Need Electrical Help.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8246309#post8246309 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bryanth73
why would a 30 hurt more than a 15 both are 120 volt???? the size of the breaker has nothing to do with the "shock condition" the breaker does not have anything to do with how much amperage or voltage a circut puts out only that it will trip off when the load on the circut reaches the breakers rating

Getting shocked by either is stupid, and I would not suggest it to anyone. I also did not say anything about the breaker. A 30 amp circuit should have a larger wire size. The larger wire has the potential to move much more current then the smaller wire. This results in a larger draw in the case of a short. It is the same as saying, would you rather get shot by 1/2" water stream at 100 psi or a 5" water line at 100 psi. The 1/2" is going to hurt like all heck, the 5" of going to blow you accross the room.
how do you think a house can be either 100 or 200 amp service without needing all new appliances? the reason for max circut sizes is that you can overheat a wire or circut in an appliance without blowing the breaker causing damage or a fire, it has nothing to do with how much power the circut puts out since its always 120v (on a single breaker) 60hz.
I didn't say breaker (once again) and power it the volts times the amps. So saying power has nothing to do with amps is wrong. You need to stop assuming I am talking about the breaker all the time. I didn't want to write a essay on this, but here we go.

Here is one of many reasons why we should not plug in something meant for a 15/20 amp circuit, into a 30 amp circuit. A 30 amp circuit will have a larger wire size than a 15/20 amp service. It is protected by a breaker that is meant to trip if the load exceeds the limit of the circuit/wire (30 amps). Now you plug in something that is designed to be on a 15/20 amp circuit. This piece of equipment will most likely have smaller wire designed for a 20 amp circuit. This piece of equipment fails and begins to draw more current than it was designed for (say 29 amps), but not enough to trip the 30 amp breaker. The breaker, meant to protect your home in this instance, fails to trip because it does not know there is a problem (it only senses 29 amps). The equipment, designed to draw a max of 20 amps is now drawing 29 amps. The wire inside the equipment gets hot enough to start a fire. Does that sound safe to you??? You can install a 20 amp fuse on all your equipment, but I don't see the poster doing that.

If less [power] is needed it would have to be stepped down by a transformer not a smaller breaker thus the wall wart style plug.
Transformers step down voltage. Voltage does not equal power. You can draw the same amount of power at 12v/120v/12000v.

Who has a better understanding of electricity? Who is giving bad advise?
 
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your quote not mine QUOTE "Also, if you ever short a circuit, would you prefer 15 amps running thru your body of 30?"

I would say you would never find out you would be dead way before either one

also can you post a pic of a label or a manual page showing the appliance is recomended circut size I have seen most say a minimum size (Im not looking at low voltage leds or computer parts)
 
If you know what you are talking about, you are not doing a good job of conveying it. -OR- Your not quite sure what you are talking about. In either case, you statements may give people the wrong idea.


Would you rather get shocked by 15 or 30 amp. Yes both CAN kill you if the juice runs through your heart, but I was not refering to a lethal condition. I would still rather get shocked on a 15 amp circuit than a 30 amp.
That is like asking would you rather get hit by a freight train or bus. Both will kill you just as dead, neither will break a sweat. You should not talk about branch circuit breakers in terms of personal protection from electrocution, as that is not what they offer. It does not matter how large the breaker is, the shock will be the same. I am not sure you understand that.

Not every 110 volt shock will kill you. I have been zapped enough times to prove that, and a 30 amp will hurt more than a 15 amp, assuming the shock condition is equal.
You HAVE NO IDEA what you are talking about. Thus proving my original point (AND PROVING THAT ADAMS COMMENTS WERE WAY OFF BASE). Also nobody ever said that ALL 110V shocks will kill you. Maybe lookup the words "electric shock" and "electrocution" for starters.

