Need 180 advice-Ben&bobbi's 180 upgrade build

[flfirefighter13]

Ive never had eheim but like the mags I have, Ive got a 9.5, a 12 anda 18 on various tanks. check www.melevsreef.com for a way to do a close loop without drilling the tank if you really want a close loop, nothing hard just some extra plumbing work. Happy new year to you as well!!!!!!

 

[ben&bobbi]

ok, worked out a deal for a dart, so that's the direction i am heading. This will be my return pump from the sump. I might back off to 4 locline returns, but i am trying to get the engineers at work to help me out! if I still need more, i will add my Seio 820's and if they aren't enough, i will upgrade later. I know i didn't want powerheads, but i also want to keep some of my money from FPL!

Got looking at the overflows. The pipe used is 1.25", but they neck down through the bulkhead. Is this normal? The holes are @1.5" drain and @1.25" return (one each in each corner). The guy said with the blueline, everything flowed perfect, so maybe it's alright.

i need to order some other plumbing supplies, so i might as well fix it all if needed.

 

[Boostable]

I run a Dart on my 220 alone with no power heads and it flow MORE then enough. I keep it turned down a tad most of the time. I think you will be very happy with it.

 

[flfirefighter13]

I think thats a pretty standard bulkhead size, mine are 1" drain which I adapt to 1.25 on top and bottom of the bulkhead and the return line lets me run 3/4 which I had been useing, but will most likely bump up as well on my next tank, trial and error to figure it all out for me

 

[ben&bobbi]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8891265#post8891265 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Boostable
I run a Dart on my 220 alone with no power heads and it flow MORE then enough. I keep it turned down a tad most of the time. I think you will be very happy with it.

any chance of getting a couple pics of your plumbing?
Ben

 

[Boostable]

Sure... I can do you one better then that... Here is a drawing..

Need more infor or pics, just let me know..

Jack

 

[ben&bobbi]

thanks Jack!
i seen a couple things i didn't think of. I was planning to set the sump up the same way. except my skimmer is a G3, but i will do the feed mod which will tee off the return, and just dump the main returns into the same area.

how is the plumbing between the pump and return area? i was going to plan on a ball valve between pump and return of sump. is there a reason you didn't?

what about the returns in the tank?

is there no need for a bubble trap at the refug because of the low flow? This also allows for a deeper refug too right?

 

[Boostable]

Actually it is not plumbed directly into the skimmer. Both the overflows go into a corner crash box in the back of the sump, I have a Euro RS8 that sits in that area in front of the crash box, just looks a little weird in the drawing. I have picsutures of the sump when I built it to give you an idea, if you need them.

I have ball valve on both the inlet and outlets on both sides, thats about the only thing not show in the drawing, and I also ommited the drain section.

I have true unions on both sides of the pump and a ball vale on the outlet side of the pump, you never want to regulate the inlet side.

And you are correct, the low flow (regulate by the ball valve) of the fuge does not require an additional baffle.. but one could always be added if you where running some major flow. Deeper is always good..

One other thing to note. The return (pressure side) of the pump to the tank is all glued of course, however all the overflow to sump plumbing "AFTER" the ball valves are all pressure fitted (no glue) so I can remove at anytime to get the sump out or anything else I want to do..

I went from a 75 to my 220, so I know what your going through..

Hope that helps,

Jack

 

[ben&bobbi]

Great information - very helpful!
Any pics would be helpful, but i pretty much understand it and plan to copy most!

your crash box is just a corner box filled with rubble right? kinda like melevs sump (g i think) design.

I wasn't thinking of regulating the inlet, just thinking about removing the pump without having to drain the sump at all.

i was also thinking of having a connection for water changes, but not sure what would work. the drains/return lines will just empty the overflows. Also don't think there will be enough water in the return area of the sump.

how are the returns plumbed on top of the tank?

 

[Boostable]

Yes you are correct, exactly like the G model.

On top the returns are T'd into twho lockline going out in oppisite directions.

Most of the pics for the sump itself can be found here..

http://www.wilburnfamily.us/album20?&page=5

One other note, is that I used 2 1/2 flex hose from the sump to the pump to cut down on vibration transfer...

Jack

 

[wardworld]

And let me add, that if the plumbing has anything to do w/ it, Jack's the man...he's got one sweet tank there (and the largest anemone I've ever seen

 

[Boostable]

LOL Thanks Daryl...

 

[lifesworksataol]

ill buy the tank if you are going to sell it

 

[ben&bobbi]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8899560#post8899560 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lifesworksataol
ill buy the tank if you are going to sell it

you want the 55 back!? it's already under the stand for fit checks! we are going to keep the 180!

 

[lifesworksataol]

no i mean i want to buy the big tank :-D - i hope that 55 is working out great for you - iam still trying to find one that i could use for my buddy as a display tank for cheap

 

[waldomas]

Is this going to mainly be a SPS tank? If so, I would aim for 10000 gph in the main display. I have about 230 lbs or so of fiji premium, and until I uped my flow, I had problems with STN. I now have two vor-techs (full blast at opposite ends) and a corolife 1070 on a closed loop with a 1" sea swirl located in the middle of the back. Love that set up. It changes the flow direction in the display about every minute.
BTW, I have two mogul based 250 watt halides in lumen max 2 reflectors. I also have 400 watts of PC (2 x 96 actinics / 2 x 96 10K). I would probably go with T5 instead of the PC if I did it over. The center of the tank is a little darker than the ends. This is where I keep most of my LPS and montis. Overall, I am happy.

 

[waldomas]

BTW, I have a 55 agl sump and a 55 gal fuge. It is about a 270 gal system that is lightly stocked with fish, so far! LOL. I don't use a chiller, but do have a couple of fans on my controller (RK2). One across the top and one on the sump. The setup is in the basement and the sump is directly on the concrete floor, so my temp stays around 78-79 deg. in the winter and 80-81 in the summer.
I am actually contemplating adding anothe CL with another SS.
I think I may need some more flow! No spillovers yet but she's a flowin!

 

[ben&bobbi]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8893059#post8893059 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Boostable
Sure... I can do you one better then that... Here is a drawing..

Need more infor or pics, just let me know..

Jack

sent you another question!

i should be posting my plumbing layout tonight for everyones input! here's a preview....

nope, I'll wait till i move the pump up!

 

[ben&bobbi]

here is the start to our 180g tank!

here is the start to our 180g tank!

here's the tank crammed into the kitchen / diningroom area. This is right after we unloaded it and about killed myself carrying the thing. Gave the neighbor a 12 pack for helping - i got off cheap!

 

[Boostable]

Fun is just begining..