need help with automated water change

I would assume to make the RO/DI unit run longer to extend the RO membrane life. They work better/longer when making large amounts of water. And work best/longest when flushed with each use.
 
Ok, here's what I'm trying to do.
I have two 5 gallon buckets one used to store RO/DI water and the other to mix saltwater for waterchanges. I have my float switches in the saltwater bucket and they control a pump in the freshwater one.

What I would like is for these same switches to cut off power to 2 LMIII pumps used for an automated waterchange while still being able to fill the saltwater bucket.

So, the process would be as follows...
1- saltwater is mixed and ready for waterchange
2- LMIII pumps start waterchange by pressing a button
3- When saltwater is low
a.bottom switch triggers and cuts power to LMIII pumps
b.also turns on freshwater pump
4- a.Top switch turns off pump for freshwater refill
b.also turns on LMIII pumps(but power doesn't reach them until I press a reset switch)
5- The process starts all over again

Sorry for not clarifying.
 
How is your water change going to be controlled?

From thinking about this briefly, the way I'm seeing it, you would basically need as many as 6 float switches, 2 relays, and possibly 3 pumps.

I'll look at drawing up something here in a little bit to show what I'm thinking and if it fits, then you can let me know.
 
The water change is controlled by the Litermeter unit.
It also gives power to the LMIII pumps.
All I need is for the switches to temporarily cut that power.
 
So, if that is all that is needed, what I described to you in PM will work. I'll draw something up here in a little bit.

I'll have to get it done before the game starts...otherwise I might get distracted.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11492032#post11492032 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by activecactus
So just add a second 12v relay? Could it be powered from the first?

Just latch it like you did the first relay, yes they can share the same psu. This is a very simple project with the lm3 should work well.

Don
 
Since you already have a $300 pump that will do automated water changes, why not just program it how much to change per day? Seems like having a large container of NSW hidden in a closet would be less work than adding salt to a 5g bucket every day and pressing a button.
 
Anyone know how hard it is to put a graphic together while watching the Rose Bowl? Especially when your team isn't performing as hoped for!!! ah!!!!!

Maybe they do better if I don't watch. So far a touch down and almost another.

Here is the drawing...
diagram.gif


I hope this helps some.
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11500305#post11500305 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Siffy
Since you already have a $300 pump that will do automated water changes, why not just program it how much to change per day? Seems like having a large container of NSW hidden in a closet would be less work than adding salt to a 5g bucket every day and pressing a button.

I have a 29 gallon tank with a 10 gallon sump which I have set the LMIII to perform weekly 4.5 gallon waterchanges.

Space is a big concern and the largest container that I can fit in a closet is a 5 gallon bucket. This setup will allow me to be out of town and not worry that the saltwater reservoir will empty and having the other pump drain the sump.

Thanks Rick and Don for helping out. I need to go to Radio Shack tomorrow and pick up an adapter for the LMIII pump. I'll attempt connecting it then.
 
Ah, so this is a backup to the LM3's programming in case of a failure. What about a low limit float sensor/switch in the sump that would turn off the LM3. I thought the LMs could be run dry without worry. Something is telling me this is over complicated. It's just a hunch.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11501892#post11501892 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Siffy
Ah, so this is a backup to the LM3's programming in case of a failure. What about a low limit float sensor/switch in the sump that would turn off the LM3. I thought the LMs could be run dry without worry. Something is telling me this is over complicated. It's just a hunch.

What about a low limit float sensor/switch in the sump that would turn off the LM3.

Why do that when I can have it on just one latching switch?
 
Here is want I came up with today.

Here is want I came up with today.

Now all of this may look a bit confusing, but I don't think it is when you break it down.

Okay, here is a diagram of what I think you are talking about:
samsetup-diagram.jpg

Now in this setup you have the follow:
Tank 1 used to hold RO/DI water and to mix fresh saltwater.
Tank 2 would contain Mixed saltwater ready to be used during your water change.
Tank 3 would be your sump.

Essentially what you have described as wanting is an automatic water change system that begins when you activate it. Then there is a system for filling the mixed saltwater tank when it gets low and while this tank is filling you do not perform a water change.

So the following would be the procedure and what happens:
When you want to perform a water change you press the push button switch (not shown in diagram) once. In doing so it sends power to Pump 3 which then begins pumping water out of the sump and into a waste drain. When the water level in the sump reaches FS1, Pump 3 turns off and Pump 2 turns on and pums fresh salt water from Tank 2 to Tank 3 the sump. This continues until the water level in the sump reaches the level of FS2. When this happens Pump 2 gets turned off. Now the water change is completed and you can push the push button swithch (not shown in the diagram) once to turn the power off to the water change part of the system.

If the water level in Tank 2 drops below the level of FS3 then this activates Pump 1 which begins pumping newly mixed saltwater into Tank 2 unless the water level in Tank 1 is at or below the level of FS5, if this is the case then Pump 1 won't turn on. Now if the water level in Tank 2 is at or below the level of FS3 then Pump 2 won't turn on until the water level in Tank 2 is above FS3.

Now if you thought that was complicated, here is the wiring diagram:
samsetup-wiring.jpg

It looks worse than what it really is. I believe this will work. I initially had some logic errors, but I think I have fixed them all.

Let me know if you have any questions.
 
Sounds interesting!

A few suggestions would be: Push a button once to run the draining and refilling of the sump. All automatically.

Then require a button push to transfer from the new water to the holding tank. If you don't have this stage you could transfer unmixed (unusable), batch into your #2 tank.

I'm also not clear on the purpose of the middle tank if you are mixing in the salt on the first tank anyway? Isn't that redundant? I could see if the first tank was pure water - as a catch basin from a slow RO system or something. Then the second tank would be the mixing and gas equilibrium tank.
 
It has been said to not use newly mixed saltwater, but rather water that has sat for a day or so. The first tank would also be a tank that would fill slowly with RO/DI and when full would be mixed to make saltwater. One could raise the float in that tank so that it would not allow the pump to pump water out of that tank until the water was mixed...or you could just add a switch there as well. hadn't thought about it that much. This is just something to build on. I have a similar setup on my system. The water change is controlled by a timer and thus the system does 3 water changes a weel.
 
Here's a picture of the two buckets.
The first one holds RO/DI water which is used to top of the evaporated water in my sump. I don't want to add more float switches to my sump of fear that it will mess up my top off.

The second bucket contains saltwater or RO water waiting to be mixed, a mixing pump that is controlled independently, and It also has the 2 float switches used to bring in water from the RO bucket. Not seen is a tube that will carry saltwater to the sump via a LM pump.

The wiring diagram for the float switches worked like a charm.
Still not to shure if I can do what I want to do.
buckets.jpg
 
If you are using 2 switches in your sump for your auto-top off and it is working fine, adding 2 more for your auto-water change won't hurt anything.
 
I only have one chamber in my sump that fluctuates and the Tunze controls that with top off water. If I put switches for the LM along with the tunzes' then when the LM takes out water it will be filled with RO water. The LM only takes out and replaces a small amount of water at a time, 4.5 gallons/week.
 
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