This was a side note in my statement. I am sorry I didn't write a 2 page report on it, but the statement is 100% valid.
No it is 100% wrong. The size of the breaker has nothing to do with the size of the shock you will get. Both a 15A and 30A breaker provide more than enough current to kill you, both without tripping. There is no difference between running a motor on a 20A breaker and running it on a 200A breaker. The current through the motor is exactly the same. Grabbing ahold of a 200A mains bus bar and sticking your finger in a 15A lighting socket will shock you exactly the same. The only difference is that at some point during your death by electrocution, the 15A breaker may POP, the 200A will not. Either way your dead.

The second one was about putting equipment not designed to be on a 30 amp circuit. Look at the manual of most sensitive electronics, it should state the max circuit size to put the equipment on. This protects the equipment and the user. Yes it is in a fault condition. I guess I should have added 2 more pages to my responce, but my comment is 100% valid.
Your using your flawed understanding of electricity to make these statements. You are wrong again. A 30A breaker will not hurt a piece of equipment that has a label that says "15A". If you were talking about FAULT conditions, then you would have and could have said so. Lets not play games here please... but lets read on.

Your suggsting that it is fine to put a device designed for a 15 amp service on a 30/60/100 amp circuit? You are WRONG!
Again, I don't think you understand what you are talking about. There is no way that putting a 6A load on a 15A breaker is going to hurt the load. The ideal way to size a breaker is to choose such a size that will only carry the desired load plus a slight amount of headroom. However isnstead of having 50 different breaker sizes in our panels, we use 15A, 20A, 30A, etc. We don't bother messing around with 1A 2A 3A 4A etc breakers... even though many branch circuits are only loaded to that ampacity. I never suggested ignoring a label or doing anything against code I only suggested that you appeared not to grasp what you are saying... and I stand by that.

You could assume from your statement that installing a 100 amp circuit and running your tank off of it would be OK. Do I need to do a 4 page post on why that is a bad idea? Your advice is POOR, and I would expect better of you and you got called out on it.
No it would not be okay. It would not damage the equipment. However it would also not offer protection in the event that a piece of equipment failed. The circuit breakers protect that wire on the branch circuit and the internal wiring of the equipment conected to it. If the internal wiring of the equipment is smaller than #14 then it must also contain suitable overcurrent protection to protect it's own chasis wiring. OF COURSE a piece of equipment designed for a 15A circuit will not have wiring suitable to be protected by a 30A breaker.... BUT THAT IS NOT WHA YOU SAID. IF you INFERED IT, then you did a really poor job at best. In any case that is [inside equipment] where you will find you smaller fuses or resetable circuit breakers. The NEC goes as far as stating that they can not be user replaceable by higher rated devices.

I (and plenty of others here, including ADAM and other electricians) would be more than happy to help you learn and understand electricity and overcurrent protection. At this point you simply don't have a firm grasp of what you are talking about. I am being as polite as possible, but your most recent posts have afirmed my original statements and then some.

You might not agree with some of my comments in my post, because you didn't understand them, but my advise on what to do is SOLID and I stand by it 100%. I did not suggest anything that was dangerouse, while you did.
Ahh but that is the problem I do understand what you were trying to say and it is wrong. You keep saying you were not talking about CIRCUIT BREAKERS. Do you want me to go back and quote what you said? Honestly this is getting childish.
 
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whoa guys.. easy.. :)

What about me? ;)

So it sounds like 2x20amp circs wont do. I do have space to add on 1 or 2 more circuits, the electrician would need to run wires from there to the garage? That would be tricky as the current one is near the car garage, but my storage garage where the wet room is a long ways and would require a long run of wires.
 
Bean, are you saying the course of action I suggested in my post was incorrect? If there a fault in it? Or do you just want to argue (removed) .

