to feed the skimmer. You simply won't have to now, just put it in your sump in the area of your drain and leave it to work. Definitely mesh mod it though.

As for the Nitrate monitors, I think I remember reading that its designed for freshwater and it won't be as accurate as you need. Same with the Ca. I can't find the article though. Personally, just stick with a regular test kit.

When it comes to plumbing, just use spa flex like Melev suggested. Having less sharp of bends will help keep your flow up from the return pump, and its much better than the clear plastic stuff that you seem to want to stay away from.

If the Oceanic has the option of 3/4" or 1" drains, go for the 1". Two of those should be more than enough to outflow your pump. And bigger than a Mag 12 and you'll want to adapt the 1" into 1.5" or bigger as soon as it comes out of the bulkhead.




Whats with the 3AM posts by the way? Don't you sleep?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11581185#post11581185 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoGurl
Okay cool... I will try to find out the size. I would rather have a pump that is slower then my overflows... I don't want to run a ton of flow through the sump. I had issues with that on my 75.

Thanks!

I had the same problem with the sump on my 65 its tiny so it doesnt do well with too much flow. I was able to keep it under control with a waste gate. Basically you put a T on your return that goes right back into the return section of the sump. I put a ball valve on the waste gate and now I can dial back the flow rate of my pump to whatever works best. It has the added benefit of mixing up whatever suplement I am adding to the tank (I guestimate about 50% of the water is going back to the return section) before it goes into the display.
 
Nitrate monitor - no. pH monitor - yes. That money is the difference between buying a 120g and a 180g. :lol:

I love their pH monitor and use it all the time. It is probably the most useful tool for quick verifications of water quality in my reef, the nano, the q-tank and a new barrel of mixed saltwater. Definitely a good purchase. Use it with a 9v battery, not with a dc power cord.

The Tunze 6060 is a nice pump. Rather large compared to the Nano Streams, and it simply has a plug on the end. You have no control over how it works, other than on and off. I use one to mix saltwater. ;) If you like controllability, then I would consider getting a 6100 with a controller (7094 or 7095). That way it can ramp up and down every few seconds to the high and low setpoint you've chosen. I had two 6100s in my tank for the last few years, which were sold a few months ago still working beautifully.
 
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