need help with lighting

frh674

New member
I have a 45gal 36x12x24 tank. currently I have power compact lighting.
65watt 03 actinic
96watt 10,000k
96watt actinic

I want to have that shimmering effect I like it alot so this is why Im changing. The only problem I have is that the brace in the middle of the tank is in the way. I think it might melt? Im planing on going with a 250watt retrofit spider reflector kit with a 10,000k bulb. I was also wondering what kind of heat these things give off...?

you can see my tank at http://frh674.blogspot.com/

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thanks for you help!
 
Since the tank is long, why not go with 2 x 250MH? It will cover basically the whole tank. As for corals melting just cut back the hrs they are use to being exposed to lighting and over the time increase it slowly. With the heat issue, add some fans within the canopy to pull and push air in and out of the canopy to disperse heat. I would also stay away from removing the center brace, it was designed like that for a reason.
 
i'd spend the money on more rock and since you have no coral except the one zoa piece add the MH later. you can add some surface agitation w/ a powerhead and get a bit of shimmer.
 
ek9vboi: Im not worried about the corals.. just the tank trim peice in the middle... and 2x 250watts = have to buy chiller and I dont want to do that

jessp:
surface is agitated.. I only see shimmer at night when the led moonlights come on....

I really dont want anymore rock either Im just going to buy corals when I upgrade the lights
 
I ran a single 250 wt MH on my old 65G tank.I too had a center brace,so I mounted the bulb just off-center.I run my bulbs very close to the water(not recommended),so I really didn't get that much of a shadow being cast by the center brace & over time I got used to what shadow there was.If you plan on running your MH bulb at more average height,then realize you will have more shadow cast by the brace.I wouldn't remove the brace,but if you do,then I've seen a couple of tanks that did a good retro.The brace is cut leaving an inch or so left at each end.The brace is then replaced with clear acrylic & secured using nylon nuts/bolts.The result is you have a brace that will cast virtually no shadow.
 
45commando: that sounds like a good idea about the retro, do you know if I have to drain my tank in order to do that?
 
I actually bought darcy's (45commando)'s tank (the 65, the one that I'm currently breaking down). I'm running 2 x 250w mh 20000k on it right now, and have very little issue with heat, and it's 36" just like yours.
If I can make a suggestion, don't run 2 x 250, run 2 x 175... less heat, still plenty of light, lower electric bill (you could always run it for 6 or 7 hours instead of 5). If you make your hood taller, you can elevate the mh's 10-12" off the water and run a computer fan (radio shack sells a 120v fan that I use, it's a 3" with really aggressive fan blades, kindof like a jet engine. Look for the one that has like 10 blades instead of 3 or 4. That one really kicked butt! Remember, the mh's are much more intense than pc's, so you only need to run them 5 hours. Any more is a waste of electricity. Been doing it that way for 3 years on that tank, and anyone who's gone to the FMAS auctions can tell you that I bring tons of frags every time.
I started with a 29 gallon with pc's, and that actually was a great tank. I upgraded to 250w 14000k pfo mh, and that supercharged the growth, although I really didn't need it. Personally, I'd put the money into buying a new tank that's built a little better but without the centerbrace. I agree that if it's there, don't mess with it.
Can I assume that since you're thinking about replacing the center brace with acrylic, that the tank itself is also acrylic? In that case, the acrylic should be clear and not cause much problem as far as light penetration, just wipe under the centerbrace once a week or so to clean it off of salt spray. An extra 30 seconds work with a water change really won't make a difference.
 
nope it's glass, has a black plastic center brace.. I think I am going to have to find dual 150 HQI's since they come with protective glass, that way I wont have an exposed bulb so near to the water
 
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