[violation]
 
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here is list of equipment:
Return Pump 110w
Return Frag pump 170w
CL pump 150w
Heaters 500w
MH lights 1400w
T5 Main tank 128w
T5 frag tank 110w
Skimmer 65w
Ca. Reactor 30w
Aquacontroller III 10W
Ca. Reactor controller 50W
Ca Reactor Pump 50W
Top off Pump 45W
Ozotech ozonizer 100W
Luft air pump 5
Fragtank Poweheads 20
Tunze pumps 260
OM 4way 20W
HP 7310 all in one printer 30W
Celining fan/light in 250W
skimmer 65w
return pump 110w
heaters 250w
TV 200W
PC 200W
Garage door 700W
[/B]

I filled in the blanks with best guesses and come up with a total of around 5000 Watts. At 110V that is around 46 AMPS. I sure hope you are prepared for the electric bill :)

If it were me, I would pull a single wire and add a 50A subpanel to the fish room. Leaving the two 15A circuits in place to pick up the slack for the TV, PC, Garage Door, Cieling Fan etc. The sub panel would be dedicated to the tank.

I highly doubt that you can upgrade the 15A breakers to 20A breakers. If the wire was #12, then the electrician would have likely used 20A units in the first place. Also if you can not 100% ensure that the whole branch circuit is run with #12, then you can't safely assume it is and upgrade the breaker.

In any case, your looking at at least (2) 15A and (1) 20A branch circuits or (4) 15A branch circuits to carry the load. This means at least pulling (1) new run but in reality (2) new runs. If you are going to have to do this, just pull a run for a sub panel as I mentioned above.

Bean
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8250654#post8250654 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Qwiv
Bean, are you saying the course of action I suggested in my post was incorrect? If there a fault in it? Or do you just want to argue
No I am saying you are giving advice and don't really know what you are talking about. My intention was to simply point out that your statements were not correct and should not be taken at face value.

"Don't swim in the spillway of the dam, the gravitational field of the water rushing past the cement will attract your feet and cause you to drown"

It sounds good... but makes no sense, even though the resulting advice "don't swim in the dam spillway" is good. The reader is left with good advice based on bad "science" and therefore learned nothing.

You started off fairly well but got well off base when you said Putting them on a 30 amp circuit could fry them. Also, if you ever short a circuit, would you prefer 15 amps running thru your body of 30?

If you go back and read, that is what I commented on... not the rest of your post. Pleaes go back and read!!!

You went on to defend this statement with more statements that made it VERY APPEARANT that you don't quite understand the current and voltage relationship and how a circuit breaker fits into that picture. I have commented on those statements as well. Again, I have said nothing about the rest of your post (other than to mention that the basic jist of it was fine). You simply made it blatantly obvious that your statement was not "mis worded" (even after ADAM defended it by giving you the benefit of the doubt) but rather you didn't grasp the concepts in play here.

You boldy re-prove your lack of understanding when you reply I have been zapped enough times to prove that, and a 30 amp will hurt more than a 15 amp, assuming the shock condition is equal. This was a side note in my statement. I am sorry I didn't write a 2 page report on it, but the statement is 100% valid. There are so many things wrong with the statement that it would take me a 2 page report just to sort them out. Something I would be glad to do if you are actually willing to learn.

At this point to say any more is wasting everybodies time. I have offered to help you understand the missing puzzle piece. This was not a smartass comment. I would be more than happy to help you learn what you are missing. I certainly learn something every day!

This is not a "contest to see whos D is bigger" QWIV. It is simply a public forum and the idea is to ensure that those who read threads like are able to walk away with SOUND advice based on SOUND principles. Anything less could be dangerous.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8250654#post8250654 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Qwiv
Bean, are you saying the course of action I suggested in my post was incorrect? If there a fault in it? Or do you just want to argue .

QWIV-

Try not to be distracted by the animal's abrasive style and dramatics. His/her style reminds me of the old Saturday Night Live skits with Dan Akroyd and Jane Curtin when they would do the "Point, Counterpoint" debate show, and Dan Akroyd's reply always began with, "Jane, you ignorant sl*t!" :D

What you've said has been practical and made good sense, and has been conveyed in a manner that is free of distractions from the topic at hand. Such an approach is appreciated.
 
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Nice troll Warren.

QWIV mistated fact and I pointed out the incorrect part of the statement.

Just because you do not like me or my "abrasive style and dramatics" does not mean that what I have said is wrong. Your posting to this thread has added nothing but confrontation.

Some of what he said made good sense Warren, some of what he said was FLAT OUT WRONG. If your too shallow to see that (or don't understand why he was wrong) then instead of trolling for a fight, you might want to pay attention to my "abrasive and dramatic" comments, you may learn something....

Bean
 
Good job Bean. You said my advise was poor, and you gave the SAME ADVICE except I gave the option to pull some additional circuits. His panel could be off the garage, which adding (2) 15/20 amp circuits (pending space in the box) would be a good solution.

You should still not connect a device to a circuit that is oversized, unless you build in its own current protection. There is a thread on here (or reefs. org) about a DIY where a person installed 1a or 5a (can't remember) 120v fan in there canopy without a appropriatly sized fuse. It shorted out somehow. End result, the guy lost a corner of his house to a fire because the wiring designed for 1a or 5a burned up and caught soemthing else on fire. You stated he needs 50 amps. If I am wrong on this, why not re-pull the garage circuit to (2) 30 amp then??
 
QWIV

Get a grip young man. I did not say all of your advice was poor. I actually said most of it was just fine. How about READING instead of ranting. My comments were soley regarding what I quoted of your original post and your subsuquenet posts. Yes QWIV are remedy for the situation is the same. The problem is that one of us understands WHY that remedy works, and other other only thinks he understands. Again the point was that you have made several statements that fully illustrate a lack of understanding of current and voltage and how the relate to the operationf of equipment and overcurrent protection. The POINT WAS NOT that your recomendation to run a sub panel or new 20A circuits was bad.

Yes QWIV you are correct in stating that YOU SHOULD NOT connect a device to a circuit that has improper overcurrent protection. I never said that you should. I ONLY STATED that your conention that it will damage the equipment and/or shock you worse is silly. Do we really have to go through all of this again?

I did not say it was safe, legal or advised to use a 30A branch circuit to connect household utilization equipment. Please stop infering that I have.

If the "1A or 5A" fan had wire smaller than acceptable by the NEC (on a 15A circuit) and that wire was not protected by suitable overcurrent protection for its guage (amapacity) then yes it is an accident waiting to happen. Nobody said it wasnt.

I surely hope you are not infering that the 15A circuit caused a 1A fan to self destruct for no reason? The fire happened because the fan FAILED and the internal wiring caught on fire before the mains circuit breaker kicked.

Why not pull (2) 30A circuits?

For starters... lets give a brief overview of the NECs answer:
The NEC only allows for lighting and utilization circuits in dwelling units of 15 or 20 amperes. You can read this in 210-23(a) See sub section (b) of the same section for 30 ampere bracn circuits. You can refer to 240-4(a) to see what the NEC says about the supply cords for devices connected to such branch circuits.240-10 outlines the overcurrent protection requirements for internal components etc (chasis wiring).

Nobody said it was OK to pull a 30A branch for this application. The issue (as I beat my head against the wall) was with your statements regarding WHY. Your conclusion [that you should not do it] was fine. IT WAS YOUR REASONING AND SUBSUQUENT JUSTIFICATION that is being scrutinized. Good grief! Please, for the sake of my now caved in forehead... reread the entire thread and strive to comprehend the contect of each post.
 
wire run

wire run

reefer90210 does you house have conduit? If so the pull may not be that bad ( baring the size of the pipe and how many wires are in it already, code may not allow any more), otherwise the electrician will have many ways to pull the line with minimal damage to your walls/ceiling even if they are using romex
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8251716#post8251716 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Nice troll Warren.

Just because you do not like me or my "abrasive style and dramatics" does not mean that what I have said is wrong. Your posting to this thread has added nothing but confrontation.

Found within just your previous post...
"Get a grip young man.
Do we really have to go through all of this again?
The issue (as I beat my head against the wall)...
Good grief! Please, for the sake of my now caved in forehead... reread the entire thread and strive to comprehend the contect of each post.
How about READING instead of ranting."


Regardless of whether your advice is right or wrong, it would be nice if you would try to remain calm and respectful of the other contributors here, even when you disagree with some of their suggestions.

Please do what you can to retain the friendly nature found among most of the posters here.

My previous message was not for you. It was for QWIV and for others who may be discouraged from contributing by your abrasive nature.
 
Warren,

Let me be very frank. Your presence here is nothing but confrontational. You claim that the post "was not for me" yet this is a public forum and you mentioned my name directly and in a derogatory manner. You expect me not to say something? Typical.

I am here trying to sort out an electrical debate. You are here to take swipes at people whos mannerisms you don't like. In the process you have championed the losing side of a debate (causing the issue to be dragged out even further) but have added NO RELEVANT INFORMATION!!

Next time, instead of taking matters into your own hands and nobely jumping into the fray, why don't you simply use the "report this post" link at the bottom of the page. To do anything else is simply fanning the flames.

With regards to my abrasive nature. Warren If you don't like me or my nature, then silently avoid me or report my posts. Again making a public spectacle and calling me out on the carpet is only going to draw this same kind of response. 99% of my posts here at RC are to help people. Most of that help is in the DIY and EQUIPMENT forums. Sure I can be abrasive, but usually only after running into people such as yourself. I wonder why that is?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8255315#post8255315 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Warren,

Next time, instead of taking matters into your own hands and nobely jumping into the fray, why don't you simply use the "report this post" link at the bottom of the page.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8251270#post8251270 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
I filled in the blanks with best guesses and come up with a total of around 5000 Watts. At 110V that is around 46 AMPS. I sure hope you are prepared for the electric bill :)

If it were me, I would pull a single wire and add a 50A subpanel to the fish room. Leaving the two 15A circuits in place to pick up the slack for the TV, PC, Garage Door, Cieling Fan etc. The sub panel would be dedicated to the tank.

I highly doubt that you can upgrade the 15A breakers to 20A breakers. If the wire was #12, then the electrician would have likely used 20A units in the first place. Also if you can not 100% ensure that the whole branch circuit is run with #12, then you can't safely assume it is and upgrade the breaker.

In any case, your looking at at least (2) 15A and (1) 20A branch circuits or (4) 15A branch circuits to carry the load. This means at least pulling (1) new run but in reality (2) new runs. If you are going to have to do this, just pull a run for a sub panel as I mentioned above.

Bean

Bean, you are assuming ALL 5000 watts are on at the same time and for 24hrs a day to get a huge elec bill.. that is not case. 1000 of the watts for lighting will probably only be on for 4-6 hrs per day (I am running a BB tank and many have reported the need for shorter MH photoperiods).additionally, the TV in that room when I get one will hardly EVER be on. Computer is obviously plugged in all the time, but not necessiraly in use all the time. Garage door is only opened and closed once or twice per day and that is at what, 10sec intervals?

Anyways, point is, my electric bill will go up for sure, but I dont think its going to be rediculously high. but we will see.

As for adding a single 50, is that assuming I have enough room in my total load..so if my house is 200, and I am already using all 200, I cannot just add another 50 right? It would have to replace something? Of course if I am not using all of it , it shouldnt be an issue.
 
btw , for the MH lights, 1400 seems high, I have 3x250 now and max i would upgrade would be 3x400..but I think I should be ok with 3x250.

Anyways, I added up everything and it came out to 4400.. to get amps dont you divide by 110? Or is it 120?

I divided by 110 to get just under 40 amps and that is assuming ALL devices are on at the same time, which I doubt it will ever happen but I know I'd be safer in planning for something like that.

Guess I need to call the electrician again.
 
Re: wire run

Re: wire run

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8253818#post8253818 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bryanth73
reefer90210 does you house have conduit? If so the pull may not be that bad ( baring the size of the pipe and how many wires are in it already, code may not allow any more), otherwise the electrician will have many ways to pull the line with minimal damage to your walls/ceiling even if they are using romex

Pretty sure I do, it is a brand new house (well, built in 2001).
 
btw guys. I enjoy your debating, but lets not get it out of hand , I am learning some here so I'd like not to have the thread closed.
 
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